Rust

[Prof Sublime]

Hey my one plant has rust marks showing up and curly qued leaves.

Background. This plant recently fell a foot and a half an landed plant down It could of been exposed to the soil mix and water run off. This was 2 days ago.


Strain of Mj? Bagseed
Hydroponic or soil? Soil
From seed or clone? Seed
Age of plant in question? 18 days
What stage (Veg/Flower; how many days into)? Veg
Medium (Soil, Rockwool, Hydroton etc.)? Soil
Container/Pot size? 18oz
Have they been transplanted, if so how long ago? 2 days ago
If soil, composition ratios (peat moss, perilite, vermiculite etc.)? Equal parts of Shultz Organic soil, FoxFarm guano an ewc (the red bag), Perlite
Water Nutrients added? None, jus ewc, molasess with spring water
Feeding schedule? Eh every 1-2 days.
When were they last fed/watered? 2 days
How are you determining when to feed/water (weight, wilting, etc.)? Weight and time
Light intensity/Age of bulb/Wattage? CFl 27 watt 5400k X3, brand new
Distance to the canopy? 2-3 inches
Temps at canopy? Low 80's
Temps at root zone or reservoir? Same
Is there air blowing directly onto plant? NO
Relative humidity? SHOULD be pretty high

The soil has 1tbls of Blood, and Kelp meal, 2 tbls Dolomited Lime and Bone meal per 1 gallon. For the Nutes.

My ideas of the rust coloring is:
A. The plant falling
B. The light possibly burning it

Any help is appreciated, its not that serious right now but, the sooner its taken care of the bettter.
THANKS FOR THE HELP
Smoke on

 

[Guest]

Your water has no Cal/mag in it. I would stop watering so often and the next time they need water (when the top layer of soil is crumbly) Add a teaspoon of epson salt to one gallon of water.,,Good luck with your grow, peace

 

[billb]

get some calmag. works wonders.

 

[Prof Sublime]

I appreciate yalls help. But, If im not mistaken isnt the dolomite lime that I have in my mix going to provide me with the cal/mag?? As well as control my ph.
I didnt mention this but, there are 5 other plants growing w/o and rust problems.

 

[Guest]

Lime buffers the soil's acidity so your soils ph will be able to let your plants get what it needs when it needs it, But I don't think it adds cal or mag. nether does ph ing your water. If you had a reverse osmoses system you would need to add cal/mag, if you was using well water in the country that all ready has minerals you may not need to add any.

 

[inflorescence]

Your problem doesn't look like cal mag to me.

 

[Prof Sublime]

Today the rust is neither more nor less, and the other plants all look fine. I dont know what the problem is, maybe just stress. Im just going to take your advice about the watering. Im going to let it go and just watch it, well see what happens.

Edit: A little research shows that lime is atleast 50% calcium carbonate and dolomite is over 50% calcium-magnesium carbonate.

http://www.jerusalemstoneusa.com/dolomite.html


Thanks for the help though yall.

 

[master shake]

looks overwatered, pop the rootball out of the cup and look at what color the roots are. If they're not nice and white I would try and remove as much wet dirt and dead roots as possible, and transplant into some dried soil.

 

[Prof Sublime]

Thanks Master shake, Its been 2 days so the soil has dried out quite well I would think. Im just leaving it alone, 2 are showing small spots on the very first leave set, which is just the set that 1st comes out from the seedlings, not on any new growth. Im gonna let all of them dry out and start a watering schedual for them to keep this from happening again.

Thanks for the help everyone.

 

[Prof Sublime]

I guess I overwatered it. The plant is looking fine and doing great. So are the rest of my plants.
Thanks everyone for your help.

Pic taken a 3 days ago. You can see how some got over watered some, but all is looking even better now.

 

[HeadyPete]

You both overwatered and overfed. Those "rust" spots are burn from overfeeding and if I'm not mistaken, looking at what you have fed, they will get worse before they get better. Which soil exactly did you use? Can you give me a link to the exact label?

Plants from seeds need a soil with no nutes in it at all. No nutes in the water either, for the first 7-10 days. Seedlings get their first food from their cotyledons, or first leaves. After that, light feeding.

Under the minimal amount of light you are providing, they need even less food. See how dark green they are? Plenty of food.

I'd flush them with plain ph'd water for a week, then start with a 1/2 strength liquid grow once a week after that with plain water in between, if necessary, and see how they like that. Dark green leaves with brown patches, leaf tip or edge burn means too hot. Yellowing lower leaves progressing up means lack of nitrogen - feed more.

Also, twisty leaves mean ph problem, which leads to lockouts, and guanos are acidic. You should test runoff ph to get an idea of soil ph. When you overfeed, microbial action in the soil increases greatly, and with this ph drops accordingly.

Dolomite does buffer and raise ph, but in reality dolomite takes months to break down in the soil and become active and give available cal and mag. Commercial soils with this added (or hydrated lime which is fast acting) are "cooked" or aged to give the microbes a chance to start breaking everything down for the plants to use. Any dolomite you add to your plants will not affect them in there natural life span, most likely.

 

[Space Ghost]

transplant!

 

[inflorescence]

Dolomite does buffer and raise ph, but in reality dolomite takes months to break down in the soil and become active and give available cal and mag. Commercial soils with this added (or hydrated lime which is fast acting) are "cooked" or aged to give the microbes a chance to start breaking everything down for the plants to use. Any dolomite you add to your plants will not affect them in there natural life span, most likely.

That's why I buy silk screen and sift my own dolo so I can get a "working" dolo for my "half annual" MJ plant.

As you can see from the graph, any dolo not 60-80 mesh (passthru) will not raise your pH even 1 point (from pH 5 to pH 6 in 6 months) so it is essentially worthless for a "half annual".

Many dolo labels do list mesh passthru size so be sure to check this because different brands vary CONSIDERABLY.

Most all other plants in the garden are fine with regular dolo with varying sizes mixed in but soiless MJ needs very fine sifted dolo because of it's short lifespan, as you mentioned.

HeadyPete comes thru AGAIN!

 

[Prof Sublime]

I dunno, I watered them after that picture and its been about 3 days and they are looking awesome. Im not doing anything, they look good. But, I dont want to sound like an ass, I appreciate the help. What exactly is it that you wanted to know? The only nutes I have in the soil are bone, blood, kelp meals.

 

[HeadyPete]

what exact shultz soil did you use? Is there time release fertilizer in it like there is in most of those soils? If there is, you will have problems.

The only nutes I have in the soil are bone, blood, kelp meals.

....and Foxfarm guano, and worm casting, and molasses......... and all this is starting to breakdown and release nutrients into your soil and it looks like a lot of food to give to such young plants, under weak light like your 81 watts of CFL. Guanos, blood and bone meals are usually pretty potent ferts with numbers like 9-0 and 0-12-0 for blood and bone, and guanos can be high N or high P, depending on the diet of the animal that made the guano. Insect eating bats give high N guano and fruit eating bats give high P guano.

Hopefully everything is fine and you won't be back in a week or two with fried plants.

cool graph, Inflorescence, thanks.

 

[Prof Sublime]

Well I am using the Schultz organic mix, which does have slow release nutes, which sucks. The mix did get to sit for a little over 2 weeks to help things breakdown before the plants seen it. They were started in 100% FF soil mix. So far no frying is going on at all. I think it maybe just took a day or two for the plants to get use to the abundunce of the nutes.
I will say that I just checked them now, and they are still doing GREAT. They have good looking new growth and their stems are really fattening up. Ill get some pictures tommorow afternoon and Im gonna water them as well.

Thanks for the help ALOT, atleast if they do fry in a few weeks, Ill have a plan ready for attack.

My next grow WILL be using a better mix. So I dont have to worry too much.

 

[HeadyPete]

I wish you good luck. btw I think that time release nute is supposed to last 9 months, if this is the bag you used:

Organic fertilizers take some time to break down in the soil before they become available to the plant as food. Keep this in mind. If you want to feed now you should have given it last week. Always think a week ahead with organics. I can guarantee there is more food in there than a couple days worth, more likely it hasn't become available yet....so watch them closely.

Any soil labeled seed starting mix should contain zero nutrients and is the right choice for seedlings and clones. Check the label. The Shultz brand even has nutes in it's seedling mix. Light Warrior would be a good Fox Farm product and straight coco would be another option and probably cheaper.

If they start burning, transplant into a seed starting mix asap, and feed some plain water until you get some good new growth with no tip burn or burning edges. Any previously damaged leaves will continue to die so don't mistake this with a continuing overfeeding problem, again look at the tips and new growth on the tops.

 

[Prof Sublime]

This is the bag I used.

And I did let my mix sit 2 weeks before I put my plants in it so things would have time to break down. Here are my plants as of dismoring. Thanks for your time and help headypete.