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Howard Ballast kit...

donpuro

Member
Would anyone happen to have an assembled 400 watt Howard Ballast kit picture.. similar to Simba's in the CMH thread. I saw some for lower wattage kits but not the 400.


Thanks in advance everyone :joint:
 
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messn'n'gommin'

ember
Veteran
If you go to htgsupply com and click on ballasts on the left of the page it will take you to prefabbed ballasts and ballast kits. Go to ballast kits and click on any wattage ballast and then click more info. Just below the ballast pic are links for 2 pdf pages of how-to pics and instructions. They are pretty straightforward, simple, and concise.

Namaste, mess
 

donpuro

Member
The instructions for the HTG ballast kits are the same as for the Howard ones? Thanks messn

Also, Is it ok to use romex 12/2 cable for the wiring between wall -> ballast and ballast -> lamp? I am using a 120v plug and plan on getting a 15-20 amp fuse.. the instructions recommend 15 for 400watts at 120v but would it matter if I upped it to 20?
 
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messn'n'gommin'

ember
Veteran
donpuro said:
The instructions for the HTG ballast kits are the same as for the Howard ones? Thanks messn

Also, Is it ok to use romex 12/2 cable for the wiring between wall -> ballast and ballast -> lamp? I am using a 120v plug and plan on getting a 15-20 amp fuse.. the instructions recommend 15 for 400watts at 120v but would it matter if I upped it to 20?

Truthfully, I don't know if they are specific to Howard ballasts or not, but ballasts are (more or less) pretty much standard. If you have any doubts about them, you could try the ballast manufacturer's site for clarification.

The thicker the wire the less the resistance for flow of electricity. So, ya, 12/2 is fine. The reason for the fuse is a safety measure. If the resistance is high enough, the wiring will heat up and possibly cause a fire. The fuse's purpose is to "interrupt" the flow by burning through before the wiring does. If there is a lot of resistance and the recommended fuse is 15 amp and you have a 20 amp, the temps could exceed what the wiring can handle before the fuse blows. So I would reconsider going above the recommended rating. That being said, I think 12/2 romex for 400w's will be fine without the fuse, BUT the 15 amp fuse is STILL a good idea though. Any added measure of electrical safety is NEVER a bad idea, IMHO.

BTW: In my previous post I failed to mention that on the "ballast kit" page make sure it is for your particular ballast (i.e. HPS or MH).

Namaste, mess
 

donpuro

Member
I see... I picked up a 20amp fuse holder and 20 amp ceramic fuses that are rated for 240v. I guess I should return them.... They did not have the 15amp ones.
 

messn'n'gommin'

ember
Veteran
Are you setting up your ballast to run on 240v or 120v? Also, is there some particular reason that you feel that the ballast pic on the CMH thread or the ones at htgsupply don't apply to the Howard?
 

donpuro

Member
it is being setup at 120volts. I just wanted to make sure they were the same thing and not blow anything up.

edit ->

also my 12/2 romex has solid copper wiring... I dont think the twist on wire connectors will work very well on these.Should I solder them?
 
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messn'n'gommin'

ember
Veteran
Just take your time, follow the directions, and double check everything as you go. Then when your all done, TRIPLE check. When your satisfied that you correctly have everything put together, plug in your light and give it a test run for 30 to 60 mins.

Also, the htgsupply pics make no mention of the ground wire. Make sure you ground the ballast power cord to the ballast box (or at least the rail) and the lamp power cord to the reflector.
 

donpuro

Member
Thanks alot messn for all of the replies. Would you happen to know where else I can get 15 amp fuse holders / fuses besides radioshack? Mine seems to be all out.
 

messn'n'gommin'

ember
Veteran
donpuro said:
edit ->

also my 12/2 romex has solid copper wiring... I dont think the twist on wire connectors will work very well on these.Should I solder them?

You could, but if you haven't opened the box you might want to consider buying a HEAVY duty extension cord and an extra male plug. I used a 25' 12/2 extension cord ($19) and extra plugs (3 males and a female...about $15) for 2-250w mag ballasts for my CMH's. With a 2' igniter, they haven't failed to fire yet. (thanks Simba! :wave: )
 

donpuro

Member
I had alot of 12/2 romex laying around... so was I correct in thinking those wirenuts wont work very well on that romex? o_O I really have no idea.

I saw somebody using that extension cord setup looked convenient but I am trying to make do with what I have.... I may just chop the end off of a PC power cable and see if that works well.... If I do solder the romex would electrical tape be sufficient to cover the soldered portion?
 

messn'n'gommin'

ember
Veteran
donpuro said:
Thanks alot messn for all of the replies. Would you happen to know where else I can get 15 amp fuse holders / fuses besides radioshack? Mine seems to be all out.

You could try a home improvement or an electrical supply store. They (especially electrical supply) will usually be a bit cheaper and a bit more knowledgeable than Radio Shack. If you do go that route they will probably ask you "Why?" Just tell them you are putting up a "security light" for your self/parents/grandparents, etc.

I have never had any dealings with Romex, but as far as using wire nuts on the Romex connections, try it and give them a good yank. If they hold up, no problem, and if not soldering would be ok too. But I would use some heatshrink tubing for that as I don't think electrical tape will hold up very well with the heat a ballast will produce.

And NO, do NOT use the cut end of a pc power cord (most likely 18AWG). It will cause a "bottleneck" and just about assure you of an overload. A home improvement or electrical supply place will have the kind of plugs you need. A few bucks maybe, but what is the peace of mind you will have in your handywork when done correctly as compared to "wtf...it works?" Electricity is not very forgiving.
 
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donpuro

Member
:D Yea I want to do it correctly and not have to worry about anything arcing and exploding. I bought a heavy duty 120v plug from lowes a while ago and fit it onto the end of the romex. I will probably try the wire connectors first but solder and heatshrink sound pretty nice too.

also I spoke with the shop I bought the ballast kit from and he told me that I could use the 20 amp fuse and it would work.. but since its also a 240v 20amp fuse he said running at 120v it would = a 40 amp fuse? So although it would run fine if anything happened the fuse would never blow. He recommended that if I cant find the 15amp 120v fuses I should get a 6 or 8 amp 240v fuse... can anyone confirm this?

Thanks guys
 

donpuro

Member
messn'n'gommin' said:
Just take your time, follow the directions, and double check everything as you go. Then when your all done, TRIPLE check. When your satisfied that you correctly have everything put together, plug in your light and give it a test run for 30 to 60 mins.

Also, the htgsupply pics make no mention of the ground wire. Make sure you ground the ballast power cord to the ballast box (or at least the rail) and the lamp power cord to the reflector.


Do i connect the lamps ground wire to the power sources ground that i attached to the rail? I know I have to ground the hood but I wasnt sure where to connect that ground

also.. simba's pictures on page 102 of the CMH thread show the capacitor being wired up in a weird way... the HTG supply manuals say nothing about connecting the capacitor to anything but the two CAP wires... I just tried firing up my bulb using HTGs directions and nothing happened is it suppose to fire right away?

edit -> I was able to find 15 amp 120v compatible fuses at home depot in the electrical section.

advtechlighting is releasing pictures on their website tonight of assembled Howard ballast kits. :smoker:
 
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messn'n'gommin'

ember
Veteran
Ya...the setup is power cord from outlet to ground attached to ballast box/transformer rail, lamp power cord attached to ballast box/transformer rail to attached to reflector. You can use the same bolt for both at the ballast box

I will double check my info on wiring the capacitor for you. It is my understanding that it can take several seconds but more or less, ya...it should fire up. In the mean time (and I know you're anxious to get started) don't fire it up again for now.

Good! on the fuse thing. You're doing all the right things.

Thanks! I will try to make it to their site and see if I can copy it to my how-to files.
 

messn'n'gommin'

ember
Veteran
donpuro, is your ballast more like the one pictured in simba's or the one at htg? The only difference I can see in them is the one in simba's has one cap wire and a ground wire coming out of the ballast and the one at htg has two cap wires and no ground wires. Which ballast is yours most similar to? I can't read the label on the one in simba's but he has said he liked Howard ballasts best and I thought that that one may have been a Howard.
 

donpuro

Member
mine has two cap wires.. it is similar to the HTG instructions you directed me to... but then Im pretty sure simba's are htg too..
 

messn'n'gommin'

ember
Veteran
The pic Simba used is ATL's. Hope this may helps.

http://www.advancedtechlighting.com/img/6xx2xxcontsantwattageautotransformerBallastdiagram.jpg

If your ballast is like the one on htg's instructional, it should fire. There is the possibility you may have gotten a wire on the wrong connection. Do you have pic's of your ballast and wiring? You could try starting over again and going back to square one and being VERY sure you have everything EXACTLY like the pic's in the instructional. If nothing else, you can go to the CMH page and ask Simba himself.
 
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donpuro

Member
I just tried firing it up again and was greeted by the magnificent glow of CMH... nothing was changed i must have just been paranoid last night and shut it off to quickly. Thanks messn for all your help... i love ic :D

now to finish my mailbox hood :D

er also is there any amount of time i should wait after unplugging the ballast before working on it / moving things... like the capacitor still being electrically charged or something :S i don't want to get electrocuted.

one last question hopefully :D... how far do people usually place their capacitors from the core? I wanted to use that metal bread pan ballast housing I saw in a thread here. It is pretty tight though would it be possible to mount the capacitor horizontally? I'm just worried about the core getting too hot and melting the capacitor...
 
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