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Recirculating Coco?

T

TwinTurboGuy

For those that have recirculating coco systems, how often do you guys change your res before you start getting salt build up and PH flux? Is it a safe play to change your res everyone 4-5 days?
 

word

Member
i stop the recirc in coco after a few runs (e&f)..... PH flux and buildup 4 sure... i found out that coco is best in a feed 2 waste with fresh feed every time... theres something in the coco that has to cause this...
 

knna

Member
I disagree, in the sense there is nothing inherent to coco that does it unsuitable for recirculating e&f.

It just due to the high CEC of coco, adecuate Ca-Mg control by ph management is required. Ph management becomes more demandant with high CEC, thats all.

Very often the problem is insufficient Ca uptake due to the use of high ph ranges (constantly over 5,8), leading to Ca accumulatting in coco and finally, to a salts lock out. But coco isnt responsible of that, but a inadecuate ph management.

I dont change the res along all the grow, i just refill it, and i have never had any mayor problem. But to do this, there are some requeriments. First one, to use for some time ph below 5,8 in order to enhance Ca uptake, and second, good water quality (or RO water). As lower the Ca and Na in water, the longer you can recirculate it.
 

mme_oscar

Active member
TwinTurboGuy said:
For those that have recirculating coco systems, how often do you guys change your res before you start getting salt build up and PH flux? Is it a safe play to change your res everyone 4-5 days?

Yo my 0.2...

I've never had any salt build-up (well I had OD due to high EC but no proper accumulation).
I just change my res once a week when it gets real low... I mostly keep EC below 1.9 (including tap water EC)... No lack...
Don't be too anxious about pH, just keep it in a range! I allow it to increase a bit on a week (like +0.2/+0.4)...
I also flush sometimes (well no rules, when I think they need it)...

In general no pH/EC problems...

+++
 

FGandalf

Member
I have experience like this in my coco setup. I have coco in square pots mounted in the top of a big rubbermade container. I use drippers and recirculate. What i find is that i can just keep topping off the res water with my tap water. I make sure the ph is about 5.8 when i mix the first batch of Flora nova and some LK and is about 750-800 ppm then after about 2-4 days depending on how big the plans are the temps and humidity i will have to add some water because the ppms have gotten to 1050-1100 sometimes a bit less. The ph has gone to 6.0-6.2 and i add some water and bring it back to about 800 or so and the ph goes to about 6.0. 3-5 days go by and the next time it will get a bit more water and a small amount of flora nova and the ph will get back near 5.9 and the ppms will be about 800 again. Sometimes i can add water for 3 times to every add of flora nova. I just keep bringing it back to 800 and 5.8-6.2 I think the swing in ph and nutrients is ok and allows the plants to eat a bit of everything at the best or better ph for uptake of a particular element. Does that make sense? I grow with a 400w cmh and i use a scrog. Hope that helps some. :rasta:
 

MedResearcher

Member
Veteran
I use the same rez for the entire flowering period :p

Just have to add water, and keep the EC and PH monitored and adjusted.


Probably good to change it once a month though, 2 months is sort of pushing it. Some strains may use up more of certain nutes and throw it off balance.


I only see salt build up, if I try to push the EC too high, and or I dont water with enough run off. I think the run off is key, and its nice in recirc because your not wasting so you can easily go 50% run off to make sure the salts dont build up.
 
G

Guest

you can have salt buildup probs in coco only when you don't get enough water through the root zone at each watering. top feeding puts water/nutes through the pot from top to bottom with runoff, flushing each time. ebb/flow soaks from the bottom up so not much flush action...more of a soak. depending on dry out time between waterings and plant size salt buildup can happen easily.
 

knna

Member
turbotanical said:
you can have salt buildup probs in coco only when you don't get enough water through the root zone at each watering. top feeding puts water/nutes through the pot from top to bottom with runoff, flushing each time. ebb/flow soaks from the bottom up so not much flush action...more of a soak. depending on dry out time between waterings and plant size salt buildup can happen easily.

The main caracteristic of coco if its high CEC (cation exchange capacity). Cations get bonded to coco's colloids and just flushing/ abundant run off is unuseless to get rid of them. In order to grow with coco without problems, you need to keep cation presence in the media balanced by ph management and nute profiling.

Each one at his own, but insisting on flushing being the solution against salts build up is absolutelly false, and it simply dont work in real world.
 
G

Guest

knna said:
The main caracteristic of coco if its high CEC (cation exchange capacity). Cations get bonded to coco's colloids and just flushing/ abundant run off is unuseless to get rid of them. In order to grow with coco without problems, you need to keep cation presence in the media balanced by ph management and nute profiling.

Each one at his own, but insisting on flushing being the solution against salts build up is absolutelly false, and it simply dont work in real world.


Sounds like you read more than you grow :smile: Sure coco has a high CEC but that has nothing to do with what I said. You are talking about an overfeeding problem and I am not. I'm talking about methods in which you deliver water and nutes to your plants. In some cases based on pot size, plant size, and watering frequencies E&F method can cause salt buildup leading to ph probs in coco that would not otherwise occur in a top feed set up using the SAME nute strength. Top feeding keeps the root zone more consistent by virtue of running water from the top of the pot through the pot allowing runoff just like drain to waste. This AVOIDS salt issues that may occur in E&F.. not a fix for an overfeeding prob like you are referring to.

To answer TwinTurbo's question a rez change is not necesarry to keep ph and buildup in check. Proper nute strenght is mainly responsible for that along with getting enough water through the pots at each watering.
 

bounty29

Custom User Title
Veteran
lol turbo knna knows what he's talking about, show some respect

I recirculate for 7-10 days before I start fresh, I have a 5 gallon res and rarely go over 1.0ec, using GH 3 part products.
 

knna

Member
Sounds like you read more than you grow

Dont confuse yourself by my low post count here, and by the fact i havent done any journal here. From that viewpoint, you with 23 post and less than one year old arnt the most adecuate person to say it.

I grow continuosly since years ago, and at my home there was always pot and Mj plants since i have memory. The fact i like to read and study botany dont mean i havent experience growing, but i not only have my own experience to learn.

The fact you dont know there is a problem not mean it doesnt exist, just mean you cant see it although it is in front of your eyes. Knowing some "theory" allows you to be a better grower in the practice. And BTW, you are victim of the extended belief of intelectual knowledge opposed to actual practice.

So im going to insist in a fact many, many people arnt aware of. Coco's colloids, as soil's colloid are negativelly charged (the only difference is coco have way more colloid avalaible per cubic ft). Cations are uptaked from that colloids mainly, and roots exchange a H charged ion for each cation they uptake. Running water through the media dont get rid of cations, because they are electrically bonded to the colloid. You need to use a solution with cations with stronger electrical charge than the cations you want to replace. If not, most cations keep bonded to their colloid independtly of the water you throw on it.

Bivalent Ca++ cation have the stronger electrical charge of cations used widely by plants. Either K and Mg cations cant displace it. Join that with the fact that Ca is the element with the slower uptake speed by far and you get that Ca tends to accumulate in the coco if you give more Ca than plants needs and still when feeding the right amounts of Ca, when ph dont help uptaking it. Due most tap waters have a Ca content, sometimes very high, and the extended practice of using Cal-mg often to fight a Mg deff, leads to most coco colloids get bonded to Ca cations. As other important cations, as Mg and K, cant find free colloid to get bonded to, plants cant uptake them, so the resulting Mg and K deff. Then people says they are having a "salts build up", because alhtough they are using the right nutes and ph, plants shows massive deffs.

This is a case when the own name of the problem affect how we fight against it. Thinking on "salts build up" leads to try to solve it by flushing. Howewer, the problem itself isnt a salts build up, but a imbalance between salts in the media, wich cannot be fighted by flushing, but must be solved by ph management and matching nute profiling with plant's needs.

Very often, flushing get rid of a small percentage of cations, and it seems the problem has been solved. But if we dont help our plants uptaking Ca, then the new accumulating Ca++ occupe the remaining free colloids, making to uptake Mg and/or K more difficult than before.

But people very often dont see the conection with what happened 2 weeks before, as often the first deff to show is the Mg one, while the K one, due its very fast uptake speed needs just a small percentage of colloids. But after the "solveing" flush, what happened is Ca has occupied those colloid, so at the second stage what people gets is a K deff. So they dont do the conection between the first Mg deff and the second K deff, while both have the same cause.

So lets stop to talk about "salt build up" and talk a little more about salt unbalancing, wich are responsible of 90% of cations deffs.

Peace,
knna
 
G

Guest

Sounds like you read more than you grow

You're getting lost knna.... it's much simpler that that. Take a step back man..lol

I've been growing 365 days a year non-stop since 2003 in coco. I've grown thousands of plants and have used different methods. I've learned from my mistakes and real life hands on experience which is the best way to learn imo. Never read a book on botany and probably never will. I only offer advise from my own experience, not from what I read or heard from someone.

I started using coco in E&F.. that lasted about a year. The reason I quit using E&F is this: I changed strains and used a bit bigger pot than I was normaly using. During a flood cycle only the bottom 4" or so got truly flooded in the bigger pot. the rest of the root zone wicked up the water. As the plants got bigger and used more water the pots would dry more between waterings and salts would accumulate. Eventually the plants health degraded so I started to look for the cause. My rez was always ph 5.8 and ec was 1.2. I found the probelm when I checked the runoff from the pots. Plain water going in was ph 6 ec 0. The runoff pegged my meter... it was higher than ec 3.0 and ph was 4.5. Essentially it was how I had the E&F set up that caused this, I wasn't overfeeding it was because there wasn't enough water exchange through the pot at each watering with too much dry time.... just as I posted earlier.

I was at day 40ish at this point and I salvaged the crop by hand flushing each of the 140, 3' tall plants by hand every other day. I was able to pull 1.5# per light BY FLUSHING OUT SALTS. So yeah, I learned a lesson on this. After that fiasco I went to top feed and never had any such issue.

To summarize in plain English without the mumbo jumbo professor talk: When runoff water from a pot shows a higher ec value than the water going in that means that excess salts are being removed from the root zone. And I do understand cations and holding capacity but tell me what do you think happens to the nutes once the coco's cation holding capacity is reached? It doesn't dissapear, it has to go somewhere and when it accumulates in the pot it will cause buildup and ph problems. Simple as that.
 
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knna

Member
One thing is to use a EC too high, wich is one of the main things you shouldnt do (its far easier to fix a underfeeding than a overfeeding), and other how to recirculate a NS in coco.

Any media gets saturated of nutes when you use a too high nute's concentration. Any. And the right treatment is to flush. Right. The only own coco's caracteristic about that is due its high CEC, it can store more nutes than other medias. So you can get a drain EC over 2 (flushing with plain water) and plants being absolutelly healthy. In fact, drainage's EC from coco is usually way higher than with any other media.

But that isnt any problem to recirculate in coco. Its a general problem about growing plants at any media. You shouldnt use ECs higher than your plants can manage. But in fact coco is forgiving about that, its more permisible about puntual overfeedings (not at all if the overfeeding is continous) than most medias.

So, to answer the original problem, the "salts build up" when recirculating coco isnt directly related to overfeeding (although it may be a problem as with any other media). Having a lock out due to excessive salts added is sign of little experience growing, for wanting to push your plants harder than you know to drive them. Howewer, many people have problems when recirculating coco, and it isnt caused by too high ECs, but to a bad ph management. And just a simple rule of thumb, to let ph below 5,8 for some time aswell as over it (or a constant ~5,8, more difficult to keep stable) is the key, together with avoiding hard water or excess Ca added, to sucesfully finish a coco grow recirculating the NS.

For me, the disscussion is over, all the arguments explained. People reading the thread must decide what way to use. If they decide to ignore my viewpoint because my "mumbo jumbo proffesor talk", its their decission and their gardens, not mine.

BTW, i grow with CFLs. Do you get plants as mines using 40w/sq ft of CFLs?
 
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knna

Member
I forget to comment turbotanical's issue with an e&f table. Your problem was to use a lower flood height than your plants required. In order to use the best a e&f table, you must match the height and duration of floods to the size of pots. Thats why good e&f tables has a height adjustable overflow.

With coco i reccomend to set flood's height at least to half the height of pots. I use around 3/4 pot's height and a handwatering each two weeks.
 
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G

Guest

knna said:
Howewer, many people have problems when recirculating coco, and it isnt caused by too high ECs, but to a bad ph management.

I disagree. Coco is very efficient at delivering nutes to plants (CEC) and most people feed too much in coco especially when recirculating. This leads to fluctuating ph. A properly fed recirculating coco set up will have a solid ph and will grow great plants in a range of ph levels. No need to overanalyze things...

For me, the disscussion is over, all the arguments explained. People reading the thread must decide what way to use. If they decide to ignore my viewpoint because my "mumbo jumbo proffesor talk", its their decission and their gardens, not mine.

Nothing wrong with a good debate and besides you are now agreeing with what I said in the first place :chin:

I forget to comment turbotanical's issue with an e&f table. Your problem was to use a lower flood height than your plants required.

Thanks for reiterating what I just said. So you get in now?

In order to use the best a e&f table, you must match the height and duration of floods to the size of pots. Thats why good e&f tables has a height adjustable overflow.

With coco i reccomend to set flood's height at least to half the height of pots. I use around 3/4 pot's height and a handwatering each two weeks.

You started this debate by challenging my first post in this thread and now you are saying the exact same thing that you disagreed with me on. The reason to match the flood height to the pots is to get sufficient water exchange through the root zone and when you don't have enough water exchange you can encounter salt buildup. I suspect that's why you hand water (flush) every two weeks as well but I doubt you'll admit that.
 
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krunchbubble

Dear Haters, I Have So Much More For You To Be Mad
Veteran
years ago i was recirculating using drippers in coco with no problems at all. i was hitting sour diesel with 4400 ppm without realizing till i got a trungen stick. pulling buds the size of footballs. i flushed by hand watering out of my tap once a week.
i since went to rockwool and now im going back to coco.
 

knna

Member
Nothing wrong with a good debate and besides you are now agreeing with what I said in the first place

I dont know if we you are reading what i wrote of if simply i explain very bad. Its possible because english is my second lenguaje.

But anyway it seems you only read and notice what you want to. So im going to recapitulate again and try to explain my points better, following how we explained our points. Maybe this way you will realize im not agreeing your first statement at all, and how yourself has showed at what degree it was wrong.

1- Original question: TwinTurboGuy ask for some feedback about how often he may use a fresh res to have sucessfull grows recirculating in coco.

2-First turbo's post:
you can have salt buildup probs in coco only when you don't get enough water through the root zone at each watering. top feeding puts water/nutes through the pot from top to bottom with runoff, flushing each time. ebb/flow soaks from the bottom up so not much flush action...more of a soak. depending on dry out time between waterings and plant size salt buildup can happen easily.

The emphasis on "only" is mine. What you said in plain words is that salts build up only is a problem if there is no enough runoff. Conclusion from your statement: if you flush enough your plants, you wont get salts build up. Nothing about res management, so you are saying he can recirculate his solution without any problem as far he provides enough flush to his plants.

2-I quoted your post and answer that recirculating a solution in coco need control on two parameters: ph and water quality. Being those parameters what determines the time required to use a new fresh res.

The reason is you cant flush out cations efficiently just by flushing/abundant runoff. This not mean flushing abundant run off is bad. I didnt any statement about that. Any. I just pointed out that only flushing isnt the key to have a healthy recirculating coco grow.

BTW, your statement about flushing is right (i never said the opposite, in fact ive adviced it at other growers when i noticed its the problem), but it not relates directly to res duration when recirculating. It relates to any grow in coco, and in fact, to most medias. Still being right, it isnt key for recirculating systems, but is more a general growing tip. You didnt know it so you fucked your plants by using a too low flood height when recirculating. But it wasnt a problem related to recirculating or res management, just your setup wasnt dialed (pot size and flood height didnt match).

From that experience, your conclusion was that the key to recirculate in coco is to have a good run off because on your personal grow you havent more problems than that. Reasonable conclusion, but wrong if you want to apply it to anybody else's grow. Glad you solved it and now your grow works fine, but dont pretend all the growers have your water, your nutes and all the specific things wich makes your grow unique. In order to do that, you need to experiment with different things to know how plants react and understant how each grow's parameter relationship with the others. Finally, joining all grow parameters in the best possible yielding plants is the art of growing, wich cant be teached. But concrete relations between each parameter pair may be teached to people with less experience or just that have grown always using the same sucessfully, so they dont have any need to change things except for curiosity.

MJ is a pretty easy to grow plant. Almost anybody may harvest it sucessfully. But there is a problem when people with 3 sucessfull harvest start to say all the people in the world how to grow, when they dont have by far the required knowlegde about what works and what not on a variety of conditions.

Ive done myself some growing setups for other growers, i visit constantly other growers setups, and im very active giving advice about how to solve plant's problems since years ago. I dont know everything, in fact i realize that as my growing knowledge increases by own experience, reading and talking with active growers that is more what i dont know that what i know about plants. Always trying to learn from my mistakes, wich i do, as everybody.

4-You took my comment as a personal atack, when it wasnt. I only tried to answer to TwinTurboGuy's question, by pointing out the res change timing when recirculating coco depend mainly of water quality and ph management. If both are good, you can use same res for all the run, without the need to change it, just refill.

Learn a bit trying differents things on your grow and dont think all the grows are the same, because it dont work. Respect to other growers and a open attitude allows you to learn from others. And man, always you can learn from others, always you find anybody who has more experience, formation and knowledge. Still is sure they may learn from your experiences, but for that you need to reduce your ego a little. Participating in forums is not about who knows more or who is the coolest guy in the place, but about sharing experiences and all together becoming better growers.

Peace,
knna
 
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G

Guest

You keep changing your points so it's hard to follow you... I don't know if you really don't see that or you are using english as your 2nd language as an excuse.

You are being evasive and I'm getting annoyed at trying to keep you on the points in question. It's all very, very simple but you are making things difficult. Here's an example:

knna: 1- Original question: TwinTurboGuy ask for some feedback about how often he may use a fresh res to have sucessfull grows recirculating in coco.
This is what he really asked:
TwinTurboGuy: For those that have recirculating coco systems, how often do you guys change your res before you start getting salt build up and PH flux? Is it a safe play to change your res everyone 4-5 days?

And Post #2 from word:
word: i stop the recirc in coco after a few runs (e&f)..... PH flux and buildup 4 sure... i found out that coco is best in a feed 2 waste with fresh feed every time... theres something in the coco that has to cause this...
Both of those posts refer to SALT BUILDUP and my first post in this thread was referring to those 2 posts, not TTG's post specifically, which read:

you can have salt buildup probs in coco only when you don't get enough water through the root zone at each watering. top feeding puts water/nutes through the pot from top to bottom with runoff, flushing each time. ebb/flow soaks from the bottom up so not much flush action...more of a soak. depending on dry out time between waterings and plant size salt buildup can happen easily.

I offered this as something these two guys might consider in trying to solve their problem. There is absolutely more variables involved in running a successful coco recirc(that's obvious) but this is one to look at. No where did I say this is the ONLY thing required. AND salt build up is different than OVERFEEDING. Salt build up is visible on the coco surface when it gets bad and if you run lots of water through your pots it's probably won't be there. If it's there chances are not enough water is passing through the pot. You can overfeed and not see buildup AND you can have salt buildup even without overfeeding. Depends on variables which I already mentioned.

Now HERE IS my answer to TTG's first post:

To answer TwinTurbo's question a rez change is not necesarry to keep ph and buildup in check. Proper nute strenght is mainly responsible for that along with getting enough water through the pots at each watering.
You got it now? You didn't even get TTG's question right... And somehow you came up with this crap :bigeye:

knna: Conclusion from your statement: if you flush enough your plants, you wont get salts build up. Nothing about res management, so you are saying he can recirculate his solution without any problem as far he provides enough flush to his plants.

LOL... No where does it say he can recirculate w/o probs if there is enough flush. But What you say is that EC level doesn't matter, only water quality and PH which is complete bullshit and bad advise.

Read more and try to understand what you read okay?

knna: BTW, your statement about flushing is right (i never said the opposite, in fact ive adviced it at other growers when i noticed its the problem), but it not relates directly to res duration when recirculating. It relates to any grow in coco, and in fact, to most medias. Still being right, it isnt key for recirculating systems, but is more a general growing tip. You didnt know it so you fucked your plants by using a too low flood height when recirculating. But it wasnt a problem related to recirculating or res management, just your setup wasnt dialed (pot size and flood height didnt match).

I know I'm right about flushing and this is one issue that you're flip flopping on. First you say it doesn't do much at all now you say it does. You said "flushing don't fight the problem" when if fact if does remedy the problem. Obviously it's best to AVOID the prob in the first place but flushing works if a prob arises. You can't tell me that's too hard to understand. You are also making assumptions in that bit... I always knew flushing coco is a good idea. I tried bigger pots and found the limit of what will and won't work. I took care of the prob and still pulled 1.5# a light.. didn't "fuck" my plants up. I spelled that experience out to you to prove my point on salt buildup which you originally said was a non issue.

You go on and on with more assumptions and misquotes that I won't even waste more time on. You're claiming to have lots of experience in growing and I don't think you do, not nearly as much as you make it sound. You are using book knowledge to argue most of your points and flip on other points. Anyone can read a book and reiterate what they've read on the internet. You grow under florescent lights probably in a closet.... nothing wrong with that but you are giving yourself too much credit.

knna: BTW, i grow with CFLs. Do you get plants as mines using 40w/sq ft of CFLs?
No, I don't think I get plants like yours. I looked at your gallery and saw some mediocre plants and one with burnt leaves that is very wispy looking. It's a lot less challenging to grow healthy plants under low light and based on your professor talk, experience claims etc, all of your plants should look perfect... they don't.

I grow healthier plants than yours and pull good yeilds under 8 1000w lights and still hold a normal job. Does a bigger grow mean better? No, but I think it shows that I know my way around a coco garden and know how to run a grow efficienly. I also think I'm perfectly capable of offering accurate advise but it's really annoying (not ego) to get side tracked like this by a CFL closet grower when trying to help someone out... a reminder as to why I don't frequent the boards much.
 
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knna

Member
turbotanical said:
You keep changing your points so it's hard to follow you... I don't know if you really don't see that or you are using english as your 2nd language as an excuse.

You are being evasive and I'm getting annoyed at trying to keep you on the points in question. It's all very, very simple but you are making things difficult. Here's an example:


This is what he really asked:


And Post #2 from word:

Both of those posts refer to SALT BUILDUP and my first post in this thread was referring to those 2 posts, not TTG's post specifically, which read:



I offered this as something these two guys might consider in trying to solve their problem. There is absolutely more variables involved in running a successful coco recirc(that's obvious) but this is one to look at. No where did I say this is the ONLY thing required. AND salt build up is different than OVERFEEDING. Salt build up is visible on the coco surface when it gets bad and if you run lots of water through your pots it's probably won't be there. If it's there chances are not enough water is passing through the pot. You can overfeed and not see buildup AND you can have salt buildup even without overfeeding. Depends on variables which I already mentioned.

Now HERE IS my answer to TTG's first post:


You got it now? You didn't even get TTG's question right... And somehow you came up with this crap :bigeye:



LOL... No where does it say he can recirculate w/o probs if there is enough flush. But What you say is that EC level doesn't matter, only water quality and PH which is complete bullshit and bad advise.

Read more and try to understand what you read okay?



I know I'm right about flushing and this is one issue that you're flip flopping on. First you say it doesn't do much at all now you say it does. You said "flushing don't fight the problem" when if fact if does remedy the problem. Obviously it's best to AVOID the prob in the first place but flushing works if a prob arises. You can't tell me that's too hard to understand. You are also making assumptions in that bit... I always knew flushing coco is a good idea. I tried bigger pots and found the limit of what will and won't work. I took care of the prob and still pulled 1.5# a light.. didn't "fuck" my plants up. I spelled that experience out to you to prove my point on salt buildup which you originally said was a non issue.

You go on and on with more assumptions and misquotes that I won't even waste more time on. You're claiming to have lots of experience in growing and I don't think you do, not nearly as much as you make it sound. You are using book knowledge to argue most of your points and flip on other points. Anyone can read a book and reiterate what they've read on the internet. You grow under florescent lights probably in a closet.... nothing wrong with that but you are giving yourself too much credit.


No, I don't think I get plants like yours. I looked at your gallery and saw some mediocre plants and one with burnt leaves that is very wispy looking. It's a lot less challenging to grow healthy plants under low light and based on your professor talk, experience claims etc, all of your plants should look perfect... they don't.

I grow healthier plants than yours and pull good yeilds under 8 1000w lights and still hold a normal job. Does a bigger grow mean better? No, but I think it shows that I know my way around a coco garden and know how to run a grow efficienly. I also think I'm perfectly capable of offering accurate advise but it's really annoying (not ego) to get side tracked like this by a CFL closet grower when trying to help someone out... a reminder as to why I don't frequent the boards much.


No, mine is larger



Grow on
 

Grizz

Active member
Veteran
you guys are making my head hurt, your both very smart and no doubt know what your talking about but most of us just want to make it as easy as possible to grow our herb, and enjoy it, I prefer not to recir my nutes, that way Im not using my spare time checking and making the adjustments all the time and my plants seem to love it, I don't waste the run off though it goes to my vegitables and outside flowers, peace and goodwill to you all JW
 
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