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How long must I wait after pollenating to spray down/deactivate pollen???

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
Im not allowed to start a thread in the breeders lab, so I post it here...

Can I spray down plants and put um back into the veg chamber right after I hit um with some pollen?
Also is pollen always completely deactivated after getting wet?

I want to collect pollin in a bag, then pollinate a branch on like 2 or 3 differant plants and not have the pollen get on the rest so I can have some sensimilla and some seeds at the same time.
Thanks!
 

Haps

stone fool
Veteran
It ain't like breathing in and out, you want to leave the pollen on for a while, I do not know if there is a time requirement established.

Here is one way to do what you want, I am harvesting a crop this week that I did this on. Collect your pollen in a baggie or cup, a little will make a lot of seed. Then I take a clean baggie, and I rub a pipe cleaner into the pollen then put into the bag, do two or three of these. Take the baggie and pollenate just the branches you want seeded. Rub the pipe cleaner gently over and through the pistils and mark the branches you do so you can find them after harvest. Repeat this for three to five days, I have eight seeded buds in a fourteen plant crop, very little if any pollen spread around using this method.
H
 
J

jipedestran

thanks haps,

i am going to be pollenating an old Lifesaver with one or two different male phenos of Mothers finest. they sure are stinky.

peace
jip
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
Sounds like a plan... Anyone else got good methods similar to this one chime in, also folks who use water to deactivate after polination.
 
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southwind

Member
Pollenation

Pollenation

Hello

I do the following and as you know I have to do it alot.

I collect the pollen I want on a piece of paper. I tap the male flowers as they are just releasing so it falls out, nice and fresh.

I mark that pollen as I have a lot of males and females to do.

I take the pollen and a paint brush and dab brush in pollen and brush it on pistils, those are the white hairs, two of them and make sure they are nice and plump ones, always fresh.

I mark the stem with a twist tie with name of cross and date.

name of pop name of mom.

proper taxonomy.

I leave on for 24 hours.

I then spray her with water effectively destroying any viable pollen still remaining.

and move her back to flower room.

I do this all outside flower room, I have males elsewhere.


I also do not let males flower until several weeks into bloom on female so I have ALOT of fresh pistils.

And therefore more seeds.


sw
 
W

Whatever

If you selectively pollinate a fem outside the flower space you can immediately put it back into the room. At worst you're gonna get a few stray beans. When you selectively pollinate you're using a q-tip at worst and a fine paint brush at best with slow deliberate movements. A better option might be to spray down the room of unpollinated fems then put the pollinated fem in. I've mashed pollen into a fem then immediately sprayed down with water and more like a 50-75% success rate. I've pollinated buds right in the flower room and not much stray seed...just turn your ventilation and oscillating fans off...lol...I made that mistake and a few puffs of pollen got loose then immediately sprayed the room down and still virtually no stray seed.
 

clowntown

Active member
Veteran
Quick off-topic question... when pollinating, am I targeting just covering the pistil, or am I trying to get the pollen inside the calyx? I'm assuming the former, but never having done this ....
 

southwind

Member
pistils/stigmas

pistils/stigmas

The pistil /stigma is the female sex organ.

The pollen comes into contact with it and actually forms a microtubule along the length of the pistil to the ovum inside the calyx fertilizing it and creating a seed.

I would assume that the tubule can be any length [from the tip to the base]
so Clowntowns question about getting inside the calyx is not necessary but it helps the microtubule be shorter so the spermatocyte/spermatozoa reaches the ovum sooner.











I dont ferilize inside the flower room to ensure that the BOG preservation seeds have the best chance of being the exact cross I ahve said they would be.

But I am exacting and obscessive and a perfectionist.

Which is no fun.

At all.

sw
 
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W

Whatever

southwind said:
I dont ferilize inside the flower room to ensure that the BOG preservation seeds have the best chance of being the exact cross I ahve said they would be.
For sure if you release more than one type of pollen in the room it could be a 'problem'. If more than one type of fem then just unintended crosses which you know the mom and dad though...unless you got a hermie(s).

I'd think someone would have tested their fems to the point to see if they have hermie tendencies and those should have been eliminated from the grow already and not even been considered for breeding projects.
 

Pops

Resident pissy old man
Veteran
Get Mo, according to the botanists that I have read, the plant is fertilized after 20 minutes, if the pollen is good. After that, you can spray it down to kill the pollen. I cover one side of the plant and pollinate the other and mark the stems with pollinated buds with a twist tie.

Clowntown, just cover the white pistils with pollen. Plants that are pollinated early will bear seeds deep in the calyx. Plants that are pollinated later will have seeds closer to the surfave. Make sure that you give them a minimum of 30 days to develop.

Southwind is correct that you should remove the female. Do not pollinate in your flower room. Pollen is very tiny and light weight and will go all over the place. Someday, I will show you the 20,000 seeds I got from an accident(I threw away another 20,000 that were not ripe or not perfect).
 
J

jipedestran

Cool Guys

thanks for the responses. I am doing this because I can, and I don't have anything else cooking now.

I have had this same pheno of lifesaver growing now since 02. I had a Mothers finest that was recently lost (almost same age). I had saved the seeds from the original MF pack from Sensi. I got three live plants, from seeds that were at least six years old and stored in my garage. Two are looking male, and I just want to see what happens if I cross this. I have grown a few different strains, but never produced seed.

So my only question, we want to make sure that there is at least 30 days from pollination to seed maturity? or would 40 days be better?

peace
jip
 
W

Whatever

Pops said:
Make sure that you give them a minimum of 30 days to develop.
That's an 'at least'...yes more would be better and help insure greater viability. For shorter flowering strains, if you pollinated late, just cut off all your sinse, leave as many leaves as possible and let the pollinated buds mature a bit more. If you pollinate just about any strain early enough you really shouldn't have to worry though.

Each popcorn bud will about 25+ beans.
 
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