*The K.I.S.S. Method*

[Bobby Boucher]

Yeah, I ain’t listening to none of this fixed weight stuff. Sorry.

I’ll feed my smaller plants 250-400 and my bigger plants 600-750. I achieve those numbers using way less than 7 grams per gallon.

Bout to just bite the bullet on a couple big bags of jacks, tho.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

tried to make an account to try using the search function

No need for an account, the search function is extremely limited. Most search engines these days allow you to search for results at a single site. Google uses "site:<url> <keywords>" So your search would look like:

site:icmag.com CHS azadirachtin

This will pull up all threads on icmag with CHS and azadirachtin mentioned.

 

[Bobby Boucher]

I think she just wanted to join the fun, but ultimately shied away. Payed close enough attention to figure out how not to kill our plants and then went about her business as usual.

I certainly opt for google’s search function, every time.

I asked google how to ask google. I asked google how to wipe my own ass. I am definitely one with the Google.

 

[blackcat54]

Beginner here, will grow my first batch this summer outdoors in soil and outdoor pots using Black Magic potting mix in the pots with added pearlite, worm castings and cour. Read the first 89 pages of this thread.

Wondering if I should use M. Bloom? I already have on hand the following: Maxicrop seaweed extract, Ocean Magic minerals, Myco+, Flower Fuel, Blood Meal, Bone Meal, Humic Acid powder, and Sustane 4-6-4 fertilizer.

Maybe M. Bloom is not needed with all the above?

Or just add it and see what happens?

 

[blackcat54]

ALSO......

Been looking at Chicken Soup For The Soil, havent seen it mentioned on this board. This product claims to support the soil microbiome which will in turn supports healthy plants. I read that synthetic fertilizers decimate the soil microbiome and was wondering how Maxi Bloom affects life in the soil?

 

[WillyNilly]

No need for an account, the search function is extremely limited. Most search engines these days allow you to search for results at a single site. Google uses "site:<url> <keywords" So your search would look like:

site:icmag.com CHS azadirachtin

This will pull up all threads on icmag with CHS and azadirachtin mentioned.

I did not know that - thanks !

 

[raCURE]

Got 8 zkittlez girls going on this method vs my mates 8 on a costly nutrient kit and he is amazed how healthier and bigger my plants are in comparison.

Think he’s going to become a convert ! Haha

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

WTF happened to this thread?

It's K.I.S.S., and somewhere along the line the stupid has been maxxed out and the simple seems to have pissadeared. lol

This method is designed for new growers to be able to grow without thinking. New growers should be focused on the reactions of the plant during growth/flower. The K.I.S.S. method makes this possible by simplifying to Maxibloom and pH up. That's it. All the rest of the 'nutrient' thinking is supposed to happen after you have learned the 'plant stuff.'

Whatever. lol

 

[Morcheeba*]

Beginner here, will grow my first batch this summer outdoors in soil and outdoor pots using Black Magic potting mix in the pots with added pearlite, worm castings and cour. Read the first 89 pages of this thread.

Wondering if I should use M. Bloom? I already have on hand the following: Maxicrop seaweed extract, Ocean Magic minerals, Myco+, Flower Fuel, Blood Meal, Bone Meal, Humic Acid powder, and Sustane 4-6-4 fertilizer.

Maybe M. Bloom is not needed with all the above?

Or just add it and see what happens?

you probable wont need any MB unless your plant uses all available nutes in the soil and if so id still skip MB and stay organic and use wc tea or AACT.




peace

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

*facepalm*

 

[Joint Lock]

Just wanted to post that the ppl who are having yellowing leaves using MB are due to one of 2 things .



Over use of epsom salts *sulfur is locking out stuff*

Your using to much Maxi its to hot and u need to tone it down. Due to lighting not intense enough.

Just delt with this using maxi only diluted down to 4.5-5g per gallon maxi only all is well in my DWC .

Was reading some ppl having yellowing leaves . dillute down in hydro with water (remove couple gallons and add back PH water)

Soil Skip few feedings using only PH Water NO FEED . Then start back at 1-3 grams of maxi per gal and (no epsom salt). CAL MAG is fine .

The leaves start yellowing from the middle out on central veins when these issues arrive . Also kinda looks like Potassium (K) def ,Mag def or calcium lockout

I couldnt figure it out .Thus until i talked to another grower whos been using MB from the early 2000s when they used to pkg it in little plastic tubs


Hopefully this helps someone who gave up on MB due to this issue i know i was ready to pull my hair out for the longest

 

[raCURE]

zkittlez day 14 flower on MB only

zkittlez day 14 flower on MB only

RaC

 

[nelson420]

When you start with r/o water and add Maxibloom, the pH drops to around 4'ish. Add pH up in Roots-In systems until you reach 5.4. Roots-Out systems you want around 5.6. As your plants remove the nutrients, they're removing the natural pH down they are and the pH will slowly rise as the days pass. It should reach 5.8-6.0 within 7 days at the start of flowering. Too slow means you have too many gallons of nutrient for your plants/light-wattage. Too quick means you have too few gallons of nute mix.

I am growing with pure coco in DTW. Hand watering daily. Checking runoff.

My tap water is very clean, around 30-40 ppm, and pH of 6.0 - 6.5.
When I add the Maxibloom it gets red in my GH Drop ph kit, around ph 4. I then add phUp until it reaches pH 6 (yellow on my GH PH Drops). I water daily.

Do you recommend pHing to around 5,4 instead? When I hand water daily with the same pH, does the plant still have time for a natural pH swing?

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

I am growing with pure coco in DTW. Hand watering daily. Checking runoff.

My tap water is very clean, around 30-40 ppm, and pH of 6.0 - 6.5.
When I add the Maxibloom it gets red in my GH Drop ph kit, around ph 4. I then add phUp until it reaches pH 6 (yellow on my GH PH Drops). I water daily.

Do you recommend pHing to around 5,4 instead? When I hand water daily with the same pH, does the plant still have time for a natural pH swing?

When you're working with a Roots-Out system there's a natural pH swing between waterings. It's not as big as in Roots-In systems, but it still makes a difference.

Vary your pH a little each time, with the goal of having the pH drop (In the root zone) to 5.4 between waterings. This is going to depend on your conditions, the strength of the solution, frequency of watering and more. I'd test a plant up to 6.5 and down to 5.5 over a week period, then vary one end or the other of the pH range the next week. Essentially dial it in with only one change at a time.

 

[Shogun10]

Thank you IC for this thread and the wealth of info. My first shot at growing and at first I was researching a simple soil and water method. Once I found this thread, I settled on KISS in coco running drain to waste. It has been quite the learning experience and I’m happy with how I’m progressing. I setup a very automated system where I’m just checking plant health, ph, and progress.


For the first week of transplant I ran .5 tsp/gal of maxigro following week of veg I ran .5tsp/gal maxigro & .25tsp/ MB (per GH feed chart).

I then flipped to 12/12 ran .75tsp(4.8g)/gal mb that week to slowly transition

Day 8 into 12/12 I jumped on the 7g/gal mb train and have been rollin ever since. Plants have been loving it with no signs of any issues. I’m also running 2.5ml/gal Cali magic, 1tbsp Epsom/20 gal, .5ml/gal drip clean and have used R/O water the entire time. Haven’t checked PPM’s, but I PH up til I get the piss yellow color in the ph kit. basically a step below neon yellow. I think it’s maybe 5.8ish?

my plan this run is to taper to .5tsp/gal on week8 finish with dry koolbloom. Then flush on week 9 (9-10week strain)


Day 21

 

[ErOsion9o]

Hey guys, Ive successfully grown two nice plants in coco using this method however i have moved over to DWC. Currently using 5g/gal as to avoid over feeding. Im sitting at week 1 @500PPM 6.0PH. The res has dropped to 450PPM and i am wanting to use the ad-back method. What i cant figure out is the formula required to adback 150PPM to bring it up to 600PPM. Does anyone have the formula? I know theres a formula going around for the original method but it doesnt seem to add up. Thanks in advanced for your help

 

[JP12345]

Newbie here starting with 2x20gallon reservoirs in dwc. Just want to check that this method (maxibloom only) is still relevant in 2020?

 

[H G Griffin]

Newbie here starting with 2x20gallon reservoirs in dwc. Just want to check that this method (maxibloom only) is still relevant in 2020?

I consider MaxiBloom my base nutrient. I've done very well with straight MB, but find my grows benefit with the addition of some silica and magnesium sulfate. I read my plants for amounts, some seem more sensitive to the MgSO4, though I've never seen a reaction to the silica.
I have plenty of calcium in my tap water, so haven't seen any need to add more.

tldr: maxibloom works and works well, but can be tweaked for improvements.

edit, added for clarity: I grow passive hydro, mixed in small batches.

 

[Chris P Bacon]

Hey guys, Ive successfully grown two nice plants in coco using this method however i have moved over to DWC. Currently using 5g/gal as to avoid over feeding. Im sitting at week 1 @500PPM 6.0PH. The res has dropped to 450PPM and i am wanting to use the ad-back method. What i cant figure out is the formula required to adback 150PPM to bring it up to 600PPM. Does anyone have the formula? I know theres a formula going around for the original method but it doesnt seem to add up. Thanks in advanced for your help

How much of that 600ppm is purely nutrient?

Try

A1=Desired PPM
B1=Actual PPM
C1=g per gallon of nute in original mix
D1=Res size in gallons

=(A1-B1)/(A1)*C1*D1

=(600-450)/(600)*5*5

That will give you the total g to add to the topup water to bring the PPM and rez back up to the original level.

I think that is correct but I take no responsibility for it, however, I just finished a grow (link below) and pretty much exclusively used 1g per litre for add-backs and just adjusted by eye if the ppms started going up or down. I made a metric spreadsheet to work out add-back but never really used it. My first grow I messed up by not taking the ppm of the tap water or pH down in to account and underfed them through veg.

https://growdiaries.com/diaries/54691-ilgm-girl-scout-cookies-extreme-grow-journal-by-doofus-mcfluro

 

[JP12345]

I consider MaxiBloom my base nutrient. I've done very well with straight MB, but find my grows benefit with the addition of some silica and magnesium sulfate. I read my plants for amounts, some seem more sensitive to the MgSO4, though I've never seen a reaction to the silica.
I have plenty of calcium in my tap water, so haven't seen any need to add more.

tldr: maxibloom works and works well, but can be tweaked for improvements.

edit, added for clarity: I grow passive hydro, mixed in small batches.

Thanks for your response.



Would Potsil provide the silica? Or would it be better to use silica on its own? Would Potsil provide too much extra potassium?


And presumably Cal-Mag for the magnesium (if the calcium levels in my water aren't too high)?


I don't currently know the calcium content of my water, but I do know that my tap water has a pH of around 8.