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silly-stupid-easy way to beat flir with alot of watts discussion

DIGITALHIPPY

Active member
Veteran
it just dawned on me... and i havent worked out all the kinks, and i know there will be a couple... :bashhead:
but...
why dont we just use the air-register in the "grow-room" to push heat into? i understand itll probably restrict flow and it might only work with 3 or 4 lights/hoods max... my house has 6" to all the air-registers.

with winter coming up, i figure ill stuff heat into every room of my house....
itll also keep attics cool and heat well-distributed...

please leave some POSITIVE thoughts, or put a POSITIVE SPIN on a down-fall to the idea.
DH :rasta:
 

Blazned

Member
assuming your not going to run the heater, you will need to seal the output on the heater so air dont flow back through there. but you may need supplemental heating if real cold, and in that case you will need to hook up a baffle of some sorts before the t or y in your attic where the vent leads to the grow room so the heater air dont try to push into the grow room. if done near the t or y, then the air will combine and go the path of least resistance. i think this is a great idea and is definately doable, but you may need to experiment to get it right. i love jury rigged homemade cheap stuff. good luck. dont listen to the fools out there that think its a bad idea, they have no imagination. also, you gonna need the one way baffle thingy because when the lights are out you gonna want to run the heater. unless you have the room separated somehow and run lights in each half at opposing 12 hour schedule. so half of lights are always on. but i think the baffle thingy would be easier. then you dont have to figure out how to seal the heater output. and youll generate more heat, thereby cutting heater usage somewhat.you probably will want to install some sort of one way flow baffle near the heater output also so you dont push hot air back out the heater when its not running. i believe its definately possible if you can get the baffle figured out, or actually find them commercially made. you can leave the one near the heater installed all the time, only need to remove the one by the grow room when not growing in winter. :jump:
 
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DIGITALHIPPY

Active member
Veteran
i wasnt planing on using the heater atall... thats why this is so perfect. it generates heat (lights) and use the pre-run ducts to distribute it house-wide. i know the pressure is all wrong though.....
thinking of getting another can-max-fan so i can still exhaust some hoods elsewhere........making a "new heater duct" in a general-area.
outside my excessive number of pc's running in my house (not ALL at once, hopefuly) i try to conserve power, i only used the central a/c 3 or 4 times this summer. (desert/valley kind-of) they use alot of juice, in winter i might want some heat.
 
C

confedrate69

hey there digital hippy ive been heating my house on grow lights for 2 years now hehehe works great with the out door forced air wood/coal stove thats been in use 2 years also keep the stove runnin hot all day and at night turn it down so the fire lasts all night and the lights supplement very nicely have not had a morning waking up to frozen glasses of water sitting on my counter even if the fire goes out !!!
how i made it work is i put in a extra floor register in the rooms nearest the lights and run 2kw to each register.
had 4 lights running to 1` register and it was like walking into a desert in the middle of winter .
now if you are planning to use the in place ducts u will need 2 electric dampners 1 normally open and 1 normally closed. normally closed hooked to lights and floor register so when lights are off they are seperated from the heating sys exsisting in your house. normally open one to the heating sys so it runs when power is off when power is applied to both dampiners it will close off your furnace and open up the lights to heat through the vents.
feel free to let me know if u need part numbers/ supplyers / diagrams or any general help with this one you will not be the first one ive helped set up something like this for saving the all mighty dollar.
there is a 20kw flip flop garage "10 on 10 off" that keeps itself and a 14 x 60 2 br trailer warm all winter long with no additional heat just a large insulated duct running from garage to the house heat trunk
 

zolar

Member
anyone tried running heat exhaust to cold air return and using furnace blower to disperse throughout the house
 

DIGITALHIPPY

Active member
Veteran
zolar said:
anyone tried running heat exhaust to cold air return and using furnace blower to disperse throughout the house
first thing i thought of, but my main intake in on the graoundfloor hallway about 3 foot from the front door, not a good place for a grow.

'register' is a technical name for the square air-vents in the rooms that have 'central-air/heat'
 
C

confedrate69

running into the cold air duct is not the greatest idea unless u plan on running your furnace blower 24/7 positive pressure will negitivly effect the furnace!
DO NOT RUN YOUR GROW EXAUST IN TO A COLD AIR RETURN ON A GAS FURNACE WE DO NOT WANT TO READ A THREAD HERE ABOUT HOW YOUR FURNACE FAILED AND FILLED YOUR HOUSE WITH GAS AND EXPLODED IT !!!
I can see it now house explodes sending weed plants flying into neghibors houses and leo charges the unsuspecting neighbors with cultivating the sacered herb
 

Macster2

Member
I know your trying to be helpful but how can you disperse gas throughout a house if you hook up your room to a cold air return????
I've run my fan and filter hooked into my cold air return for almost 2 yrs now and the only issue I get is the high humidity from the room is being sent straight upstairs to my bedroom and in the winter I get some ice build up in the corners of my windows
 
C

confedrate69

guest2222999
how many growers are clueless about furnaces for that matter how meny rent a old house with a dinasour of a furnace?
thermo couplers are what we had before all this new electronic ignition stuff and they CAN and DO FAIL
2 choices when they fail
#1 they do what there designed to do and cut off the gas
#2 they fail in a closed position saying theres a flame when there is not
#1 you and your garden are safe #2 and theres how we EXPLODE a house by forcing air were its not supposed to be
old furnaces are not safe to force air through the cold air returns the pliot can blow out and fill the house with gas very easily if there is the smallest prob with your thermo coupler
if you dont know jack about furnaces DO NOT FORCE AIR WERE ITS NOT SUPPOSED TO BE
im not a furnace guy but a general contractor for a few rental company's.
means i work on old crap that they want fixed not replaced now think about all those people growing in these rentals even there own home thats had some one worse about rigging crap to make it work than me "safety issues i will not rig period over end " but theres a lot who will!!!!!
in short i placed my working knowlage of old furnaces out there to maby save some ones grow or even life who knows.
gas is bad to play with if you do not know it. if u do please by all means do it but do it safe!
for those of us with electric heat i think it will work great, if u didn't jerk the 90 amp circut off the heater and run it to a sub panel for the grow show like some have done {looks at self in mirror} coal heat its the way of hillbillys in coal country
for those with gas please check with some one knowlagable before hooking up a potential bomb in your house.
a new 90% effincy will have electric ignition and should work fine provided u are not pushing to much air through while manifolds heat.
if u are pushing too much air through it may trick the computer that they use to control the flame into saying it needs more gas when it doesn't thus your 90% efficancy just went down to 50% "dont know the drop would depend on house btu's furnace make and model lots of variables.
i wish all houses had to have 90%+ furnaces with the computer controls any sally dick or harry could look at the pretty lights and tell me what part to bring before i drove out!
i may not be a smart man but any grow i build for any one i will refuse to route forced air to a return on a gas furnace!
 

DIGITALHIPPY

Active member
Veteran
confedrate69 said:
running into the cold air duct is not the greatest idea unless u plan on running your furnace blower 24/7 positive pressure will negitivly effect the furnace!
DO NOT RUN YOUR GROW EXAUST IN TO A COLD AIR RETURN ON A GAS FURNACE WE DO NOT WANT TO READ A THREAD HERE ABOUT HOW YOUR FURNACE FAILED AND FILLED YOUR HOUSE WITH GAS AND EXPLODED IT !!!
I can see it now house explodes sending weed plants flying into neghibors houses and leo charges the unsuspecting neighbors with cultivating the sacered herb
dude not only is all that equipment not being used, not PLANED on being used, but its fuckin' unpluged. gas shut off, a/c breaker turned off, even the main blower unit it unpluged from the wall inside the a/c closet.

im looking for tricks from people who know what im talking about (you obviously dont) i can see it now you grow a brain....haha btw my furnice is less then 5 y.o. by the sticker on manufacture date. again common sence... when will people here get some??? i asked for no bullshit, but here you are...

back to reality...
im thinking of buying a 8-> register box and tucking the 2 square ends together..
 
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terminalc

Farmer
ICMag Donor
Dude was just trying to help people not blow their house up. Running hot air to the cold air intake also will make it very difficult to cool your house if it gets hot in the summer and you don't have an oversized a/c. Not to mention not efficient and can smell.
 

Reg Dunlop

Member
After reading Confederate 69 three posts in this thread,and actually owning an outdoor wood furnace myself and fucking around with my own old school furnace prior to my outdoor furnace,I can honestly say the guy knows what he's talking about.Why is everyone coming down on a guy that is trying to prevent someone from a terrible,mabey even fatal accident?Not only that,he's no longer here to give anymore solid and sound advice anymore.
 
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kmk420kali

Freedom Fighter
Veteran
Reg Dunlop said:
After reading Confederate 69 three posts in this thread,and actually owning an outdoor wood furnace myself and fucking around with my own old school furnace prior to my outdoor furnace,I can honestly say the guy knows what he's talking about.Why is everyone coming down on a guy that is trying to prevent someone from a terrible,mabey even fatal accident?Not only that,he's no longer here to give anymore solid and sound advice anymore.

If he knew what he was talking about, he would not have said it--
The air going through the furnace is absolutely isolated from the pilot-- If not, don't you think it would just blow it out every time it ran??
There is nothing about forcing air through your ducts that will blow up a furnace....worst thing I can think of, is humidity collecting in the duct, and mold or mildew growing in them....blowing all over your house, but no explosions--
 

Dr. G

Active member
awsome i was alitle worried cuz im about to exaust my 25k btu ac into my furnace tomorow but i did find that all my main ducts have manual dampers was just going to shut that one off but i looked in my furnace and the pilots are encased in a box

plus i wanna be able for my furnace to pick up any extra heat my house needs
 

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