Mold is worse on ealry finishers not later ones.

[hamstring]

I am at 42 deg north Midwest US and I wanted to bring up a facet of growing and drying that differs greatly form what I have read.

Although many others would disagree I have much more mold problems with the early finishers because it is more humid and warm at end of August than say Oct 7th. I find the cooler weather (low 50 -mid 40s deg F) doesn’t promote mold as much. I have yet to have many problems with bud that finishes after September 31st.

The worst mold problems for my climate comes from the early finishers because they start flowering mid July when humidity and warmth are abundant. The same goes for drying outdoors. If it is colder weather 50 deg and below it takes much longer to dry but very little problems with mold. Although finding dry days in October are not easy.

I wanted others input because this seams to go against the norm of what I hear about harvesting later strains but it could be that growers in the warmer climates have the humidity and warmth in the fall months.

 

[Greens]

Hey hamstring,

I've actually noticed the opposite. None of the strains that finish before early September ever get any rot/mold for me. The only stuff that gets mold is the stuff that is left out after that. I think that might possibly be because the temperature rarely drops below the dew point before then. As soon as September comes around, the plants are soaking each morning from the dew and that's usually when it becomes more rainy outside as well (and so cool it takes a long time for the buds to dry off again). Of course, our climates are different because I'm further north.

This year, I actually had very little mold overall. A few spots here and there on the later stuff and that's it.

Greens

 

[Gunnarguchi]

i second to much of your words
me pleasant surprise this year against mold was the late finishing Afghans

 

[Fingaz2]

Mould usually coincides (surprise surprise) with the mushroom season. Warm nights are the clue, warm overnight rain or fog can be worse than cold hard rain.

 

[Guest]

Hey hamstring.

I guess Ill split the difference between you and greens. I agree with you to some extent in that there is a strain of indica that gets bred into other strains that finishes mid to late sept that is very susceptable to m ould. Its the plant that's in Dr. A's B BXNL and a bunch of other strains. The minute I see a finish date of mid to late sept, I know that indica is present and the strain will mould.

With that exception in mind, I agree with greens. I seldom have mould until very late sept/early oct or later and Im not far south from you hamstring. My august sept humidity runs 60% through the day and 90% at night. Only when I get ahold of that one affie influence do I see mould early.


Really, I pay attention to bud structure and density and leaf placement in relation to the calyxes. Strains with a low ratio of leaf/calyxes mould easily while Strains with very little trim work and a high calyx to leaf ratio usually handle mould a little better. When the calyxes are hidden in tight quarters with much leaf material do you get the problem.

Maybe someone else will disagree with all of us..

 

[zielonylasss]

Hey Hamstring, I have the same observations this year... But... it all depends on weather IMO it all depends on year... This year we had very ugly september. A lot of rains, still very high humidity, low temps... My earlier plants, which had already quite dense buds were infected by mold. Later strains didn't coutch it. And later ones finished without that problems in october...
That is the reason I want to try next year something late... But... I also take into consideration that if weather will be bad I'll not get a chance to harvest them mature...
Sooo... one or two gardens with early finishers, next one with something little bit late...

Here in PL this year is the longest season outdoor I remember...

 

[techattack]

i already found some bud calix with fungus, and the calix of the pre-flowers of some plants with fungus too. it is a shitty year for outdoors, i still have plants outdoor, its cold here, thats good, warm nights are better for fungus. i hope i can let the plants do the cycle well, otherwise i will have to cut, i'm controlling the plants seeking every flower for fungus, its a hard work..

 

[hamstring]

Hey everyone thanks for the replies.

Greens
Your input is much appreciated because of your experience with the early finishers. Not sure why I am experience this phenomena may have something to do with the fact that I tend to not watch the early finishers as closely as I do the later ones due to weather, hunters etc. I will have more GG outdoors next year and will watch closely.

Gunnarguchi
Thanks for chiming in and congrats on the mold free affies.

Fingaz2
I really think you have a good point there the warmer nights must have something to do with it. Mushroom season around me is May but temps and moisture have to be right.

Silver Back

Quote"Really, I pay attention to bud structure and density and leaf placement in relation to the calyxes. Strains with a low ratio of leaf/calyxes mould easily while Strains with very little trim work and a high calyx to leaf ratio usually handle mould a little better. When the calyxes are hidden in tight quarters with much leaf material do you get the problem."

I agree here for sure the higher leaf ratio is a mold magnet for sure. Strain selection makes a big difference. I need to pay closer attention to this because looking back there where big differences in the early strains as far as mold susceptibility I don’t want to make a blanket conclusion need to make more specific observations.

Zielonylass
You hit it on the head we had a ton of moisture this year so not a good year for mold. Many other factors for sure air flow at your patch, amount of dead ground cover , strain selection its never one thing but the temps and moisture are key.

Techattack
Still bud out there good for you bro nice long season. Although even at 42 deg north we had our first real hard frost just days ago but you cant hang your hat or your buds on it every year.

 

[Bob Jones]

Much the same here, the plants finishing in early/mid September had a LOT of mold problems and some had to be harvested early. The plants I just finished chopping had virtually zero mold problems.

Two possible explanations. Here in western Oregon we had quite a bit of rain in September and October has been dry and sunny until today. I'm sure that's a factor.

Second, the early finishers have more Indica in them, while the late finishers were primarily sativa (A11xThai cross). Indicas tend to come from very dry climates, while sativas come from wetter climates, they may be more adapted to dealing with the rain during budding.

Due to the weather issue can't say for sure, but I have noticed what you're saying over the past years.

 

[glock23]

Bob, October's been nice and dry for me too. Where did you get that A11 x Thai from? Sounds good! I find sativas work better for me too.

 

[hamstring]

Bob
Thanks for the reply.
I know there are many factors concerning mold but I have experienced what your talking about but as other have said so many factors to consider before making blanket statement about mold but that’s what the forum is for, open discussion.

Oregon grower, have you had the time to look at any of Back Country’s threads?

 

[THC123]

Hi , living in northern europe i always have to doi with mould.

In the GH it's ok(mould is controllableà)

But outside i also always have lots of mould.


That's why i give you 2 words--> FRISIAN DEW

Where i live(holland) it finished end of september and i only lost a few buds to mould almost nothing , the plant yields good and the taste is very good , the effect is also good , nothing groundbreaking but good.

I managed to harvest her ripe and almost mould less

 

[hamstring]

THC123
Thanks for the input. Frisian Dew sounds like a good strain can you give a description as to its bud structure.

Running with Silver Backs observations above about, "Strains with a low ratio of leaf/calyxes mould easily while Strains with very little trim work and a high calyx to leaf ratio usually handle mould a little better. When the calyxes are hidden in tight quarters with much leaf material do you get the problem."

Does this strain have the low leaf to calyex ratio that tends deter mold better?

 

[THC123]

Hard big buds , AND mould resistant(lost maybe 1-2%)

 

[baccas125]

Sovran fungacide will cure everyone problems its the best stuff ever. It is made my BASF chemicals and is used in comercial grape growing.

 

[hamstring]

THC 123
very nice pics and follows the point Silver back made. Thanks for the pics and input mold has been hard on the DO growers this year and knowledge is power.

Baccas125
I have used both Serin and Green Cure but not Sovran any details on it.

How safe?
When to use?
Is it preventative or after the fact?
How often to use?
Most important are your actual experiences. When you used it was it before you saw mold or after?

 

[baccas125]

http://www.agproducts.basf.com/products/Sovran-Fungicide/Sovran-Fungicide.asp


link to BASF web page
I have found this to be a good cure and a good preventative funigacide. It is systematic and moves threw the leaves it work by stopping mitacondrial funtions of most funigas preventing them from processing any enegry and dying.



Sovran Fungicide
Effective solutions for a wide variety of diseases
Sovran® fungicide offers grape, pome fruit and pecan growers outstanding control at a great value. Sovran excels in control of powery mildew, botrytis, scab, and phomopsis, plus many other diseases. Its Surface Systemic Activity® provides more complete coverage of the plant, protecting all leaf surfaces from disease infestation. And Sovran can serve as a valuable tool in resistance management.

I bought a one pound can of this powder for aprox 120 dollars and it is enuff to spray aprox 40 acres of grapes once.

 

[That Girl]

THC123,How many plants of FD did you grow out?

The hubby and I grew some FD and noticed at least two different phenos, one very air buds, one more compact and denser. The denser one is one to run again, the airy one however, not so much. And both of them if I do remember correctly got hit decently with mold. We used greencure, and it helped, but it would have helped more if we were able to apply it more frequently around rains and such.


That Girl

 

[THC123]

I grew 6

I had 4 different phenos. But they all had dense buds.

i had a dark purple one , a yellow oone with purple tinges , and then 2 greem/purple types.


Harvest time varies from 20september to 15 october.

On the green+purple pheno i did enbcounbter some mould in the main Cola. For the rest it was ok.

I always start removing the big leaves 1-2 weeks prior to harvest for extra air and light

Sovran fungacide will cure everyone problems its the best stuff ever. It is made my BASF chemicals and is used in comercial grape growing.

Grapes have a skin , u can wash off the fungiciude , but Buds are like sponges.

I don't EVER spray anything when my plants are flowering. It's just not healthy

 

[baccas125]

You cant wash off Sovran it is systematic, its inside of leaf tissue. It will last aprox 21 days inside leaf tissue then break down. I wouldnt spray mature plants but i think you would be safe spraying up to the 3rd week of flower maybe.