Whats wrong with my plant.

[SquallRealm]

Can't figure it out. Does it look like anything any of you have seen before?

 

[SquallRealm]

Help its getting worse.

 

[SquallRealm]

its looking to me Mg Deficiency but I don't understand why.
I use tap water, tds of 300ppm.
I added 1tbs of big bloom per gallon.
The PH is ~6.4 and I test run off every time.

I plan on doing a foliar feed of epsom salt.
Does anyone concur?

 

[HeadyPete]

Not mg def - looks like lockout from overfeeding...all those burnt tips

What exactly are you feeding?

Please fill out the form for more info

 

[mexilandrace]

whole plant pictures in addition to leaf close ups help alot

 

[SquallRealm]

Not feeding it anything at the moment,
It was only 1tbs of big bloom to a gallon.

How long has this problem been going on? 2 days
What STRAIN are you growing? Nirvana White Widow
What was the establishing technique? (seed or clone?) clone
What is the age of your plants? 3 weeks
How Tall are the plants? 6"
What PHASE (seedling, vegetative or flower) are the plants in? Veg
What Technique are you using? (SOG, SCROG etc) SOG
What size pots are you using? (Include how many subjects to pot) 16oz bottle
What substrate/medium are you using? What brand of soil mixture are you using? (percentage of perlite, vermiculite...etc?) Fox Farms Ocean Forest, 25% perlite, 25% potting soil

What Nutrient's are you using?How much of each with how much water? How Often? *Knowing the brand is very helpful*
Fox Farms Big Bloom. 1 tbs to a gallon.
What is the TDS/EC/PPM of your nutrients used? 300ppm know
What is the pH of the "RUN-OFF"? 6.4
What method of pH test was administered? Using Strips? pH pen? Drops
How often are you watering? every 3 days
When was your last feeding and how often are you feeding? 2 days ago, everytime
What size bulb are you using? 6x 26 watt daylight cfls
What is the distance to the canopy? 5 inches away
What is your RH Factor? (Relative Humidity)50
What is the canopy temperature? 70F 3+ -
What is the Day/Night Temp? (Include fluctuation range) night it goes down to 70F, day 78F
What is the current Air Flow? (cfm etc.) Exhaust and intake are both ~50CFM
Is the fan blowing directly at plants? No
Is the grow substrate constantly wet or moist? I dont understand this, I wait for it to dry then I water
Is your water HARD or SOFT? 300ppm
What water are you using? Reverse Osmosis (RO)? Tap? Bottled? Well water? Distilled? Mineral Water? Tap
Has plant been recently pruned, cloned or pinched? No
Have any pest chemicals been used? If so what and when? No
Are plant's infected with pest's? No

 

[SquallRealm]

Heres what it says about MG Def

Practical Stuff: Marijuana uses a lot of magnesium and deficiencies are common, especially in acidic (pH below 7.0) soils. Adding dolomite lime to acidic potting soils before planting will stabilize PH, plus add magnesium and calcium to the soil. Add Epsom salts with each watering to correct magnesium deficiencies if no dolomite was added when planting.

Technical Stuff: Magnesium is found as a central atom in every chlorophyll molecule and is essential to the absorption of light energy. Magnesium aids in the utilization of nutrients. It also neutralizes soil acids and toxic compounds produced by the plant.

Deficiency: Magnesium deficiency is common idoors. Lower and later middle leaves develop yellow patches between darker green veins and rusty brown spots appear on leaf margins, tips and between veins as deficiency progresses. The brownish leaf tips usually curl upward before dying. The entire plant could discolor in a few weeks and if severe turn a yellow/whitish tinge before brownig and dying. A minor deficiency causes little or no problems with growth. However, minor deficiencies escalate and cause a diminished harvest, as flowering progresses.

Most often magnesium is in the soil but unavailable to the plant because the root environment is too wet and cold or acidic and cold. Magnesium is also bound in the soild if there is an excess of potassium ammonia (nitrogen) and calcium (carbonate). Small root systems are also unable to take in enough magnesium so supply heavy demand. A high EC slows water evaporation and will also diminish magnesium availability.

Progression of deficiency symptoms at a glance:

- No deficiency symptoms are visible during the first 3-4 weeks.
- The 4th - 6th week of growth first signs of deficiency appear. Interveinal yellowing and irregular rust-brown spots appear on older and middle-age leaves. Younger leaves remain healthy.
- Leaf tips turn brown and curl upwards as defiency progresses.
- Rust-brown spots multiply and interveinal yellowing increases.
- Rust-brown spots and yellowing progress from the bottom to the top of the entire plant.
- Youngest leaves develop rust-colored spots and inverveinal yellowing.
- Leaves dry and die in extreme cases.

Treat Deficiency: by watering with two teaspoons of Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) per gallon of water. For fastest results, spray foliage with a 2 percent solution of Epsom salts. If the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant, it will green-up there first. In 4-6days, it will start moving down the plant, turning lower leaves progressively greener. Continue regular watering schedule with Epsom salts added until symptoms totally disappear. Adding Epsom salts regularly is not necessary when fertilizer contains available magnesium. Another option is to apply magnesium sulfate monohydrate in place of Epsom salts. Add fine dolomite lime to soil and soiless mix to add a consistent supply of both calcium and magnesium over the long term. Always use the finest dolomite available.

Control the room and root zone temperatures, humidity, pH and EC of the nutrient solution. Keep root zone and nutrient solution 70-75 degrees. Keep ambient air temperature at 75 degrees day and 65 degrees at night. Use a complete fertilizer with an adequate amount of magnesium. Keep soil pH above 6.5, keep hydroponic pH above 5.5, and lower high EC for a week.

Extra magnesium in soil is generally not harmful but can inhibit calcium uptake. Signs of excess magnesium are desribed below.

Toxicity: Magnesium toxicity is rare and difficult to discern with the naked eye. If extrememly toxic, magnesium develops a conflict with other fertilizer ions, usually calcium, especially in hydroponic nutrient solutions. Toxic buildup of magnesium in soils that are able to grow marijuana is uncommon.

Pic of Mg Def

 

[HeadyPete]

Mag def leaves have yellowing but keep green veins, also the edges curl upward....your burnt tips and yellowed new growth are a giveaway to excessive feeding....this can mimic the look of mag def, but the other leaves farther along show it is not.

1. Your tap water is pretty high in ppm and will cause issues...these are salts in the water.

2. Your soil has nutes in it already. FF is too hot for clones and seedlings. What brrand exactly is the other potting soil you used?

3. Your plants are young and under low light, you must reduce nute use.

4. What is the ph of the solution going in?

5. You cannot read organic nutes with a ppm meter like you can hydro nutes. The pen reads ec from the amount of salts in the water and organics do not read this way.

This photo from your gallery (if it is the same plant or group) tells me you are overfeeding (at least that FF soil is too hot for clones or seedlings):

 

[HeadyPete]

notice the upcurled edges in the pic you posted? I don't see any of that on your plant.

 

[SquallRealm]

Its actually same plant, the way I solved that problem was to put it in a new mix (ffof 25% potting soil, 25% perlite)
It thrived, and the whole time it thrived I was watering it with big bloom since day one. can you explain why all of sudden it wants to just appear like that?
Because if you look up there it says
"No deficiency symptoms are visible during the first 3-4 weeks."
and as luck would have it, its week 3.

 

[HeadyPete]

What is the potting soil you mixed with the FF?

Why are you giving Big Bloom to a vegging plant?

Overnute problems happen over time with watering. Your plant was fine until the nutes in the soil start to become liberated by watering.

 

[tree&leaf]

Can't figure it out. Does it look like anything any of you have seen before?

I agree with the other poster in this thread - your plant is over-fertilised. Why are you feeding Big Bloom in veg?

My suggestion is to repot your plant into a proper plant pot with proper drainage holes. No need to scrimp on plant pots - they're cheap enough. I'd suggest a 2-3L pot (1 gallon) at this stage.

Then just feed it plain tap water until you're ready to repot into final pots for flowering.

Far easier to simply reset things now and get back to allowing the plant to simply take what it needs from the soil than trying to correct an over-fertilisation problem. Your leaves won't improve either, but they shouldn't get any worse.

 

[SquallRealm]

Just pathmark potting soil, to make FFOF less hot.
Its written on schedule to give Big bloom on first week. 2 tbs, I give them 1.

 

[SquallRealm]

I can not re-pot because thats the pot I plan to flower in. (See DrBud Method) and no room in the cab for anything bigger.

So what do u guys suggest, flush with normal pH water?

 

[HeadyPete]

You are sure there are no nutes in that Pathmark soil? Read the bag carefully. If there is time release nutes in it then the more you water, the more nutes will be released and the more burn you will have.

Do not follow the manufacturer's schedule. They are growing under optimum conditions, under big lights and your CFL grow doesn't compare.

The plant is telling you that the grow sched is too much.

Please answer all the ??? I ask so I don't have to ask again if you want help.

Why Big Bloom?

Between the FFOF, the Big bloom and the high ppm tap water, this adds up to too much food.

 

[SquallRealm]

1. Def no nutes in it. Not a word about nutes on the bag.

2. I don't understand, I answered you, it says on the schedule that you start on first week using 2 tbs's. I used 1 which is 1/2 recommended dose. It wasn't hurting the plant, in fact it was thriving. Big Bloom is organic I didn't think it could hurt me in a big way.

 

[HeadyPete]

I see now. The Bloom is to give P for root growth. So why no Grow Big?

Anyway it is quite clear that it is hurting the plant. Again, the lights used by these manufacturers in their test gardens are most likely 1Ks in banks and a plant grown under those can take a lot more food than yours under cfl. Plants use the light energy combined with ferts to grow. More light, faster metabolism, more food needed.

 

[mysta177]

I agree you have to much nutes. Good advice HP!
In that mix your running OVERWATER will make your plant look like all sorts of shit are wrong with it its a pretty hot mix.

 

[SquallRealm]

Here they are right now.
I notice that leaves are starting to curl upward.


What to do?

I watered them with plain pHed water last night.

 

[tree&leaf]

What to do?

I've already told you the best thing to do - repot them, but you've already dismissed that as being 'inconvenient'. There's nothing else you can do apart from flushing and that can cause more problems that it solves.

The damage has already been done - you're into damage limitation now and the best way is to repot them!

I assume those pots they're in have adequate drainage holes?