noise reduction - acoustical foam

[darkhollo]

Has anyone experiment with acoustical foam/noise cancelling foam panels or hangers?

Like the below link. Just wondering what type of frequencies are found in a grow room.. water trickling/pumps/fans/ballast. This might be a step towards a silent grow.

no tell / no sell / no smell / no hear?

http://www.allnoisecontrol.com/acousticFoams.cfm

-dh

 

[GreenScreen]

ever heard of peal and seal?? im into car audio and we use it all the time for sound deadening... you should check it out they sell it home depot and lowes...
Peal And Seal cheapest sound deadening you can buy... and its usually found in the roofing department in those big 6X25 foot rolls.. only costs around 12-15 bux.. cant beat it and if you want more sound deadening just use more then one layer..

-GreenScreen

 

[darkhollo]

But isn't sound deadening in a car primarily for rattling of the surroundings? What would peel & seal help in a sheetrocked room? I see what you are saying for a car and i'm familiar with peel&seal (shark skin/ice dam/etc)

-dh

 

[GreenScreen]

well yes they do stop rattles and vibrations but they are made to keep the sound in your car.. putting peal and seal in your car would make your car louder by not allowing sound to escape.. ex: higher decibel ratings... so it would work in the same theory for closets, to keep sound in

-GreenScreen

 

[Guest]

Well Mr GreenScreen, if your theory worked then us old folks wouldn't have to listen to half deaf kids driving by our homes at 2:00AM in the morning with their BoomBox mentality blaring for a Quarter mile in either Direction.

I can't stop the Noise but I sure as hell can relish at the thought of a bunch of inconsiderate little Peckerheads being tone deaf before they reach the age of 30. Enjoy the Music. So much for sound control.

TyStik

 

[PurplePotion]

Acoustical foam won't do what you're trying to do. I use it in my studio to 'deaden' the booth, so that I can get the cleanest signal through my A/D and into ProTools. It removes reverb in the room, but you can still hear what's going on in the booth from outside of the booth.

 

[dtoker]

i duno, it would work to some extent as it is designed to absorb sound waves - hence there wouldnt be as many traveling though the material .

 

[DIGITALHIPPY]

Acoustical foam won't do what you're trying to do. I use it in my studio to 'deaden' the booth, so that I can get the cleanest signal through my A/D and into ProTools. It removes reverb in the room, but you can still hear what's going on in the booth from outside of the booth.

really?
i was hoping this might help out.
http://www.allnoisecontrol.com/products/AcousticBlanket_DoorCoverBlanket.cfm door panel covered with noise reduction..
im having a noise control issue myself.

purple, does it REDUCE the sound? i dont think anyone here will achive perfect but i just want to help reduce the problem.

moving blankets dont seam to help much
HEHE

 

[darkhollo]

I think it would help and every little bit is help. You will never be 100% stealth, but i'd rather be 96% than 80% you know.

Also after searching google I found a few sites that help in complete construction from start to finish with products and tips on how to isolate sheetrock from the wall (with a proprietary system of course!) and other ways to design your room to be soundproof.

I'm trying to get a quote on some panels and I will report back if there is a difference. It's worth a shot.

-dh

 

[SomeGuy]

I built a recording studio from the ground up and did some research on sound proofing. Density of material is what blocks sound. Foam is used like Purple Potion said in that it keeps it from bouncing around. Sheetrock is actually one of the better and readily available products, though Georgia Pacific makes a HushBoard that you might can get locally thats pretty good too.
I used a rubber mat type product called AcoustiBlock that weighed over 1lb per sq ft that I special ordered. Bitch to install and expensive but effectively blocked 99% of the sound entering and leaving the building.

You can go major sound stealth but its going to cost you.

 

[Guest]

I used a rubber mat type product called AcoustiBlock that weighed over 1lb per sq ft that I special ordered. Bitch to install and expensive but effectively blocked 99% of the sound entering and leaving the building.

Hey SomeGuy

I found some similar stuff online called "mass loaded vinyl".

I assume you just line the interior of your room (or bldg)...

What do you do about windows?
(I need my window for fresh air intake...)

 

[SomeGuy]

Hey SomeGuy

I found some similar stuff online called "mass loaded vinyl".

I assume you just line the interior of your room (or bldg)...

What do you do about windows?
(I need my window for fresh air intake...)

I built solid hinged panels to cover the windows and covered those with Ablock. Outside walls were 8" so I had plenty of space for a thicker cover.
They can open them when they want fresh air and shut them when recording.

You could do the same thing but leave an area open for your vent duct. Also consider using insulated ducting and that would help eliminate sound traveling down the length of duct though its still going to be your weak spot.

 

[Guest]

I built solid hinged panels to cover the windows and covered those with Ablock. Outside walls were 8" so I had plenty of space for a thicker cover.
They can open them when they want fresh air and shut them when recording.

You could do the same thing but leave an area open for your vent duct. Also consider using insulated ducting and that would help eliminate sound traveling down the length of though its still going to be your weak spot.

Thanks for the help SomeGuy!

Lemme see if I understand.
...panels (lined with Ablock) over the windows...with an opening for fresh air intake...

Cool.


(BTW, I have insulated flex-duct...on the list...)

Thanks again

 

[SomeGuy]

Thanks for the help SomeGuy!

Lemme see if I understand.
...panels (lined with Ablock) over the windows...with an opening for fresh air intake...

Cool.


(BTW, I have insulated flex-duct...on the list...)

Thanks again

In my application I covered the Ablok with wood siding so it would look nice inside but not really necessary. If you can make your panels a few inches wider than the window and with the walls covered you could blast death metal in there turned up to 11 and no one would hear.

 

[DiscoDuck]

darkhollo, this may have already been mentioned, heat may be a factor as those acoustical panels absorb and hold heat. They're expensive as hell, too.

I don't know how much air circulation your fan motor needs to stay in operating temps. You can make a box to house your fan, cut holes in the box for intake/exhaust. The best sound dampening material I've ever used, close to the acoustical foam tiles, is the multi-color sponge-foam carpet pad. I've had a garage band for years, this stuff works just about the best and won't cost you an arm and a leg. Just line the inside of the fan box with the carpet foam. Carpet foam on the outside of the box would only be necessary if you can still hear things running inside.

You might consider the carpet foam for the same application you're gonna put the sound tiles, it works almost as good as the sound tiles (except for recording.) Carpet foam will act like insulation and may raise your temps too much.

Good luck with whatever you plan to do, it'd be nice to see a few pics of what you come up with.

 

[TGT]

When I was building a wall for a grow I had to insulate it. After going to Home Depot I noticed that they had insulation that blocked sound. It is used for in the roof of your basement so people living in the basement can't hear the people walking around, stero, tv ect. from up stairs. They also had sound deadening drywall. I think with the combination of the two you could really cut down on sound. I have never used it myself, but will when I build my next room. It will have to be as quiet as possible as it is in a residential garage, so after I use it I will post here to let you all know how well it works.

TGT

 

[Mr Celsius]

Our most recent recording studio has about 6 layers of sound board, plywood and OSB and then an acoustician designed the interior.

Sound board from lowes/home depot is useless, just buy drywall.

Plywood -> insulation -> plywood -> drywall, you wont be able to hear anything.

 

[Mr Celsius]

Acoustical foam won't do what you're trying to do. I use it in my studio to 'deaden' the booth, so that I can get the cleanest signal through my A/D and into ProTools. It removes reverb in the room, but you can still hear what's going on in the booth from outside of the booth.

Which A/D converters are you using? We have 5 - 192 24 input systems and can't really tell the A/D's... they're kind of unique.

 

[PurplePotion]

Which A/D converters are you using? We have 5 - 192 24 input systems and can't really tell the A/D's... they're kind of unique.

Focusrite ISA828
Focusrite ISA828 AD/DA

And any question that anyone else asked me was already answered, so I'm not gonna clutter up the thread .

 

[EatShitake]

Acoustical treatments for rooms and soundproofing a facility are two totally different things.

Some things to consider and were also mentioned are that sound dampening is accomplished by limp, dense mass. You can go apeshit on your budget purchasing stuff designed for soundproofing, but you don't have to. Sheetrock is VERY good in this respect. If you're able to frame your room, a double layer of sheetrock is easy, cheap, and effective. Hanging the first layer with resilient channel is the best way. It decouples the sheetrock from your framing material, so it resonates less than the frame. Decoupling the footer of your wall with rubber is also another good technique, and doing the two in conjunction is the best.

This place is about as good as any for picking up decent supplies, and they're also great to work with if you're into recording arts and don't have a commercial studio discount or sponsor: http://www.sweetwater.com/c675--Acoustic_Construction