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    #16
    I'm in 5 gal and it works fine, I only feed the tea 5 weeks out of a 9 week flowering cycle, plain water first and last 2 weeks, I also use chlorinated municipal tap water, it's primarily genetics that impact how a plant will perform

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      #17
      Originally posted by mexweed View Post
      I'm in 5 gal and it works fine, I only feed the tea 5 weeks out of a 9 week flowering cycle, plain water first and last 2 weeks, I also use chlorinated municipal tap water, it's primarily genetics that impact how a plant will perform
      I got over the tea brewing process many years ago. For me, building a really rich and diverse soil bed is the easiest. The most work I put in after that is mixing quality seaplant juice into the watering and occasional top dressing and throwing inputs in my bins that are in a rest/recharge cycle. Even when I put 4-5 plants in one bed, my yield per plant is much higher. Never any risk of over or undershooting on nutes. Much more steady feed/conditions for the plants.

      It is what works best for me. I am not suggesting it is the best way for everyone. I know that many don't have the space and they do well in smaller containers. I have limited grow space at the moment for sure. This is just how I max out yield and quality.

      Wishing you all well!

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        #18
        once i met a guy at the grow supply who was loading up on Sulfur.

        He said he gave it to his plants in the same amount as NPK, or PK in flowering.

        i don't think he was BS'ing me.
        Never Under-estimate the Psychopathic-ness of a Politician

        who is in Save the Children Mode.

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          #19
          Mexweed your 100% right alot comes doqn to genetics but if their isnt anything for the plant to uptake it will be a poor representation of the genetics.

          Curious about the sulfur since epsom salts (magnesium sulphate) and other additional to ones regime have sulfurs. Binded in different ways?

          If your soil is dialed in really well its hard to fine tune the other inputs to make any difference.... Small things like supporting branches can help with adding weight, but not resin production

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            #20
            there's an article from skunk magazine titled stunning cannabis flowers: chitin, sulfur, and silicone

            I know bananas have sulfur and I think even unsulfured molasses might contain some naturally and not from treating the sugar cane

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              #21
              Originally posted by mexweed View Post
              there's an article from skunk magazine titled stunning cannabis flowers: chitin, sulfur, and silicone

              I know bananas have sulfur and I think even unsulfured molasses might contain some naturally and not from treating the sugar cane
              Absolutely! Sulfur is critical! Resin/terpene production. I use langbeinite for Sulfur/Mag/K.

              I add a silicon source. Cattails in the worm bin or compost pile will bring silicon. There is a mineral/mined product i use as well.

              My worm bins get Dungeness crab and shrimp shells. The soil mix gets crab/lobster meal. They bring the chitin.

              Manganese is often overlooked. So is boron.

              Azomite adds most of the stuff like manganese and boron. Fe - Iron is also critical to a point.

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                #22
                What part of the cat tails do you use azetrope?

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                  #23
                  I'm maybe 3-4 weeks away from going into flower. I'm trying to get some monster LST plants. also i started 3 of the 9 like two weeks after the main plants. and than i have two that were started like another 4 weeks after that, but i didn't LST them, so they're right on par. What I did was take a large amount of fish bone meal and mixed it with equal parts of a gypsum/humic acid mix. Than I added a decent bit of kelp, karanja, humic acid, agsil, and than a tiny bit of a Zn/Cu/Mo/B/Mn/humic acid mix I got off BuildASoil. Than today I foliared in MnSO4 and KSO4. I don't have any ferments currently, or I would add some as well, but I may just get some molasses at the store later. Or water in some organic apple juice from sprouts that actually has a decent amount of sugar. Or water in some kombucha.

                  I may do this once more before flower, and I will start to use humic with every watering in the next couple of days to really get that stuff breaking down.
                  https://www.phytogenesis.org

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by CrossBones View Post


                    Indoors -- lately been using Roots Organics Uprising Bloom in not so great quanities, as well as their Grow and Foundation. I'm lazy, but plants look great under LED.

                    Outdoors -- a Milorganite type product made locally for $4 per 50 lb bag. Good Shit.. literally.
                    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milorg...ental_concerns

                    I would seriously reconsider using that on a cannabis plant.
                    https://www.phytogenesis.org

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by LizardMan View Post
                      What part of the cat tails do you use azetrope?
                      I use the tops and the stalks. I don't want to encourage anyone to go out and act irresponsibly towards wetlands but, a few from an area free of pollutants is of benefit.

                      Corn cobs have a decent amount of silica as well.

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                        #26
                        Corm cobs take a long time to get used up i was wondering about the fluff in the cat tails taking a while as well...

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by LizardMan View Post
                          Corm cobs take a long time to get used up i was wondering about the fluff in the cat tails taking a while as well...
                          Yes, corn cobs do take some time. A healthy and vigorous worm population will handle them well if they are chopped/broken up.

                          Cattail tops take time as well. The stalks and leaves make great mulch that will break down over time and add nutrient value. They also add durable fiber for good soil texture.

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                            #28
                            Do you use bins for your worms, or do you use an outdoor bin for worms?

                            Do you grow in beds outdoor?

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by LizardMan View Post
                              Do you use bins for your worms, or do you use an outdoor bin for worms?

                              Do you grow in beds outdoor?
                              I keep my worm bins indoors. For growing I use living beds indoors (full of worms) that go a harvest or two and then are sent to the garage with organic timothy hay as a mulch. I let the worms work on them and feed them kelp meal, veggie scraps, llama and rabbit manure, azomite, and the ground up stems from previous harvests. After a few months, I might add some langbeinite, more manure, organic alfalfa meal and such and bring them back in for another round. I also add more castings. I feed the worms in the bin while growing. Celery and coriander/cilantro. From time to time I add a little pumice, hardwood charcoal, and maybe some coco fiber between grows.

                              Charred egg shells, birch leaves, crab/shrimp shells, raw fish scraps, cattails, and ........ whatever else comes through the kitchen and is not eaten. No red meat/chicken/pork.

                              The dedicated worm bins process the same kind of inputs and provide fresh castings to add in or top dress as needed.

                              I only water, feed the worms, and top dress a little while growing, a little molasses (rarely), some Bloom City Klean Kelp as well.

                              Really random and easy. Very productive!

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                                #30
                                What size of beds are you using to want to keep it as a living bed?

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