ooga booga!! 6 lights, sealed & moving coco cave!!

[ooga booga]

This is the tileboard that I'm so excited about. Looks glossy in person.



It's not tacked on yet. Won't start that 'til I build the fan mount and get both fans running.

 

[yamaha_1fan]

Insulation is going up (R-13).

I would never be able to work in a mess like that

I know you are in no hurry as you dont have pants yet but dont drag ass too long. You want to give that room a test drive BEFORE you get plants. Make sure temps stay in check, no plumbing leaks, etc etc.

 

[ooga booga]

I would never be able to work in a mess like that

I know you are in no hurry as you dont have pants yet but dont drag ass too long. You want to give that room a test drive BEFORE you get plants. Make sure temps stay in check, no plumbing leaks, etc etc.

I do have pants! Just waiting on the clones, that's all!

Yeah, it's very messy here but I'm a little restricted on space and I'm a lazy fuck. It's near impossible to move around w/o stepping on shit. It's getting done, though. Got one piece of tileboard mounted w/ liquid nails & screws. This stuff smells like burnt plastic (duh) when cutting it, no more indoors cutting.



Also got one of the fans mounted using some DIY bolt rods:



The amount of air being pumped is absolutely amazing... these mofos are baaad!



I can't imagine what it'll sound like with:

• 2 x 8" Vortex
• 6" Vortex
• 12" Vortex
• 5 x 16" wall-mount oscillating

 

[dongle69]

Are you pushing air through the lights?
I'm trying to decide between pushing with the fans close to the lights, or pulling with the fans further from the lights.

 

[ooga booga]

Although I'm no fan of pulling hot air through the fans, I wasn't left with much of a choice considering the dimensions of the room & the location of the air intake / exhaust. If that wasn't enough of a reason, pushing air through flexible ducting seems like a disaster with light movers. I plan on using insulated, rigid ducting when and where I can, but two locations I probably won't be able to use it are between the hood & intake port, and hood & fan. I'm not so worried about the length between hood & intake port since it will always be cool air running through it, but the part between the hood & fan will be the most exposed. Just little details that won't matter that much in practice, but pointing them out because that's what this thread is about.

 

[DIGITALHIPPY]

looking real good. i like that frame for the LR5.

 

[tobaaaac]

I like the way you're hanging the a/c. Are you going to pull heat off of the back of it with a fan? Sorry if you already said. I don't think I saw that?

The air-cooled ballast box is a good idea too. I'm going to use that when I move.

 

[RedReign]

Looking good, OB. Building a nice room is a lot of work, but worth the effort.

The harvest from your last room looked bomb. Can't wait to see what you pull from this room.

 

[ooga booga]

looking real good. i like that frame for the LR5.

You mean the bars? Yeah, I'm really digging the rugged, heavy-duty design of the LR5 vs. the LR3.5. The bars come with the LR5 system, it's just the aluminum angle DIY RoboStik's that I added myself. Still might get myself a 3.5 for a 1-light veg room in the future.

I like the way you're hanging the a/c. Are you going to pull heat off of the back of it with a fan? Sorry if you already said. I don't think I saw that?

The air-cooled ballast box is a good idea too. I'm going to use that when I move.

I had originally thought about building an enclosure for the A/C, which would be ducted to the ballast enclosure, hooked into a 6" inline fan. Now I'm thinking that might be unnecessary, and to instead just suck the hot air from the top of the small, narrow area with the 6". If that doesn't work well, I'll still build an enclosure.

Looking good, OB. Building a nice room is a lot of work, but worth the effort.

The harvest from your last room looked bomb. Can't wait to see what you pull from this room.

Thank you very much; coming from someone like yourself, it means a ton!

How'd you find out who I am?

 

[ooga booga]

This 4x8 piece of the wall took me over an hour to install. Getting the right size hole cut at the right place, then installing the fan collar with very little room to work with. But it's done. You can tell the wall to the left (with the A/C hole) isn't quite square. That's what you get when you get stoner nerds with zero construction experience to build something: Measure or guesstimate once, cut as many times as necessary to force the job.



This is typically what's involved in installing a wall. Usually a ~30 minute process per wall, incl. measuring, cutting, gluing, leveling, screwing. Keep in mind that 100% of the work is done solo with no outside help.

Apply glue:



Measure vertical level (sorta a stud finder function) and horizontal levels, and install screws:



All done:

 

[Budweiser13]

Looking pro ooga please keep the updates coming gonna be a nice room...

 

[ooga booga]

14,500 BTU A/C mounted!

 

[Lagertester]

LOOKING real good OB now keep at it! Back away from the bong sir back away!

I need to go back and look again how your gonna cool that room with the ac heat in.

I have a similier room. I have all the light heat blowing in there and the Ac heat. I have a 12 in can fan on top of a 60" can filter. The room temps in there get up to 115 degrees depending on how much co2 I am pushing. In the summer I vant the light heat outside but in the winter I remove that elbow and allow the heat into the AC room. All that heat is pushed upstairs and heats my Wood Shop. Works very well.

Keep up the good work. I love building rooms!

 

[Lagertester]

Damm IT!!!!

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to ooga booga again.

 

[ooga booga]

What I meant by the "room" is actually the narrow strip of space next to the flowering box; the space was divided up into a something like 85%/15% split more or less, and that 15% split is what will house:

• 6 - 1000w ballasts
• 1 - 400w ballast
• 1 - 14500 BTU A/C heat
• Mother tent
• 3 - 55gal drums

At first I was going to build an enclosure around the A/C and also the ballasts, fit them with 6" flanges, and duct them to a 6" Vortex exhausting out that 6" hole next to the 12" hole. But now I'm thinking, since the fan is mounted at the top anyways, I might as well not build enclosures and allow the fan to suck out heat from the small area and see how well that works. There is plenty of cool incoming air available coming in from the ceiling, from a different part of the building.

I'll mount the fan & ballasts later today to illustrate what I'm talking about. Need to make a small modification to the fan mount to get it on there. I got the wrong size bolts so I'll have to go back to Home Depot (yet again) to get replacements. At first I was planning on having the ballasts sit on a shelf on the wall, but now I'm thinking of mounting them directly onto the wall (they have a handle built & designed for this). I'm thinking having them on their rubber feet won't hurt, though, and being able to take the covers off while on the shelf (to keep the capacitors cooler) is probably a nice feature.

Today I'm not sure how much I'll get accomplished, gotta run some errands, do some more shopping (never stops!) and maybe cut clones.

 

[Lagertester]

Thats alotta heat dude! Run that ac for a few and see what temps you get in that space. I dont think a 6in exhaust is gonna cut it. Like I said I got a 12 in and it gets hot in there

 

[ooga booga]

Yeah, I'll play it by ear. I'll test-fire the room for 48 hours at 24/0 to check the environmental readings. But that isn't gonna happen until late in the week, when the room is mostly finished and ready to run.

I'm still unsure where to put this friggin scrubber, besides on the floor. I'm not so comfortable having it stand up on the floor due to the 10" or so clearance it has above it, 'til it hits the ceiling. (I'll be putting in a foam "ceiling" to line the wooden one, later.) Hanging it isn't exactly easy either, at 150lbs. I had one hell of a time getting this A/C in its place, I can't even imagine trying to get this filter hung even if progressively using a chain jack or something.

Next time, I'm paying the extra money and getting a GH DFS9 or an equivalent Mountain Air model. 50lbs lighter and equal or better performance?

 

[FrankRizzo]

I'm not sure what the ceiling is made out of, but you could use 2-3 pulleys and get that thing hung by yourself I would think. One on either end and one in the middle. I'll try to find a picture of the type of thing I'm talking about. Props for doing all this work yourself.

Edit-This is a bit more complicated than I was originally thinking but you get the idea.

 

[ooga booga]

Thanks Frank! I will give that a shot, hadn't thought of an actual pulley, only one of those chain jack things that they sell at Home Depot (for tightening chains around truck loads, etc) and moving it up maybe 2-3 links at a time.

I'm liking the idea of using a heavy-duty nylon strap or some other form of flat strap material rather than something like a chain that can dig into and dent the filter (keep in mind it's 150lbs). Where can I find these straps w/ buckle and eye-hook connection and all that so I can hang it? Home Depot didn't seem to have what I wanted...

The actual ceiling material isn't made of much, but it's the ceiling/floor joists that I'm going to put an eye-hook nut, bolt & washers into (horizontally). Probably 6 points for 3 straps, I'm not sure. The joists are made of... looks like 2x10 or 2x12? In this space, there are wires, pipes, etc. (No insulation, however.) These "channels" created by the joists in the ceiling are also what I use to draw in cool air from a different part of the building. This is also one of the reasons on why I'm interested in sealing the ceiling (hehehe, sounds cool ).

 

[FrankRizzo]

I'm not sure how wide the strapping would need to be, but maybe you could use the stuff they make to strap water heaters down with. I think it's about an inch wide. It has holes in it as well so it would be easy to get some hooks connected to it. If you need something even wider I would look into using nylon tie down straps somehow. Good luck.