damn! nice skills on that build bro.
ooga booga!! 6 lights, sealed & moving coco cave!!
- Thread starter ooga booga
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S
srk
I recommended those straps but I also recommended using chains once you get the filter up for back up. Its better to be safe than sorry. Goodluck ooga booga, I don't envy you in this stage of the game, doing all that work by yourself would be a bitch.
ooga booga
Member
I'm gonna seal the doors kinda like this:
Hope that does the trick. Need another roll of that rubber strip, then need to build the door. The door will be more or less the opposite, 2x4 frame with 2x2 edge to seal, filled with R-13 (maybe rigid foam, still undecided) and sealed off with plywood.
Hope that does the trick. Need another roll of that rubber strip, then need to build the door. The door will be more or less the opposite, 2x4 frame with 2x2 edge to seal, filled with R-13 (maybe rigid foam, still undecided) and sealed off with plywood.
ooga booga
Member
Had to re-do all the wiring in the relay box... first some wires were like, 1" too short. Then the solid wires (#14, couldn't find #16) were way too stiff and difficult to work with, so I went with stranded instead of solid wires (and individual ring terminals instead of a giant combined copper one). Well, I ran out of terminals, so here we are for the night. After I'm all done, I'll zip-tie & tuck the wires so that they don't physically interfere with the relays.
6 outlets will be 240v, and 2 will be 120v (one 120v used for inline fans used for light cooling, the other possibly for a 120v ballast).
I was originally going with a strain relief and connecting it to an external digital timer, but now I'm thinking of taking apart this digital timer, cutting a hole in the lid, and mounting it as if it were an integrated unit. (I know, if the timer fails it'll be a pain.) More on that tomorrow.
Most of the walls are finished. Need to finish 1 corner, install 2 doors, and run wiring & insulation on the final side.
I should be able to run plumbing and start work on the room interiors this weekend. Probably ready for a test run by Monday. So far the ventilation is kicking ass, and the sound-proofing absolutely is amazing... if I must say so myself.
6 outlets will be 240v, and 2 will be 120v (one 120v used for inline fans used for light cooling, the other possibly for a 120v ballast).
I was originally going with a strain relief and connecting it to an external digital timer, but now I'm thinking of taking apart this digital timer, cutting a hole in the lid, and mounting it as if it were an integrated unit. (I know, if the timer fails it'll be a pain.) More on that tomorrow.
Most of the walls are finished. Need to finish 1 corner, install 2 doors, and run wiring & insulation on the final side.
I should be able to run plumbing and start work on the room interiors this weekend. Probably ready for a test run by Monday. So far the ventilation is kicking ass, and the sound-proofing absolutely is amazing... if I must say so myself.
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It would be pretty sweet if you installed a constant power outlet on the front of the box and had a short 110 trigger power cord on it so the timer could be right there but also easily replaced. It seems like timers fail way more often than they should.
I found an article about how to build these boxes, but I'm still not sure about the relay that you used. Is this something that I can get on the same aisle as the breakers at Lowe's, or do I need to order them online?
Do you know anything time-delay relays? It seems like it would be really awesome to have a way to deal with a power flicker when you aren't home to go turn the whole thing off for 10 minutes. While I've been both meticulous and successful in all of my wiring projects, I just don't really know anything about these electrical components.
I found an article about how to build these boxes, but I'm still not sure about the relay that you used. Is this something that I can get on the same aisle as the breakers at Lowe's, or do I need to order them online?
Do you know anything time-delay relays? It seems like it would be really awesome to have a way to deal with a power flicker when you aren't home to go turn the whole thing off for 10 minutes. While I've been both meticulous and successful in all of my wiring projects, I just don't really know anything about these electrical components.
ooga booga
Member
Online, or check with your local Grainger or electrical supply store (this is one of the few times the Yellow Pages comes in handy).
Time-delay relays are also the way to go if you really have multiple lights, but in my setup I opted not to go with them. Ideally I'd have maybe 2 lights come on at a time, maybe 30-60 seconds apart.
Time-delay relays are also the way to go if you really have multiple lights, but in my setup I opted not to go with them. Ideally I'd have maybe 2 lights come on at a time, maybe 30-60 seconds apart.
ooga booga
Member
This should be easy as cake...
Here's the thing... I could install an outlet on the front panel so that the timer both plugs into it, and a small hole next to it where the trigger cable feeds into the relay. But naaahh... I guess tomorrow I'm gonna look for a 2.5" or so hole saw. If I can't, here comes the Dremel.
Oh well, if this timer breaks and I can't find a similar one then I'll just patch up the front panel hole and use an external timer or something. These exact same timer cores are very common, re-packaged and re-branded under many brands, so it shouldn't be difficult.
Here's the thing... I could install an outlet on the front panel so that the timer both plugs into it, and a small hole next to it where the trigger cable feeds into the relay. But naaahh... I guess tomorrow I'm gonna look for a 2.5" or so hole saw. If I can't, here comes the Dremel.
Oh well, if this timer breaks and I can't find a similar one then I'll just patch up the front panel hole and use an external timer or something. These exact same timer cores are very common, re-packaged and re-branded under many brands, so it shouldn't be difficult.
ooga booga
Member
That's the truth, LW. The reason I'm putting so much resources into this room is that there's hope it'll last for a while. I'm certainly not expecting to or anticipating on tearing it down after a run or two, and hopefully it'll work out that way.
It's about time to wake & bake, Home Depot's gonna be open soon.
It's about time to wake & bake, Home Depot's gonna be open soon.
AndreNicky
Member
The room seems to be rolling along nicely, keep up the good work!
ooga booga
Member
Thanks Andre. I'm up early, rather than the usual 1-2pm, and feeling extra motivated to pound in a lot of work. But then again I say that every day and end up only putting in a couple of hours...
Anyways today's goal is to install plumbing. I haven't exactly finalized how I'm going to do this, yet, but I do know that I have a low height limit to work with and that I need drainage. I'm thinking of going with a small, shallow reservoir of sorts (whether Rubbermaid, pond liner DIY, or plastic hydro reservoir) that's sitting on the floor plumbed by PVC pipes also running along the floor. This reservoir will probably be monitored and drained by running the pump manually at first, but eventually I'd like to put in a $50 reservoir level monitor and have it run the drain pump automatically. The reason I need a pump and reservoir is that there is no floor drain or anything that I can use gravity to drain with.
I think I'm going to flip the Light Rail around 90 degrees, and use 2 bars instead of 3 to mount 6 lights, like this:
Kinda sick of waiting on that back-ordered Add-A-Bar + rail, not that I'm exactly ready to put it in use or anything...
Plus I think given the dimensions, it'll be better for ductwork and light coverage in the room.
Anyways today's goal is to install plumbing. I haven't exactly finalized how I'm going to do this, yet, but I do know that I have a low height limit to work with and that I need drainage. I'm thinking of going with a small, shallow reservoir of sorts (whether Rubbermaid, pond liner DIY, or plastic hydro reservoir) that's sitting on the floor plumbed by PVC pipes also running along the floor. This reservoir will probably be monitored and drained by running the pump manually at first, but eventually I'd like to put in a $50 reservoir level monitor and have it run the drain pump automatically. The reason I need a pump and reservoir is that there is no floor drain or anything that I can use gravity to drain with.
I think I'm going to flip the Light Rail around 90 degrees, and use 2 bars instead of 3 to mount 6 lights, like this:
Kinda sick of waiting on that back-ordered Add-A-Bar + rail, not that I'm exactly ready to put it in use or anything...
Plus I think given the dimensions, it'll be better for ductwork and light coverage in the room.
M
moses224
Just make sure the bar can handle the weight of 3. Im not two familiar with movers but seems like allot of weight on one bar aside from that man im loovin the thread
ooga booga
Member
The bar can definitely handle the weight, and putting 3 on one bar is really no different than 2, since the middle is supported directly under the trolley & rail. It's advertised from the factory to be able to handle 1-3 lights per bar, so 4-6 lights for 1 Add-A-Bar, and 6-9 lights for 2 Add-A-Bar's. They don't recommend doing more than 9 due to weight issues, although on a well balanced system, or with lighter hoods (like the all-aluminum SilverStar's, or possibly just non-aircooled batwings) it could easily go to 20+ lights off one motor.
i nominate ooga for the icmag "mcgyver" award of the year.......
ooga booga
Member
Here we go...
ooga booga
Member
Getting darker and darker...
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