O'Kief Full Melt Frames?
- Thread starter bongoman
- Start date
aloneinthewoods
Member
are these silk screens ??
C
Chamba
I kind of feel like a sucker paying a grant for some cheap craft store frames,
those okief frames do look a bit amateurish, don't they......
check out bubblebags.com for a much better dry sifting kit consisting of 4 screen frames, the top mesh is stainless steel, mesh size branded on each frame, interconnecting frames etc..check them out at bubbleman's site
http://www.bubblebag.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=67
those okief frames do look a bit amateurish, don't they......
check out bubblebags.com for a much better dry sifting kit consisting of 4 screen frames, the top mesh is stainless steel, mesh size branded on each frame, interconnecting frames etc..check them out at bubbleman's site
http://www.bubblebag.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=67
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They look great. If only they were half the size! I basically want a half-price bubble box I've realised.
C
Chamba
one Aussie dollar has dropped from being worth almost US$1.00 last Summer to a mere 64 or 65 cents today!......that means a US$100 item that cost AUS$108 in July now costs AUS$155!
Oi!, Oi!............. Ouch!
there's not much the average consumer can do about that......other than make some screen frames yourself or just grit your teeth and buy it.
btw do any grow or smoke shops in Australia sell any sifting boxes or stash boxes with screens?
Oi!, Oi!............. Ouch!
there's not much the average consumer can do about that......other than make some screen frames yourself or just grit your teeth and buy it.
btw do any grow or smoke shops in Australia sell any sifting boxes or stash boxes with screens?
Exactly. Lucky I bought my vaporiser from the US when the dollar was nearly one for one.
Not as far as I can tell. I'm sensing an opportunity here...a glass-bottomed, double-screen box, made from Australian wood. Simple and well-made.
For fuck sakes make your own, I never buy a godamn thing I can make.
You could pound these together in less tha 2-3 hours with a table saw and a trip to the craft store to buy mesh, any place selling silk screening stuff will have it.
If your very low tec just get your hand on a jig saw (safe and cheap and generally good to have around) then use a square of plywood and cut out a smaller square inside, make 2 of these.
Just use a few staples to secure the silkscreen to the first while pulling it tight and then sanswich the other piece on top and secure it with a few short screw or nuts and bolts with washers through to the other frame.
Be autonomous, it's a better word for cheap
You could pound these together in less tha 2-3 hours with a table saw and a trip to the craft store to buy mesh, any place selling silk screening stuff will have it.
If your very low tec just get your hand on a jig saw (safe and cheap and generally good to have around) then use a square of plywood and cut out a smaller square inside, make 2 of these.
Just use a few staples to secure the silkscreen to the first while pulling it tight and then sanswich the other piece on top and secure it with a few short screw or nuts and bolts with washers through to the other frame.
Be autonomous, it's a better word for cheap
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C
Chamba
of course make your own....if you have the ability, time and tools,,there's alot of satisfaction in doing that.
make sure that the screen frame sides are not too low or bud might fall over the sides when sifting....1.5"/40mm + sides will do the job....this is why 99% of screen printing frames needs modification to be suitable for our purpose
Happy Hashing
make sure that the screen frame sides are not too low or bud might fall over the sides when sifting....1.5"/40mm + sides will do the job....this is why 99% of screen printing frames needs modification to be suitable for our purpose
Happy Hashing
ThirdEyeVision
Member
after much searching i believe this place is the best when selection and price are considered.
Pic your size frame(s) and pic are lpi(s)
Stack em up and bam.
In reality a single 125 with a gentle technique will make nice melty, but these screens are so cheap get a few for sure
http://www.standardscreen.com/woodframes.aspx
Pic your size frame(s) and pic are lpi(s)
Stack em up and bam.
In reality a single 125 with a gentle technique will make nice melty, but these screens are so cheap get a few for sure
http://www.standardscreen.com/woodframes.aspx
whitebox
Active member
C
Chamba
screen printing frames can be used as they are, but are best modified to be suitable for dry sifting...for example a 3 or 4 screen frame dry sifting kit,
1) (for the top screen), the frame height on all screen printing frames is too low, so it's best to buy an extra frame with no mesh. Nail, screw and or glue this meshless frame on top of the frame this will give you the depth you will need to prevent losing bits of bud over the edge when working your material...no need to add extra frame height to the other frames.
2) (for the bottom screen frame).......as these frames are designed for screen printing, the mesh is attached to the bottom of the frame, so add a meshless screen frame to the base of this last frame so there is a gap between the mesh and the collection area so the particles can pass through.
3) use a router on the top and bottom edges of each frame so they interconnect and or add magnets..this will make them stay together and be alot easier to work with.
4) mark the mesh size on each screen frame to prevent confusion
5) cut a sheet of glass for use as the collection plate..thick glass is best or glue the glass to a sheet of wood or felt etc to help prevent breakage
6) add a lid ..
1) (for the top screen), the frame height on all screen printing frames is too low, so it's best to buy an extra frame with no mesh. Nail, screw and or glue this meshless frame on top of the frame this will give you the depth you will need to prevent losing bits of bud over the edge when working your material...no need to add extra frame height to the other frames.
2) (for the bottom screen frame).......as these frames are designed for screen printing, the mesh is attached to the bottom of the frame, so add a meshless screen frame to the base of this last frame so there is a gap between the mesh and the collection area so the particles can pass through.
3) use a router on the top and bottom edges of each frame so they interconnect and or add magnets..this will make them stay together and be alot easier to work with.
4) mark the mesh size on each screen frame to prevent confusion
5) cut a sheet of glass for use as the collection plate..thick glass is best or glue the glass to a sheet of wood or felt etc to help prevent breakage
6) add a lid ..
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I have found that using a few 1 gallon buckets with the bottoms cut out and 1 bucket intact works well for this. Take the intact bucket and use it for the bottom bucket. Place a piece of mesh (silk screen) over the opening on the top of the bucket, take the next bucket that has the bottom cut out and stack it together with the intact bucket sandwiching the mesh between the 2 buckets, this creates a mesh bottom for the 2nd bucket, the mesh may need to be pulled tight to remove any wrinkles. Take another bucket and repeat this step but this time use mesh that is more porous than the one below it.(this step is only necessary if you are concerned with separating the different grades of keif, if not one piece of mesh and two buckets are sufficient
C
Chamba
glue the mesh to the buckets?
No you don't need to, the pressure from the buckets being stacked keeps the mesh tight. Just lay the mesh flat over the top of the bucket and when you place the next bucket inside of the first it will tighten up the mesh (you may need to pull on the mesh a little to make sure it is even).
C
Chamba
.....but what about when you lift up each bucket, wouldn't it be better to have the mesh attached permanently?
and here's a hint....line the bottom bucket (the collector) with a sheet of paper...that way the resin can easily be picked (in the paper), folded in a Vee and "poured" into a container.
and while a 115 ~ 125 lpi mesh is a good all round choice for single screen sifting for just about all strains....you can also add a 80 ~ 105 lpi mesh screen frame as a "pre-screen" and a 135 lpi as a third mesh which will take your purity to another level
it's also a good idea to produce the top screen with stainless steel mesh (just like Bubbleman's new 4 frame dry sifting kit) so you can aggressively work the material if need be
Happy Dry Sifting
and here's a hint....line the bottom bucket (the collector) with a sheet of paper...that way the resin can easily be picked (in the paper), folded in a Vee and "poured" into a container.
and while a 115 ~ 125 lpi mesh is a good all round choice for single screen sifting for just about all strains....you can also add a 80 ~ 105 lpi mesh screen frame as a "pre-screen" and a 135 lpi as a third mesh which will take your purity to another level
it's also a good idea to produce the top screen with stainless steel mesh (just like Bubbleman's new 4 frame dry sifting kit) so you can aggressively work the material if need be
Happy Dry Sifting
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Mickymouse
Member
For the screen I wouldnt use silk screen.The right stuff to use is stainless wire cloth(mesh) make your own frames staple screen to it.Pull it tight and its like a drum top.
http://www.twpinc.com/twpinc/control/category-price/~category_id=TWPCAT_12
http://www.twpinc.com/twpinc/control/category-price/~category_id=TWPCAT_12
