I really need some help- ORGANICS. very frustrated. with pics

[intotheunknown]

locked out?

wait a minute. everyone who has posted has basically given me a different answer, from the need more of this or that, to not feeding them, to fungus problems, i mean which one is it?
i am even more so confused now than i ever was.

i am trying to find a solution, and i cannot rely on guess work.
i am really just beyond frustrated at this point. and i apologize for it. i just dont know what to do. i have spent so much time, and hard work. not to mention an insane amount of money, which inst getting any cheaper.

 

[treefrog]

With that mix, unless you have some crazy ass, high PH water, the odds of lockout are on par with a Sasquatch sighting.. They're hungry.

How is your water? Have you checked the PH, or had any issues with it in the past?

 

[redneck shogun]

I would follow MM's advice

 

[treefrog]

Also, what KIND of water are you using?

 

[intotheunknown]

Also, what KIND of water are you using?

the PH of the soilless mix is around 7
the ph of the bubbled 24 hr tap water is around 6.5-7
and the ph of the tea is around 6.5

so i dont have any crazy out of range ph levels.

 

[treefrog]

I'd give them some nitrogen and magnesium. 1 tsp of epsom salts per gallon. You can foliar feed with the epsom salts too.

One thing that happens at times.. People give their plants an environment that is very productive. In that case, especially in veg, the plants need a lot of nitrogen and magnesium, because they want to GROW. This may be what's going on with you. Good soil, good ventilation, temps, light.. They might be looking for some 'juice'. There are people around here a hell of a lot smarter than I, but my intuition, and experience, after looking at your pictures, says they are hungry for N and mag. Good luck to you! I hope you figure it out.

 

[I'm Dykster]

Next time you need to water, flush them first, then feed them. Trim damaged leaves and give her time to come back.

 

[guest2012y]

Remember that dolomite is an excellent source for Cal. and Mag. It's in there,and so is the food.

 

[treefrog]

That's true.

 

[Microbeman]

I understand your frustration. Nailing down problems with photos on a forum is difficult and as you pointed out everyone says something different. It is also difficult for me because the way I grow/grew does not coincide with the mix and plant formulae on this site. If I were you right now, I'd do some research on the internet and check with your local nursery expert. It could well be N lock out combined with rust. Plants which are nutrient deficient are easy targets for pathogens. Nitrogen lock out or lock-up can be caused by too much raw organic nitrogen or carbon substances mixed into the depths of your soil. The microorganisms may be using up all the available nutrients to degrade these raw substances and not sharing them with the plants, effectively locking them out. If you are confident that your castings are good, mixing up a thickish slurry with a bit of molasses and pouring on the surface should help with a lock out. Alternatively use quality fish hydrolysate dilution. At the same time I'd treat for rust. If you have to use a nasty fungicide just wait for a while before flowering.

It is a shame that you have spent lots of money because growing naturally can and should be cheap. Look into the subject of living soil for your next go around. Look up some posts by Jaykush and see that he does not spend a dime at the grow shop. When you have living soil, pathogens become less problematic. Read 'Teaming With Microbes' by Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis. It is not a perfect book but an excellent overview of organic gardening.

EDIT: someone said to trim the infected leaves; good idea.

 

[guest2012y]

I understand your frustration. Nailing down problems with photos on a forum is difficult and as you pointed out everyone says something different. It is also difficult for me because the way I grow/grew does not coincide with the mix and plant formulae on this site. If I were you right now, I'd do some research on the internet and check with your local nursery expert. It could well be N lock out combined with rust. Plants which are nutrient deficient are easy targets for pathogens. Nitrogen lock out or lock-up can be caused by too much raw organic nitrogen or carbon substances mixed into the depths of your soil. The microorganisms may be using up all the available nutrients to degrade these raw substances and not sharing them with the plants, effectively locking them out. If you are confident that your castings are good, mixing up a thickish slurry with a bit of molasses and pouring on the surface should help with a lock out. Alternatively use quality fish hydrolysate dilution. At the same time I'd treat for rust. If you have to use a nasty fungicide just wait for a while before flowering.

It is a shame that you have spent lots of money because growing naturally can and should be cheap. Look into the subject of living soil for your next go around. Look up some posts by Jaykush and see that he does not spend a dime at the grow shop. When you have living soil, pathogens become less problematic. Read 'Teaming With Microbes' by Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis. It is not a perfect book but an excellent overview of organic gardening.

EDIT: someone said to trim the infected leaves; good idea.

Listen to this guy^^^^^^

 

[iSMOKE.KUSH]

/agrees with tree frog

they need some N...looking light, but other than that no biggie.

to be honest i never bug out when i see a few leaves being affected by shit like this. they really dont look that bad.

 

[fishwater]

One thing to remember here, people. The ph of the water you are starting out with makes a big difference, no matter what it is after bubbling nutes etc.

I have 9ph water. I can adjust it with virtually any product or natural way or bubble with nutes until it is 6.5 ph.

BUT, IN A MATTER OF ONE DAY, USING SOME OF THE ABOVE METHODS, THE PH HAS RISEN TO AS MUCH AS 8PH....

Some methods are better than others. What I do now is mix up some citric acid with water, and then, add 8cc of that mix to a gallon of water. PH stays down below 7 for 4 days.

Even some of the store bought ph down rises in a day....

So, what I am saying is, the ph of the water you water your plants with, could also be rising in ph faster than it is used, therefore creating the problem.

Again, it is important to know what the ph of your water is. It could be raising faster than your plants can use it up....

 

[guest2012y]

If you're doing this shit right,then you can hit 'em with a tea of 4.5 one day,and then hit 'em with a kelp meal tea of 9.0 in the next couple of days and they won't even blink. In fact they look like twice as good than before you hit 'em with a killer tea. All the while never touching the ph meter to even check. I agree in some instances it's helpful to check your water before hand......But honestly guys,I do not use a ph meter anymore. It has to be a well built soil mix to start...following all of the directions from the guys that do this shit right.

 

[VerdantGreen]

i would agree that they look hungry - and that all is not lost, if i saw that in my plants the first thing i would look at is if they were rootbound. if not i woud feed them some liquid seaweed or other fast acting food - the wormcast slurry seems popular with many people. my method is different from yours as i mix all the ferts in with the soil and then just water. your pH seems pretty ideal.

i believe they are 3 or slightly more gallon containers.
they have been in there for about 3 weeks- maybe close to a month

for future reference - it is much better to repot a few times, starting with small containers and moving upwards every couple of weeks - the your plants will have bigger rootmass which can help avoid problems like you are having

 

[ixnay007]

One thing to remember here, people. The ph of the water you are starting out with makes a big difference, no matter what it is after bubbling nutes etc.

I have 9ph water. I can adjust it with virtually any product or natural way or bubble with nutes until it is 6.5 ph.

BUT, IN A MATTER OF ONE DAY, USING SOME OF THE ABOVE METHODS, THE PH HAS RISEN TO AS MUCH AS 8PH....

Some methods are better than others. What I do now is mix up some citric acid with water, and then, add 8cc of that mix to a gallon of water. PH stays down below 7 for 4 days.

Even some of the store bought ph down rises in a day....

So, what I am saying is, the ph of the water you water your plants with, could also be rising in ph faster than it is used, therefore creating the problem.

Again, it is important to know what the ph of your water is. It could be raising faster than your plants can use it up....

Depends how alkaline it is, some people have a high PH, but low alkalinity, some people, like me, have a high PH, and high alkalinity (sometimes known as a buffer). In that case, it's easier to use distilled or rain or R/O water, and add cal mag separately.

 

[Microbeman]

for future reference - it is much better to repot a few times, starting with small containers and moving upwards every couple of weeks - the your plants will have bigger rootmass which can help avoid problems like you are having

Hi Verdant,

I realize that this is a conventional gardening method and is well employed by many people but I just wish to point out there is another way. In my opinion optimum soil life and microbial-root interaction is better developed and preserved by planting rooted cuttings or seedlings directly into the soil (the largest container) where they will spend their lives.

 

[dune]

Microbe when i did this i noticed that rooting took a extra 3 weeks compared to when i did step by step transplanting. Well i see nothing wrong with putting a small plant in a larger pot. the person has to understand that pot is gonna not need more then a cup of water every 2 weeks if you soak it once. I think the transplant steps are very important to new to exp growers just cause it take out that chance of over watering, root rot, etc.

 

[VerdantGreen]

Hi Verdant,

I realize that this is a conventional gardening method and is well employed by many people but I just wish to point out there is another way. In my opinion optimum soil life and microbial-root interaction is better developed and preserved by planting rooted cuttings or seedlings directly into the soil (the largest container) where they will spend their lives.

hi Mm, i think it depends on the size of the 'final' pot. if you are talking more than 5 gallons then, providing you can water them correctly which can be tricky for a small plant in a large pot, your way can work fine. if, like me, we are trying to get a big bud yield out of a smaller pot (limited by the size of the cabinet) then i think one gains more root mass by repotting in a timely fashion throughout the grow. also i change the balance of ferts in the soil i use for my final repot when going to flower and the repotting gives me the opportunity to do this

also for less experienced growers i would say that having a pot that is comparable for the size of the plant will lead to less potential problems with overwatering.

VG

 

[guest2012y]

I think everybody here raise a good point. The pot size thing and root growth restriction is something I've noticed,the way each corresponding pot when transplanting does seem to improve plant health and is easier to manage watering use. But I also put freshly rooted cuts in huge pots if it's destined to be a mother for cuttings,and they spend the rest of their lives in there. Both do well.
The biggest problem is that this guy's plant isn't in our space,we can't physically check it out,so we can only go on the info. this guy gives us....(no shit CC1) All the various guessing of what is going on is all we can do.
If he followed the mix directions correctly,the food and dolomite are in there,it couldn't have broken down that fast. The size of the plants themselves is an indicator that they have not consumed hardly any of what's in that mix. There's something wacky with it. It's looks like it has not balanced out yet for some reason. Another guess is that the initial water-in volume wasn't enough to blend the things together and create an environment for the microbes to "squish" around in. My guess is still lockout. Fun,it's like a crossword puzzle for growers.