A few questions regarding perpetual micro SOG

[VladTheInhaler]

I have been experimenting with this method for a while now, with thai hazex skunk no1, and so far managed to get only one decent harvest, the rest being ruined by all kinds of problems ranging from cold to heat and mold because i had problems regulating the temps inside. Now that I got the temp problem out of the way my plants get to about 8th week and then the leaves start gong yellow and dry up. I switched from plastic cups to 0,5 vinyl bags (polypots) for growing but I don't think That's the reason for the plants getting sick. Perhaps my ferts have gone bad?
I also noticed that using Dr Buds watering method works well for sativas, but when i tried it with a AK 48, it started showing symptoms of overwatering. Does this mean that indicas need better drainage?

 

[guest 77721]

Nute uptake peaks about week 4 of flowering. After week 6 or so depending on the strain, the plant starts to slow it's uptake of nutes and end's its flowering cycle. You have to start cutting down nutes on at this point because the plant just doesn't use them and will build up.

Check out the nute levels on the advanced nutrients feeding schedule.

http://www.advancednutrients.com/nutcalc3public/nutrient_calculator.html

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

I also noticed that using Dr Buds watering method works well for sativas, but when i tried it with a AK 48, it started showing symptoms of overwatering. Does this mean that indicas need better drainage?

Maybe. I'd say they need fewer intervals with more time to dry between waterings.

 

[Squeeky]

I've had a similar problem, where the top cola buds get brown and brittle. I'm a newbie so it was nice to know I'm over nuting at the end. I've switched to FloraNova and only feeding every other waterings at half strength so I think I should be able to control that.

If doind a Prep grow like Dr.Bud the hard part is mixing so many different strengths of nute. Not the thread hijack, but can I use the left over nutes after I've fed them again. If I make a gallon and water 8 bottles, I will drain about 1/2 gallon. I've always dumbed this because I left the minerals it washed away from the soil would make less effective if not damaging if I were to water again.

 

[Hamburglar]

Not wanting to Hijack, but it saves me opening another thread with the same title.

My growcab is Tiny, 19"w, 15"h, 9"d. I am using 5x20w CFL lights.
Would it be possible to do a 12/12 perpetual SOG style grow using dixie cups? My cab really isn't big/wide enough to have pop-bottles in there.

I'd be happy to get about 1-2g a plant from this. Would it be possible?

 

[Debrickashaw]

should work alright, definitely wanna go with 0 veg time and a strain that doesnt stretch much tho. is it 15 inches under the lights? or 15 inches total.
with dixie cups your plant hieght should stay under control.

 

[Hamburglar]

It's 15" total. The lights take up about 3" and I want at least 2" distance from the lights. the dixie cups being 3 1/2" would leave me with +/- 6" of grow space. I can currently fit 10 little dixie cups in the cap with all of them under the lights evenly.

I still have a little bit to go until my current grow is finished, as it is once that is done that I'd be going ahead with this next one.

 

[Debrickashaw]

haha micro sog with an emphasis on the micro. how're you lining up the cups under the light? cuz with the perp grow it will be a lot easier to handle when you've got the cups grouped out in trays or some kind of holders

 

[Hamburglar]

One of the faces of the cab open, so I only have to tent to 5 rows 2 cups deep, rather than having to remove 8 cups to get the back 2.

It wouldn't be a "true" perpetual grow, as I'd just up and plant all 10 MK and pull the males, then replace the males with Papaya seedlings, again pulling the males.

I'm still not decided on whether or not to keep a male and seed some females for a run after my holiday. Might be a good idea.

 

[VladTheInhaler]

After I watered with plain water last time, the plants are not getting worse so the ferts seem to be the issue. I think I'll switch to 1L containers in the future, though, the 0,5 L are a bit too labour intensive.

 

[Anti]

After I watered with plain water last time, the plants are not getting worse so the ferts seem to be the issue. I think I'll switch to 1L containers in the future, though, the 0,5 L are a bit too labour intensive.

Might not be a super accurate way to judge at the moment, but a lot of people seem to heft their dry pots, get a feel for its weight, and water only when it's about that weight. Of course, as the plant grows, it'll gain some weight, so you'd have to adjust for that.

If you kept a running record of plant height and weight and watering requirements over a couple of grows, you could dial in the avg watering needs of your strain to a point where you could simply get a bathroom scale and set each plant on it, note your chart as to the dry weight of a plant at x" and water appropriately.

But then, I do tend to make most everything more difficult than it needs to be.

What's your perlite/soil mix?

Dr. Bud recommends 30/70 I believe.

 

[VladTheInhaler]

I use a probe to check if the soil is dry enough. The soil I use is store bought mix with sand instead of perlite. It's the best I could find so far as it is the only mix availible here that does have some Mg in it.

 

[Anti]

I use a probe to check if the soil is dry enough. The soil I use is store bought mix with sand instead of perlite. It's the best I could find so far as it is the only mix availible here that does have some Mg in it.

Most places like Home Depot, Lowes, etc. carry bags of perlite in the same section where the premix soil is. Adding perlite to your pots in a 30% perlite 70% soil ratio should help to keep your soil drainage optimal, so that the submersion method would be less likely to cause overwatering.

Without it, you might consider just slowly watering from the top, being careful to add only as much water as the soil can handle at a time... i.e. pour a little, let it soak in. Pour a little more. Let it soak in. Aim at watering the entire pot and not just the area right around the stalk. Theoretically, roots are less likely to grow into a dry area of your soil, which means less efficient soil use.

 

[guest 77721]

Establishing a good watering cycle is one of the most difficult things to learn in growing cannabis. Our girls really like a dry airy soil. I use 2 parts soil 1 part vermiculite and 1 part perlite and have been mixing my soil with and extra dash of perlite. 50/50 is fine too. Whatever you mix up the soil has to drain well and you have to let the plant dry out the soil in between waterings.

The other side of it is getting the watering cycle established. What you have to do is let the plant go very dry and when you do water, go one day less. As the plant dries out the pot it will look like it's begging with the leaves raising up. Stick your finger in the soil and see if it feels moist. Usually you can go one or two days more.

As the plant becomes rootbound, it will take more water as there is less soil and more roots. When your water cycle gets down to 1-2 days it's time to repot. Right after repotting your water cycle should be 6-7 days.