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otherwhitemeat's cabinet 2.0 (pics)

O

otherwhitemeat

Soooooooo....my first cab was an all metal locker thingy that was in the basement of my new house. My first attempt was pretty sub par, so I picked up some things as I went, solved some problems as I grew and here it is: cab 2.0!!!! Please provide any feedback or insights. I'll do my best to update it from time to time with new flower pics, harvest shots, and updates to the design.

First of all, here's cab 1.0, an amateurish attempt to take advantage of a box of gifted ballasts and bulbs. I bought a Can Fan, filter, and some Mylar and used a gifted 175 MH for veg, and a 250 hps for flowering. Bagseed NYC uptown weed (haze?). FFOF soil, PBP nutes, tried SCROGGING my last few runs; not crazy about it. Started some mothers/clones and quickly ran out of space.



Here's cab 2.0 from the outside, I picked it up from Craig's List for $40. Standard particle board and melamine cheapo design. Outside dimensions are 4'W x 2'D x 6'H


First up, some heavy duty casters mounted to 2x4s to make it easier to service the filters in the back, clean, upgrade, etc


One of the first obstacles to overcome was that the 'attic' space is way to big, reducing the headroom for the future female inhabitants. I pretty much disassembled the whole thing and expanded the center divider by adding another piece of melamine fiberboard, and using wooden dowels and Gorilla glue to hold it all together. I used ratchet straps from truck to clamp it all together while it dried. After it was dried, I predrilled and moved the metal pins up to accomodate the higher shelf height




Here's a closeup of the 'extension'


Then, I replaced the cardboard rear panel with a sheet of 5/8" plywood. I painted the inside flat white and caulked the seams. To keep everything neat and clean, I used coarse thread drywall screws (1" length) and predrilled and countersunk every hole. This gave the unit some sturdiness



Here's the general plan: flowering on the right, veg/clones/mothers on the left. Very soon, I am going to modify the veg room, moving the CFLs to the lower space and adding the 175MH for a 1-2 week veg period.


Next up, I added some drawer slides to make moving the flowering girls a bit easier. You can also see the PVC passive intakes in this photo. I sealed all the doors with epdm weatherstipping from Lowe's and took my time to ensure no light leaks. I used some old stockings to cap the pvc intsakes and keep bugs and stuff out. When the door is closed the fan sucks air through the cooltube and pretty much blasts the colas with fresh air from the floor level which it discharges at the top of the room(note the three VERY stretchy sativa colas)



On my last run, I did a SCROG...but I plan on modular SCROGging from now on so that I can have some variety in my cab. I want to have a few different varieties, but I only have the space for 4 in flower at any time. I will update pics soon on my mod SCROG idea....but I built two and hope the idea will work.

Next up, my pride and joy...a DIY cooltube for around $30.
-$8 for hurricane lamp glass at Michael's crafts
-$5 for some worm clamps
-$2 for pipe hanging strapping, from plumbing dept. at Lowe's
-$8 for the 4" rubber Clay Pipe Coupling, also from Lowe's plumbing dept
-$6 flexible dryer hose
Then, I just added my 250 HPS, and affixed the whole enchilada to the reflector pan. BAM! My canopy temps are holding at 78 F degrees now, before the cooltube I was lucky to get them below 85 F.




I shared this little secret on an earlier thread, but I used old inner tubes from my mountain bike to bridge the hinge edge on the door. And gorilla tape to hold it all together. All other edges got a double treatment of weather stripping.



Two Can Fans keep it ventilated and each discharges through the roof to it's own dedicated filter. These are not mounted in any way, I just set the fans on some rubber pipe couplings to deaden vibrations. Standard 4" stovepipe links it together. On the roof (not really pictured) I ran the stovepipe into 90 deg PVC elbows and right to the filters. I also tacked a wide power strip to the wall to hold my timers and plugs.


I kinda ran out of PVC and just decided to drill some holes in each shelf for the clone/veg/mother cab. Very low tech, but it works. Since the casters keep the cab raised about an inch off the floor, there is quite a rush of air coming in and washing over the plants.

Next up:
-build a facade on the roof and line it with polystrene foam, carpeting, mdf, etc to quiet the sound a bit. Make it look like boxes. It doesn't have to be superstealth as the cab itself sits in a basement utility room, but it sounds quite loud with the dual fan setup.
-Line the floor on the veg/clone/mother cab with a furnace filter to keep out dust and bugs
-Remodel the veg/clone/mother area a bit to accomodate the 175 MH and mod SCROGs
-Seal off door hinge on v/c/m area (hafta to get a flat on my mtn. bike first!)
-Finish mod SCROGs
-Get seeds (Papaya, Big Bug, Ak48) from safe addy and start some new girls!

Would love to hear your questions, feedback, and comments!
 
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why have the pvc pipe coming all the way into the flower room b4 elbowing again? does that restrict room in the flower cab? why not just elbow it at the rear wall?
 
O

otherwhitemeat

starrider, did you sort of 'hollow' out the two cabs to get greater depth? Or is one veg and one flower? Would love to see some pics of the inside (in case I need to pilfer ideas) Thanks for checking in.

Stalldaworld, I added the extra bend (and extensions) for two reasons: 1) I want to do away with having an oscillating fan in the flowering space, I just don't have the real estate. By directing the intakes upward, toward the canopy I create a constant rush of air right at the buds. 2) To act as an additional light filter. The design I started with had one bend and allowed a bit of light into my flowering space. I spaced the intakes to allow for my mod-SCROG bracing (to be photographed soon) and the main trunk for each plant. We'll see if I calculated right in about a day or so!

My thinking was that if I have 4 ea of the 2" PVC pipes that's twice the diameter of the fan (4"). Factor in the restriction of the cooltube and extra intake bends and I have a good negative pressure to suck the door seal shut tight and keep the smell headed toward the filter. I am sure someone with a lot more insight into fluid dynamics can shed some light here.
 

hoosierdaddy

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
otherwhite meat...want me to help you get your air where it needs to be?
OK,...a 4" round duct has a entrance surface area of ~12.56"
A 2" round duct (or pipe) has an entrance surface area of 3.14"
See you have about half the intake opening you need. When you double up on things your cab will change in how it acts.

I'm sure you simply said hey, 2 is half of 4...but it doesn't work that way with circular geometry.

To figure the surface area of a circle use the following formula:
radius x radius x Pi

The radius is half the distance across the middle of the pipe, so a 2" pipe has a radius of 1"
Pi is always expressed as 3.141 If you take the full distance across the pipe, that is the diameter of the pipe. The diameter distance will fit around the circumference of that pipe exactly 3.141 times.

OK..a 2" pipe
1 x 1 = 1
1x 3.141 = 3.141
A 2" pipe has 3.141 sq inches of entrance surface area.

Do the formula with the 4" and you will see what I mean.
 
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O

otherwhitemeat

starrider, that's a very nice setup. Thumbs up on the DIY carbon scrubber! It hadn't even occurred to me to do the back to back thing! very smart! Denis Leary was right "Pot doesn't lead to other drugs, it leads to CARPENTRY" haha.

Hoosierdaddy, you should just come to my house and fix my cab...I'll provide the food and the buds and you provide the slide rule! Circular geometry eludes me. :) Watch (but please don't laugh; I'm a politician not a mathmetician)...

If....
a 4" round duct has a entrance surface area of ~12.56"
A 2" round duct (or pipe) has an entrance surface area of 3.14"

If I have four 2" ducts (4 * 3.14=12.56) so I should have roughly the same surface area as a 4" duct, right? The only problem is I haven't taken into account the restriction of the the 90 bends, and the DIY cooltube.

When you said 'When you double up on things your cab will change in how it acts.' I was kinda gauging things on whether or not the door sucked shut, without changing the audible pitch of the fan too much. If the door doesn't suck shut the light seals won't work; if the door sucks shut and the fan pitch changes considerably, I am just reducing fan life, right? The good news is that the temp is holding in my flower room at just about 5 degrees over ambient.

Ah hell, do you think 4 of the 2" openings is enough? It seemed like it made so much sense when I was high...




Anyway, here are some pics of some recent additions:

Here's my modular scrog vegging under a 175w MH lamp



And here's a few pics of my mod scrog and sliding tray. I kinda designed it to not interfere with the air intakes, so hopefully my design in somewhat sound...

Tray in:


Tray out:

 

hoosierdaddy

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I think you are going to have (do have) an awesome set-up. And yes, you are correct that 4 x 2" openings equals 1 x 4". So yes, you have essentially the same intake and exhaust size.

OK...I have a cab that has separate veg and flower chambers and a total of 20" x 23" x 56"
The air going trhough my veg chamber also is used in my ac unit...I have 13 x 2" 90's
Yes, 13!

The flower chamber has a 6" exhaust and I have 8 x 2" 90's.
I did have 6 and temps toward the top at about 85-95 degF...after installing an additional 2 90's, my temps went down a full 10 degrees.

If you are using regular PVC 90's, you can disregard the resistance of the 90 deg turn.
It is a wash due to the slick turn and a physical event happening with the air.
Not so with other ducts, but with PVC, forget worrying about the turns.

Hope I was some help.
Rock on.
 

FreezerBoy

Was blind but now IC Puckbunny in Training
Veteran
otherwhitemeat said:
Hoosierdaddy, you should just come to my house and fix my cab...
LOL. If it were only that easy ...

Great looking cab. If you've given up ScROG for large uni-colas, have you considered hanging the lamp vertically?
 
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otherwhitemeat

Hoosier, good to know that my wild ass stoned musings resulted in the correct calculations....unconscious competence, I think is the term...heheh

Freez, you've been giving me guidance since I was a confused newb, honored to see you stop by the thread, sir! The unicolas thing was more of a fluke than anything else. Those ginormous arm sized buds you see were the result of a late stretch... I had four Sativa dom bagseed (Haze crosss?) clones and flowered to about 11.5 weeks, already pulled (and cured) a bit over a QP from the 4 girls and just had these huge fucking stretchy things...I decided to leave them in flower for another few weeks while I finish vegging the clones. At this point, I am just curious what they are going to do! They are easily the size of large soda bottles, but the outer surfaces are still making pistils, while the inside is getting dry and dusty. I may leave them another week and then cut them down, making BHO out of all that's not fit to smoke.

I like the SCROG notion overall, as it was very good to me this run...but it was kind of a pain in terms of watering and removal of dead leaf material.

I've noticed that since I am kinda new to cloning, I wind up having odd sized plants, and some mature quicker than others....maybe I just don't have it dialed in...But that's why I am hoping that running a few Indicas and mod scrog will let me keep the Hazes going and have an Indica every now and again too. I thought about SOG, but just wasn't sure this was the right method for me....

At any rate, since you guys stopped by, here's some jar porn. Weight now is a few g's over a QP and once I kill those megacolas, I beleive I will have cleared 4.5-5 oz...Not bad for a third run, IMO..


 

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