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TroubleGuy
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saintgr8one
Member
the first picture is the way the flange goes for the filter
saintgr8one
Member
also, you want your intake as low as possible w/ your exhaust where your intake is currently at. just my 2 cents
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TroubleGuy
The window slides open from left to right, so the half on the right is open. Wouldn't I want to exhaust where most of it'll get outside right away to avoid condensation buildup? I was thinking the far right side, possibly where the black circle on the plastic is on the upper right.
Wouldn't it make it look suspicious from outside if the window is open but a bunch of condensation is on it anyway?
Wouldn't it make it look suspicious from outside if the window is open but a bunch of condensation is on it anyway?
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Amstel Light
yea heat rises, exhaust from top- intake below,more intake less exhaust. fan's in between.. what kinda hood you got,is it sealed? i am assuming that it's central air not a window unit right?
smallest vortex is around 170 cfm's, have you done the time/cubic calculations for scrubbing room? no more lumber man heehee!!
you said you found the studs.... use U-bolts on fan mounting to fasten bungee, use bungee that has metal hooks, then screw a eye bolt to stud, hook bungee then use pliers to squeeze metal hooks secure? i have never bungeed a fan..
your joking about the flange right?!!?heheee also what's up with your socket ? agre you using GFCI? have you done calculations in regards to electrical capacity?
smallest vortex is around 170 cfm's, have you done the time/cubic calculations for scrubbing room? no more lumber man heehee!!
you said you found the studs.... use U-bolts on fan mounting to fasten bungee, use bungee that has metal hooks, then screw a eye bolt to stud, hook bungee then use pliers to squeeze metal hooks secure? i have never bungeed a fan..
your joking about the flange right?!!?heheee also what's up with your socket ? agre you using GFCI? have you done calculations in regards to electrical capacity?
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Amstel Light
i dont see a need for the window at all! its a sealed (sorta) garden inside a room..hook that duct to your a/c duct and blow into your garden... exhaust to room... clean air in room...let warm/clean air circulate through apt....
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Amstel Light
Man the last time I sealed a window that good there was venetian blinds and a curtain....if i looked up at your window would i see white polly????
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TroubleGuy
The hood is a SuperSun 2, glass is on but the ends are open for ducting which I won't be using. The fan is a 6" Vortex, don't remember the CFM but it's more than capable of clearing the air in the room in 2-3 minutes.
I'm open to mounting the fan with it's mount if and only if I can find a way to eliminate ALL vibrations. Vibrations are a big giveaway in apartments. I don't have any AC, central or otherwise. I will get one when summer comes around specifically for the growroom if needed.
The socket is actually fine though it looks pretty ghetto. A 40 amp double breaker was put in the circuit box, proper wiring was run behind the wall, to a timer box, which the outlet is wired to. I'll post a pic in a minute so you can see what's up with it. Not sure what GFCI is.
If you looked up at the window (and believe me I've done it many times) you'd see white blinds which are obviously shut.
I put the black side of the poly to the blinds because it just looks like the light is off in the room. It's not on the bottom floor so nobody will really get a super close look.
I'm open to mounting the fan with it's mount if and only if I can find a way to eliminate ALL vibrations. Vibrations are a big giveaway in apartments. I don't have any AC, central or otherwise. I will get one when summer comes around specifically for the growroom if needed.
The socket is actually fine though it looks pretty ghetto. A 40 amp double breaker was put in the circuit box, proper wiring was run behind the wall, to a timer box, which the outlet is wired to. I'll post a pic in a minute so you can see what's up with it. Not sure what GFCI is.
If you looked up at the window (and believe me I've done it many times) you'd see white blinds which are obviously shut.
I put the black side of the poly to the blinds because it just looks like the light is off in the room. It's not on the bottom floor so nobody will really get a super close look.
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TroubleGuy
Here's that picture.
The wire from the breaker to the timer box is behind the wall. There's a rectangular cut behind the timer box just big enough to stick the outlet box that the ballast is plugged into in.
The reason I chose to do it this way is so it'd be a breeze to take out and conceal. All I'd have to do is flip the breaker, disconnect the timer box, and put the outlet box in the wall with a bare faceplate.
Oh yeah, it's crooked because I had to hang it on a screw in the stud so it wasn't held up by the wire... Didn't like the thought of a wire getting weak and failing to work.
The wire from the breaker to the timer box is behind the wall. There's a rectangular cut behind the timer box just big enough to stick the outlet box that the ballast is plugged into in.
The reason I chose to do it this way is so it'd be a breeze to take out and conceal. All I'd have to do is flip the breaker, disconnect the timer box, and put the outlet box in the wall with a bare faceplate.
Oh yeah, it's crooked because I had to hang it on a screw in the stud so it wasn't held up by the wire... Didn't like the thought of a wire getting weak and failing to work.
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Amstel Light
The hood is a SuperSun 2, glass is on but the ends are open for ducting which I won't be using. The fan is a 6" Vortex, don't remember the CFM but it's more than capable of clearing the air in the room in 2-3 minutes.
I'm open to mounting the fan with it's mount if and only if I can find a way to eliminate ALL vibrations. Vibrations are a big giveaway in apartments. I don't have any AC, central or otherwise. I will get one when summer comes around specifically for the growroom if needed.
The socket is actually fine though it looks pretty ghetto. A 40 amp double breaker was put in the circuit box, proper wiring was run behind the wall, to a timer box, which the outlet is wired to. I'll post a pic in a minute so you can see what's up with it. Not sure what GFCI is.
If you looked up at the window (and believe me I've done it many times) you'd see white blinds which are obviously shut.
use the vented hood!! it will dissipate the heat the most! GFCI ground fault circuit interupter..look it up..
yea i figured your were not on first floor..wow no a/c what is outside temp?
do you have a fan to pull air in?
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TroubleGuy
The outside temps are about 65 during the day if it's not sunny out, 40s (?) at night. Haven't really checked the temp outside at night for a couple weeks.
Only fan I have right now is the Vortex, 2 wall mounted 16" oscillating fans and a 3 foot tall "ionizer" type fan.
Improvements will surely be made but for now I can't afford anymore Vortex fans to use the ducts on the hood. Just dropped some money on another light and need to wait for harvest time to reinvest.
Only fan I have right now is the Vortex, 2 wall mounted 16" oscillating fans and a 3 foot tall "ionizer" type fan.
Improvements will surely be made but for now I can't afford anymore Vortex fans to use the ducts on the hood. Just dropped some money on another light and need to wait for harvest time to reinvest.
Maybe I'm missing something,but couldn't you just hook the vortex up near what you're currently calling the intake? Use that intake up near the top as your exhaust, hook your vortex up to it. Then hook the vents in the light up to the vortex and let it exhaust ALL your room air through the lights? Room'll be cooler and it'll still function to cycle the air. I also second what Amstel said... just exhaust the filtered air into your A/C vent and use passive intakes near the bottom of the room to pull room-temp air from outside the growspace (but inside the house).
Then you could just put some miniblinds on that window and open it when your in-room temps are higher than you want.
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Amstel Light
I can't afford anymore Vortex fans to use the ducts on the hood.
IT DOES NOT need to be a 200$ fan... a 50cfm for bathroom ventilation(12$ home depot) would work... but to control temps in that space you must utilize your vented hood....
what wattage u running?
cubic ft. of garden?
cu.ft. of room?
I would not abuse my new fan and filter by having it perform (trying to) all the ventilation task for your garden.....
you have to do the math yourself...do you know the formula?
MobbDeep
Member
what i woudl do is EXTRACT the hot air out..and make a few holes on the bottom near the plant canpoy...as long as the fan is strong enough,it will create a negative pressure in the tent..which will suck the fresh air from the holes you made....what cfm is the fan?im buying a 6in valueline soon..
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TroubleGuy
It'll definitely create enough negative pressure for that. It's a 6" Vortex, I don't know the exact CFM but it's more than enough for my grow space. I did the math when I bought everything. It's about a 6x6 room, but only 4-5 feet are going to be used to grow, the extra foot or so is so I can get in and tend to the plants without any problems.
I'll probably get to work on this tomorrow and see how it works out. My biggest concern is preparing for the warm weather that's coming. Temps are fine so far, a few degrees cooler wouldn't hurt, but when summer comes I'll be buying an AC unit to keep things in check.
Pictures will come when I've made some progress, thanks for the input and anymore input is still appreciated
I'll probably get to work on this tomorrow and see how it works out. My biggest concern is preparing for the warm weather that's coming. Temps are fine so far, a few degrees cooler wouldn't hurt, but when summer comes I'll be buying an AC unit to keep things in check.
Pictures will come when I've made some progress, thanks for the input and anymore input is still appreciated
El Vexilix
Member
WOW , I thought i was looking at my old groom window before it was changed to 12mil black film . Word of advice for that window , if your summer gets too hot , the blinds and yes even venetian blinds will warp , melt , or fade . 110 °F normal for summers here to even unstick duct tape off a wall holding the film .
The only difference is that I had mounted the 6" vortex right up to the window by hanging it and attaching with the styrofoam pieces the fan came with to exhaust the room .
Also , try going to home depot and buy that cheap plexiglass and make them cut it to you window height and about 7 inches wide . They maybe able to cut a 6 inch hole for it to . Like a doggie door for the weed exhaust .
The only difference is that I had mounted the 6" vortex right up to the window by hanging it and attaching with the styrofoam pieces the fan came with to exhaust the room .
Also , try going to home depot and buy that cheap plexiglass and make them cut it to you window height and about 7 inches wide . They maybe able to cut a 6 inch hole for it to . Like a doggie door for the weed exhaust .
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TroubleGuy
Oh summers don't get that hot here, no worries. 90-95 is about the hottest it gets, and that's only for a week or two.
The duct tape is holding the plastic, but I've also put staples through both layers every few inches because I expected it to come unstuck. So far no problems!
The duct tape is holding the plastic, but I've also put staples through both layers every few inches because I expected it to come unstuck. So far no problems!
