prolificgrower
Member
i picked up some hydrogen peroxide solution at the store today how uch should i add to a gallon?
hydrogen peroxide?
- Thread starter prolificgrower
- Start date
C
CT Guy
what's it for? cleaning? what percentage is it?
prolificgrower
Member
3% and its first aid use
C
CT Guy
is it for cleaning? Most people who i know that use hydrogen peroxide do so to clean compost tea brewers. Typically it's industrial strength and then they dilute it to a 10% solution. Another option is Oxyclean, that works well too.
prolificgrower
Member
i was just gunna add it the water
prolificgrower
Member
haha got it do not add to water lol sorry to sound like such a noob here just bin hearing about it around the forum im rumming 3 150 hps in 2 diff cabs very stealth using FFOF with lime and peace of mind nutes are NH seaweed and fish/NH fish emulsion and organic molasses (750mg pottassium)everythings going well and on sched. im working on a new cab very stealth no light no noise aquariium set up ill post pics as soon as the first harvest comes in im taking plenty of pics he he i just never added HP before so thought ide ask
C
CT Guy
The hydrogen peroxide is a strong anti-microbial (hence why it's so great for cleaning brewers). However, when growing using organic methods, it the beneficial aerobic biology that cycles the nutrients for the plant and in a sense "fertilizes" the plant. Therefore, adding something like hydrogen peroxide, even in low concentrations will have a counter effect on your soil. Now, there are instances where you may want to use something like vinegar to kill off a really bad disease outbreak, but you'd need to follow this with an application of beneficial biology (compost tea), and this is only when all other methods fail you.
prolificgrower
Member
thanks for the info thats what i needed to know
Hello all,
Being the inquistive soul that I am,
I googled and I found a few articles that suggest that H2O2 was a benifit.
Here are the two articles that I have read so far but it seems that we may have an application.
I understand that a high doses will kill the mircokiddies so I just wanted to expand this idea some.
My reasons for concern is that I am certain I have too little perlite in my re-used soil(less?) mix. I never gave it much thought untill the other day when I was perparing for some rooted cutting. So, I am wondering if I am getting enough O2 to the roots which the last few grows have been poor.
http://educate-yourself.org/cancer/benefitsofhydrogenperozide17jul03.shtml
http://www.ars.usda.gov/research/publications/publications.htm?SEQ_NO_115=207538
minds_I
Being the inquistive soul that I am,
I googled and I found a few articles that suggest that H2O2 was a benifit.
Here are the two articles that I have read so far but it seems that we may have an application.
I understand that a high doses will kill the mircokiddies so I just wanted to expand this idea some.
My reasons for concern is that I am certain I have too little perlite in my re-used soil(less?) mix. I never gave it much thought untill the other day when I was perparing for some rooted cutting. So, I am wondering if I am getting enough O2 to the roots which the last few grows have been poor.
http://educate-yourself.org/cancer/benefitsofhydrogenperozide17jul03.shtml
http://www.ars.usda.gov/research/publications/publications.htm?SEQ_NO_115=207538
minds_I
Hello all,
Toodles, why then water with rainwater?
Agreed that concentration is crucial, but then so are fert concentrations.
As a test I used a ratio of 4cc/l of H2O2 to plain water last night. This afternoon it did not look at all troubled. I think I may have even noticed a perkier stature. Of course more time will tell.
And, as to the killing of the microkiddies....I am curious as to what ratio of mortailty to best recovery. I mean, we only bubble the buckets for what 24-72 hours and have established the microkiddies, given food already in the soil and O2 and time, they should recover quickly.
But if they are decimated then of course poplutaion recovery would be longer I would think.
Talk amoungst yourselves
minds_I
Toodles, why then water with rainwater?
Agreed that concentration is crucial, but then so are fert concentrations.
As a test I used a ratio of 4cc/l of H2O2 to plain water last night. This afternoon it did not look at all troubled. I think I may have even noticed a perkier stature. Of course more time will tell.
And, as to the killing of the microkiddies....I am curious as to what ratio of mortailty to best recovery. I mean, we only bubble the buckets for what 24-72 hours and have established the microkiddies, given food already in the soil and O2 and time, they should recover quickly.
But if they are decimated then of course poplutaion recovery would be longer I would think.
Talk amoungst yourselves
minds_I
Last edited:
Hello all,
Its all good Toodles,
but there seems to be some interest in the agricultural industry...albeit minimal.
Google hygrogen peroxide crop irriagtion and have a look.
There may be some benefit....lets not be so quick to guano on the idea.
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/pepper/msg060037598337.html
Just a bit of info on H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide). It is a very common substance in nature. When plants become stressed the plant itself begins to generate H2O2 in small quantities to build its immune systen and strengthen itself.
When rain falls (particularly in thunderstorms) it produces a huge jump in growth of plants receiving its falling water. Why? Not because of the paltry anount of nitrogen it receives because we usually are using high nitrogen fertilizers anyway.
It is because the falling water vapor that contacts ozone absorbs the free oxygen molecule dropping the O3 (ozone) molecule to O2 and the water vapor then becomes H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) instead of H2O (water). We've all seen this example of natural plant growth and revitalization.
I use low percent H2O2 (.025 - .05%) in watering on a regular basis. The percentage is so low that it does not kill bacterias but strengthens the plant and its immune system so it can dedicate all its effort to growth and fruit.
The cautions from the hydroponics gardener earlier are right on target. As low as 1.5% can kill positive bacterias along with the bad. I do use H2O2 as a foliar spray for specific problems only. Leaves like to take in CO2 and expirate O2. Just like our sweat and waste byproducts, we want it off of us. Plants being living organisms like we are, need to get rid of their waste. If H2O2 is used on the leaves it will evaporate and be gone just like the rainwater does.
KEEP IN MIND though; 3% is a large dose of a VERY POWERFUL substance. While it helps the roots to be given a larger dose of O2 (3% is safe for root rot), the above ground part can be stunted if used too much. Use only to treat fungus' or pests for above ground uses. You may find that much less pesticide is necessary to treat a problem if one crops up.
A three percent solution is great for pre-treating soil before planting but if organic soils are being used you must wait to fertilize the soil until the soil dries out once or at least 72 hours. All bacteria will likely be destroyed, leaving an empty plate to start with. Nutrients and minerals are only minimally affected. Compost teas etc. can then be applied without being affected by the sterilizing treatment.
Getting H2O2 to the roots in low percentage quantities (one quarter to one half of one percent) is like having a regular thunderstorm watering system on your payroll. Undeniable proof of the value of high O2 presence at the roots is Aeroponics. The roots are intermittently sprayed with water and nutrients, but the roots are in air more than water. An approximate comparison of ambient partial pressure of oxygen (20% O2/80% nitrogen in our breathing air) at the roots is near 99% with Aeroponics, 50% with hydroponics (because of the large granular materials providing air spaces that are exposed to the roots) and only an approximate 20% O2 ambient partial pressure in soil reaching the roots.
Cloning is accelerated radically, growth is amazing in its early stages and in the flowering process because of the increased O2 level @ the roots (approx 5 times more O2 than with soil).
In short, H2O2 is a powerful tool if used properly; if overused or misused, it can be a negative.
Incidentally, just type in "Hydrogen peroxide 35" on google and you'll have numerous sources of FOOD GRADE H2O2 to choose from. If you want to remain organic with your use of H2O2 use only food grade certified liquid. I has no preservatives. The cost varies greatly so look around. Also Keep in mind that 35% hydrogen peroxide WILL easily and quickly kill a child or even an adult if ingested in a very painful manner I won't describe here. Skin contact can seriously burn and with high percentage levels spills on clothing can spontaneously combust into flames. Remember it is also used as rocket fuel in the space program and we all know what happened to the challenger.
In lowpercentage amounts it is very safe. It is often used as a toothpaste, wound cleaner, and has been reported to have cancer fighting uses. It is also regularly used as a spa or hot tub sanitizer in place of bromides or chlorine that have serious potential long term implications. A 3% solution if spilled on your clothes will likely turn them pink. So PLEASE keep your supply out of childrens reach and be very careful with it. Store it in an opaque container or in a dark upper cabinet since light will degrade it over time. Even a pint of 35% will last a lifetime for the average user unless you're commercial. One quarter of a teaspoon in one gallon of water gives a good regular watering dosage. Mix what you need fresh each use or at least cap the mixed water tightly to prevent degradation or evaporation.
Just be cautious and use it in small amounts, scrupulously recording your data and you'll find a wonderful organic safe pesticide and anti-fungal tool.
http://search.arrow.edu.au/main/res...niversity.+Primary+Industries+Research+Centre.
Inadequate oxygen concentration in the root zone is a constraint to plant performance particularly in heavy, compacted and/or saline soils. Sub-surface drip irrigation (SDI) offers a means of increasing oxygen to plant roots in such soils, provided irrigation water can be hyper-aerated or oxygenated. Hydrogen peroxide (HP) at the rate of 5 litre ha-l at the end of each irrigation cycle was injected through SDI tape to a field-grown zucchini (courgette) crop (Cucurbita pepo) on a saturated heavy clay soil in Queensland, A ustralia. Fruit yield, number and shoot weight increased by 25%o,29%o and 24% respectively due to HP treatment compared to the control. Two pot experiments with vegetable soybean (Glycine max) and cotton (Gossypium hirsutum) compared the effectiveness of HP and air injection using a Mazzeli air injector (a venturi), throughout the irrigation cycle in raising crop yield in a heavy clay soil kept at saturation or just under field capacity. Fresh pod yield ofvegetable soybean increased by 82-96%i n aeration treatments compared with the control. The yield increase was associated with more pods per plant and greater mean pod weight. Significantly higher above ground biomass and light interception were evident with aeration, irrespective of soil water treatment. Similarly cotton lint yield increased by 14-28% in aeration treatments compared with the control. The higher lint yield was associated with more squares and bolls per plant which accompanied greater above ground biomass and an increase in root mass, root length and soil respiration. Air injection and HP effected greater water use, but also brought about an enhancement of water use effrciency (WUE) for pod and lint yield, and increased leaf photosynthetic rate in both species but had no effect on transpiration rate and stomatal conductance per unit leaf area. Aeration-induced enhanced root function was arguably responsible for greater fruit set and yield in all three crops, while in vegetable soybean greater canopy cover, radiation interception and total vegetative biomass were responsible for additional yield benefit. Increased aeration of the root zone in heavy clay soils employing either air injection or HP proved beneficial to SDI irrigated crops, irrespective of the soil water conditions, and can add value to grower investments in SDI
minds_I
PS: with regard to the cyclic nature of the mocrobiology count in nature be all bad.
Perhaps we are focusing on creating too perfect of a environment by making sure we don't kill the microkiddes and there populations are in extreme or greater then maximum population counts. Perhaps the H2O2 in the rain is intended to reduce the population so that it can ramp-up again? Just a thought.
Its all good Toodles,
but there seems to be some interest in the agricultural industry...albeit minimal.
Google hygrogen peroxide crop irriagtion and have a look.
There may be some benefit....lets not be so quick to guano on the idea.
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/pepper/msg060037598337.html
Just a bit of info on H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide). It is a very common substance in nature. When plants become stressed the plant itself begins to generate H2O2 in small quantities to build its immune systen and strengthen itself.
When rain falls (particularly in thunderstorms) it produces a huge jump in growth of plants receiving its falling water. Why? Not because of the paltry anount of nitrogen it receives because we usually are using high nitrogen fertilizers anyway.
It is because the falling water vapor that contacts ozone absorbs the free oxygen molecule dropping the O3 (ozone) molecule to O2 and the water vapor then becomes H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) instead of H2O (water). We've all seen this example of natural plant growth and revitalization.
I use low percent H2O2 (.025 - .05%) in watering on a regular basis. The percentage is so low that it does not kill bacterias but strengthens the plant and its immune system so it can dedicate all its effort to growth and fruit.
The cautions from the hydroponics gardener earlier are right on target. As low as 1.5% can kill positive bacterias along with the bad. I do use H2O2 as a foliar spray for specific problems only. Leaves like to take in CO2 and expirate O2. Just like our sweat and waste byproducts, we want it off of us. Plants being living organisms like we are, need to get rid of their waste. If H2O2 is used on the leaves it will evaporate and be gone just like the rainwater does.
KEEP IN MIND though; 3% is a large dose of a VERY POWERFUL substance. While it helps the roots to be given a larger dose of O2 (3% is safe for root rot), the above ground part can be stunted if used too much. Use only to treat fungus' or pests for above ground uses. You may find that much less pesticide is necessary to treat a problem if one crops up.
A three percent solution is great for pre-treating soil before planting but if organic soils are being used you must wait to fertilize the soil until the soil dries out once or at least 72 hours. All bacteria will likely be destroyed, leaving an empty plate to start with. Nutrients and minerals are only minimally affected. Compost teas etc. can then be applied without being affected by the sterilizing treatment.
Getting H2O2 to the roots in low percentage quantities (one quarter to one half of one percent) is like having a regular thunderstorm watering system on your payroll. Undeniable proof of the value of high O2 presence at the roots is Aeroponics. The roots are intermittently sprayed with water and nutrients, but the roots are in air more than water. An approximate comparison of ambient partial pressure of oxygen (20% O2/80% nitrogen in our breathing air) at the roots is near 99% with Aeroponics, 50% with hydroponics (because of the large granular materials providing air spaces that are exposed to the roots) and only an approximate 20% O2 ambient partial pressure in soil reaching the roots.
Cloning is accelerated radically, growth is amazing in its early stages and in the flowering process because of the increased O2 level @ the roots (approx 5 times more O2 than with soil).
In short, H2O2 is a powerful tool if used properly; if overused or misused, it can be a negative.
Incidentally, just type in "Hydrogen peroxide 35" on google and you'll have numerous sources of FOOD GRADE H2O2 to choose from. If you want to remain organic with your use of H2O2 use only food grade certified liquid. I has no preservatives. The cost varies greatly so look around. Also Keep in mind that 35% hydrogen peroxide WILL easily and quickly kill a child or even an adult if ingested in a very painful manner I won't describe here. Skin contact can seriously burn and with high percentage levels spills on clothing can spontaneously combust into flames. Remember it is also used as rocket fuel in the space program and we all know what happened to the challenger.
In lowpercentage amounts it is very safe. It is often used as a toothpaste, wound cleaner, and has been reported to have cancer fighting uses. It is also regularly used as a spa or hot tub sanitizer in place of bromides or chlorine that have serious potential long term implications. A 3% solution if spilled on your clothes will likely turn them pink. So PLEASE keep your supply out of childrens reach and be very careful with it. Store it in an opaque container or in a dark upper cabinet since light will degrade it over time. Even a pint of 35% will last a lifetime for the average user unless you're commercial. One quarter of a teaspoon in one gallon of water gives a good regular watering dosage. Mix what you need fresh each use or at least cap the mixed water tightly to prevent degradation or evaporation.
Just be cautious and use it in small amounts, scrupulously recording your data and you'll find a wonderful organic safe pesticide and anti-fungal tool.
http://search.arrow.edu.au/main/res...niversity.+Primary+Industries+Research+Centre.
Inadequate oxygen concentration in the root zone is a constraint to plant performance particularly in heavy, compacted and/or saline soils. Sub-surface drip irrigation (SDI) offers a means of increasing oxygen to plant roots in such soils, provided irrigation water can be hyper-aerated or oxygenated. Hydrogen peroxide (HP) at the rate of 5 litre ha-l at the end of each irrigation cycle was injected through SDI tape to a field-grown zucchini (courgette) crop (Cucurbita pepo) on a saturated heavy clay soil in Queensland, A ustralia. Fruit yield, number and shoot weight increased by 25%o,29%o and 24% respectively due to HP treatment compared to the control. Two pot experiments with vegetable soybean (Glycine max) and cotton (Gossypium hirsutum) compared the effectiveness of HP and air injection using a Mazzeli air injector (a venturi), throughout the irrigation cycle in raising crop yield in a heavy clay soil kept at saturation or just under field capacity. Fresh pod yield ofvegetable soybean increased by 82-96%i n aeration treatments compared with the control. The yield increase was associated with more pods per plant and greater mean pod weight. Significantly higher above ground biomass and light interception were evident with aeration, irrespective of soil water treatment. Similarly cotton lint yield increased by 14-28% in aeration treatments compared with the control. The higher lint yield was associated with more squares and bolls per plant which accompanied greater above ground biomass and an increase in root mass, root length and soil respiration. Air injection and HP effected greater water use, but also brought about an enhancement of water use effrciency (WUE) for pod and lint yield, and increased leaf photosynthetic rate in both species but had no effect on transpiration rate and stomatal conductance per unit leaf area. Aeration-induced enhanced root function was arguably responsible for greater fruit set and yield in all three crops, while in vegetable soybean greater canopy cover, radiation interception and total vegetative biomass were responsible for additional yield benefit. Increased aeration of the root zone in heavy clay soils employing either air injection or HP proved beneficial to SDI irrigated crops, irrespective of the soil water conditions, and can add value to grower investments in SDI
minds_I
PS: with regard to the cyclic nature of the mocrobiology count in nature be all bad.
Perhaps we are focusing on creating too perfect of a environment by making sure we don't kill the microkiddes and there populations are in extreme or greater then maximum population counts. Perhaps the H2O2 in the rain is intended to reduce the population so that it can ramp-up again? Just a thought.
Last edited:
I've used H2O2 in industry to kill living organisms in water chillers. Not only did it kill the hell out of it, it disintegrated it so it was removed from the heat exchanger tubes. It may be good for synthetic growing but I'd steer clear of it in a living medium like ours.
Why do you think they sell it in first aid aisle of the drug store? Antibiotic ring a bell?
Burn1
Why do you think they sell it in first aid aisle of the drug store? Antibiotic ring a bell?
Burn1
prolificgrower
Member
a lotta of people in organics feel that theres no need to flush due to the fact that theres no chemical bases ferts in the soil ....so how much H2o2 would you recomend adding to a gallon
??
??
C
CT Guy
I enjoyed the read, but I'll have to go back and re-read it when I have more time. Thanks for sharing!
prolificgrower
Member
i know there users on here who use it to suplly extra oxygen to the roots i just can find e ive read there posts b4
prolificgrower
Member
aight boys im not a moderator nor do i care if your one or not this is my thread and i just wanted to know if it was straight to add the h2o2 in diluted amouts or not ive seen many respected members in these forums get into fights over nothing were all here for the same cause tho some of have our own methods of growing that we have burned into our brains we are still here to share that knowedge with an open mind so that we can learn/teach and improve our growing techniques so share your and provide evidence and procedures so there can be no more disputes dr. bud just created a grow diary to put rumors to rest and thats a perfect example of what im talking about were all brothers in the fight stay safe....bless
