What's new
  • Please note members who been with us for more than 10 years have been upgraded to "Veteran" status and will receive exclusive benefits. If you wish to find out more about this or support IcMag and get same benefits, check this thread here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

Cheap Nutrient Line for Commercial and Home Grows?

BillFarthing

Active member
Veteran
Any guides for using the Masterblend line with cannabis?


I'm fairly certain that MB is 3/2 and 3.6/2.4 just like Jack's.



Ion Exchange Capacity of the Medium the precipates of prior feedings will allways affect your current feeding. I think thats a point Poeple are often missing.

Would you say that Tissue Samples allways give the right Picture of what a Plants need?



That's why watering to run-off is important. It's why recirculating or DTW coco is popular.



Tissue samples are the best approximation of how to feed your plants at a certain time.



I've never gotten into testing micros. I'm interested what a Calcium Boron bump at transition would do.
 

Quietman

New member
Thank you for this thread and for the information you are willing to share. I recently switched to MB with no supplements so far. I'm in DTW coco, fairly dialed in environment.


If I may, a couple of questions.


If flower set/ stretch happens in a much quicker time than usual, do I discontinue the metasolate at that time?


After weighing the hammerhead ingredients, are they mixed in solution? Ratio? Also, application rate?


thank you again
 

BillFarthing

Active member
Veteran
If flower set/ stretch happens in a much quicker time than usual, do I discontinue the metasolate at that time?


After weighing the hammerhead ingredients, are they mixed in solution?


I usually discontinue Metalosate when the plants start to put on flowers. The timing of extra calcium is the important aspect.



The DIY hammerhead is used at 1g/gallon. You can mix it in whatever liquid concentration you would like.
 

Quietman

New member
I'm sorry to sound so thick headed, but still not clear on the hammerhead.
Do I mix dry ingredients together, then 1g/gal?


I appreciate your response and patience for silly questions.
 

eyesdownchronic

Active member
I don't add extra MAP at transition because it doesn't follow tissue sampling I've seen. A bump in calcium does.


I actually interperted the tissue sample in the opposite way. looks like there is a slow and steady increase in NH4 form N throughout the enitre cycle, whereas NO3 form peaks out mid flower before dropping. i wonder if the plant starts to prefer more NH4 during the later part of the cycle because it is more rapdily converted into protein, so less gets stored? in any case as mentioned by ADHDgrower ive also started supplementing low levels of MAP during transition and into early bloom, only about .2 g per gallon, so extra ammonium levels are below 10ppm. cant say ive seen much of a difference yet but we'll see.


**edit, was thinking about it and the tissue sample may not necessarily correlate to feed recommendations as far as N form goes as NO3 is converted into NH4 and subsequently proteins. so the increasing level of NH4 in the tissue sample could simply be a result of plant physiology preferentially converting NO3 storage into NH4 through the course of the growth cycle.
 
Last edited:

BillFarthing

Active member
Veteran
the tissue sample could simply be a result of plant physiology preferentially converting NO3 storage into NH4 through the course of the growth cycle.


So if you have a fixed base nutrient, the plant along with fulvic acid creates and uses what it needs without major supplementation. Seems like the tissue samples work to me.
 

Koondense

Well-known member
Veteran
I did some early testing with MB to see how mixing works and pH behaves. Surprised to see it really has to be mixed like MB say, first MB, then MagS and finish with CalNit(parts mixed 2:1:2). If the mix is not 100% diluted, it will leave some residue on the bottom, so a bit of care is essential to mix it as it should be.

Also the pH seems to be around 5.5 even at very high ec(in mixing bottle), so if the water is not too acidic(mine is usually around 7) the mix will not need extra pH adjustments.

So far all looks good, now let's see how plants like it.
Total hydro noob here so don't laugh at my noob post :)



Cheers
 

eyesdownchronic

Active member
Seems like the tissue samples work to me.
absolutely, I very much appreciate you sharing all this information. im relatively well versed on nutrient management but I suppose i never viewed it as such a timing dependent thing.



also wondering if you have any knowledge on the use of polyphosphates with canna. found the product "Haifa grow clean polyphosphate" 5-31-40, and was curious about using it, but I wasnt able to find any information regarding its use for something that is inhaled. it seems to be Na and Cl free. I can't think of any outward reason that it could be harmful, but I would prefer not being the guinea pig who finds out its unfavorable for some reason.
 

eyesdownchronic

Active member
Polyphosphates are used with alkaline water to prevent scale with irrigation in products like Drip Clean. I'm sure it will work as a fertilizer, but it typically has a very specific function for the cost.
yeah, im not using drip right now, but I was thinking to use it for the same basic principal. my water is fairly low ec ~.4 but its rather alkaline, ~ph upper 7's, and will have an almost murky white look to it. im worried tha the high alkalinity will mess with the solubilty of my feed, specifically Ca and P. a concerning thing that i have noticed is when I correct the pH of my feed with phosphoric acid, the Ec will actually drop somewhat, when it should really be going up. im thinking that when i add the h2po4 the po4 just breaks off and preciptates out with Ca making some calcium and phosphorus unavailable.

from what i understand the polyphoshpate will somehow bind to the single phosphates in solution and make it so they won't precipitate out.
i also imagine that if this is happening in my feed, its happening in my substrate as well. another possible solution i considered was switching to PeKacid from ICL as my acid. not sure if it would accomplish the goal but im about out of my ph down anyways, so might as well try.
im also going to start predosing some of the acid to try and correct the water before adding any fertilizer.
 

le_toy

New member
@ADHDGrower thank you,

Do not worry, even if my questions make you think that I am a beginner and that I do not think for myself.
I think for myself and I'm not quite a beginner.
The fact of having to look for information and product in 2 different languages ??of my mother tongue certainly accentuates your feelings. ;-)

My mistake has been to learn when and how to use fertilizers, but not to learn how the plant feeds.
My biggest mistake was to underestimate the need for calcium.

"Ammonium will reduce your Media´s PH over Time while Nitrate will increase it."
This could explain why I had the PH of my tank which was dropping all the time with the Green House Hybrids.
About 30% ammonium.


I ordered 2 x 3kg of Part A 5-12-26 Hydroponic from MegaCrop.
I also took 25kg of CALCINIT from Yara and 25kg MKP from Haifa, and I also have 5 kg of epsom salt

I had ordered 1 part A and 1 part B, but part B is 10 times more expensive than Yara's CALCINIT, and it has more calcium
Calnit Yara = 15.5N and 26.5Ca Calnit MegaCrop = 15.5N and 19 Ca

For Fulvic and amino acids I cannot find when I contact the companies that you advise, either they do not answer or he asks me what kind of farmer I am and I no longer have an answer.
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
The only stupid question is one that doesn't get asked.

-Follow the feed schedule on your salt base. It essentially ramps up EC from seedling/transplant -> veg -> transition -> bloom and cuts out for flush.

-Mr. Fulvic/AGT-50 is always 0.5-1ml/gallon drench from transplant through harvest.

-Supplemental calcium is used right before flip either drench or foliar until they stop stretching or show flowers. Usually 1-2 weeks.

-Bloom booster is used week 4-6 of flower. I listed MKP, but I also like the homemade Hammerhead recipe.

-pH Down is used as needed to keep the pH 5.5-6.2.

-Insecticidal soap is used 15-60ml/gal. with Mr. Fulvic at 0.5-1ml/gallon foliar veg through transition. The fulvic makes the soap trans-laminar and provides foliar stress reduction.

This method exactly follows the tissue sample graphs that I always post from Agricen.


[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=73546&pictureid=2041338&thumb=1]View Image[/URL]


[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=73546&pictureid=2034732&thumb=1]View Image[/URL]

^^ images of tissue analysis

Are these entire plants dried and ground.

I know my overall ppm couldn't increase that many fold, so I guess the upward trend is largely based on accumulation. With some changes in trend, which you are adjusting the feed for, knowing they are going to take it.

In the UK we have Solufeed. They have some hydro mixes going back 70 years. I think it was 'F' with 0-18-32 which looks a bit like jacks ratio's if it were a 9 at the front. They suggest Potassium Nitrate and for inert media Calcium Nitrate. I know it's away from the established Jacks/MB ratio's but thought it's requirement for N might interest you. Regarding the need for low N amendments jacks needs. * Some Ca must go in as the Ca&Mg look balanced 1:1 in the base. I haven't had a really good look at it though. I'm actually happy with buying water from GT as their 1 part ionic coco has quite a bit of black sludge in it already.

* This reads badly. I'm saying Calcium Nitrate may not need avoiding, as the N is actually needed. I'm unsure about the Potash Nitrate. I don't like a lot of K. I find it problematic. My best yields of are without it. iirc my base is 1.4 1.5 3.1 and I raise the P (on the whole)
 
@ADHDGrower thank you,



I ordered 2 x 3kg of Part A 5-12-26 Hydroponic from MegaCrop.
I also took 25kg of CALCINIT from Yara and 25kg MKP from Haifa, and I also have 5 kg of epsom salt

I had ordered 1 part A and 1 part B, but part B is 10 times more expensive than Yara's CALCINIT, and it has more calcium
Calnit Yara = 15.5N and 26.5Ca Calnit MegaCrop = 15.5N and 19 Ca

For Fulvic and amino acids I cannot find when I contact the companies that you advise, either they do not answer or he asks me what kind of farmer I am and I no longer have an answer.


It seems the Shop no longer carries that fulvital wsp 80 cause the company no longer makes it, they have a new fulvic wsp 90 now.
Dont know an Alternative, sry.

For Aminos, that Shop sells Siapton which is a good product. Its not suitable to be used in an irrigation tank though, as Amino Acids are great bacterial food.
 
Bill I finally got around to breaking out the Albion Metalsolate Calcium. After reading the instructions it only stated instructions for foliage application. I intended on using this in later flower when buds are showing, is it still safe for foliage during this stage, or can it be used in a drench application?
 

BillFarthing

Active member
Veteran
Albion Metalsolate Calcium . . . is it still safe for foliage during this stage, or can it be used in a drench application?


You really shouldn't foliar when there are flowers on the plant. I might do insecticidal soap if it was an emergency and wash it off the next day.



You can definitely still drench with it all the way through 1-2 grams per gallon, although I have the best success at transition.
 
Can I pull the cal nit and just run Jacks A, Albion M. Calcium, and epsom during transition through ripening? The Albion calcium is listed at 4.5% Ca, 18% N.
 

Lyfespan

Active member
jacks RO plus jacks calnit(boost) and epsom with tap water for coco seems to be really pushing these gals here in veg
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top