Local materials

[40degsouth]

The bread yeast spray was interesting and plants given this spray seemed to be doing better than their sister plants in terms of colour and bud density, maybe because of the sugar l added to propergate the yeast. Of course there are a lot of variables in this statement but is still worth further investigation for plant health and l believe in some way it has an ability to suppress other pathogens, just not the one at my location.
I found no dose that could brown pistils.
As a side note I observed a male l pulled, that was sprayed afterwards, to go completely brown within about 36hours and one l didn’t stayed green for a lot longer. My theory is that the yeast ate the sugars in the chlorophyll very quickly. This led me to believe that it might be a good addition to garden maintenance anyway.

 

[40degsouth]

The chlorine spray was the one that l was most excited about but again had no effect as senescence approached. It was the most effective but l stopped spraying with about three weeks of flowering to go and this didn’t help.
I went from weekly sprays to every second day but to no avail. I even modified the mix by adding wetable sulphur, as a tank mix, after researching it and deciding that it should be alright because they’re both on the same side of the periodic table. I couldn’t find any other information for this and that was my only basis for the decision, it did work though and left a nice coating on the leaf after stripping all the biology away with the chlorine.
The brown pistil stage occurred at 12 tea spoons of prilled chlorine to 20 litres.
I should also add that chlorine becomes more available in water ph’d to 7 and my water runs at a bit over 8.

 

[40degsouth]

So l think all these sprays could have their place in an IPM and l even thought the chlorine spray might be effective against russet mites or thrips.
Unfortunately for me though it’s back to the drawing board and I’ve resigned myself to the understanding that it’s only through good selections when breeding that l can beat this stuff. I did have a bit of success this year so don’t feel too bad for me.
Cheers 40.
P.S. I’ll edit if l think of anything else

 

[Microbeman]

So l think all these sprays could have their place in an IPM and l even thought the chlorine spray might be effective against russet mites or thrips.
Unfortunately for me though it’s back to the drawing board and I’ve resigned myself to the understanding that it’s only through good selections when breeding that l can beat this stuff. I did have a bit of success this year so don’t feel too bad for me.
Cheers 40.
P.S. I’ll edit if l think of anything else

Thank you 40deg. You have prodded me to share some encouraging results myself. This is not a silver bullet but could be helpful to some. I read some articles explaining how coconut oil is an anti-fungal agent for humans, used internally and topically.
Caprylic acid, lauric acid and capric acid are three fatty acids contained in coconut oil which have antifungal properties-effect.

I do have ongoing issues with fungal infections resulting in reddish/dry patches of skin and some gut issues. I decided to try some pure coconut oil which I found at the grocery store. I began with about 1 ounce ingested daily along with topical applications to affected areas. I increased this to 2 ounces pretty quickly after no bad effects. This resulted in quite a massive gut die-off of yeast.

Some major stanky poops, etc. The results over 1 month were quite amazing (to me). My flaky skin patches subsided. I found that I had to keep using it as a prophylactic, so I guess my system is prone to fungus. I am now ingesting 1 ounce every 2nd day or so and applying what's left in the shot glass to my skin.

This made me think I might try it on the plants but applying oil to plants is not easy without a GOOD emulsifier; lecithin powder, polysorbate, egg yolk, etc.

I read that the same agents are found in coconut water and luckily coconuts are abundant locally. We diluted it 100 ml per litre and sprayed foliage and drenched roots of infected plants. I am fortunate that my cannabis was not infected.

Over a period of 6 weeks the fungus (PM) was suppressed. For my Hydrangea the plant virtually came back to life. I was surprised that Rosemary gets PM. For the Rosemary the coconut water was about 80% effective. Sorry I do not have more accurate photos.

Hydrangea before and after treatment

Rosemary before and after treatment

 

[40degsouth]

Hi everyone,
I’ll just remind you that there are more results for this experiment on the previous page.
That’s fantastic MM, you must be very pleased with those results. I’m now wondering if the coconut oil is the first cold pressed, extra virgin that goes solid in the jar, or something else?? Do you think mass produced, bottled coconut water would do the same thing??
I’ve tried to beat this particular disease with all sorts of concoctions over the last few years and slavishly prepared lacto sprays, sulphur sprays, act’s etc, etc.
one particular spray I’ve thought of and done major amounts of research into is a creosote based spray.
It’s actually used in medical applications to kill nerve endings, in a liquid form, so it obviously has a very strong chemical effect. It also is carsonagenic so withholding periods will, probably, need to be used??
I’m not sure I’ll get around to it now because l need to change my focus to breeding.
That Mexican volunteer looks interesting.
Cheers, 40.

 

[h.h.]

Hi everyone,
I’ll just remind you that there are more results for this experiment on the previous page.
That’s fantastic MM, you must be very pleased with those results. I’m now wondering if the coconut oil is the first cold pressed, extra virgin that goes solid in the jar, or something else?? Do you think mass produced, bottled coconut water would do the same thing??
I’ve tried to beat this particular disease with all sorts of concoctions over the last few years and slavishly prepared lacto sprays, sulphur sprays, act’s etc, etc.
one particular spray I’ve thought of and done major amounts of research into is a creosote based spray.
It’s actually used in medical applications to kill nerve endings, in a liquid form, so it obviously has a very strong chemical effect. It also is carsonagenic so withholding periods will, probably, need to be used??
I’m not sure I’ll get around to it now because l need to change my focus to breeding.
That Mexican volunteer looks interesting.
Cheers, 40.

Yucca extract.

 

[40degsouth]

Thanks HH but I’m sure it’s not available here. Any other recommendations??

 

[h.h.]

https://www.researchgate.net/public...ca_L_A_new_function_of_RIPs_for_plant_defence

https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fpls.2018.00146/full

 

[Microbeman]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypS96LGN6WY

 

[HorseBadoritiz]

Whaaaaaat?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dq-1G6Wif8s

 

[h.h.]

Thisss

https://youtu.be/b_X_SWuwM7k

https://youtu.be/nFJtD3y3n08

 

[40degsouth]

Thanks for the homework h.h., very much appreciated.
I’ve found yucca tables at a health food shop and yucca stem powder, that isn’t water soluble. l’m not sure about importing the water soluble yucca root powder on ebay????? I’ll try and make some discreet enquires.
Thanks for the musical interlude guys, I’ve enjoyed that too, put a big smile on my face.
Cheers,
40.

 

[h.h.]

Thanks for the homework h.h., very much appreciated.
I’ve found yucca tables at a health food shop and yucca stem powder, that isn’t water soluble. l’m not sure about importing the water soluble yucca root powder on ebay????? I’ll try and make some discreet enquires.
Thanks for the musical interlude guys, I’ve enjoyed that too, put a big smile on my face.
Cheers,
40.

I thought maybe it grew in your area. I’ve made tea out of it which appeared to have effect on what I believed was powdery mildew. It is antifungal. I’m not sure it’s worth buying. Not for that anyway. My evidence is only anecdotal.

Kelp4Less is a good source, if that’s available.

 

[Microbeman]

Whaaaaaat?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dq-1G6Wif8s

good ole doc

 

[40degsouth]

Thanks h.h.
Yep l use liquid kelp as a soil conditioner and sometimes in teas. I amp it up around the end of January when the plants are transitioning into flower to help with the flowering hormone productions. I believe the plants begin flowering weeks before we even see the first pistils.
I also apply kelp meal and rock phosphate at the end of December so it starts becoming available around this time.
Anyway...yucca extract seems like a good fungal preventative due to the saponin in it and the film it puts over the leaf. This, along with your kelp question, made me wonder about agar doing the same thing. Turns out agar can be mixed with fungicides to prevent fungal development in petri dishes when trying to culture bacteria in lab conditions and is the industry’s standard practice. Alternatively this means that agar can be inoculated with bacteria, or of course fungi, to coat the surface of a plant or leaf.
Things like BT, ACTIVATED trichoderma (thanks MM) or maybe even Actinovate and Serinade Could benefit immensely from this and live on the plant, outcompeting other organisms and pathogens, for much longer than previously able. I can’t think of any reason why other nutrients couldn’t also be added.
What does everyone else think of this hypothesis??
Cheers,
40.

 

[h.h.]

When I lived in the Mojave Desert, I used a lot of decomposed yucca for tea. Used as a foliar, you could see how it coated the leaves because it left a brown tint. I felt it worked as a sunscreen. The plants seemed to do better in the heat. Overall the plant looked healthier.

Agar might be a good candidate.


https://plantcaretoday.com/wetting-agents.html

Yucca

Agave

 

[40degsouth]

Hi everyone,
sooooo, it turns out the melting point of agar is far to high to be practical for this application, as is the setting point. If it didn’t clog up the sprayer it would set as a globule on the leaf instead of a film......but......gelatine has a very low melting point, below 36degC and has many of the same properties with a few extra nutrients and acids in it.
It obviously couldn’t be used in veganics but maybe the best option I’ve found so far. Perhaps Microbeman could do a bit of an experiment for us, or some other like minded gardeners??
Here’s a good, short read, l found on the subject you might find interesting. WWW.Oxoid.com
Cheers,
40.

 

[h.h.]

Can use use a surfactant?

Conclusions
Gelatin-based films containing hydrophobic plasticizers (ATB, TB and ATC) and the saponin extracted from Y. schidigera (yucca) as surfactant, showed good mechanical resistance (TS), low values of water vapor permeability and reduced drying times. However the films presented limited elongation, considerable solubility and opacity. Although in the visual analysis the films were homo- geneous with no porosity, when observed at a microscopic level (SEM) they showed roughness with the presence of pores inside the cross-section. The possibility of using a natural surfactant such as yucca may allow for new applications such as those presented in this study and should be thoroughly investigated.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/academia.e...8022a4a24f71f3a59f09105281cf08f11ea8fcb0f8f3a

 

[40degsouth]

I think we’re nailing it down now h.h. Looks like the gelatine won’t interrupt the function of the stomates, so.... activated gelatine + yucca powder (extract) = longer leaf protection that can be applied as a foliar.
I can’t see any reason why a surfactant shouldn’t be used, I’m pretty sure there are natural, plant based ones, that use things like dandelion and corn starch.

One thing l was wondering is how did you actually prepare your yucca off the plant??
Cheers,
40.

 

[h.h.]

I used down and dead yucca schidigera off of private property. It takes about a year with it half buried in the sand. The bark is cork like and holds in a lot of moisture, creating mini ecosystem within. Beautiful humus covered stuff easily dissolvable in water.