Vertical lights and heat
- Thread starter LORD BENIS
- Start date
That sounds reasonable, 00420. I had an ac that was about that size in my room. I ultimately found that even in summer in the south east, I don't need ac with enough airflow. Since we're talking about co2 here, the ac is necessary. More aircooling on the lights = less power bill on the ac. That's important, I think. You'll thank yourself for using a fan that you think is larger than necessary on those lights.
D
DEDHEDFRED
Hey LB.........I`ve never grown with anything but vertical bare bulbs for well over 12 yrs.......You`re making the right decision as long as you keep the wattage down as you plan on..........
My `ol krusty grows were 4 plants in a 10x10 room with 4-600`s and a 1000 watt MH in an "X" pattern with plants in a diamond pattern so each plant had 3 lights blastin em at all times.........
3-600`s is what I`ve run for the last 5 yrs in 6x9rooms with 35 ebb and flow buckets using flip rooms so harvest could be done every 31-35 days.......
I use small fans pointed up at the lights and my fan/scrubber combo pulls heat and stank outta the room twice per minute......My 10000 btu portable ac/heater stays dormant most of the time and only works hard in the heat of summer.......
Take care and good luck Lord Benis.........There`s a thread over at the cabana by Heath Robinson doin 2 critical mass plants with 3-600`s and the yield was on up there but big plants need deep penetration so don`t grow em too big if you wanna grow several or they`ll be competing for light as well as environment........
Don`t worry bout a/c.........Worry bout gettin a dehuey when they start drinkin and sweatin mid-late flower........My 2 cents from all those yrs..........Peace.......DHF.........
.......
My `ol krusty grows were 4 plants in a 10x10 room with 4-600`s and a 1000 watt MH in an "X" pattern with plants in a diamond pattern so each plant had 3 lights blastin em at all times.........
3-600`s is what I`ve run for the last 5 yrs in 6x9rooms with 35 ebb and flow buckets using flip rooms so harvest could be done every 31-35 days.......
I use small fans pointed up at the lights and my fan/scrubber combo pulls heat and stank outta the room twice per minute......My 10000 btu portable ac/heater stays dormant most of the time and only works hard in the heat of summer.......
Take care and good luck Lord Benis.........There`s a thread over at the cabana by Heath Robinson doin 2 critical mass plants with 3-600`s and the yield was on up there but big plants need deep penetration so don`t grow em too big if you wanna grow several or they`ll be competing for light as well as environment........
Don`t worry bout a/c.........Worry bout gettin a dehuey when they start drinkin and sweatin mid-late flower........My 2 cents from all those yrs..........Peace.......DHF.........
.......
LORD BENIS
Member
Thanks for the reply Fred, finally someone who has direct experience. Ya, I've been talking to Heath and he basically does the same as you and just exhaust the air out the room twice a minute. Passive intake/active exhaust is what I'd rather do, what are your max temps and where do you intake from? I live in central Texas and it stays ~100F for about four months out of the year here, and ~90F in the Spring. Needless to say, I couldn't cool a room intaking 100F air, and at the same time I don't wanna intake from another room because I'm running central AC from March-December and I don't wanna just exhaust all the cold air I pay good money for.
D
DEDHEDFRED
Bro......I live in the "HELL" of Hells deep southeast bible belt........But.......I grow in basements only LB......
I use active intakes also not passive but they`re all on thermostats and speed controllers to keep my lights on /off temps hopefully within 10 degrees.....
That freakin Heathie told me he`s within "6" degrees lights on/off not too long ago..........The bastard......
.....
I pull fresh air from crawlspaces and exhaust into a lung room of sorts with everything mixing and co-mingling in basements that stay 65-70 yr. round underground.........Is there any way you can pull from underneath and exhaust there too for no heat signature ?.......
I`ll be more than happy ta help in any way I can Bro......Holler.....DHF...... ........
I use active intakes also not passive but they`re all on thermostats and speed controllers to keep my lights on /off temps hopefully within 10 degrees.....
That freakin Heathie told me he`s within "6" degrees lights on/off not too long ago..........The bastard......
.....I pull fresh air from crawlspaces and exhaust into a lung room of sorts with everything mixing and co-mingling in basements that stay 65-70 yr. round underground.........Is there any way you can pull from underneath and exhaust there too for no heat signature ?.......
I`ll be more than happy ta help in any way I can Bro......Holler.....DHF......
........
Last edited:
LORD BENIS
Member
Fred-No basement or crawl spaces here, I'll have to exhaust into the attic or outside; and intake through a louver in the door from the hallway. Do you think it's better to run a window unit in a sealed room or run a passive intake from another room and exhaust it with a fan? Anyone else? Remember I'm not using reflectors or cool tubes.
ApolloGreed
New member
might be of interest...
might be of interest...
Theres a guy name green bastard who has addressed 90% of the issues that you desire answers to. He has a unique system that has been through at least 8 iterations so it's proven producer. relatively low tech but innovative. do a google search on green bastard vert and it should pop up
might be of interest...
Theres a guy name green bastard who has addressed 90% of the issues that you desire answers to. He has a unique system that has been through at least 8 iterations so it's proven producer. relatively low tech but innovative. do a google search on green bastard vert and it should pop up
LORD BENIS
Member
Ya, but Green Bastard uses way more light and plant count than me. I suspect that his temps and humidity will be vastly different.
LORD BENIS said:
LORD BENIS
Member
Bump ^
J
Joe Budden
High all I'm currently drawing out plans for my next grow, I'm going to build a vertical octagon. I have looked at allot of vertical grows and I have took a bit from allot of different setups and also threw in some of my own. I'm going to build 8 'units' each unit will have 3 shelf's at 4 plants per shelf. Have a look at my pics below. These units will be pulled together so they form an Octagon shape.
My question is, can I get away with not using cool tubes for 3 vertically aligned 600's inside an octagon measured at 52"? I was also thinking about getting a 50" parabolic reflector and modifying it by putting an extractor fan in the center where the bulb would be and suck out all the heat from the octagon as well as a fan at on the floor pushing the heat up, this would save a few lumens from being lost 2
but I'm thinking that it won't work and I'll have to buy the expensive vertitube or go with sealed room with AC n CO2 hmmmm what do you guys think? Have a look at my pics for more info, btw the pic says 8 rows where I meant 3. Also the plants will be tilted towards the lights.
L8r JB
My question is, can I get away with not using cool tubes for 3 vertically aligned 600's inside an octagon measured at 52"? I was also thinking about getting a 50" parabolic reflector and modifying it by putting an extractor fan in the center where the bulb would be and suck out all the heat from the octagon as well as a fan at on the floor pushing the heat up, this would save a few lumens from being lost 2
but I'm thinking that it won't work and I'll have to buy the expensive vertitube or go with sealed room with AC n CO2 hmmmm what do you guys think? Have a look at my pics for more info, btw the pic says 8 rows where I meant 3. Also the plants will be tilted towards the lights.L8r JB
Attachments
J
Joe Budden
Sorry still getting used to the new features on IC hehe, Oh I added a chart to show how many lumens are recieved at different distances,
P
purpledomgoddes
1k mh/hps hung vertically w/out hood/cool tube is doable.
place 12-18" fan underneath light(s).
place ac (8-12k btu) in line w/ lights, also place oscillating fan(s) @ light-height+above light-height.
should keep temps ~78-88.
depending on measurements of room, may have to place lights closer together (not equally spaced between light-to-wall). higher ambient air temps (78-88f) may be beneficial, as long as actual leaf temp is lower.
air-leak proof - then air leak proof again. light-leak proof, then light leak proof again.
run w/ lights on 24/7 w/out vegetables to measure hi/lo shift(s). place buckets of water in room to simulate transpiring plants (to see how well/not so well ac reduces rh).
practice routine maintenanace w/ lights on + mock measured capony/plants to simulate working in the mature garden.
vegetables will grow as close to lights as they see fit to. optimum maximum distance from closest part of the plant 1ft. 85f @ closest monitor o.k.
4-6 plants will produce a bountiful harvest of vegetables. entire plant(s) are canopy, so place lights @ approx center (lengthwise) of plant(s). if morethan 1 light, stagger lights in staircase-like pattern from top to bottom. even lower nodes will produce plump tomatoes! uvb light(s) above may be considered too.
get sunglasses + enjoy.
place 12-18" fan underneath light(s).
place ac (8-12k btu) in line w/ lights, also place oscillating fan(s) @ light-height+above light-height.
should keep temps ~78-88.
depending on measurements of room, may have to place lights closer together (not equally spaced between light-to-wall). higher ambient air temps (78-88f) may be beneficial, as long as actual leaf temp is lower.
air-leak proof - then air leak proof again. light-leak proof, then light leak proof again.
run w/ lights on 24/7 w/out vegetables to measure hi/lo shift(s). place buckets of water in room to simulate transpiring plants (to see how well/not so well ac reduces rh).
practice routine maintenanace w/ lights on + mock measured capony/plants to simulate working in the mature garden.
vegetables will grow as close to lights as they see fit to. optimum maximum distance from closest part of the plant 1ft. 85f @ closest monitor o.k.
4-6 plants will produce a bountiful harvest of vegetables. entire plant(s) are canopy, so place lights @ approx center (lengthwise) of plant(s). if morethan 1 light, stagger lights in staircase-like pattern from top to bottom. even lower nodes will produce plump tomatoes! uvb light(s) above may be considered too.
get sunglasses + enjoy.
