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Difference between budding right after transplant and waiting?

TGT

Tom 'Green' Thumb
Veteran
I have done things a little different this grow and I am wondering if I messed up a little. When I transplant my plants into their final pots I usually let them take hold for a week or two before triggering. I like to let the roots grow out into the new soil and get accustom to their new pots. I wanted to try smaller plants so what I did was transplant into the final pots and budded right away without the regular 'take hold' period. What I was thinking I should have done was transplant them earlier so they would be much smaller, then still let them take hold like usual. That way I would have smaller plants and they would have a chance to get use to the new pots. I hope that made sense lol.

Anyways, my question is, does anyone think it doesn't make a difference or is it a good idea to wait before triggering so the roots have a chance to fill the new medium a little? I do believe the roots still grow for at least the stretch faze, so I don't think it should make much of a difference - but any input would be greatly appreciated.

TGT
 
G

Greyskull

I don't know if there is scientific data to back my claims or preferences, but I too like to let the girls get used to their new homes before I change the photoperiod. No matter how gentle you are the plants IMO still get some shock. I just think they like getting the chance to settle in before being forced. I give them a week.

usually. the latest crop I harvested I decided to be cool and try using smaller containers (1g) and more plants. I did not give the plants my usual week of adjustment (which also meant a week less of veg growth) and the harvest, while tip top quality, was a little bit lighter than I like to pull... even from low yeilders. I am hesitant to use the 1g pots again though I might give thema another try but with the extra week of adjustment/veg time before forcing.

i hope this helps you some.
 

steppinRazor

cant stop wont stop
Veteran
yeah damn man i have no idea.

how long they been in 12/12?
do you have room to grow them bigger?

im not real sure about it but it seems having excess soil that stays wet because lack of roots its maybe possible to get a little bit of root wrot... could be wrong tho

i never transplant, i start with 5 gal pots and water around the plant for the first week - 2weeks increasing the the watering area as according to how big i think the root mass is.. its never failed me i end up rootbound every time.

something about flowering, maybe the light or maybe the nutes you use durring this cycle.. i swear i remember hearing something about this being great for roots...
come to think of it i thinks its the flowering nutes that help initial root growth..
but i dont know how well it would help an alreadly flowering plant..
shit im not sure if anyof that made sense either..
fucked up..

anwyas can you afford to keep veging??
 

TGT

Tom 'Green' Thumb
Veteran
Greyskull said:
I don't know if there is scientific data to back my claims or preferences, but I too like to let the girls get used to their new homes before I change the photoperiod. No matter how gentle you are the plants IMO still get some shock. I just think they like getting the chance to settle in before being forced. I give them a week.

usually. the latest crop I harvested I decided to be cool and try using smaller containers (1g) and more plants. I did not give the plants my usual week of adjustment (which also meant a week less of veg growth) and the harvest, while tip top quality, was a little bit lighter than I like to pull... even from low yeilders. I am hesitant to use the 1g pots again though I might give thema another try but with the extra week of adjustment/veg time before forcing.

i hope this helps you some.
Thanks for your imput, it is greatly appreciated. Seems you like to let them sit just like I do, so I guess I'll just have to wait and see if the yield is lower like you noticed with your grow. Actually, if the yield is a little lower it will be fine with me. I really just wanted to do them smaller this time around so that I would not have to mess with all those octopus arms flopping every which way. My last grow the plants were monsters and almost every bud had to be tied up so that it didn't hit the light and burn. It was such a pain in the butt and so much extra work that I swore I would never let them get that big again. I was so stressed the buds would burn and cause a fire. Yield was excellent, but not worth the head ache. So even a little less yield will be fine as long as I don't have to deal with all those buds flopping around. I think they should still produce okay, just I wish I had them a bit smaller so I could have let them settle a bit before triggering. Actually, I think they were transplanted three days prior to flipping, so may be it's not all that bad.

Steppinrazor, thanks for your comments. I have plenty of room to veg them longer, but I really don't want to switch them back to veg as they have been budding for three days already. It really is not that long in, but it would stress them and I don't think it would do them any good.

You say you plant directly in the final pots. Have you ever cut through the dirt after the plants were finished to see how well the roots utilized the soil? I am just curious if the whole soil was used or just the bottom third? It has been said that transplanting into multiple containers working your way up is the best way to allow the roots to utilize the soil.

TGT
 
People say roots dont grow much after the stretch (aprox 2 week period).

With that in mind - You would want to time your final veg container size based off how rootbound the container got after the stretch was over.

Sounds good ay ?
 

steppinRazor

cant stop wont stop
Veteran
no i've never actually sliced the soil clump to see how they have utualized their home.
i've only noticed that i've had pretty good success and the final product is rooted to the point where they pretty much have no more room outside the pot.

i agree that after 3 days it would probably be foolish to switch back to 24light or 18/6 and anything in between.

i guess you best bet is just keep on going and see how ya did in the end.
reguardless it will be a learning experience and thats what we're after..

i wish you luck and many more harvests to come
 

maryj315

Member
I had to transplant from a 2 gallon to a 5 gallon and go straight to flower for over a year until i got a second set of t5s so i could fit all my buckets

They rooted the buckets as in when you pulled the ball out it all stayed together in the form of the buckets

I do not really worry about yield but i was never disappointed and i also was making noob mistakes

Mj
 
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Stinkymutt

Active member
2 weeks

2 weeks

Hello , I just had a conversation about this very exact thing a week ago . What I was told is that after 2 weeks 12 12 the roots pretty much stop growing . I have been switching to 12 12 too early and not letting the plants put down some roots to support themselves. I was finding in 3 gal buckets (after transplant from 1 gal) that the roots never even spread down to take advantage of the extra soil. I was told to wait a good 2 weeks after transplant so that the roots can get a good hold in new soil before switching lights . I will try to get the person I was talking with to add to your thread with his words so I dont mess it up , he has a way of saying it so even I could understand what he was saying. Also it depends on the strain ( Sat. dominant or Indica) as to the rate roots vs plant grow . Any way Ill PM him and see if he can add to this , he gave me some good info !
peace
mutt
 

Dr Dog

Sharks have a week dedicated to me
Veteran
I normally will transplant into their final containers, from 1 gal to about 4 to 5 gallon. I wait for teh 1 gal containers to be very small for the plant and I have to water it every day. I will transplant that into the bigger container. and normally will switch the light the following night.

The trick is to water them well while transplanting. I will bring them out to my kitchen sink and water them with the nozzle thing until it runs out the bottom. If you leave dry spots in the new soil/medium, the roots will avoid that.

I dont think the roots stop growing, they just get fatter and extend very slowly, adding another area to feed for the roots, and they will follow, just alot slower than normal. the later in flower the slower the growth. So giant container switches would not be good, the medium may go sour while sitting in a dark damp environment.
 

cocktail frank

Ubiquitous
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
i can only tell you what i do and it works well.

i usually veg in small pots, no bigger than 1 gallon.
these are for well trained bushes too.
i transplant to 5 gallons, then flip right away.
i have found that if i water them slightly, the roots fill out faster.

for instance,
when i flip in the new 5 gallon buckets, i give them NO MORE than 1/4 - 1/2 gallon of water.
it will take about 5-7 days for them to be thirsty again.
i give them another 1/2 gallon of water, i repeat this for the first 2-3 weeks of flower.
after the 3rd week, io bump up to 1 gallon of water for each bucket (depending)
for the majority of their flowering period they will get 1 gallon of water every 5th day or so.
until transpiration comes to an end and they stop drinking so much, then i kick back down to 1/4 - 1/2 gallon again.

hope this helps, i find it to be best
 
G

Greyskull

Crazy Composer said:
I was the guy Stinkymutt had a conversation about this with.

This is a very interesting topic, and can totally revolutionize your gardening productivity if you can understand it. I started a thread about this a couple months back... let me find a link...

Found it.

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=97375&highlight=topic

:laughing: = bitchin' read

kinda puts things into persepctive for me with that last crop (pre 98 bubba kush & sour dieselxsour bubba).... mahalo
 

TGT

Tom 'Green' Thumb
Veteran
I usually find when I transplant from a smaller pot into the 3.5 gallon and then water, the plant seems to suck up all the water from it's tighly compacted root ball and the rest (the new soil around the old pot) stays wet. I find the plant will even start to droop with the new soil being wet and the pots heavy with the old pot soil being dry as a bone. When this happens I water just enough to saturate the old soil and then after a week or so the roots have spread out and it starts to take the water from the entire pot. The reason why I brought this up is because even with this grow that I triggering right after transplant has had this happen. So this must mean the roots are growing well. It has been a week so I probably have another week or two of fast root growth, and then it should start to slow. I think by then I will have utilized all the soil so I probably do not have to worry.

Thanks for the link, I'll have to read it now.

TGT
 
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Stinkymutt

Active member
TGT , Let us know if there is any big difference in the outcome of this grow . I am going to be transplanting from 1 gal to 2.5 gal pots very soon myself. I am going to try and let them root out a little better this time , but I usually end up running out of room because of stretching if they get to large in veg. . As most this thread will probably fade away but it would be good to know how things went for you by flowering right away.
peace
Mutt
 
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