Where's the electrician?

[PharmaCan]

damn, this thread got harsh.

It sure did. I guess that's what happens when you piss off a little kid with a good imagination. When will these children learn that all their bluster just makes them look like bigger fools?

Plant propagation: during the three years it took to complete the TWO schools I put myself through while working to feed my family, I worked summers at a clone nursery: 2.7 MILLION clones: cut, stripped, dipped and planted BY HAND

Let's see... 10 weeks of summer X 40 hours per week = 400 hours X 3 summers = 1,200 hours. 2.7 million clones done in 1,200 hours = 2,250 clones per hour. That's roughly 0.625 seconds to cut, strip and plant each clone. ...and that's assuming never taking a break for anything. That boy needs to change his handle to SuperBladderMan.

"Mommy, Mommy, that monkey with a meter is making fun of me."

"Now Billy, you know monkeys can't make fun of people. Billy, you stop that tantrum right this minute! Oh dear, Billy, you wet your pants again. Will you never learn to use a toilet?"

"You just wait, Mommy. When I grow up they're going to call me SuperBladderMan."

PC

 

[PharmaCan]

I'm gonna tell you this one time dope head.

No matter how many feet of wire your monkey ass drags through pipe, or how many tools you load up in that bag, you are what's called a Monkey with a Meter.

I said his advice is wrong. That means he's wrong.

Period.

a Monkey with a Meter is what I said you are;

and that's fine - a man with one eye is king, in the land where all others are blind. And if you want to talk all day long to these new guys, that's fine, too. I applaud it. It means I don't have to.

But don't you EVER: no matter HOW fuckin HIGH you GET: think some day, by some slim chance, you're gonna be right, and I be wrong. Get that out of your head TODAY Monkey.

I don't give a shit about your tool bag and suspenders, or years of monkey-with-meter-isms you are going to claim make you know more. What I say, is gonna be found to be right: and all the charts, other monkeys with meters -whatever you scurry around looking for, to "verify it", is going to wind up - with me being right.

That's just the way it is. You can spit skoal, spam emoticons, or slam your pickup truck door till the glass falls out. But when I speak and you sense that maybe - I could be in error, you'd better be thinking one of two things: typo, or that you didn't know, or had forgotten that.

You're not on par with my understanding of every, single concept associated with these little wind up toys, and the power/controls that make them run. Right down, to the fucking electron, monkey.

I'm not going to follow you around looking to mince words or split hairs. You try to help people. And since TyStik left there's only you and Frank around; and Yamaha has a halfway decent grasp on the basics but I don't see him posting much lately. So I'm not interested in playing games and humiliating electricians.

But I'd better not see you roll up getting smart again or I'll show you a trick. It's called ''I make you look like exactly what you are"

A Monkey with a Meter.

I shit you not.

And since you seem like a particularly stupid monkey I'll give you my resume, and you - well, you're just a stupid monkey with a fucking meter and I don't give a shit about your worthless resume. I know yours. Year, upon year of doing the same things, over and over, and you still don't understand half the concepts of electrical engineering that brought you your blueprints for the past however many years.

2450 hours: electrical and electronic circuit engineering, applications, and analysis; analog, digital circuits, 1400 hours; Advanced wireless electronic communications: from low frequency maritime transmissions & reception to Super-High Frequency radar & satellite communications principles: 1,000 hours CLASS time.
Another 50 or so on top of that in industrial power & controls.

That was before I filled out the first job application, monkey.

6 years: wireless communications electronic technician: Grand Canyon National Park, Peabody Coal, Bureau of Indian Affairs: Navajo Indian Reservation, Hopi Indian reservation, all of Northern Arizona, some of eastern Nevada, southern Utah, western New Mexico. As the electronic technician responsible for servicing the Grand Canyon National Park I was one of only two technicians who covered nearly 2,000 square miles of some of the most rugged territory on earth: remote communications sites with hundreds of thousands of dollars' sophisticated gear to be maintained at all times, in all weather, all conditions. That included all radio communications for ambulances, search & rescue, tour guidance, fire control, forestry service, police, and Grand Canyon Management. Also serviced & maintained two-way radio communications for two, private tourist airlines at the same time just outside the gate at Tusayan. National certification a must to even APPLY for those jobs.

Industrial Electrician, polyphase, high power; controls, instrumentation: 3 years: private contract work: U.S. Navy, Boeing: 400 amp delta power transformers, instrumentation for precision lifting & handling aircraft parts.
Blueprints: count em: 300 pages thick bound in 100 page bundles. Mechanical 100, hydraulic 100, electrical 100. I FIRED electricians with 20, 30 years' experience for not being able to bend the pipe and understand the circuitry. While bending it and wiring it myself.

Industrial Electrician one year: high pressure natural gas turbine plant electrical & pipe refits while the stations REMAINED RUNNING and FULLY PRESSURIZED. 20-something inch natural gas pipeline, stations between Arizona and Nevada. Every fitting vapor & liquid tight.

Commercial Electrician: 6 years: Hospitals and University buildings primarily; other various jobs I wired up in between having a real one.

You?

Who the fuck are you, monkey?

Let's go further. Perhaps you think there's something about these fucking stoner wind up toys I've missed.

Related to this hobby: as a boy my mother opened a tropical fish shop. For 2 years I watched and learned as she managed from 1 to 5 hobby aquariums. PH, temps, general water quality.
4 years: helped manage water quality, temperature control of 30, then expanded up to 40 individual, 10/15/20 gallon aquariums on a daily basis. Thousands of pH, temperature checks on a daily basis to keep livestock healthy and thriving. Pumps, water flow & filtration, name it. All fresh water, not marine so there's a weak point.

You?

Plant propagation: during the three years it took to complete the TWO schools I put myself through while working to feed my family, I worked summers at a clone nursery: 2.7 MILLION clones: cut, stripped, dipped and planted BY HAND in sand beds shoveled in using wheelbarrows: 4 feet wide, 30(ish) feet long. A wide variety of flowering plants and shrubs cloned, maintaining the valves, misters, and general infrastructure to keep clone propagation success rate between 92-98%, with an average of about 95% success rate. After 2-3 weeks, pulled them, bundled them, packed them, shipped them. 3 acres under fabric.

Clones were stuck out in two man teams sitting on a board across the sand beds at a rate of TWO to THREE PER SECOND going into the sand. Grab a handful of toothpicks and cup of water: sit down and draw a knife across the ground, and try to stick the toothpicks into the ground at a rate of TWO to THREE per SECOND, 1/2 inch apart. Yeah that's what I said.
You'll see it CAN be done, monkey.

You?

Indoor growing experience: 3 years: dwc, swc, aeroponic, passive perlite Hempy buckets. Only for personal usage so not a lot of dope grown; about 2 pounds, in three years under a small light.
NO hydroponic nutrients. FEW bottled nutrients of ANY kind, monkey.

Taught myself the chemistry of botany, plant nutrition, simultaneously by kicking off my growing career with the determination to START OUT by hand mixing my own nutrients.

You? I'm guessing your ''wisdom'' gets poured out of a fucking bottle.

So that's my resume, monkey.

And if you doubt one fucking word roll up behind me one more time and lets play a game called "I check you, you check me" because I LOVE THAT SHIT.

I LOVE IT - and I'll prove it in a jack-jump fucking flash, with the ease of taking candy from a CHILD.

BET.

My original name here is ~KiNgMaKeR~ motherfucker. And I will SHOW YOU who's a fucking child, and how easy it is to take candy from one. BET ON IT WITH YOUR LAST FUCKING DIME.

Sorry folks, I just had to save this rant before dip-wad edits it. This is a true classic and the picture of some pimple-faced little twit sitting there typing this, and then thinking anyone is going to believe it, is just too funny for words.

PC

 

[Cannabis]

It sure did. I guess that's what happens when you piss off a little kid with a good imagination. When will these children learn that all their bluster just makes them look like bigger fools?



Let's see... 10 weeks of summer X 40 hours per week = 400 hours X 3 summers = 1,200 hours. 2.7 million clones done in 1,200 hours = 2,250 clones per hour. That's roughly 0.625 seconds to cut, strip and plant each clone. ...and that's assuming never taking a break for anything. That boy needs to change his handle to SuperBladderMan.

"Mommy, Mommy, that monkey with a meter is making fun of me."

"Now Billy, you know monkeys can't make fun of people. Billy, you stop that tantrum right this minute! Oh dear, Billy, you wet your pants again. Will you never learn to use a toilet?"

"You just wait, Mommy. When I grow up they're going to call me SuperBladderMan."

PC

That kind of dipshit lack of calculation proves you don't have the education to do even basic arithmetic.

8 man crew: some cutting, some stripping, some making beds, some sticking out: a 9 hour day, and sometimes a half day on Saturday. Small business in agriculture doesn't pay overtime.

3600 seconds per hour, 2 clones per second, 3 hours a day sticking them out, 5 days a week, 4 weeks per month, 3 months per season, X 2 seasons:

3600 X 2 X 3 X 5 X 4 X 3 X 2 = 2,592,000

3.25 hours per day = 2,808,000

I wrote 2,700,000.

Just stfu while you're as far behind as you already are, meter monkey.

 

[PharmaCan]

That kind of dipshit lack of calculation proves you don't have the education to do even basic arithmetic.

8 man crew: some cutting, some stripping, some making beds, some sticking out: a 9 hour day, and sometimes a half day on Saturday. Small business in agriculture doesn't pay overtime.

3600 seconds per hour, 2 clones per second, 3 hours a day sticking them out, 5 days a week, 4 weeks per month, 3 months per season, X 2 seasons:

3600 X 2 X 3 X 5 X 4 X 3 X 2 = 2,592,000

3.25 hours per day = 2,808,000

I wrote 2,700,000.

Just stfu while you're as far behind as you already are, meter monkey.

Gotcha!

You're my puppet now. All I have to do is pull a string and you start backpedaling like a preacher who just got caught with a $2.00 ho.

But I've grown tired of this childish nonsense. It's only amusing for a brief while. My apologies to everyone for polluting the forum in such a manner.

PC aka MeterMonkey

 

[RedReign]

Just noticed you had your ground wire screwed onto the mechanism plate's green screw... I always wondered WTF that was for, it was not covered in the instructions from what I could see.

I have my ground wires screwed into the first left screw (left of [1] line and [2] line)... is that wrong? What do you have going into your left-most screw covered by the plastic?

Or is it just meant for wiring convenience, and the left-most screw (covered by plastic) is connected to the timer mechanism metal plate, basically serving as the same thing with two different connection points?

CT, yep, you wire to the green screw to ground the timer. The screw to the far left is for the neutral. It doesn't connect to anything, it's just there to tie your neutrals together. Connecting the neutrals with a wire nut instead does the exact same thing.

 

[PharmaCan]

CT, yep, you wire to the green screw to ground the timer. The screw to the far left is for the neutral. It doesn't connect to anything, it's just there to tie your neutrals together. Connecting the neutrals with a wire nut instead does the exact same thing.

Those type of Intermatics have a 120v motor in them. That screw/location has the neutral for the 120v motor. It should have a white jumper running from it that needs to be connected to your neutral wire(s).

PC

 

[RedReign]

Those Intermatics have a 120v motor in them. That screw/location has the neutral for the 120v motor. It should have a white jumper running from it that needs to be connected to your neutral wire(s).

PC

Ah, my bad. I have the 220v water heater timer. The timer itself doesn't need a neutral.

 

[cocktail frank]

the 240v clock motor time clocks still have a screw for the neutral.
it is useless and does not ground to the enclosure.
you need to move your ground wires to the green screw on the motor housing CT.

 

[CDM]

Ya neutral is not supposed to be grounded..
rough thread..

 

[RedReign]

Just looked it up. Only the T101/T103/T105 have 120v clock motors. The rest have 220v clock motors.

Glad I looked it up. I need to stop by HD and pick up a mechanical 120v timer for my veg room.

 

[420cali]

I dont have that timer where im at the momment, but yeah the ground should be secured on that(green) bolt.

 

[Cannabis]

Just noticed you had your ground wire screwed onto the mechanism plate's green screw... I always wondered WTF that was for, it was not covered in the instructions from what I could see.

I have my ground wires screwed into the first left screw (left of [1] line and [2] line)... is that wrong? What do you have going into your left-most screw covered by the plastic?

Or is it just meant for wiring convenience, and the left-most screw (covered by plastic) is connected to the timer mechanism metal plate, basically serving as the same thing with two different connection points?

The reason the ground is connected on the clock's face plate Clown, is due mainly to the snap in modular design. The snap-in, snap-out clock design coupled with the known installation by purchasers/users assumed to not be qualified, technically trained personnel, places the ground on the front for a variety of accumulated, safety-oriented reasons.

First if the ground for the clock mechanism was wired in behind, people taking the mechanism in and out could forget to re-establish the ground.

Second, the snap-in design does possess the fundamental mechanical disadvantage that it could conceivably, be improperly snapped in. Having the ground on the clock unit means positive grounding and ensured safety in that event.

Third, the clock itself is more adequately protected against transient spikes.

Fourth, placing the ground on the front minimizes unqualified personnel working with the typically harder to screw in grounding screw, in the vicinity of other hot components, and establishes greater ease of installation in general.

Putting the ground on the face plate which is going to be touched each time the unit is adjusted anyway - is best for overall safety design.

 

[FirstTracks]

I've gotta apologize to the OP for my words about DH. i felt it needed to be said. And I maintain that I think DH is a great member, but electrical isn't his strongpoint (he's great with AN nutes, general growing, nice plants, etc)

Unfortunately, it was one of the first of many little negative things to come up on this thread and I'm not proud to have written it.

gotta thank members like CF and others for getting this thread back on track.

 

[PharmaCan]

The reason the ground is connected on the clock's face plate Clown, is due mainly to the snap in modular design. The snap-in, snap-out clock design coupled with the known installation by purchasers/users assumed to not be qualified, technically trained personnel, places the ground on the front for a variety of accumulated, safety-oriented reasons.

First if the ground for the clock mechanism was wired in behind, people taking the mechanism in and out could forget to re-establish the ground.

Second, the snap-in design does possess the fundamental mechanical disadvantage that it could conceivably, be improperly snapped in. Having the ground on the clock unit means positive grounding and ensured safety in that event.

Third, the clock itself is more adequately protected against transient spikes.

Fourth, placing the ground on the front minimizes unqualified personnel working with the typically harder to screw in grounding screw, in the vicinity of other hot components, and establishes greater ease of installation in general.

Putting the ground on the face plate which is going to be touched each time the unit is adjusted anyway - is best for overall safety design.

Actually it's put there because the snap-in device (plate) holds all the connections and motor, which are required to be grounded whether the unit is snapped into the box or not.

PC

 

[clowntown]

Is this bad news, or is it just as good but "just not official"?

If it's bad news, I'll change it as soon as it's completely off / safe. If not, I'd prefer to keep it that way because I'm not running any neutrals, and the "A" screw plate holds wires more securely than the ground screw + mini-plate for these 10awg & 12awg wires.

 

[hoosierdaddy]

Is that insulation jacket toasted?

 

[PharmaCan]

Is this bad news, or is it just as good but "just not official"?

If it's bad news, I'll change it as soon as it's completely off / safe. If not, I'd prefer to keep it that way because I'm not running any neutrals, and the "A" screw plate holds wires more securely than the ground screw + mini-plate for these 10awg & 12awg wires.

CT - I'm not familiar with that specific timer, but if that lug with the grounds isn't connected to anything, you'll be okay. Just run a jumper from your grounds up to the grounding screw. You can use #12 or #14 for the jumper, you don't have to use the #10.

PC

 

[clowntown]

Is that insulation jacket toasted?

No, has electrical tape around it from slightly scratching the jacket on the ground. Had it been any other wire, I would have just pulled more and snipped it off, but being ground I thought electrical tape that I already had in my hand was an easier, lazier solution.

CT - I'm not familiar with that specific timer, but if that lug with the grounds isn't connected to anything, you'll be okay. Just run a jumper from your grounds up to the grounding screw. You can use #12 or #14 for the jumper, you don't have to use the #10.

Yeah the lug w/ green ground screw isn't connected to anything. Most excellent idea about the jumper , but I'm quite upset I didn't think of this myself. I have a few feet of extra #10 around so why not. Thanks!

 

[clowntown]

Is that insulation jacket toasted?

No, has electrical tape around it from slightly scratching the jacket on the ground. Had it been any other wire, I would have just pulled more and snipped it off, but being ground I thought electrical tape that I already had in my hand was an easier, lazier solution.

CT - I'm not familiar with that specific timer, but if that lug with the grounds isn't connected to anything, you'll be okay. Just run a jumper from your grounds up to the grounding screw. You can use #12 or #14 for the jumper, you don't have to use the #10.

Yeah the lug w/ green ground screw isn't connected to anything, just a tapped hole in the timer mechanism board with screw & mini-plate in it.

Most excellent idea about the jumper , but I'm quite upset I didn't think of this myself. I have a few feet of extra #10 around so why not. Thanks!

 

[CDM]

you have a neutral and a hot wire on the same lag?
your using a white wire for power?