What's new
  • Please note members who been with us for more than 10 years have been upgraded to "Veteran" status and will receive exclusive benefits. If you wish to find out more about this or support IcMag and get same benefits, check this thread here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

Bloom!!!

LizardMan

Member
Just curious to what everyone is using for their bloom regiment for organics, whether it be teas(aireated or anaerobic), seed sprouts, minerals or what have you... Just curious to see the difference everyone has
 

St. Phatty

Active member
no high P Bat or Seabird guano at the hardware store.

thinking about using bone meal - to mix into the water, to make a tea.

but I have the impression it's not quite as water soluble.
 

Azeotrope

Well-known member
Veteran
The "high P" methods are complete BS! Your soil generally has more than enough P in it. Boosting P as a way to bolster yield is an old wives tale. Your plants will only consume so much of any nutrient/element/compound no matter how much you throw at it.

There is some solid science that shows we generally undershoot on K a bit. K has been proven to signal terpene and resin production but, again, you can throw all you want at your soil and the plants will only take what their genetics and conditions allow.
 

HHILL

Active member
I’m trying buildabloom from build a soil this year. What Azoetrope says may be true, but throwing on something that is amino based and chelates available nutrients makes me feel better.
 

Azeotrope

Well-known member
Veteran
I’m trying buildabloom from build a soil this year. What Azoetrope says may be true, but throwing on something that is amino based and chelates available nutrients makes me feel better.

Agreed!

There is value in adding aminos, certain sugar sources, and other plant extracts for sure! I am not suggesting that it is likely to be harmful to add sources of P. Just pointing out that pushing P into the soil/medium is of little direct value.

I would suggest pushing for the availability of P. My plants grow in a living bed(s) that have extremely diverse inputs, a thriving herd, and a large/healthy worm population.

P is often quite present at very high levels in the soil. It is availability that must be sorted. Critters/micro-herd/worms are the way to make sure the plant can get it as needed and as the plant can use it.
 

LizardMan

Member
Ya i agree the plant can only take up what it wants or needs and we can help "push it" a little... Im just curious on everyones battle plan and strategies...

My self i build a very strong soil, then build up the biology like worms and microbes, and come to this time of year the cover crop has been chopped and dropped as well as alphalfa matt been built up

And my teas consist of seed sprout for enzymes and worm castings/ fungal wood chip and kelp/fish teas...

And its all in moderation, no need to over do it.

Sorry if this is hard to read, heavily medicated!
 

LizardMan

Member
Was thinking of steeping some wood ash in water and pouring off the water as a fertilizer... Should be soluble potash, but i do t know if that's caustic potash or sulfate potash?
 

Azeotrope

Well-known member
Veteran
Was thinking of steeping some wood ash in water and pouring off the water as a fertilizer... Should be soluble potash, but i do t know if that's caustic potash or sulfate potash?

That is a risky game that I have lost at once or twice. If I sense the soil might be running a little light about 2wks in 12/12 I like to mix some (a little) hardwood ash with, azomite, a little ewc, baked\ground egg shells, and a little P guano. Then top dress and water in. I usually have some rabbit and llama manure around and will generally add a layer every 2wks the whole grow.

Most of my flowering concerns are adding K, S, MG early flower. For that I add a top dress of langbeinite which is already in there to some degree. Then top dress with a couple of piles of chopped cilantro/coriander and celery under the mulch right after. The worms go nuts on the celery and cilantro. Talk about signaling resins/terpens!!!! Absolute balls out. I am quite sure extracts of the two are part of the bottled "signal" or resin enhancers. They are mostly plant extracts and a good dose of K.
 

CrossBones

Active member


Indoors -- lately been using Roots Organics Uprising Bloom in not so great quanities, as well as their Grow and Foundation. I'm lazy, but plants look great under LED.

Outdoors -- a Milorganite type product made locally for $4 per 50 lb bag. Good Shit.. literally.
 

Azeotrope

Well-known member
Veteran
A good strong dose of Bloom City Organics seaweed extract (7 species of kelp/seaplanta) right at the switch and a week or two in makes for a lot of bud sites.

This is one plant I rescued from the forest next to my back deck. It was one 6" tall and as skinny a toothpick stem with two tiny little leaves at the top. I had tossed some seeds from a Snow Moon male and two Golden Tiger females that I bred. Brought it in, buried it too the leaves, added bloom city kelp juice and have been amending/feeding as I mentioned earlier. My wife thought I was nuts to devote one whole tent and a 30gallon bed to such a weary little bugger. Not far into flower. About 30days. Will probably go 80. Reeks of lemon and earthy/hashiness.
 

Attachments

  • 8022DA66-0662-4DFA-AF95-05CFA56D4D34.jpg
    8022DA66-0662-4DFA-AF95-05CFA56D4D34.jpg
    114.9 KB · Views: 61
  • B2F90D64-FFCA-434A-8F9B-BF8CCAEE4A84.jpg
    B2F90D64-FFCA-434A-8F9B-BF8CCAEE4A84.jpg
    120.7 KB · Views: 58
  • F0DDEB47-2922-4AE6-83AD-95AF2C5D80B6.jpg
    F0DDEB47-2922-4AE6-83AD-95AF2C5D80B6.jpg
    101.1 KB · Views: 64
G

Guest

I have no vested interest in pushing a method but last few grows I have used aerated tea with either high N or high P guano mixed 50/50 with fresh EWC and a couple spoons of molasses bubbled with a fish tank aerator. I only make a gallon at a time and use the high N mix once about a week after flip still and then the high P about every 7-10 days thru week 6-8 depending on how they look by week 8. Sativia types for me are 75 days plus more or less and last two weeks they dont get tea just the liquid fish fert. Plus some epsom and biomin all the way thru from couple weeks after flip a few times.

Im no expert but my plants seem to do better with the tea. I do agree less is more but there has to be more than just the soil IMO if your in 5 gal or less pots. And thats exactly worth what you paid for it.
 

LizardMan

Member
Wnats the celery and cilantro have?... Id thibk they be mostly water, but again most bottle bud boosters are as well lol
 

Azeotrope

Well-known member
Veteran
I have no vested interest in pushing a method but last few grows I have used aerated tea with either high N or high P guano mixed 50/50 with fresh EWC and a couple spoons of molasses bubbled with a fish tank aerator. I only make a gallon at a time and use the high N mix once about a week after flip still and then the high P about every 7-10 days thru week 6-8 depending on how they look by week 8. Sativia types for me are 75 days plus more or less and last two weeks they dont get tea just the liquid fish fert. Plus some epsom and biomin all the way thru from couple weeks after flip a few times.

Im no expert but my plants seem to do better with the tea. I do agree less is more but there has to be more than just the soil IMO if your in 5 gal or less pots. And thats exactly worth what you paid for it.

If you are in small pots or 5gallon buckets, you should just go the chem route.
 

mexweed

Active member
Veteran
I'm in 5 gal and it works fine, I only feed the tea 5 weeks out of a 9 week flowering cycle, plain water first and last 2 weeks, I also use chlorinated municipal tap water, it's primarily genetics that impact how a plant will perform
 

Azeotrope

Well-known member
Veteran
I'm in 5 gal and it works fine, I only feed the tea 5 weeks out of a 9 week flowering cycle, plain water first and last 2 weeks, I also use chlorinated municipal tap water, it's primarily genetics that impact how a plant will perform

I got over the tea brewing process many years ago. For me, building a really rich and diverse soil bed is the easiest. The most work I put in after that is mixing quality seaplant juice into the watering and occasional top dressing and throwing inputs in my bins that are in a rest/recharge cycle. Even when I put 4-5 plants in one bed, my yield per plant is much higher. Never any risk of over or undershooting on nutes. Much more steady feed/conditions for the plants.

It is what works best for me. I am not suggesting it is the best way for everyone. I know that many don't have the space and they do well in smaller containers. I have limited grow space at the moment for sure. This is just how I max out yield and quality.

Wishing you all well!
 

St. Phatty

Active member
once i met a guy at the grow supply who was loading up on Sulfur.

He said he gave it to his plants in the same amount as NPK, or PK in flowering.

i don't think he was BS'ing me.
 

LizardMan

Member
Mexweed your 100% right alot comes doqn to genetics but if their isnt anything for the plant to uptake it will be a poor representation of the genetics.

Curious about the sulfur since epsom salts (magnesium sulphate) and other additional to ones regime have sulfurs. Binded in different ways?

If your soil is dialed in really well its hard to fine tune the other inputs to make any difference.... Small things like supporting branches can help with adding weight, but not resin production
 

mexweed

Active member
Veteran
there's an article from skunk magazine titled stunning cannabis flowers: chitin, sulfur, and silicone

I know bananas have sulfur and I think even unsulfured molasses might contain some naturally and not from treating the sugar cane
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top