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dwc bucket????

FreezerBoy

Was blind but now IC Puckbunny in Training
Veteran
Cost can be astronomical to ghetto. Are you starting from scratch or switching over from another method? All I needed to add was a big tub and a couple of net pots. Everything else was lying around.

Water level is generally maintained 1" below net pot or primary rootball. It can be greater. I go 2 weeks between top offs so the gap is sometimes 4"-6". pH is easy if the res is big enough. The smaller the res the larger the swings. I'm a GH guy. No experiance with organics but, I'd leave that for another grow. Learn basics first. As a water cure fan, no flushing required for me.

I had no clue what I was doing when I switched over. With the help of the IC gang I ended up with this ( PVC frame is 29" long, net pot 5" dia, tub 18 gal)



You can do it.
 
i just couldnt deside what to wright freezerboy u were readin all along huh lol

ok so say my root mass is 6" below the net pot dus my have to be 7" below the net pot or 1"

im doin soil i like it but the bugs i got a bad infection and i cant get rid of it with anything everything i put on there seems to make it worce iv dun neem seed oil that doubled them iv dun a garlic mix iv tryed safer brand organic spray i havnt tryed the sm-90 for i live far away from the city so i dont get to the hydro shop much and i was hearing that you couldnt buy it in the us any more or is that only in cali i have a combo of root ahpids and these lil nats and normal house flys
 

FreezerBoy

Was blind but now IC Puckbunny in Training
Veteran
I wasn't sure if you were net pots or naked stem and "primary rootball" was a clumsy description. You want the root mass under water. The area where roots originate from the stalk is above water.

Look at my rootball where it leaves the pot. Notice how 3-4 inches lower it swells? Where the swell starts is the waterline. There comes a point that the bottom of the pot is covered so, mark your res with a "full" line. I marked mine in 2 gal increments.
 

FreezerBoy

Was blind but now IC Puckbunny in Training
Veteran
I already had the cab set up for E&F, the switch to DWC only cost $6 for a tub and some netpots. I also dropped $110 for a Bluelab EC Truncheon but, I don't know it was really necessary.

From scratch, maybe $400. $200 for a factory lamp setup. Most everything else was lying around. To buy it, say $50 for a beat up freezer. $50 for timers, power strip, ext cords. $15 for a fan. $20 for an airpump, airline and aerators. $50 for nutes. $5 pH test kit. Of course this doesn't cover tools to mod the cab, experiments and flights of fancy but, it's a fair starting point.
 
cool the only thing i had to buy for my cab were the bulbs sockets and dyi filter and i did it for under 150 i had everything else

so by your numbers i could set up a dwc bucket for about 30 sounds good the reson im thinking this is i want to grow one of the sativas i just got and they wont fit in my sog cab so when the time comes ill build a 7'-8' tall cab for one plant at a time 1/2 pound ever 4-6 mounths sounds good to me cuz i have my sog cab for the indicas once its goin at it full rate i should be pullin 1-2oz per week
 
i have this weird looking box pland in my head its a box inside a box lol
ill have a 3'x3'x8' plywood box and paint everthing flat white then take 8 6' 2 bulb floro tubes and stand them on all the sides bout a foot up from the bottom then 2 2' 2 bulb floro tubes on the top then i plexiglass box goes inside all of that(about 2'x2'x7' and id hang 2 125w cfl in dyi hoods inside the plexiglass box that would be a hell of alota floro light i think it would grow sum beautiful sativa buds anyone agree? any one wonna steal my idea? if you wonna then lets talk
 
FreezerBoy said:
Cost can be astronomical to ghetto. Are you starting from scratch or switching over from another method? All I needed to add was a big tub and a couple of net pots. Everything else was lying around.

Water level is generally maintained 1" below net pot or primary rootball. It can be greater. I go 2 weeks between top offs so the gap is sometimes 4"-6". pH is easy if the res is big enough. The smaller the res the larger the swings. I'm a GH guy. No experiance with organics but, I'd leave that for another grow. Learn basics first. As a water cure fan, no flushing required for me.

I had no clue what I was doing when I switched over. With the help of the IC gang I ended up with this ( PVC frame is 29" long, net pot 5" dia, tub 18 gal)



You can do it.

why does the ph swing? im doing a 6x5gal bucket RDWC with a 18 gal rez
my ph swing like a mofo. im in flowering and every day it seems like it needs
ph up?

the pump i have to recirculate is small i was afraid of flooding buckets
is that my problem or is the rez to small?

its my 1st dwc run and summer is a bitch. temps are ok with port a/c
but i expect this fall grow to go much more smoothly
 

Moleculist

Member
Growing sativas with fluoros seems like it might yield some crazy fluffy buds. I'm sure it would work fine, but maybe someone who has done that can chime in.
 
id like to do them outside but were im gunna be at the growin time is to short so its inside they stay and idk i dont really like hid cuz of the heat itll be eazy to cool the fluoros and im only growin for personal use so fluffy is fine with me as long as its cured good
 
dus hydro shorten you flower time?
dus hydro honestly double your yields?
dus hydro make it more less or equal potent?
how much dus it affect the taste?
i allwaz hear that soil taste the best
 

FreezerBoy

Was blind but now IC Puckbunny in Training
Veteran
rusty_shacklfor said:
why does the ph swing?
pH moves in the opposite direction as EC. EC climbs and pH drops when the nutes are too strong as the plant leaves nutes behind while it drinks. EC drops if the nutes are too weak.

My guess is you're grossly over feeding. Try cutting nutes in half and see what happens. Remember, feeding formulas on nute bottles have nothing to do with plant health. They're designed to suck your wallet dry as fast as possible without chasing you away.
 

FreezerBoy

Was blind but now IC Puckbunny in Training
Veteran
hippie hill said:
dus hydro shorten you flower time?
dus hydro honestly double your yields?
dus hydro make it more less or equal potent?
how much dus it affect the taste?
i allwaz hear that soil taste the best

Hydro has no effect on flower time.

It can increase yield but with your floros it may be a wash.

I believe potency is in the seed.

I water cure. Taste and smell are non issues for me.
 
iv just seen few vid that said u can shorten flower times with a proper hydro set up but i didnt beleave anything else they were sayin

i had a bud on gc that said he would double his yeilds but he was useing hps for flower

that same guy said his stuff was stronger in hydro

and taste im just goin off the cup growers that iv seen and they allwaz grew with soil cuz they said it was the only way to get the flavor to win

thanks freezerboy its nice to see sumone with sum rep not hatin on me lol there to many dipsticks that dont like the good drbudgreengenes
 

FreezerBoy

Was blind but now IC Puckbunny in Training
Veteran
Because of accelerated growth, Hydro can decrease veg time and thus produce faster yields overall but, flower time is determined by strain. I can adjust the veg time of my T*Haze x Skunk as much as I want. It still takes a minimum of 17 weeks of 12/12, 21 weeks is better.
 
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