What's new

2000w room design

MarquisBlack

St. Elsewhere
Veteran
Hey everyone, I just wanted to post what I have put together so far with my new grow room build.

I have a 5'x8' space with a 7' ceiling. With my 400w MH running, the room stays at an even 70* and heat is never an issue. I plan on running 2 1000w HPS bulbs in cool tubes. I haven't yet purchased most of the supplies, as I have just ordered the seeds this week. (Getting Nirvana's B-52, Pure Power Plant, and Papaya)

I live in a townhome with its own circuit breaker, however I am not sure of its amperage and can't find it listed anywhere.

For the sake of avoiding power surge as much as possible, I'm going to have HPS #1 turn on at 6pm and turn off at 3am and HPS #2 will turn on at 9pm and turn off at 6am. This way, I can help prevent against phototropism without the use of a light mover while saving 25% on my energy consumption. I will have both lights on a 240v relay as well.

My seedling grow will be all soil, without c02. Though later I plan to supplement c02 and seal the room up.

For now, though, I need to know how feasible 2000+ watts will be on my townhome's circuit and what safeguards will need to be put into place.

I would also like to know approximately how powerful the blower on my cool tubes will need to be, and how powerful my exhaust blower will need to be. I was looking at one 300cfm for the tubes and one 300cfm for the exhaust.

Any advice you guys can hit me up with will be much appreciated.
 

LazyDaze

Member
Don't use cool tubes - get regular hoods with glass and ventilate them the same way. You will get more from your light in a good hood.

Assume the circuit is no more than 15 amp. If nothing else is on it,

2000 W / 240 V = 8.33 A

you always save 20% for safety, so a 15 A circuit should only be used to draw 12 A of power. You need 8.33 A. Although there is a surge at startup, you should be OK with staggered ignitions like you describe.

You will likely find heat to be an issue still. Be prepared to add air conditioning (if sealed space) and/or plenty of carbon filtered ventilation (either way really). CO2 will allow you to run a tad hotter.

Make sure all electrical work is clean and correct. Get a book if you need to. Everything enclosed properly. All electricity up off the floor where it can't get wet. Don't use anything old or worn to avoid a fire. Use a fire alarm, and have an extinguisher handy.

Read everything on this site.
 

MarquisBlack

St. Elsewhere
Veteran
LazyDaze said:
Don't use cool tubes - get regular hoods with glass and ventilate them the same way. You will get more from your light in a good hood.

Assume the circuit is no more than 15 amp. If nothing else is on it,

2000 W / 240 V = 8.33 A

you always save 20% for safety, so a 15 A circuit should only be used to draw 12 A of power. You need 8.33 A. Although there is a surge at startup, you should be OK with staggered ignitions like you describe.

You will likely find heat to be an issue still. Be prepared to add air conditioning (if sealed space) and/or plenty of carbon filtered ventilation (either way really). CO2 will allow you to run a tad hotter.

Make sure all electrical work is clean and correct. Get a book if you need to. Everything enclosed properly. All electricity up off the floor where it can't get wet. Don't use anything old or worn to avoid a fire. Use a fire alarm, and have an extinguisher handy.

Read everything on this site.

Appreciate the advice, man. Been lurking these forums along with cannacom for several months now and it's helped alot. The only reason I think I'm going to get cool tubes is because I plan on doing either a stadium-type setup next round or maybe a vertical system, otherwise I would definitely invest in a high-end air-cooled hood.
 

eyes

Active member
Veteran
most circuits are rated for 15 amps.some are 20.A 1000 is 9,2 amps and higher draw when firing up.if u ran them at differ times then i dont see why it wont work.never 2 1000s on one outlet.why not run 2 600s??what kinda area are u actually covering.Not the room size but the area your covering?
 

the_man

Member
also use arc fault breakers the black and neutral wire goes to the breaker then the white wire on the breaker goes to the neutral bus bar. slightest spark will make the breaker pop
 
MarquisBlack said:
Hey everyone, I just wanted to post what I have put together so far with my new grow room build.

I have a 5'x8' space with a 7' ceiling. With my 400w MH running, the room stays at an even 70* and heat is never an issue. I plan on running 2 1000w HPS bulbs in cool tubes. I haven't yet purchased most of the supplies, as I have just ordered the seeds this week. (Getting Nirvana's B-52, Pure Power Plant, and Papaya)

I live in a townhome with its own circuit breaker, however I am not sure of its amperage and can't find it listed anywhere.

For the sake of avoiding power surge as much as possible, I'm going to have HPS #1 turn on at 6pm and turn off at 3am and HPS #2 will turn on at 9pm and turn off at 6am. This way, I can help prevent against phototropism without the use of a light mover while saving 25% on my energy consumption. I will have both lights on a 240v relay as well.

My seedling grow will be all soil, without c02. Though later I plan to supplement c02 and seal the room up.

For now, though, I need to know how feasible 2000+ watts will be on my townhome's circuit and what safeguards will need to be put into place.

I would also like to know approximately how powerful the blower on my cool tubes will need to be, and how powerful my exhaust blower will need to be. I was looking at one 300cfm for the tubes and one 300cfm for the exhaust.

Any advice you guys can hit me up with will be much appreciated.

If you're running both lights on a 240v circuit, I see no reason to run them staggered like that. If these lights are going to be the only thing on that circuit, you're only looking at drawing ~10A with both running.. any 240v circuit should be able to handle that with ease.

Don't use cool tubes-- use good air-cooled reflectors. SuperSun2 is my recommendation.

Rough calculation for cooling the hoods: Watts/4=CFM. Therefore, you're looking at 500cfm to cool down both 1K's. 6" Vortex should do the trick. 8" if you want to leave some safety/upgrade margin.

As for the venting the room, you have a couple options..

1. Leave the vent on the reflector furthest from the blower open, effectively exhausting the air from the room and cooling the lights at the same time.
-- If you do this, you'll need to either connect a properly sized carbon filter to the hood furthest from the blower, or directly after the blower.

2. Run a separate exhaust fan with a carbon filter attached. If your hoods are in a closed loop and are being cooled adequetly, you don't need anything monster. I believe there's a generalized rule as to how many times the room should be exhausted per minute, but I can't think of it off the top of my head. Maybe someone else will chime in here.
 
Last edited:

MarquisBlack

St. Elsewhere
Veteran
Alright, you guys have me reconsidering the cool tubes seeing as I just found Super Sun 2 reflectors for about the same price as the cool tube I was looking at. But as for running my last reflectors intake open for exhaust, how could this best be done with a carbon scrubber?

Last reflector intake -> first reflector - > blower -> carbon scrubber -> exhaust?

Anyone have any preference?
 
Carbon scrubber has to be at very beginning of the chain or the very end, unless you get an inline which are mucho dinero. Have to be pulling through it or pushing through it.
 
Top