J
Jeff Lebowski
Anyone have a guide on whipping up some homemade clearex, or would a simply tap water flush do the same? Thanks for looking out ;0
D
dongle69
Clearex is glucose, sucrose, and water.
Sugars in your water are what make the flush.
Sugars in your water are what make the flush.
J
Jeff Lebowski
Any way to add these sugars? Molasses perhaps? I have no idea but appreciate the info.
Tony Danza
Member
molasses, maple syrup, corn syrup, sugar, I think they will all work.
J
Jeff Lebowski
I think the molasses as trace minerals, but not enough to make a difference. I think it's mostly used as a sugar supplement to the plant, as opposed to a nutrient supplement. Thanks for the replies.
D
dongle69
donpuro said:Did not know this.. good bit of info. I thought it was bad for the flush (blackstrap molasses) because it has nutrients in it
You are right, don't use blackstrap for flush.
Use blackstrap only if you are trying to get nutrients from your molasses.
G
Greyskull
dongle69 said:
I have been using Sweet at 25-50ml/G for my flushes. Works great. And you know its got sugars galore. I prefer the berry to the sweet.
Does that count as a "homemade" clearex?
G
Greyskull
I was kinda kidding about the homemade comment (sorry).
The Sweet flush really enhances the flavor & scent. Doesn't add as much stuff as you think - the buds burn crackle free and leave a nice white/light gray ash.
... all this stuff is off topic though. Lets get it back to what JL was looking for.
Anyone ever used Honey?
The Sweet flush really enhances the flavor & scent. Doesn't add as much stuff as you think - the buds burn crackle free and leave a nice white/light gray ash.
... all this stuff is off topic though. Lets get it back to what JL was looking for.
Anyone ever used Honey?
tejashidrow
Active member
a old timer from O.G. told me to TOSS all that CLEARING additives.
Just use a SUPER LIGHT fert. ( i used a 1ml fert per 4 gallons) .
Sumthing to do with the nute ions attaching to other ions and transporting out... I don't know but it worked for me....
Now i just add ONLY blackstrap molasses the last week as a finisher... The small amount of trace minerals do the same as the old timer said...
May not be fact, but it works for me.....
GOOD LUK!!! pax
Just use a SUPER LIGHT fert. ( i used a 1ml fert per 4 gallons) .
Sumthing to do with the nute ions attaching to other ions and transporting out... I don't know but it worked for me....
Now i just add ONLY blackstrap molasses the last week as a finisher... The small amount of trace minerals do the same as the old timer said...
May not be fact, but it works for me.....
GOOD LUK!!! pax
Kenny Lingus
Active member
nitric acid and or humic acid
....ph 5.5 for coco is swell enuff
....ph 5.5 for coco is swell enuff
S
Shan Diego
Clearex is sugar water. Try using Coca Cola...
I would not recommend coca cola it contains extra ingredients (who knows their effect) and not the same sugar combination's as clearex. Heres my optimum flush schedule, a speedy 5-7 day flush schedule and one flush method if you don't have/want to get a salt leaching product for whatever reason. These methods are for when some chemmy nutes were used, for example this time General Hydro Bloom and Micro as a base nutrient, but the rest was organic. So not a lot to flush, but I'd go the full two weeks because I like it real clean and smooth, and its all personal meds.
Allow for 15 days or more of flush time if you used real chemmy nutes, you can even flush longer if you really want a smooth smoke but used strong chem nutes.
I make sure I use a heavy amount of Hygrozyme on my last nutrient feeding, ~10-15mL/Gal, based on my feel for the nutrient regimen/medium and how much needs to be broken down.
With 15 days left for your strain to finish, judge it the besst you can, stop all nutrients. Then the next watering I use 1 Tbs/Gal of black strap unsulphured molasses and I continue this every watering for 1 week.
If you do not have a salt leaching solution, or are against their use or low on cash you can just do 1-3 more days of molasses, for a total of 9-10 days. Molasses is very similar to Clearex, Clearex just has a few sugars that are different in different molecular make-up than molasses has and molasses has some nutrients clearex doesn't. You will just want to flush with pure water 2-3 days longer also when the time comes because molasses contains relatively small amounts of micro-nutrients and minerals.
If you do want to use a saly leaching solution, after a week of molasses, and plants medium is ready to be watered again, I use a salt leaching solution like Clearex, in water mixed with nothing else. Or you can use some other companies salt leaching product, there is many out there, I like Clearex's performance the most though. I tested many similar products in hydro systems where you have access to see the results directly and Clearex preformed better than 3 other similar products, don't remeber the other product names. I just do one dose of the salt leaching solution, I've found it doesn't give any smoother of a smoke, maybe even a little worse IMHO, than if used every watering for 7-10 days then chop, as Botanicare advises. I noticed a "watered down" effect to the taste/smell to the herb and smoke the only time I used Clearex 8 days straight then chopped. So I just use it once at their recommended application rate, after the week of molasses.
Then finish with 6-7 days of pure R/O water. Make sure you get lots of runoff when using the pure water, aim for 20% or more runoff, but also don't drown them, give them time to dry out well before next watering. This flush method works great for the smoothest and tastiest flowers. This has been my method I've been sticking with after trying more than a dozen others by myself and two other friends.
If you are not as worried about harsh smoke or in a rush to cut them, but still want to flush this next technique should do well. Still use a large dose of Hygrozyme with your last nutrient mix. Then start molasses,atleast one day later at same dose but you can shorten the amount of days of molasses, but I'd get a couple days in at least. Then I'd use the clearex for 2-3 days mixed with just water, using the clearex at 115%-125% their reccomended application rate. then at least two days of water and make sure you get lots of runoff when using the pure water. Then chop
And the fastest way possible to flush although it will not give chem nutes a full flush, is use a salt leacher as many days possible, next day with pure water,then 24 hrs. and chop.
When I used all organics I used to flush with pure R/O water for 2-3 days just to be safe, although most beleive any flush with organics is unnecessary.
I hope this helps you all, I've lurked on here for years now for information, I don't even want to think what my flowers would look like with out all of you, sharing your info. Now that I have time, because I recently had my spine refused, and now have more experience, I'm going to be posting more trying to help where I can.
Best of luck to you all!!!
Have a great day!!
!
This is good advice. W/o getting into the chemistry, that is exactly what happens; a lower ppm nutrient solution will bind excess ions, instead of letting them fall out of suspension... I use H&G drip clean as well at 1mL a gallon. It's nothing like Clearex. It works by binding the excess nutes.
