Faced with the facts, Face's Garden

[Rollin Face]

Hey my friends at IC and new friends as well, some of you may have seen a few threads ive had in the past, well this is gonna be a combo of them all and ill document everything here.

I wanted to start with a banger so I thought id show yall what im werking with, organic soil 2:1 Happy Frog / Light Warrior, 400-600W HPS (one for veg/flwr). Besides a new dark room tent, thats about it!

This first documented go round will be Pre 98', OG Kush, Burkle, Moe Mist, and Sour Bubble bx4, and I might squeeze a Nebu Ak in there if i gots room...well take a gander and dont be shy.

Havent flowered yet so the following pics are just them on there way..

SB bx4:

OG:

Burkle:

Pre 98:

 

[Rollin Face]

Ladies a little older, and basically where there at today:

Heres the OG, gonna do a mono crop of her next time!!

Burkle:

pre 98' (distinct short and fat):

Look how dense she is!:

 

[CMoon]

healthy hurd there rf.......bests wih the grow

 

[Rollin Face]

C moon- thanks for stopping by, hope you like what'll be goin on in here in approx 2-3 weeks....

im gonna flower here soon just waiting to take cuts off the Cherry Ak, OG, Burkle, and Bubba.. The others wont make it next run,(the Moe Mist and Sour Bubble) due to room and the fact that the SB veggs to damn slow and the Mist has a strange spotting on it that seems to be only affecting that one plant so im ruling out spider mites!!

So i suppose this is a mini update, I took pics of the big ol' Cherry Ak:

And the tent with ladies all packed in:

Oh yeah and you may be wondering about that Skunk I finished, its been in jars 2 weeks, and smells/tastes like lemons...really nice indeed:

Sun shots:

Under T5:

See you all soon!

 

[freedominphilly]

wow, nice work.

 

[Rollin Face]

im flowering tomorrow, took cuts of everything and took a few pics right before the final transplant:

Sour Bubble:

Foliage:

Big ass Ak:

 

[boroboro]

Those are some seriously beautiful plants, man; congratulations. That looks like a perfect example of well-fed, happy cannabis plants. Jealous!

 

[Rollin Face]

Boro- Thanks for the kind words! Much appreciated, i just hope i can keep them this happy during flower!! Then ill be set hehe.

Hey folk, yeah its been aboot 5 daze flowering and the ladies are loving the new 3 gals and the stretch! I pinned the Ak down and she bushed out like crazy. All the plants seems to be doing really well, but i am getting small spots on leaves which isnt pest related, a friend recommended a ppm meter, lol, so i think it has to do with that and it being obviously off. Im just trying to let them do their thing and give em what they need and stay out of the way!

Ak:

OG:

pre 98 Bubba:

Sour Bubble bx4:

also check out this freakish leaf, pretty cool, just shows how DENSE this pheno is..

 

[Rollin Face]

ok guys sorry bou the big pics, might help id the problem better.

Heres 3 pics of the spotting leaf i was telling you about, each pic shows its evolution, also might help understand whats going on, bc i need some advice before my ladies get anything below perfection, lol.

Lemmie know yee thoughts..

P.S. It is NOT a pest problem, also might help.

 

[Rollin Face]

so no one can help me out?

 

[moses224]

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1111111111GrowFAQ :Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver by Jackerspackle
Added by: administrator Last edited by: administrator Viewed: 104 times Rated by 16 users: 9.18/10
Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver
Version 1.1 - Feb. 1998 - distribution okay

To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.
1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.
2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not, go to #3.
3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.
4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.
5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. b) If not, go to #6.
6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.
7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). b) If not, go to #8…
8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to #9.
9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10...
10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.
11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12.
12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. b) If not, #13.
13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not… You may just have a weak plant.

The Nutrients:
Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.
Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.
Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.
Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.
Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up.
General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N:K ratio of about 10:7:8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14:16), and for flowering plants, 4:8:8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows:
seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison.
PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1). Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it.
Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some
varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could.
Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.
Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine.
Mold and Fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean.
Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath.
Sprays - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions.
Insufficient light - tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light
that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.
Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.

If this helped, send a few dollars to NORML.
Best of luck,
jackerspackle
Last modified: 14:23 - Nov 11, 2000

Quicklink: http://overgrow.com/growfaq/58
GrowFAQ © 2000-2004 Overgrow
faq:58 "Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver by Jackerspackle"




1

 

[Kinderfeld]

Oh wow...I was thinking calcium def.?

Do you add lime? Whats your waters natural ppm?

Nice plants though

 

[Rollin Face]

The natural water is tap unfortunantly but i tested it at about 148-150, then after adding nutes puts me at 850 with a Ph of 6 or so...I add 5 ml Cal-Mag per Gal, so i cant imagine a Cal def right? or am i under nuting the CalMag due to the plants height, which is about a ft. and a half. before flower...

 

[Kinderfeld]

Hmmm seems right to me. You don't have any signs of bugs correct?

 

[Rollin Face]

yeah no pests for sure, do you guys think its a salt build up? Ive been reading a little about the necrotic spotting and it seems to be the case? Should i flush with R/O water then get back to my regular schedule?

 

[SkunkyDemon]

Those spots are mites. They drain the leaf of N the older ones will yellow and die. Do you have a pest control regiment. I spray once a week with organiscide just as maintance. I would start of like every three days for two weeks. I always post- spray my girls with plain water after a hour or so. I think it helps wash off and dead adults and eegs that might be remainding. Hope this helps.
Peace

p.s. I just read where you said that there is no pest problem, but that sure looks like bite marks to me?

 

[Rollin Face]

totally sure man, i know it looks like bugs, but i take out the microscope and none to be found, not underneath or anything, the man veins in the leaf look almost rusty, and then when i play with the leaf it will crack/ be brittle etc..

 

[Rollin Face]

Day 15 shots in flower, im flushing the OGs to try and rid that spotting since i cant get any help it seems...the next pics are the Ogs and Cherry Ak:

OG:

C Ak:

 

[Rollin Face]

Indeed, im in love with her structure, im just trying to get her dialed, a lil testy this first run with her.

Man, in the midst of all this great dark green beautiful dank strains my worst nightmare has come back to haunt me.....PM!!! I have been spraying in veg with dutch masters Zone/Penetrator and havent seen it in 2 MONTHS!! Flip to 12/12 and i see it 2-3 weeks in..

I know Z/P works but dyes my pistils red really early, and theres nothing else i can think of that will help it now....i mean the PM is BARLEY spotting 4-5 leaves, but i know how out of control it can and most likley will be. Damn heart breaking if ya ask me....I added a fan and tomorrow ima try to clear some space in the tent so the airflow is more apparent....other than that, is there anything else i can do? and would yall recommend continuing the foliar z/p spray?

Besides that take a look at these Ak and Bubba pics is snapped today...i surely hope i dont loose another crop to this shit!! All on day 18 12/12

Ak:

Bubba:

another clone:

 

[Rollin Face]

Dont worry IC, i know you all love to see them buds, theyre coming, its day 22 here and where moving along pretty nicely i think..

I did see some change on the OGs, i thought a flush would help and it just made the ones in flower spot more, but not too bad, whereas the one i have in veg, i upped the ppms and saw little to no spotting anymore, which concludes she is quite a heavy feeder.

Well ive been taking pics the last few days, waiting to water my ladies again to see more bud swelling! So here what ive been up to and whats coming for the next few rounds!:

A macro shot of the OG on day 20 flower:

Cherry Ak day 20 flower:

Veg chamber with the large plants being, OG kush, Bubba Kush pre 98, and Burkle.... Then the little clones up top consist of: Double Underdawg, Chem 4, Cherry Ak, Burkle, and OG.

Chem4 leaf:

Ch AK (keeper forever):

Burkle: