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Soil mix for outdoor Cannabis with few visits

BACKCOUNTRY

Mourning the loss of my dog......
Veteran
High all! I know this is technically a indoor organic forum, but I wanted to catch the eyes of growers who are really into Organics.

During my Guerrilla career, I have mostly been organic, only using Miracle grow occasionally a couple years, and at home my food garden is always organic, using mostly manure compost.
But now I want to get more serious about tapping the full potential Organic growing can provide.

I am trying to find the best solution for my special needs as a Guerrilla outdoor grower.

I am trying to develop irrigation systems that will allow me 3-5 weeks between visits, this will mean no more weekly feedings with fresh aerated manure/guano teas as I did when growing 100% organic.

I am also trying to create a super planting soil that can be made in advance at home, and mixed in my planting holes with the native soil(1 part planting soil/2 parts native soil), the native soils I use have PH in the 6.3-6.7 range, and are very well draining(sandy loam).
My idea with the super planting soil is to make a single very potent mix that contains all the amendments(and friendly bacteria) needed to improve the soil of my holes.
Pre-digging holes through my winter is hard because its so wet, and its not good for the soil texture to handle it when saturated with water, and often it can be less than a week to planting time before the soil drains enough to work, unless I manage to hit a odd 2 week dry spell mid-winter.
Pre-digging holes before winter is hard because my woods are full of hunters. All this means I don't usually have the luxury of holes dug and amended months ahead of time, which is how I'd rather do it so that the soil can cook and mellow for awhile before plants are applied.

What I'd like to do with this super planting soil is mix it months ahead of time and let it cook and mellow, and then take it to the holes and mix it in, possibly on the same day I plant, hopefully with no bad side affects.

I can't use Bone, blood, or fish meals due to scavenging animals digging up the soil, by the way.

Here is my current idea of a mix-

The base will be Peat moss, to each gallon of peat I'll add:

Dolomite lime- 3 TBS, this is to balance the PH of the Peat and to add Magnesium and Calcium, I'm adding 1 more TBS than normal for the soil I'll be adding this to
Chicken manure Compost(3-3-1) -2 cups, high Nitrogen and Phosphorus source
llama manure Compost(1-1-1?) -1 quart, partly for soil conditioning and to act as a slower release Nitrogen source
Kelp meal- 2 TBS, Potassium and Micro nutrients
Green sand- 2 TBS Slower acting source of Potassium
Soft rock Phosphate-1 cup??? Slower acting source of Phosphorus

I'll mix this all ahead of time(February) and let it sit until I can get out and dig holes this winter, or else until planting time in May.
I'll dig my holes, saving the best draining parts of the soil and the top soil aside for mixing back in. Then I'll mix 1 part Super planting soil to 2 parts native soil in the hole. At planting time I'll apply Mycorrhizae powder to the roots.

After planting, visits will be every 3-5 weeks, so I won't be able to apply regular feedings of Guano or manure teas to supplement. I am thinking either I'll side dress with Guanos when I do visit, or else apply a super strong tea.

At any rate, this is just a rough plan, I'm looking for pitfalls in my idea, and ways around them, I'm especially concerned that making this super planting so potent may actually be bad for the Micro-heard I'm trying to foster, any input??
 

Ulysses

Member
I've experimented with this idea...

I used EarthWorm Castings as a base. Added Fox Farms Fruit & Flower, Plant Success Mych, Dolomite Lime, Diamtomaceous Earth, and Chunky Perlite-- Sprayed this mess with Maxi-crop Kelp until I got mud and let it sit in a covered 5 gal bucket allowing it to cook-- which is key...

Gotta let that stuff cook. Plants need that stuff right away and letting it break down naturally in the soil may take too long to benefit the plant in the early stages of growth resulting in a weak flower cycle...

I believe that too much P can inhibit mych growth- 'think I read that somewhere? Usually, I got a nice growth of mych fuzz throughout the mix...

I put the moist mix in 1 gallon ziplock bags for transport. It's easier to pack than a "full soil mix", works well enough if you can find good on site top soil and with some minor tweaks, may become standard operating procedure...

I feel topdressing is largely a waste of nutes- just doesn't get the nutes where they need to be. I like the idea you were playing with- using a pipe or tube leading to the bottom of the hole and applying water and nutes right to the base of the root zone- gonna work that idea- keeping it as low tech as possible- even considering linking soaker hose sections...

Keep those warm thinking creative ideas flowing... Spring is near- prepare now!

Right now, I'm trying to find something non-acidic to use as mulch. I covered a few root balls with rotting landscape fabric (better camo than new fabric) and noticed the tiny roots grew right up to it...
 
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BACKCOUNTRY

Mourning the loss of my dog......
Veteran
Yeah, I'd prefer to bring a very rich tea solution and apply through Silverbacks Gorilla collar, rather than side dress, but I'm trying to get a idea of how rich I could make it.

I need to find info on what happens to the Micro-heard when they are in extremely rich soil mixes, and what may be toxic to them in large quantities.

I'm going to be digging holes in the neighborhood of 20-30 gallons, in soil that lacks much Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Calcium, and Magnesium, also the soil is fairly gravely/sandy(with thin topsoil layer), so it doesn't hold moisture very well. These conditions are why I need the soil mix, to majorly feed the soil and help it hold moisture better, a fertilizer mix brought in a 1 gallon bag won't even begin to be enough.

I'm also trying to keep the ingredients basic, I'm not interested in pre-mixed/bottled organics, I prefer to mix my own from scratch.
 
i had problems with animals and kelp meal last year in my veggie garden..actually it was more of a disaster...i just add some greensand and azomite about a week ago to let it break down over winter...just learning organics so i hope that'll be enough available K / micros for next year

just thought i'd mention that
 

BACKCOUNTRY

Mourning the loss of my dog......
Veteran
What kinds of animals? I've used Kelp meal outdoors since 2005, no problems though. I like using it because it contains nearly every micro-nutrient needed, along with a good dose of potassium.

I'm gonna give this topic a few weeks longer to work out, and then I'm gonna move forward with fingers crossed and hope I don't over do anything.
 

magiccannabus

Next Stop: Outer Space!
Veteran
Anything with soil wetting polymers is recommended. Pro-Mix for containers is a good example, or just buy some Soil Moist crystals. Also, put a little bit of clay in your mix, it will help with the long term water retention and plants love a little clay.
 
did you read the thread?

magiccannabus said:
Anything with soil wetting polymers is recommended. Pro-Mix for containers is a good example, or just buy some Soil Moist crystals. Also, put a little bit of clay in your mix, it will help with the long term water retention and plants love a little clay.

BC i was having rabbit problems....cottontails to be exact.....i know it was the kelp because 1/3 of the garden didn't have any applied and it was left alone...
 

Cascadia

Member
Hey BC! In my experience, and after looking around here a bit, I'd say you could get away with feedings of moderate strength Guano teas every 3-5 weeks as long as your soil is amended well to start with. I used to do semi-stand alone grows in Beaver swamps, I amended the soil well and then would bring Guano teas once or twice a month if I had time, worked great for me.

I'm kinda seeking out a long lasting potting soil myself, for use in my Earth boxes this summer. What are you cooking up now that you abandoned the GSWD?
 
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hey backcountry,
i've had success with adding a little bit more ;) than the recomended dose of those polymer crystals that absorb water and then slowly release it back out. 2 years ago, i would only be watering every 2 weeks with a nice, rich organic tea and they did quite fine.

they also make the soil more airy, so i would cut down the amount of perlite you are adding to the mix slightly if you do decide on adding these.
 

BACKCOUNTRY

Mourning the loss of my dog......
Veteran
High Cascadia, I'm also thinking that its a good plan, heavy enrich the soil and then always bring fresh tea whenever I do visit.
As for the replacement for the GSWD? Basically its a Earthbox that you build right in the planting hole, with easy to pack materials that could be hauled in a hiking backpack. I call it the Earthhole......

undertaker- Because of how my watering device works I won't need water retaining crystals anymore, although I've been a big user for years now, using 3 times the recommended dose.
I won't need to add Perlite, or any other drainage to the soil because the native soil is very well draining, because of lots of sand and small gravel. Insted, the only soil conditioner I will add will be Peat, to help retain moisture and nutrients, and also to help the Capillary action my watering device uses to irrigate the soil.

Its all coming together, I've got the design on the device just about done, then I'll build one and go dig a hole and put it in, just to help with visualization of what I'm trying to do.
 
Hey guys, when amending soil for minimal visits is layering a valid technique that could help? Like layering a high P rated guano more at the bottom and then another amendment that will support veg (more N) on top of that? Or will the roots naturally just use what is available and what it wants. I'm thinking about some chicken manure which will sustain veg, guano for flowering stages, and then kelp meal for all its good traces, all mixed up or layered i don't know...

Any thoughts?

Bugg
 
bugg- your mention of layering prompted me to add my input....backcountry my man! ive had success this way you might wanna try....i will make a top-dressing last longer and be less likely to burn or overfeed by applying it in different layers of my mulching....try mulching with a few sheets of newspaper with a natural cover on top(dry grass, leaves, etc) and put your top-dress 1/4 under the newspaper on the bare soil, a 1/2 over the newspaper but under the leaves, and the last 1/2 on top of the leaves. try something with no fish, bone or blood since its guerilla! it works for me!
 

Ulysses

Member
We could look at this in a different way:

Select strains that require less nutes...

I remember a grow on another site- a very long flowering Viet/Thai that required only amended soil and dolomite... It was indoor however...
 

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