water rez change 2 weeks tops?
- Thread starter medusa22
- Start date
medusa22 said:
68* (20c) should not cause root rot. Thats about right for rez temp.
This is what I would do.
Assuming your growing in Hydrotron.
1) Make sure you have no light leaks into then rez.
2) FLUSH with clearex or similar for 24 hours. Plus, pour some clearex solution down the top of the Net cup to flesh out the upper section of the Hydrotron and root ball.
3) Use Hygrozyme, Flora Sheild, or similar hydroponic root rot fixer in with your nutes.
4) Change your rez out every 7 days until you fix the rot problem then you might be able to strecth it to 10 days. (experiment with it) 14 days is to long.Especially if your having problems.
5)Verify your thermometer is accurate.
#1 Priority:
Get some Hygrozyme or similar to clear up the rot. But only add it AFTER you wash and flush the rez and all interior parts out really good with clearex.(or similar).
Hope that helps.
Pirate
EDIT:
If your roots are white and fairly firm with a slimy substance on them it might just be that your rez needs changing more often only. If they are brownish, greenish and/or mushy........you got root rot. How is the foliage?
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they brown like the first time i did aero lol...only the first time, the temps were about 25cº so it was normal...lol
this time they were fine but i tought i should only change the rez about once a month.
the foliage showed some dficiencies but then i changed the rez about 5 or 6 days ago...and it got better, still the root rot is atacking the plants...
Today i changed the rez once again, washed the roots with h2o2 and water, bleached the whole system down including clay balls, increased the airstones flow to more parts of the rez, decreased the amount of electric cables inside the rez (measuring equipment and water heater), added Biomagic from GHE, and currently keeping the ph over 6, cervantes book says it helps preventing root rot...
PS:today when i washed the roots of the plants i noticed some white roots just falling off, and some brown really resistent...also noticed the root system was developing, but the root rot was also atacking again.
should i lower the temps to 19?wont that affect the nutrient absortion?
thanks a lot
this time they were fine but i tought i should only change the rez about once a month.
the foliage showed some dficiencies but then i changed the rez about 5 or 6 days ago...and it got better, still the root rot is atacking the plants...
Today i changed the rez once again, washed the roots with h2o2 and water, bleached the whole system down including clay balls, increased the airstones flow to more parts of the rez, decreased the amount of electric cables inside the rez (measuring equipment and water heater), added Biomagic from GHE, and currently keeping the ph over 6, cervantes book says it helps preventing root rot...
PS:today when i washed the roots of the plants i noticed some white roots just falling off, and some brown really resistent...also noticed the root system was developing, but the root rot was also atacking again.
should i lower the temps to 19?wont that affect the nutrient absortion?
thanks a lot
Hi
Hi
Just though I'd stop by and see if I can give my 2cents as well. Also Pirate is right on the money with all his info.
I quoted what you said because it red-flagged in my brain
I grow in DWC - super-proned to root rot. One thing I look for is high churning. I make sure the water looks like a rolling boil. The bubbles in the water serve two main purposes imho. 1- For the process of osmosis where as the water direction on the roots assist in nutrient transfer. 2- Breaking the water. Obviously your plants are growing so you've covered step 1. I don't think you're breaking your water enough and you've already noticed it because you've added more air stones to cover more volume. Any areas in your tub that aren't being churned will bind and become thick - a bacterial breeding ground even under the right temps - This happened to me. My res temps are 80F on average 
but I have a thriving root system. I get some algae but minimal because light penetrates my white bucket. I've seen that rainforest, it's pretty large - what size air pump are you using and how many airstones do you have. I have a 1100gph sd550 and 3 - 4ft flexible weighted diffusers. I get the rolling boil effect in my bucket. This should help you. Good luck and I'm sure you'll overcome this.
Hi
medusa22 said:
Just though I'd stop by and see if I can give my 2cents as well. Also Pirate is right on the money with all his info.
I quoted what you said because it red-flagged in my brain
I grow in DWC - super-proned to root rot. One thing I look for is high churning. I make sure the water looks like a rolling boil. The bubbles in the water serve two main purposes imho. 1- For the process of osmosis where as the water direction on the roots assist in nutrient transfer. 2- Breaking the water. Obviously your plants are growing so you've covered step 1. I don't think you're breaking your water enough and you've already noticed it because you've added more air stones to cover more volume. Any areas in your tub that aren't being churned will bind and become thick - a bacterial breeding ground even under the right temps - This happened to me. My res temps are 80F on average but I have a thriving root system. I get some algae but minimal because light penetrates my white bucket. I've seen that rainforest, it's pretty large - what size air pump are you using and how many airstones do you have. I have a 1100gph sd550 and 3 - 4ft flexible weighted diffusers. I get the rolling boil effect in my bucket. This should help you. Good luck and I'm sure you'll overcome this.
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i use plain tap water...
since i changed it the water seems fuzzy due to biomagic, but i dont see any brown deposit like before...maybe it got fixed :S
one thing i noticed though is that my plants are in 12/12 for more than a week and i cant see any pistils...the rot caused the flowering to stop?
like i said its a aero system, so the surface of the water is cnostantly beeing showered with water...when i bought i was even told it had no necessity for an airpump :s
this is wat is looked like inside the rez :S
since i changed it the water seems fuzzy due to biomagic, but i dont see any brown deposit like before...maybe it got fixed :S
one thing i noticed though is that my plants are in 12/12 for more than a week and i cant see any pistils...the rot caused the flowering to stop?
like i said its a aero system, so the surface of the water is cnostantly beeing showered with water...when i bought i was even told it had no necessity for an airpump :s
this is wat is looked like inside the rez :S
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I run SM90 @ 1-2ml/g as a PREVENTATIVE and I swear by it. I started using it when I was growing in rDWC and had root rot issues from the start. Some growers on OG were speaking highly of SM90 so I tried it and haven't looked back since. I didn't even have rez/bucket temp (low-mid 70's) related problems in summer which was not possible without it.
I have since moved on to nft/aero but I still use SM90.
Hygrozyme is great stuff at FIXING root rot issues, SM90 to PREVENT.
Good luck!!!
I have since moved on to nft/aero but I still use SM90.
Hygrozyme is great stuff at FIXING root rot issues, SM90 to PREVENT.
Good luck!!!
medusa22 said:
Is this well or city water? Do you have a tds pen? If so, what's the ppm reading out of the tap?
medusa22 said:
This could take up to 3 weeks, although in my experience, most seem to show in under 2...
How old "from seed" are they?
medusa22 said:
Do you have the aero pump on a timer or is it on all the time?
Also, based on experience, I would get an air pump in there no matter what the sales person told me.
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good bacteria always win, introduce some good bacteria into your water. if you dont know the good bacteria eat faster and reproduce faster than the damage causing bacteria no chance for root rot on that front they also help with the plants uptake of macro elements, of course prevention is the key and I wouldn't be using tap water, I know its been said before but I wouldn't drink it so why would you, I will go get some scriptures
Bcity , exactly,
All those "preventative" solutions are generally a waste of time.
Bubbling the res and adding beneficial organisms is the best way to go.
I've been using GH subculture with an air stone or two in the res. ( for years)
Very simple and you're not fighting a standoff battle trying to eliminate all organisms in your res.
JMHO
All those "preventative" solutions are generally a waste of time.
Bubbling the res and adding beneficial organisms is the best way to go.
I've been using GH subculture with an air stone or two in the res. ( for years)
Very simple and you're not fighting a standoff battle trying to eliminate all organisms in your res.
JMHO
Nature has natural system checks in place to counter-balance harmful organisms/ moulds such as .... pythium. the only problem is hydroponic system tend to produce bio void environments rather than a bio-diverse, if harmful organism slip into a bio-void environment then there are no natural checks in place to combat their spread.
By adding beneficial microorganisms into your water/nutrient you are able to make your system bio-diverse
The rhizosphere of roots is naturally colonized by many beneficial and/or pathogenic bacteria and fungi, these micro organisms compete with one another and sometimes complement each other's existence in the rhinosphere.
beneficial microbes are able to improve the uptake of and/or produce plant growth promoting substances. they can also protect plant surfaces from attacks by pathogenic microbes through direct competitive effects(bio mass) and by production of anti pathogenic compounds ; just some of the beneficial microbes are rhizobium, mycorrhizae, trichoderma, bacillus subtillus , pseudomonas and azospirillum
Hope that can help like I said above good bacteria always win
when it comes to changing your res I'm really naughty I only change it once for veg and twice for bloom(I top it up as I go) lol the joys of a reverse osmosis and a bio diverse enviroment.
By adding beneficial microorganisms into your water/nutrient you are able to make your system bio-diverse
The rhizosphere of roots is naturally colonized by many beneficial and/or pathogenic bacteria and fungi, these micro organisms compete with one another and sometimes complement each other's existence in the rhinosphere.
beneficial microbes are able to improve the uptake of and/or produce plant growth promoting substances. they can also protect plant surfaces from attacks by pathogenic microbes through direct competitive effects(bio mass) and by production of anti pathogenic compounds ; just some of the beneficial microbes are rhizobium, mycorrhizae, trichoderma, bacillus subtillus , pseudomonas and azospirillum
Hope that can help like I said above good bacteria always win
when it comes to changing your res I'm really naughty I only change it once for veg and twice for bloom(I top it up as I go) lol the joys of a reverse osmosis and a bio diverse enviroment.
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SB7 said:
I have to respectfully disagree with you on SM90 being a waste of time. Agreed, some products may be, but this is not one of them. Although it does prevent root zone issues, it promotes healthy, larger root zones. I've seen the results first hand, root growth is explosive... And pretty bright white I might add...
I do agree with you and BCity on beneficial bacteria and air in the rez of course. In my case though, beneficials are tough to "colonize" because I grow in zero substrate, foam collars only. No medium in my system at all. When I ran rDWC (foam collars as well) I tried using lava rock in the rez and in the bottom of the buckets to colonize beneficial bacteria but it messed with the recirculating of water....
his guys thanks for the help...
->the reading on my tap water reads 0.25ec, i use tap water cause around here it has plenty of calcium and my flora products are the hard water formula.
->I just keep the aero system on 24/7 never shutdown the pump cause i was told i had no necessity.
->they came from clones...from 2 plants i grew up from seed...but i also noticed the damn mother new york has no pistils yet, and mother white widow barely has stuff to show too...:S
the seed i came across in my last grow of ice cool is already making buds though...(hurray for my homegrown bagseed which is better than €12 seeds lol)
->well ive been using this bacteria and since then i have no problems at all...but i also bleached the whole thing down bit by bit just to make sure...
Just one thing guys...the plants who take more time to show, do so just cause they take longer to finish??????cause i dont wanna be flowering this strange new york city(nycd vs jack herrer) thing for 100 days or anything like it :s
they have some nutrient deficiencies could it be cause of that?
thanks for all the info guys, finally i believe my hydro system is on the right track!
->the reading on my tap water reads 0.25ec, i use tap water cause around here it has plenty of calcium and my flora products are the hard water formula.
->I just keep the aero system on 24/7 never shutdown the pump cause i was told i had no necessity.
->they came from clones...from 2 plants i grew up from seed...but i also noticed the damn mother new york has no pistils yet, and mother white widow barely has stuff to show too...:S
the seed i came across in my last grow of ice cool is already making buds though...(hurray for my homegrown bagseed which is better than €12 seeds lol)
->well ive been using this bacteria and since then i have no problems at all...but i also bleached the whole thing down bit by bit just to make sure...
Just one thing guys...the plants who take more time to show, do so just cause they take longer to finish??????cause i dont wanna be flowering this strange new york city(nycd vs jack herrer) thing for 100 days or anything like it :s
they have some nutrient deficiencies could it be cause of that?
thanks for all the info guys, finally i believe my hydro system is on the right track
!
G
Gobwats
Another vote for going with the Hygrozyme; the girl at our hydro store got me to try some (kept bugging her to give me something free for all I had spent, so she found a sample of Hygrozyme and gave it to me, lol.) The stuff works great and is now part of my regular reservoir nute solution change outs, which I do every week. Also try adding some Mychorrizae (beneficial bacteria) to the mix; I'm using it this time around and so far it is working great (only need to add it every couple of weeks.) Make sure you get the hydro stuff (they make some for soil as well.) My first grow my roots had a brown tinge to them which I attributed to the nutes (same brown discoloration on everything in the reservoir.) The current grow is in the third week of flowering and the roots are as white as can be.
