looks good. how many grams you got from last grow?
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Chevy's blumatized organic soil LED mini grow
- Thread starter Chevy cHaze
- Start date
The small tent was around 400g under 2 TS1000s and the big one under the reflector unit was roundabout the same. Both strains and setup not dialed in at the time but they are now.
Hey all,
Sorry it's been a bit quiet over here, I moved house but will post an update shortly. I made some changes and added a Mars Hydro 200w Reflector Unit to the 400w one that was already in the tent (anyone still remember those? it's the one with the blurple light), for a total of roundabout 600w of LED power in a 120cmX120cm or 4'X4' space. These units are roughly 6 years old, never failed me, all diodes still intact and doing great. Only maintenance I do is wipe off the diodes and reflectors with iso alcohol periodically, mostly if a bud has accidentally touched them and left a thick resin imprint. Well this is not a retro thread but have to mention that I could not be happier with quality and durability. I mean these units still have fans!
The DoSiDos ladies are looking crazy good now and do really well under these lights.
Having tried some of their TS 1000 lights gave me a taste of what's currently possible with LEDs and I'm tempted to go all in and try one of their new models from the SP range with the even better diodes.
I'll keep you posted and pictures coming soon!
Take care,
CC
Sorry it's been a bit quiet over here, I moved house but will post an update shortly. I made some changes and added a Mars Hydro 200w Reflector Unit to the 400w one that was already in the tent (anyone still remember those? it's the one with the blurple light), for a total of roundabout 600w of LED power in a 120cmX120cm or 4'X4' space. These units are roughly 6 years old, never failed me, all diodes still intact and doing great. Only maintenance I do is wipe off the diodes and reflectors with iso alcohol periodically, mostly if a bud has accidentally touched them and left a thick resin imprint. Well this is not a retro thread but have to mention that I could not be happier with quality and durability. I mean these units still have fans!
The DoSiDos ladies are looking crazy good now and do really well under these lights.
Having tried some of their TS 1000 lights gave me a taste of what's currently possible with LEDs and I'm tempted to go all in and try one of their new models from the SP range with the even better diodes.
I'll keep you posted and pictures coming soon!
Take care,
CC
Well I'm about 5 years late, but the table-top distiller is for water. It's too aggressive for alcohols. I use one for spirits, but with a variac and watt meter, running much lower power. The lid can stay on 240 using an iec lead, so it's not also slowed down.
With the power lower, you get a more controlled boil. Alcohol will boil lots easier than water. Even giving the condenser longer to work, it will still stink though.
You would need to measure your distillate as an idea of what's left. It might be better to not use the boiler at all. Just put your mix in a transparent vessel that pipes to the lid. It's all a bit awkward though, as even that rubber seal makes your product unsuitable for consumption in the UK. The usa sell spirits in plastic bottles, but we only allow hdpe and ptfe. There is no suitable tube.
Perhaps mixing some water with your iso/oil extract is possible. As you warm the solution, the iso should leave, and your oil and water won't mix. The iso and oil mix very well, so some salt might be needed. Salt only dissolves in water. Making it heavier, and so the iso and oil separate, with the iso on top, carrying the oil. The question remains, if the iso will leave, giving an oil slick on the water. In theory you would boil off the iso, which has a cooling effect on the water. Then once the iso stops coming, the smell would change. Then after a pause for the water to reach boiling point, the dripping would start again. At that point, you stop. As you only have oil and water in the vessel now. You don't really want to reach water distillation temps, but it's only 100. Call it part of the be-boxa-whatsit process.
You would find the oil sat on the water, but emulsified. Looking like a white froth you might find below a weir.
I have done the salt separation a few times. It's a good cleaning method. The iso and oil float together, and there is this emulsion layer. Then the water, where the dirt and green colour seem happiest. I siphoned if off though, it wasn't a heat process
With the power lower, you get a more controlled boil. Alcohol will boil lots easier than water. Even giving the condenser longer to work, it will still stink though.
You would need to measure your distillate as an idea of what's left. It might be better to not use the boiler at all. Just put your mix in a transparent vessel that pipes to the lid. It's all a bit awkward though, as even that rubber seal makes your product unsuitable for consumption in the UK. The usa sell spirits in plastic bottles, but we only allow hdpe and ptfe. There is no suitable tube.
Perhaps mixing some water with your iso/oil extract is possible. As you warm the solution, the iso should leave, and your oil and water won't mix. The iso and oil mix very well, so some salt might be needed. Salt only dissolves in water. Making it heavier, and so the iso and oil separate, with the iso on top, carrying the oil. The question remains, if the iso will leave, giving an oil slick on the water. In theory you would boil off the iso, which has a cooling effect on the water. Then once the iso stops coming, the smell would change. Then after a pause for the water to reach boiling point, the dripping would start again. At that point, you stop. As you only have oil and water in the vessel now. You don't really want to reach water distillation temps, but it's only 100. Call it part of the be-boxa-whatsit process.
You would find the oil sat on the water, but emulsified. Looking like a white froth you might find below a weir.
I have done the salt separation a few times. It's a good cleaning method. The iso and oil float together, and there is this emulsion layer. Then the water, where the dirt and green colour seem happiest. I siphoned if off though, it wasn't a heat process
Wow that's great stuff f-e!
But in the meantime I have abandoned the idea alltogether hahaha.
Once was enough. A shame I ruined that destiller... probably still 50g worth of oil in it. In the lid, in the fan, electronis it spilled everywhere and then cooled down. What a nightmare and luckily I took precautionary measures before plugging it in...
I'm now using a crockpot in winter or simply a glass vessel and let the iso evaporate naturally in summer. takes a bit longer but much more stealth and no fire hazard.
Thanks anyways!
Best
CC
But in the meantime I have abandoned the idea alltogether hahaha.
Once was enough. A shame I ruined that destiller... probably still 50g worth of oil in it. In the lid, in the fan, electronis it spilled everywhere and then cooled down. What a nightmare and luckily I took precautionary measures before plugging it in...
I'm now using a crockpot in winter or simply a glass vessel and let the iso evaporate naturally in summer. takes a bit longer but much more stealth and no fire hazard.
Thanks anyways!
Best
CC
Hey just thought I'd share these couple flowering dosidos ladies with you. Didn't do a proper report, but they're getting quite juicy with just under 4 weeks to go.
Smell is super nice and already had to put some jojos in to keep the from falling over.
I'm using my old, trusty Mars Hydro reflektor units (600w&300w) in my 120cmX120cm/ 4'x4' tent. These lights have been going strong for years now, proper old school blurple lights hahaha.
Cleaning the diodes and reflector with iso from time to time is all the maintenance they need, that's it.
I like these a lot, and really curious what their newer lights can do. I have a couple TS1000s which are also great but will try out one of their new models with the samsung diodes soon I think to see how far these have really advanced by now.
Top dressed some high P bat guano to give them an extra boost.
Smell is super nice and already had to put some jojos in to keep the from falling over.
I'm using my old, trusty Mars Hydro reflektor units (600w&300w) in my 120cmX120cm/ 4'x4' tent. These lights have been going strong for years now, proper old school blurple lights hahaha.
Cleaning the diodes and reflector with iso from time to time is all the maintenance they need, that's it.
I like these a lot, and really curious what their newer lights can do. I have a couple TS1000s which are also great but will try out one of their new models with the samsung diodes soon I think to see how far these have really advanced by now.
Top dressed some high P bat guano to give them an extra boost.
Attachments
wow, glad to hear that you were still using the old purple light. Very nice maintenance work. 
plants look good too. 
plants look good too.
I'll take some pics under white lights asap to show their true colors.
900w LEDs in total might be a bit overkill but the ladies seem to like it and I think they will continue tto swell up for another two weeks or so.
Also, with this amount of light, even the lower shoots are developing nicely and won't have a lot of popcorn from what it looks like.
Back soon
CC
900w LEDs in total might be a bit overkill but the ladies seem to like it and I think they will continue tto swell up for another two weeks or so.
Also, with this amount of light, even the lower shoots are developing nicely and won't have a lot of popcorn from what it looks like.
Back soon
CC
Put together a new tent in the meantime, again one of the small 120x60/4'x2 that I like a lot.
Most importantly I'm using a new new light, a Mars Hydro SP3000 that I wanted to get my hands on for a while as it's a perfect fit for the tent dimensions.
I will run a full report on this light and setup that I'm pulling out from my ongoing ongoings thread and will most likely add it to the Mars Hydro subforum.
The light looks and feels very solid, let's see what it can do!
I'm using a computer fan for air circulation during lights off and then the circulating fan kicks in when the lights go on.
The tent is a Secret Jardin Dark Street 120w(ide).
I can't turn the light up all the way without going blind so it's at lowest setting rn and also probably a good idea to take it easy as the plants will need to adapt a bit.
Plants are DoSiDos clones, but they have been waiting in limbo for too long and now look poorly treated. I kept them in tiny plastic pots and have just up-potted them to 15L/4gal fabric pots with a mix of CAnna coco+, worm castings and perlite and for food some guanokalong complete organics powder (3kg for 100L of soil)
EDIT: I might use different clones for this grow, will decide once I have decided where to put this report.
Most importantly I'm using a new new light, a Mars Hydro SP3000 that I wanted to get my hands on for a while as it's a perfect fit for the tent dimensions.
I will run a full report on this light and setup that I'm pulling out from my ongoing ongoings thread and will most likely add it to the Mars Hydro subforum.
The light looks and feels very solid, let's see what it can do!
I'm using a computer fan for air circulation during lights off and then the circulating fan kicks in when the lights go on.
The tent is a Secret Jardin Dark Street 120w(ide).
I can't turn the light up all the way without going blind so it's at lowest setting rn and also probably a good idea to take it easy as the plants will need to adapt a bit.
Plants are DoSiDos clones, but they have been waiting in limbo for too long and now look poorly treated. I kept them in tiny plastic pots and have just up-potted them to 15L/4gal fabric pots with a mix of CAnna coco+, worm castings and perlite and for food some guanokalong complete organics powder (3kg for 100L of soil)
EDIT: I might use different clones for this grow, will decide once I have decided where to put this report.
Last edited:
Hi guys,
The DoSiDos ladies are still recovering but doing much better now. Will post some pics a little later.
While I'll keep going with this thread here, I have also started a new thread to explore growing possibilities under a MH SP3000 light in the Mars Hydro forum.
I'm growing some thick SourBlueberry and BlueBerry from my own selected mothers in a SCROG in organic soil with Blumats.
https://www.icmag.com/forum/icmag-v...erry-sourblueberry-organic-soil-blumats-scrog
The DoSiDos ladies are still recovering but doing much better now. Will post some pics a little later.
While I'll keep going with this thread here, I have also started a new thread to explore growing possibilities under a MH SP3000 light in the Mars Hydro forum.
I'm growing some thick SourBlueberry and BlueBerry from my own selected mothers in a SCROG in organic soil with Blumats.
https://www.icmag.com/forum/icmag-v...erry-sourblueberry-organic-soil-blumats-scrog
They still look a bit under the weather after the weeks of neglect.
A couple good feedings have them recover and grow again.
The plan is to grow lots of tall shoots which I can then lay flat and weave into a SCROG.
So not letting the plant grow into the screen but laying a tall(ish) plants shoots flat onto the screen and then flowering shortly after.
A couple good feedings have them recover and grow again.
The plan is to grow lots of tall shoots which I can then lay flat and weave into a SCROG.
So not letting the plant grow into the screen but laying a tall(ish) plants shoots flat onto the screen and then flowering shortly after.
Ok you've seen the ladies and now get ready for some hard bondage hahaha
As I said the plan was to grow the tall and then slip the screen on from above before laying all the shoots flat across the screen.
And here's another one more at canopy level
I'm giving them a bit of time to recover and then they'll be flipped next weekend.
As I said the plan was to grow the tall and then slip the screen on from above before laying all the shoots flat across the screen.
And here's another one more at canopy level
I'm giving them a bit of time to recover and then they'll be flipped next weekend.
Attachments
Here's a quick update from the 4 plant scrog.
They've been under 12/12 for about 10 days now and first pistils are starting to show.
I've put in a second TS1000 and maybe I'll even put a third one in later in flower, just for the overkill aspect
Screen is filled out nicely and virtually no open spots left in the canopy.
Now let's see those buds!!!
Here's one under the screen, will give them a cut shaving of the legs soon, there is no light penetrating through the canopy and hence all the lower growth has to go.
Back soon, take care,
CC
They've been under 12/12 for about 10 days now and first pistils are starting to show.
I've put in a second TS1000 and maybe I'll even put a third one in later in flower, just for the overkill aspect
Screen is filled out nicely and virtually no open spots left in the canopy.
Now let's see those buds!!!
Here's one under the screen, will give them a cut shaving of the legs soon, there is no light penetrating through the canopy and hence all the lower growth has to go.
Back soon, take care,
CC
Update!
The DoSiDos ladies are doing fine, we're just over 2 weeks of flower now.
Flowers are starting to form and they seem to have grown out of the problems they had in the beginning. You can still see some older leaves that were
displaying the problems discussed in my threads around growing with new high-output LED lights. My solution to it seems to have been to feed well, add some CalMag and keep the lights dimmed down enough for the start. I'm sure that now that they're healthy they can soon take much more light. I think it's about keeping plant tissue intact in the beginning so the plant can do what it does and grow by keeping light intensity in the reasonable range. Full blast from start will definitely fry everything in sight even if the distance light to plant looks ok. In my experience when you think it's just right, then dim the light a bit again and/or hang it slightly higher than you normally would. These lights are really intense compared to the blurple ones from the past
Speaking about blurple lights from the past.
Here are four DoSiDos ladies in 15L/4gal smartpots that got a bit of extra veg time:
BTW all my current plants are in the recycled soil from the last round. coir, ewc, perlite, Guanokalong complete organics powdered nutes.
Additional nutes will be used when necesary.
The DoSiDos ladies are doing fine, we're just over 2 weeks of flower now.
Flowers are starting to form and they seem to have grown out of the problems they had in the beginning. You can still see some older leaves that were
displaying the problems discussed in my threads around growing with new high-output LED lights. My solution to it seems to have been to feed well, add some CalMag and keep the lights dimmed down enough for the start. I'm sure that now that they're healthy they can soon take much more light. I think it's about keeping plant tissue intact in the beginning so the plant can do what it does and grow by keeping light intensity in the reasonable range. Full blast from start will definitely fry everything in sight even if the distance light to plant looks ok. In my experience when you think it's just right, then dim the light a bit again and/or hang it slightly higher than you normally would. These lights are really intense compared to the blurple ones from the past
Speaking about blurple lights from the past.
Here are four DoSiDos ladies in 15L/4gal smartpots that got a bit of extra veg time:
BTW all my current plants are in the recycled soil from the last round. coir, ewc, perlite, Guanokalong complete organics powdered nutes.
Additional nutes will be used when necesary.
Looking good Chevy! a dark period also helps reduce the DLI from high powered LEDs during veg..
fwiw i have started using gypsum (4g / litre) and dolomite lime (2g/litre) to try and bump up the calmag.. seems to be working so far,
VG
fwiw i have started using gypsum (4g / litre) and dolomite lime (2g/litre) to try and bump up the calmag.. seems to be working so far,
VG
Thanks VD,
By dark period, do you mean: 18/6 or any light scheme that has a "night" or a period of complete darkness to help with recovery after too much exposure?
I have used dolomite in the past with good results, just not the last couple rounds as I wanted to give these powdered guanoklaong nutes a try that you mix into your soilless mix. Basically an effort to get around having to source all the ingredients for Lavender Cowboy's mix, some of which I cannot source where I currently live.
Thanks for stopping by pal, hope all is good on your end
CC
By dark period, do you mean: 18/6 or any light scheme that has a "night" or a period of complete darkness to help with recovery after too much exposure?
I have used dolomite in the past with good results, just not the last couple rounds as I wanted to give these powdered guanoklaong nutes a try that you mix into your soilless mix. Basically an effort to get around having to source all the ingredients for Lavender Cowboy's mix, some of which I cannot source where I currently live.
Thanks for stopping by pal, hope all is good on your end
CC
yes, its the total light they get during the whole 24hrs, the DLI, that matters - so if the light is battering them during the day, a longer night helps. i use 16/8 for veg in one of my very small cabs where there isn't the height to get the distance between light & leaves. it really helped.
as for sourcing stuff i often use ebay or amazon, you can get most things and none of it needs to be canna specific really.
VG
Aha I see! And makes lots of sense in my eyes. Also this puts the problems I had when I had cuttings under 24/0 literally under "a different light" hahaha
Mon dieu the sourcing--- I used to be able to get everythign while still in the UK, but now I can't get blood meal and bone meal where I live :-(
I can get coco, perlite, kelpmeal, ewc, dolomite...
What alternatives for N and P do exist? alfalfa? Bat guano (which I could get)?
The kalong organic complete mix seems to be a good ready alternative but has its limitations... if you use too little you'll get deficiencies quickly and if you use too much you have way too much N in there for small grows with little veg time.
Mon dieu the sourcing--- I used to be able to get everythign while still in the UK, but now I can't get blood meal and bone meal where I live :-(
I can get coco, perlite, kelpmeal, ewc, dolomite...
What alternatives for N and P do exist? alfalfa? Bat guano (which I could get)?
The kalong organic complete mix seems to be a good ready alternative but has its limitations... if you use too little you'll get deficiencies quickly and if you use too much you have way too much N in there for small grows with little veg time.
