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Spider mites won’t die!

I’ve tried Dr Zymes and Plant therapy and these full grown mites will not die. I feel like the combination of my spraying and the mites are making my plants so unhealthy. I’m still vegging but I don’t know what to do. What will happen if I try to flower and the mites don’t die? Do mites affect the plants that much to where it will affect the final product?
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Can you still pick them up, to dunk them fully in a bucket/bath?

Adults drown. They don't have any way of closing their airway. Waters surface tension is what stops them drowning in the rain. You just need a wetting agent. I have seen off a couple of infestations with just wetting agent.

At typical room temps, we get about 3 days before the juveniles are laying more eggs. Then a similar 3 days to hatch them. That's the window between applications. Eggs don't drown so the juveniles need drowning. This means a dunk every 2 or 3 days, for about a week.

You can spray, but you can't miss a single one. Meaning quality atomisers. Which are actually quite cheap due to their mass production as covid sterilisation devices. Some are actually ultrasonic foggers, with lithium batteries and charger.

Try it... just pull a leaf that's crawling, and pop it in a glass with some water and a splash of washing up liquid. You can't really put washing up liquid on plants, but in a glass you can see how pesticide is just a waste of everything.

A good application is key. Tip up a plant and use it to stir a bucket, loosing any bubbles.
A poor application with chems is as good as inoculating them against that treatment. That's how we have resistant mites. They can't resist drowning though. Don't teach them..
 

donwalter

HOMBRE
Veteran
Unfortunately, spiders mites have learned to form an air bubble on their backs, from where they breathe, so as not to drown. A violent shower would be better, otherwise, the best thing would be to launch phytoseiulus persimilis, you can buy them online.
OIP.32pWHJw9pRgg44ZsjUC8uAHaDu

Greetings...
 

H.Marks

Active member
Coccinellidae is your answer do you have them where you are, get a few and put them on the plant, they love to eat all sorts of mites.

220px-Coccinella_magnifica01.jpg
 
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chilliwilli

Waterboy
Chrysoperla carnea is also a good predator for mites.
A friend of mine used a sulphur evaporator late in flower when he got the fuckers and had good results. He said it had no influence to the endproduct but i couldn't test that on my own.
 

H.Marks

Active member
Chrysoperla carnea is also a good predator for mites.
A friend of mine used a sulphur evaporator late in flower when he got the fuckers and had good results. He said it had no influence to the endproduct but i couldn't test that on my own.

I have seen something familiar here in the south of france. Quite regularly...
 

Greenheart

Active member
Veteran
Neem Oil foliar applications have always worked for me. As f-e states, complete coverage and repeat applications are the key when battling mites. I have seen places on treated plants where fan leaves matted together during application. This left the back side of leaves untreated and were the only areas I saw mite damage once I applied the neem treatment.

I am unsure of your plant sizes. I had my best success by defoliating all my larger fan leaves prior to the neem oil application. To apply you mix the oil with soap and water. The mites can't palate the neem oil. It has been a few years but I think I remember applying it daily for about a week. This worked on Thrips as well.
 

jackspratt61

Active member
I’ve tried Dr Zymesl and Plant therapy and these full grown mites will not die. I feel like the combination of my spraying and the mites are making my plants so unhealthy. I’m still vegging but I don’t know what to do. What will happen if I try to flower and the mites don’t die? Do mites affect the plants that much to where it will affect the final product?

Calcium hydroxide at 2g/L or so up to ph 11 followed by a light vinegar ph 3. Let the solids from COH settle and use the clear liquid. Works well.
 

H.Marks

Active member
Ladybirds or ladybugs will do the job guys and naturally.

They have voracious appetites for mites...
 

944s2

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I don’t know if your in the states as you may not be able to purchase there,,,,
but DR Schimmel,,,,,( send some to New Zealand or OZ iirc)
had bad mites once,, a good few years ago and in week7 of bloom,,,
Sprayed once with lights off,,,,annihilated all mites,,,
Even got the Dr on the phone when he was on the motorway to treble check I would not ruin the crop,,
Crop unaffected,,potency,,,aroma and taste all there,,,
Stinks though even a little bottle once opened,,
In an ideal world then predators ,,,
 

Ralph W. Llama

Active member
I use 1 teaspoon of 151 rum, edible soap (Dr. Bronners or other) and cooking oil each in a quart spray bottle of water. Spray top and bottom of leaves and coat stems every other day for 2 weeks, then maintenance sprays about once a week until flower. I usually alternate with regular water to help wash off the residue and only cook with the leaves. Super cheap, easy to use, safe and very effective.
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
I have personally witnessed mites tolerance to some of the well known miteicides . I was surprised to see how well the below more natural approach worked. Its very inexpensive and I recommend trying it. I saw it with my own eyes. It killed all of the adults instantly and I checked days later and none of the eggs had hatched. I'm not claiming to be a scientist but because of the multi-ingredients and the way it attacks its hard for the mites to build a tolerance to it. Also if you dont already have one purchase a USB microscope.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ej-NJjEJJ6U
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Sometimes clones are the problem because they carry mite eggs from one garden to another. The problem with letting mites go into flowering is when you vape the weed you vape the bugs too. To be honest, I would scrap this grow and scrub everything down, and allow two weeks to pass before I start another one. When I start a new one I would use a preventive bug spray weekly for all the plants for a month. Right before flowering give the last spray and keep your fingers crossed.😎
 

Cuddles

Well-known member
When I moved into my current flat I had a MASSIVE borg problem and couldn´t get rid of them for years and years. It wasn´t just the balcony but also the living room etc.
Anyway:
Whichever suggested methods you choose to apply to the nasty borg, make sure you absolutely clean everything before your next grow. I mean the grow pots, the entire grow space and so on. If you´re growing in a space that has painted walls you can additionally repaint the walls as well.
 
UPDATE: I got some predator mites and they didn’t do a thing. 2 days after I released them they are nowhere to be found. Is it possible they were eaten by the spider mites I was trying to kill? Sigh don’t know what to do
 

zachrockbadenof

Well-known member
Veteran
they r Mo-Fo's - i hate em - i have clones, and see those fukers - i hit em with avid last week, earlier this week i hit em with neem, and 2 days ago i hit em with floramite - tomm i will hit em with safers soap, and once they are in the tent, i will spray em a few times each week, alternatimg what i spray em with... they are Mo-Fo's
 

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