Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?

[alk_loid]

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=1578289#post1578289

im confused, whats the best then?
damn would be real hard to get my fan blow otherway and mount scrubber.

http://www.drugs-forum.com/growfaq/1528.htm

 

[piffffalici0us]

It is best to suck the air out of the room, put the filter first attach it to the intake part of ur fan wit 4" duct. Then run the duct from the exaust of the fan out of the grow room.
Then you will be good to go.
I actually put the filter at the end of the exaust (outside of the room) because i dont want to hang the filter. Works either way.

 

[bingobongo]

Hey Hempkat,
I hope all is well with you. What is the latest I can up pot? I have Old Skool NL at day 24 in flower in a 3 gallon and this gal is going to be special. I want to put her in a 5 gallon, is it too late?

Thanks,
BB

 

[HempKat]

hempkat you are definetly an asset to icmag

Well thank you, but I like to think we are all assests when we try to help one another. :smile:

 

[HempKat]

Neem Oil:

Whats the earliest you would use neem oil on a plant to be proactive as I have had a problem in the past.

S_a_H

Personally I don't like neem oil, I've never used it but from what I've heard it seems like alot of hassle. When it comes to pests and preventitive care I find two things are good.

First and most importantly is to have your grow space right. If temps are where they should be, humidity is where it should be, and your ventilation/circulation is good, you'll avoid many problems just because the environment won't be good for supporting many of the pests that plague growers.

Secondly I like to use a product called SM-90 from Nutrilife.

http://www.4hydroponics.com/grow_room/sm90.asp

It's safe and non toxic, the smell isn't bad, doesn't leave any after taste (Although by the time you get to flower you shouldn't be needing it any more if you used it thru veg) and it has multiple benefits. Not only does it help prevent pests but it also helps fight mold, mildew and root rott in the root zone and with regular use it also increases the plant's ability to uptake water and nutrients which means better growth. It does have one draw back in that the aspect of it that prevents pests will also kill off beneficial microbes. So if you're an organic grower who actively tries to encourage a good bio-herd then this product may not be right for you. There are was to work around that though such as using it thru veg with a chemical fert and then when you go to flower, stop using it, add beneficial microbes using products like Plant Success Water Soluable Mycorrhizae from Plant Revolution

http://www.plantrevolution.com/soluble.html

and then switch to your organic ferts.

 

[HempKat]

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=1578289#post1578289

im confused, whats the best then?
damn would be real hard to get my fan blow otherway and mount scrubber.

http://www.drugs-forum.com/growfaq/1528.htm

Don't worry about what those people are saying, they're too wrapped up in being the one with the correct answer and it blinds them to some of the possibilities. The GrowFAQ is talking about a specific type of fan which is the kind you got. The GrowFAQ was written by and organized by people far more knowledgable then anyone how posted in the thread you were told that in.

 

[HempKat]

Hey Hempkat,
I hope all is well with you. What is the latest I can up pot? I have Old Skool NL at day 24 in flower in a 3 gallon and this gal is going to be special. I want to put her in a 5 gallon, is it too late?

Thanks,
BB

Depends, if you're thinking it will make a big difference to have that much more space then it's too late. You're almost past stretch and once you get past stretch the root developement is minimal and much of the soil will be wasted. Now if you're experiencing root bound issues then even though your plants won't get as big as they would if you transplanted just before flower, it will relieve the plant from the stress of being root bound and that will make your plant happier and healthier for the rest of flower.

As a rule it's best to transplant to the pot you'll finish in just before you go to 12/12. If possible it's best to not have to transplant, train, top or do much of anything to plants in flower beyond watering, feeding and supporting any buds that become too heavy for the branches to support.

 

[alk_loid]

today one of the timers were somehow restarted or zerod all timings.
so one fan inside wasnt working and temperatures raised to 44C . woked up and put fan to work. now it seems okay.

i think i have to cut duct inside shorter like u hempkat advised. so heat would just rise to fan and then fan would suck it and blow to scrubber.

 

[HempKat]

today one of the timers were somehow restarted or zerod all timings.
so one fan inside wasnt working and temperatures raised to 44C . woked up and put fan to work. now it seems okay.

i think i have to cut duct inside shorter like u hempkat advised. so heat would just rise to fan and then fan would suck it and blow to scrubber.

Is it a digital timer? Digital timers are great so long as the power stays constant. When you have the power go, even just for a second, they tend to reset, just like a digital clock does (when power goes off and comes back on they usually reset to 12:00 midnight). My guess is that is what happened to you. The only way you can prevent that is to have your digital timer connected to some form of uniterupted power supply or UPS for short. Then if the power goes your timer will not reset. That's not practical for many folks though so the alternative is to use a mechanical timer which will only stop where it's at when the power goes out and when it comes back on it just picks up where it left off.

 

[gonejah17]

Hey everyone, was wondering if you could confirm for me that these are indeed pollen sacks that have busted. Thought this was a confirmed female and just went into the mom cab and saw these on her. and some whitish powder on my WW mom that I will post as well. The suspect plant is a bagseed and Im kicking myself for planting a seed from a seeded bud, Last time ill ever do that. Thanks.

sacks


pollen maybe??

 

[bingobongo]

Hey Hempkat,

Thank you for the right direction with the tranplant issue. No root bound issue to speak of, so I'll exercise due diligence for the best yield keeping her in the 3 gallon.

Thank you again for the "rule of thumb" to transplant into the size pot you will want to finish her in at the start of 12/12.

Best regards,
BB

 

[HempKat]

Hey everyone, was wondering if you could confirm for me that these are indeed pollen sacks that have busted. Thought this was a confirmed female and just went into the mom cab and saw these on her. and some whitish powder on my WW mom that I will post as well. The suspect plant is a bagseed and Im kicking myself for planting a seed from a seeded bud, Last time ill ever do that. Thanks.

sacks


pollen maybe??

I'm not so sure those were pollen sacks or that the white stuff in the other pic is pollen. Those sacks (and I'm not positive of what they are) appear at the base of just about every bud site on every female plant I've grown. In fact I think they're the original pre-flowers. Thing is, I've never seen one break open before.

That white stuff looks more like powdery mildew which is a condition that can develope when temps are normal but humidity is high (70% or more) it usually also requires a lack of air circulation. So if your humidity has been high and you don't have a fan in the cab just for circulating air then you might have powdery mildew.

 

[HempKat]

Hey Hempkat,

Thank you for the right direction with the tranplant issue. No root bound issue to speak of, so I'll exercise due diligence for the best yield keeping her in the 3 gallon.

Thank you again for the "rule of thumb" to transplant into the size pot you will want to finish her in at the start of 12/12.

Best regards,
BB

No problem, glad to be of assistance.

 

[gonejah17]

Damn, Hempkat, thanks so much!!!

That really eases my nerves, I thought this was a confirmed female and its a strain Im trying to develop and study. So this really freaked me out!!

Thank you so much for taking the time to set me at ease.

{EDIT} do u think too many plants crammed tight in a cab might reduce the airflow which might in turn cause some of the powdery mildew??

 

[alk_loid]

is it normal that clones have little pistils everywhere.
i havent had clones never before so usually pistils appear when they flower.
but i think they appear with age (clones are older than usual plants )
16/8 . they cant be flowering can they? this is my consern cuz they are small yet and i want to grow them little bigger.

 

[HempKat]

Damn, Hempkat, thanks so much!!!

That really eases my nerves, I thought this was a confirmed female and its a strain Im trying to develop and study. So this really freaked me out!!

Thank you so much for taking the time to set me at ease.

{EDIT} do u think too many plants crammed tight in a cab might reduce the airflow which might in turn cause some of the powdery mildew??

Well first off let me say that while I'm glad you feel more at ease don't let your guard down as we're not sure what we're dealing with here.

It looks like powdery mildew but there could be other things it could be. I'm not even ruling out pollen entirely but when I've had males drop pollen it looked more spread out. The picture you posted looked more evenly coated. If someone took pollen and smeared it around on a leaf it might look like that but from just normally dropping it has a more grainy or splotchy look. Like I said it could be other things too. Is there anything out of the ordinary that's happened in the grow area? Usually anything unexplained will have something odd happening in the grow around that time and often the problem ends up being related to that odd thing. For example this one grower I know uses a product called Diatomaceous Earth it's basically powdered fossil material that can be used to kill insects. To us it's like a harmless powder and can even be eaten although it's not a food. To small pests crawling thru a patch of that is like crawling thru a patch of razor blades or broken glass. He puts it in his soil as a preventive measure against pests. He thought he had powdery mildew once but it turns out it was some of this stuff he uses that spilled. He had just forgetten about spilling it.

Anyway for it to be powdery mildew there are two main conditions that need to exist. Low temps and high humidity. Having poor air flow can also assist and it can help lead to the low temp/high humidity situation as well. Normally a grow room with lights on is anwhere from 75 to 80 degrees F. and humidity should be kept at around 50-55%. If those are your lights on conditions then lights out should be something like 60 to 65 degrees F. with humidity around 30-40%. Powdery mildew often happens when humidity is up around 70%Humidity naturally drops at lights out because as temps cool the air contracts and can't hold as much water so humidity drops. That's why you get dew forming on things at night in warm weather because when the sun isn't out the air cools and the released water is the dew. It's also why things air generally less humid in the winter.

One way people get powdery mildew is they mist their plants just after lights out and don't have good air circulation to help it evaporate quickly. The air around the branches where the leaves are then becomes kind of stagnent and can be slightly warmer then the surrounding air allowing the humidity in that area to be higher and with all the moisture from the misting there's plenty of water to become the source of humidity for that air. Bam, you got powdery mildew. So to answer your question, yes, if the plants are packed too tightly together then it can and will impede air flow. Basically you want it to where the air circulation causes the leaves on the plants to flutter slightly. A good 12" or larger, oscillating fan on low blowing across the top of your plants is enough to do the trick if the plants aren't packed in too tight.

By the way if that is powdery mildew I'm not sure of the best treatment but have seen where others feel neem oil works well. I would add though that if it is powdery mildew you don't want to just treat it and continue on but rather treat it AND find out why it's happening and fix that otherwise it'll just keep coming back. Alot of this sort of thing as well as major pest problems can be avoided by putting due dilligence into designing your grow space for good temps, good ventilation and good air circulation.

Now as for those things you thought were pollen sacks. If they're what I'm thinking then they're actually an individual calyx and at one time had two pistils (hairs) sticking out of it. Normally when unpollenated the pistils die off after a few weeks and it just sits there in a pear shape covered with triches maybe. Yours were covered in triches and the hairs were gone but they were also open. The only time I've ever seen them open like that was when they got pollenated, grew a seed, the seed ripened and eventually fell out. If that were the case though then the bud above it and probably most of the other buds should be pollinated and seeded as well because the pollen incident happened weeks ago if seeds are dropping out. So not that you can do much about that now but you may want to check and make sure the buds aren't seeded. If they are most or all of the pistils will have died and changed color and few if any new pistils will be growing. Most or all of the calyxes will be swollen making the bud look bigger and feel heavies and if you look closely at the calyxes on the surface of the bud some should be stating to split open just enough to see some of the seed underneath.

Now if they are seeded, that is generally thought of as bad because it does affect your smokable yield. In addition you have the added hassle of cleaning out the seeds when you want to smoke and the potential risk of smoking a seed It's not all bad though, the smokable part will still be good and now you got a bunch of free seeds

 

[HempKat]

is it normal that clones have little pistils everywhere.
i havent had clones never before so usually pistils appear when they flower.
but i think they appear with age (clones are older than usual plants )
16/8 . they cant be flowering can they? this is my consern cuz they are small yet and i want to grow them little bigger.

You're initial thought is correct. Clones are as mature as the mother plant they came from. In fact it's not really another plant, it's that same plant only apart and rooted on it's own. Once it has roots though it is self sustaining and is every bit as mature as the plant it came from. Individual or pairs of pre-flowers will form veg in veg once a plant is mature. (6 to 8 weeks usually). If a clone is taken from a plant already at the point of having pre-flowers, then once that clone roots and starts going on it's own it will start forming pre-flowers.

Flowering is different some think that the bud itself is a flower and indeed one could look at it that way but it's actually a collection, a mass of those same pre-flowers where at the end of each pair of hairs is a tiny plant womb where a seed can be formed if pollen makes contact with the hair to trigger the required bio chemical reaction. When you switch to 12/12 and flowering is triggered, every place you see where a pre-flower or two is will become a bud site and others will form also where nothing is right now. At each bund site those pre-flowers will start multipling and turn into little bundles of hairs and that eventually swells into a much larger bud and depending on the location may merge with other buds to form one large cola bud. So if you see individual preflowers scattered about, that's just normal maturity, think of them as your ladies' breasts When they start forming into larger clusters though, that's when it's flowering.

 

[alk_loid]

breasts sweeeet.

cant thank you enough hempkat

 

[dschwizz]

Another plant is showing discolouration, and this time it seems to be more serious. One of my stronger plants, which up until now has been very healthy looking, now has browning on sections of its leaves. As some of the responses to my previous posts suggest, it could be from overwatering (i still haven't figured out the perfect amount yet...), but I want to be sure. also the stem is two different colours, green and reddish purple; what's going on there?

as a true first timer any and all advice is much appreciated, thanks in advance!

 

[HempKat]

Another plant is showing discolouration, and this time it seems to be more serious. One of my stronger plants, which up until now has been very healthy looking, now has browning on sections of its leaves. As some of the responses to my previous posts suggest, it could be from overwatering (i still haven't figured out the perfect amount yet...), but I want to be sure. also the stem is two different colours, green and reddish purple; what's going on there?

as a true first timer any and all advice is much appreciated, thanks in advance!

The reddish/purple color is fairly normal and most likely an indication temps got a little cool in the grow area, most likely during lights out.

Overall though more then anything else the plant looks like it might be suffering from a ph imbalance. Do you have a ph tester? If so the next time you water, water enough to get some drainage and test the ph of the drainage. If it's less then 6.2 or more then 7.0 you have a ph imbalance. To fix that you need to flush the soil by watering it with 2 to 3 times the normal amount of water. Do not add ferts when you flush.

As I recall you said you water 3 to 4 times a week. If you were including ferts each and every time, even if the water and ferts for each individual time had a good ph, you could have a salt build up in the soil making the ph change once the water/fert is added to the soil. In general it's a good practice to just give water with no ferts, every third watering, to help avoid salt build-ups.

By the way, looks like someone has been chewing on your picture. :smile: