Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?

[alk_loid]

Hempkat what about cab temps around 86F ?
cant get them lower much, due the winter heating.
window open is a change but..

 

[HempKat]

Hempkat what about cab temps around 86F ?
cant get them lower much, due the winter heating.
window open is a change but..

86F is borderline acceptable for actively growing plants, it's a bit stressful but shouldn't harm the plant. For clones though that have yet to establish roots that may be too much.

 

[gramsci.antonio]

hello, a quick question for you all: I've been using Canna Coco A+B till today, i'm one month into flowering with a power plant.

I've run out of canna A+B but i've a promo bottle of GH Flora micro+bloom.

Is it a problem if i switch in the middle of the lifeplant from Canna to GH?


thank you

 

[HempKat]

hello, a quick question for you all: I've been using Canna Coco A+B till today, i'm one month into flowering with a power plant.

I've run out of canna A+B but i've a promo bottle of GH Flora micro+bloom.

Is it a problem if i switch in the middle of the lifeplant from Canna to GH?


thank you

In theory, no, if both products have everything the plants need it shouldn't be a problem. If there were a problem it would most likely be due to a ph issue because the ph levels of the two products might be different.

Now if the new product has too much of one or more of the nutrients in the products or not enough then you could also run into deficiency or toxicity issues.

More then likely you'll be fine though. Just be careful to follow feeding recommendations of the new product as it may be different from the old product. If you could, maybe a bit of a flush between using the old product and switching to the new product would be a good idea? Kind of wiping the slate clean before starting with the new stuff.

 

[gramsci.antonio]

In theory, no, if both products have everything the plants need it shouldn't be a problem. If there were a problem it would most likely be due to a ph issue because the ph levels of the two products might be different.

Now if the new product has too much of one or more of the nutrients in the products or not enough then you could also run into deficiency or toxicity issues.

More then likely you'll be fine though. Just be careful to follow feeding recommendations of the new product as it may be different from the old product. If you could, maybe a bit of a flush between using the old product and switching to the new product would be a good idea? Kind of wiping the slate clean before starting with the new stuff.

Unfortunatly i've not enough RO water to flush... I switched to GH following the lucas formula... i'll let ya know in a few days how they'll behave!

 

[HempKat]

Unfortunatly i've not enough RO water to flush... I switched to GH following the lucas formula... i'll let ya know in a few days how they'll behave!

Well that flush suggestion was more precautionary then anything else. Just to make sure you were starting off with a clean slate and nothing from the old ferts to interfere with the new ones. As long as things have been going well then you probably wouldn't need a flush in this situation.

 

[dschwizz]

I've got a question that at this point in my grow is purely theoretical. First some background: I am about a week into microgrowing 9 plants from seed, and I have an 11 gallon (45, 000 cubic centimeter) container into which I am planning on transplanting all the plants when the time is right. Is this a sound plan or am I cruising for a bruising?

 

[Rifman]

Well if you were really worried and didn't mind a bit of a delay. You can slow down their growth a number of ways via topping, training, decreasing light strength, lowering temps, cutting back on nutes, or letting them stay in a root bound pot for an extra week or so.

The good news is you're in veg, so you have flexability without hurting your harvest much if any. Handled right it could even ultimately increase yield in the case of topping and trainning. Now if the concern is ultimately transport a good although slightly expensive solution is what they call in the moving business a "Wardrobe Box" they're like 2 feet square and 5 feet tall. They have a metal bar that goes across for hanging clothes on. These make great transport boxes as you can get a good size plant in one without having to do anything to it.

If the plant is about 1.5 to 2 times the height of the pot it's probably root bound on on the verge of being root bound and won't grow too much taller. Not in eleven days anyway. The plant might suffer a bit of stress and you might have to water more frequently until you can transplant but if I were you. I'd leave them in veg as is give them half strength nutes ,aybe cut them back from 18/6 to 16/8 or even 14/10 although that's boarderline risky. Basically just stall it's growth a bit then use a large box like I describe and transport it that way and then transplant and go to 12/12.

You could even really go to 12/12 now if you can time the breakdown of the grow, transport of plants and equipment and reset up of at least a temp grow during the dark period of 12/12 as you can just completely box the plants up to give them their dark period that day. Would be a bit trickier but very doable if things are lined up right.

Also if the transport is at the heart of your question 40cm is like 18" add maybe 10" for a pot thats 28" and if you can get these wardrobe boxes they could get almost twice as tall and still fit. I don't know if you have a Home Depot where you're at (Hardware Supply Store) but they sell moving materials, including those boxes. Depending on size you could get 1 or 2 per box which is the down side because they are like $12 to $15 dollars each. So really at 40 cm now you could probably just veg them and change nothing else for 11 days, transport them in these boxes and set up at the new place then transplant and flower.

hey man, thanks for responce.

i think i got this under control now, i found some cardbord(spelling?!) boxes
at work that seem the perfect size. i hope the plants wont grow too big for them in the 7days i have left.

plants are still looking healthy, well tbh i had some burned leafs a coupple of weeks ago after i repotted. the soil i used is clearly not optimal for my plants, a few leaves on each plant turned rust-spotted and crispy, i flushed the soil and added terra vega, they now seem fine. next time ill definately do some research into what soil i should use. from what ive heard sofar seedling soil or cactus soil is allrite.

btw.. i trimmed off the crispy ruined leaves, just cus it bothered me that they looked so ugly. this was like mby 3-4 leaves on each plant, all fan leaves. noob mistake? does it matter if i trim burned leaves, do they still serve a purpose to the plant?

i decided not to start the flowering until i have them safely installed in the new house, i have to lightproof the new flowering room and setup ventilation and lights. i might have to setup some temporary veg place for a coupple of days. it shouldnt take very long, the rooms ive chosen to use are in the basement. its perfect! oh god i cant wait until i get all this space for them. they are now so big that the 5 of them completely cover the space at the bottom of my closet, and are now touching eachother starting to fight for the space. its 50x100cmx200cm. sry i dont know your american/english inches and foot very well so to avoid confusion ill just use what i know hehe

what i am now starting to worry about is the repotting of such big plants, im gonna go from 12Litre buckets to 25litre ones for the flowering. really dont want to stress and ruin my plants at this point, a safe and good way of doing this with such big plants?

 

[S_a_H]

Someone told me that a Tri-foliate even though may increase yield its potency is decreased also ? Is this true ?

S_a_H

 

[HempKat]

I've got a question that at this point in my grow is purely theoretical. First some background: I am about a week into microgrowing 9 plants from seed, and I have an 11 gallon (45, 000 cubic centimeter) container into which I am planning on transplanting all the plants when the time is right. Is this a sound plan or am I cruising for a bruising?

Well even though you are presumably going to be using topping and trainning to control size 9 plants is alot for a small space like that. I have a 45 Gallon tub and although I don't do micro style I wouldn't even consider doing more then 6 plants in it but you're talking 9 plants in a container one fourth that size. You're either going to need a bigger space and/or fewer plants.

 

[HempKat]

hey man, thanks for responce.

i think i got this under control now, i found some cardbord(spelling?!) boxes
at work that seem the perfect size. i hope the plants wont grow too big for them in the 7days i have left.

plants are still looking healthy, well tbh i had some burned leafs a coupple of weeks ago after i repotted. the soil i used is clearly not optimal for my plants, a few leaves on each plant turned rust-spotted and crispy, i flushed the soil and added terra vega, they now seem fine. next time ill definately do some research into what soil i should use. from what ive heard sofar seedling soil or cactus soil is allrite.

btw.. i trimmed off the crispy ruined leaves, just cus it bothered me that they looked so ugly. this was like mby 3-4 leaves on each plant, all fan leaves. noob mistake? does it matter if i trim burned leaves, do they still serve a purpose to the plant?

i decided not to start the flowering until i have them safely installed in the new house, i have to lightproof the new flowering room and setup ventilation and lights. i might have to setup some temporary veg place for a coupple of days. it shouldnt take very long, the rooms ive chosen to use are in the basement. its perfect! oh god i cant wait until i get all this space for them. they are now so big that the 5 of them completely cover the space at the bottom of my closet, and are now touching eachother starting to fight for the space. its 50x100cmx200cm. sry i dont know your american/english inches and foot very well so to avoid confusion ill just use what i know hehe

what i am now starting to worry about is the repotting of such big plants, im gonna go from 12Litre buckets to 25litre ones for the flowering. really dont want to stress and ruin my plants at this point, a safe and good way of doing this with such big plants?

Removing leaves is really only a questionable practice in flowering since as long as you're vegging the plant will make new leaves to replace the ones you might remove. In flower it can be more critical to remove leaves depending on your view towards leaves. Some look at them and think like they just bllock light to the buds and are best removed so the buds can get more light and grow really big so a person like that will say it's okay to remove leaves whenever. Others, myself included see leaves as they are enrgy collectors/converters that gather the energy of the light source and turn it into food to grow bigger buds.

Removing 3 or 4 leaves from a plant in veg is no big deal though and I understand perfectly the desire to have your plants look as perfect as possible. However, leaves do serve other purpose such as storage of some moisture and also nutrients. So technically when you remove a leaf that hasn't fully discolored and dried up you are causing the plant to lose whatever is stored there. Personally I take this approach, if a leaves developes problems it will likely become too ineffective for the plant, at that point the plant will kill off that leaf draining it of anything useful then allowing it to dry up and drop off. So usually I let the plant manage getting rid of leaves. The only time I'll remove leaves that are in trouble but have not fully died off yet is when they're blocking light to health growth underneath.

Waiting until you move to flower is probably your best bet, less chance of something unexpected happening. As for the transplant if the plant is ready the transplant should go pretty smoothly. You just let the soil dry to where it's time to water and then before you water, transplant. If the plant is ready for a transplant the roots will have grown thru and around the soil enought that it will hold the dirt together. I'm not sure but I think you said you transplanted them to the 12L pots, if so then this transplant should go about the same just on a bigger scale. I've transplanted plants twice the size you mentioned before (80cm or so) and it was no problem. Just have your pot and the new soil ready to go so you can place the plant in its new home and start filling in the new dirt around it right away. One trick I new that could help a bit, get a good sturdy piece of cardboard that a little bigger then the top of the pot you're transplanting from. Cut a slit in it from one side to the center and make the slit wide enough to fit around the base of your plants. With the plant you're going to transplant take the cardboard and slide it over the pot and around the base of the stalk of your plant. Then put your hand on the top of the cardboard, palm down and ythe stalk of the plant in the crock of your thumb and fore-finger. then pick the plant and pot up holding it at the base of the pot with your other hand. Loosen the pot if needed by tapping on it's sides, then flip the plant over such that the carboard is like a tray with the rootball siticking on top of it and remove the old pot and place the plant in the new pot and then remove the cardboard and fill in the new post with new dirt around the rootball. The new pot sould already have however much dirt needs to be in the bottom so that the sides is all you have to fill in. All the cardboard does is make it all more manageable and neater and it keeps any of the loose dirt at the top of your plant from falling into the plant when you flip it over. If done properly the whole transplant shouldn't take much more then a minute or two. When you're done, water you're plant and do the next one, if there is no next one breath a sigh of relief, because you're done.

As for the size, well if you're used to micro grows then yeah a 40cm plant and 12 to 25L pots are huge. For the average indoor grower working with 400W HIDs or better those are normal sizes. A liter is almost the same size as a quart so a 12L pot is about 3 gallons and a 25L pot is about 5 to 6 gallons. It is common for indoor growers using HID's to start in a one gallon pot, transplant to a 3 gallon after about one month of veg. Then veg for about another month and transplant to a 3 gallon and flower. By that point the plant is probably about 60cm and may finish as big as 120 or more cm's although usually if you veg two months or more they won't double in size during flower. For me when I go from a 3 gallon pot to a five the plants are about 3 to 3.5 feet tall (60 to 70cm's) and only get about 4 to 5 feet tall (80 to 100cm's) in flower (those are based on very rough conversions from inches to centimeters done in my head).

 

[HempKat]

Someone told me that a Tri-foliate even though may increase yield its potency is decreased also ? Is this true ?

S_a_H

I've grown a few trifoliates the yield increase is minimal usually and often they grow out of it when they hit alternating nodes. As for change in potency I didn't notice any in the ones I grew. They were as good as other none trifoliates from the same strain.

 

[S_a_H]

I've grown a few trifoliates the yield increase is minimal usually and often they grow out of it when they hit alternating nodes. As for change in potency I didn't notice any in the ones I grew. They were as good as other none trifoliates from the same strain.

Thanks for the quick answer. I actually have a male Deep Chunk I am using in some breeding and someone PM'd me telling that it effects potency.

S_a_H

 

[dschwizz]

Thanks for the info HK. As you correctly presumed, I'm planning on training (scrogging) the plants to keep them from outgrowing my box. Numbers-wise I will probably have less than 6 by the time I am reading to transplant. Today I dumped a couple of plants which didn't make it, bringing the count down to 7 plants. Also, I am still at the stage where I can't sex the plants, and so I am pretty sure I'll end up with fewer when I transplant to the bigger container. That brings me to my next question. When is a good time to transplant? I was thinking about transplanting when I know the sexes of my plants (which are a variety of strains), and tossing the males. The thing is, I don't know if I should be transplanting before that time and culling the males after the transplant. What do you think?

here are some pics of my current pots and one of the plants for reference.

 

[HempKat]

Thanks for the quick answer. I actually have a male Deep Chunk I am using in some breeding and someone PM'd me telling that it effects potency.

S_a_H

Well I'm not saying it absolutely doesn't, I haven't grown so many trifoliates of so many different varieties to be certain it doesn't effect potency. I can say without a doubt the ones I have grown the, the potency did not seem to be effected.

 

[HempKat]

Thanks for the info HK. As you correctly presumed, I'm planning on training (scrogging) the plants to keep them from outgrowing my box. Numbers-wise I will probably have less than 6 by the time I am reading to transplant. Today I dumped a couple of plants which didn't make it, bringing the count down to 7 plants. Also, I am still at the stage where I can't sex the plants, and so I am pretty sure I'll end up with fewer when I transplant to the bigger container. That brings me to my next question. When is a good time to transplant? I was thinking about transplanting when I know the sexes of my plants (which are a variety of strains), and tossing the males. The thing is, I don't know if I should be transplanting before that time and culling the males after the transplant. What do you think?

here are some pics of my current pots and one of the plants for reference.

As long as the plant isn't getting so badly root bound as to cause problems for the plant I say wait until they sex before you transplant. No sense in using resources up on something you may ultimately throw away.

That's not to say you can start a plant in a dixie cup and wait for it to show sex. Let me explain it like this. I typically start plants in a one gallon pot. That's enough room to support my plant for 4 to 5 weeks. At around week 5 it's becoming root bound and I transplant to a 3 gallon pot. Marijuana plants typically show sex around week 6 to 8 but can take longer. Generally speaking after another 4 to 5 weeks the plants are ready to transplant again into a 5 gallon pot and then I go to flower. I wouldn't try to keep them in one gallon pots waiting for sex to show but I would keep them in the 3 gallon pots. I'm saying it wouldn't make sense to waste the resources of transplanting to a 5 gallon pot if the plant hasn't shown sex by then, only to pull the plant a week or two after transplant when it does show sex.

Judging by the size of your pots I'm thinking you may need to transplant or at least trim your rootball some, before they'll show sex. That's a pretty small pot to confine a plant to for 6 to 8 weeks.

Given your space requirements/restrictions it might be a good idea for you to just establish a mother for clones and then use clones to fill your ScrOG. Doing it that way you wouldn't have to wait for sex and since the mother would be mature and showing sex the clones would be fully mature and you wouldn't have to wait for sex before you can even train them but rather start training them almost as soon as they establish roots and then switch to 12/12 when the screen is full. That could happen in as little as 4 weeks once the clones establish roots rather then growing from seed and having to wait 6 to 8 weeks before they show sex and you can begin trainining. Also clone plants tend to grow a little shorter then their from seed versions.

 

[alk_loid]

Hey Hempkat and anyone else.
I modificated my exhaust ventilation today.
removed one nasty angle it had, and raised my carbon degree so hot air would exhaust there better.

Question is, (look picture) is this normal.
my fan dosent make big suction, i mean it exhaust good i think (nothing to compare) if i put my hand close to it i feel suction, put 6-8 inches away i dont feel anything.
its 4 or 5 inch vent with same sized ducting so i assume i dont feel it because it draws air around it . not straight from my hps (not aircooled hood just ductings end is close to light
how about you guys?

also my ambiend room temp is around 73F and cab in there is about 84-86F
i think its kinda normal that under hps and inside cab temps rise 10degrees. or am i wrong?

drawing air from window helps but this is not very optimum for my situation.

maybe i made carbon scrubber terribly wrong and it stops so much air(too much carbon? or too big scrubber?) or ducting too long? though i cant really make it really shorter than it is now.


this forum teaches english well

thankyou all.

 

[HempKat]

Hey Hempkat and anyone else.
I modificated my exhaust ventilation today.
removed one nasty angle it had, and raised my carbon degree so hot air would exhaust there better.

Question is, (look picture) is this normal.
my fan dosent make big suction, i mean it exhaust good i think (nothing to compare) if i put my hand close to it i feel suction, put 6-8 inches away i dont feel anything.
its 4 or 5 inch vent with same sized ducting so i assume i dont feel it because it draws air around it . not straight from my hps (not aircooled hood just ductings end is close to light
how about you guys?

also my ambiend room temp is around 73F and cab in there is about 84-86F
i think its kinda normal that under hps and inside cab temps rise 10degrees. or am i wrong?

drawing air from window helps but this is not very optimum for my situation.

maybe i made carbon scrubber terribly wrong and it stops so much air(too much carbon? or too big scrubber?) or ducting too long? though i cant really make it really shorter than it is now.


this forum teaches english well

thankyou all.

Well how much suction you feel depends on the strength of the fan, the way you describe it sounds fairly normal though. As for your temps, now that I see that your light isn't exactly air cooled the temps make more sense. Most air cooled lights are sealed such that the heat they generate is almost completely pulled out of the room. Since your's is not actually air cooled your temps are about normal and if you can't really use the window your only other option would be to lower the ambient heat in the house by turning your furnace down to say 68. That may not be comfortable for you though and if not mid 80 temps is not horrible but it's at the edge of what I consider safe but just barely so you want to try and make sure it doesn't get any hotter in there.

You're not wrong in saying it's normal for temps to go up 19 degrees with an HPS in a small cab but it's not a good idea to use that as a rule. Depending on the size of the cab and the strength of the exhaust it could be lower or higher. I've seen lights push temps up as much as 20 to 30 degrees in a poorly ventilated space and as little as 2 or 3 degrees in a well ventilated space (although that's using true air-cooled lights).

 

[alk_loid]

but if i could somehow split cabinet with some glass. would this help? and how much light glass takes away?

i lowered the light so much that the fan inside what makes air go around and breeze the plants is about same height. seems it makes light more cooler. wopidoo.

 

[zingablack]

hey wats up i was thinking about super cropping my plants because they are gettin to tall i know very little about how this is done and how it effects the plants i was just told this is what i should do please explain thanks ZB