What's new
  • Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

*The K.I.S.S. Method*

Richkuewe

New member
Damn that was fast !

Damn that was fast !

1.0ec of maxigrow works great with cuttings, increase to 1.1-1.2 for larger veg plants. With osmosis water you may get a mag deficiency so you should add either epsom salt or a cal-mag supplement. Fuck one part maxibloom kiss, using a mix of maxigrow and maxibloom is just as simple and is BETTER for your plants. Using only maxibloom always makes my plants yellow up way too early. I feed by ec and don't give a fuck what the recipe calls for in weight. I think it's insane to go above 1.4ec with any nutes if you aren't using co2. First two weeks of bloom I use 50/50 maxigrow and maxibloom. weeks 4,5 and 6 it's 25% maxigrow and 75% maxibloom. week 7 is all maxibloom and 8 and 9 is water only. I never go above 1.3ec. Don't lock yourself into this 7 grams maxibloom shit, it ain't the best and it's just as easy using maxigrow and maxibloom together for better results.

Thanks so much for the fast response! :thank you:

I thought the same about MG because its simply made for that and using both is just as simple as using only MB. While reading this thread i always thought „why the fuck no one is feeding by ec, it‘s so damn simple“

How much ppm/ec of cal/mag you recommend to add to the osmosis water ?(thought about ~0,2 EC)
Can i use any Cal/mag nute that‘s available because i can‘t get GHE CALiMAGic anywhere in europe.
I have one bottle aptus CaMg boost -> https://www.hydroponics.eu/aptus-camg-boost-5l~31955.html
Sry for the stupid question but i think that‘s the same, isn‘t it? Just wanted to go for sure! :chin:

Do you prefer to let the ph swing around 5,5 to 6,5 or keep it constant at ,for example 5.8?

Can‘t wait to start my next grow and flush that stupid snake oil bottles down the toilet thanks so much, can’t describe how much i appreciate your help! :tiphat:
 

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
The trick to using straight Maxi, with the correct amount of epsom, is having a full and natural pH swing.



Does this look like it's having issues? This is maxibloom at 750ppm under a 1k HPS. The difference is I have a full pH swing in the root zone from 5.4'ish up to 5.8-5.9.

 

Richkuewe

New member
The trick to using straight Maxi, with the correct amount of epsom, is having a full and natural pH swing.

Does this look like it's having issues? This is maxibloom at 750ppm under a 1k HPS. The difference is I have a full pH swing in the root zone from 5.4'ish up to 5.8-5.9.

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=70975&pictureid=1808355&thumb=1]View Image[/URL]

the only issue you have is when you need to harvest that monster plants, looks amazing :smoke:

- what kind of system do you have?
- how much is the "correct" amount of epsom?
- can you explain how you let swing your ph (start with cuttlings @ph 5.4 and let it rise to 5.9 and then lower it again to 5.4?) and do you give 750ppm MB from start to finish?


question upon question :chin:
thanks :kissgrin:
 

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
I prefer DWC, which is a Roots-In type hydro (roots are constantly IN the solution). Your desired pH changes a little in Roots-Out hydro, due to the slight pH swing as the media dries out between waterings.


Magnesium is the element with the greatest differences in demand for cannabis. I generally start with .5g/gallon of a quality epsom salt. (Not the hydrate versions, magnesium sulfate) When the plants have a full pH swing often enough, not enough mag will show up as the standard yellowing on the leaves between the veins. Add a bit more epsom. You should be able to chop your plant at any time during flower (no flush), dry it out and NOT get sparking or crackling. ;)


When you start with r/o water and add Maxibloom, the pH drops to around 4'ish. Add pH up in Roots-In systems until you reach 5.4. Roots-Out systems you want around 5.6. As your plants remove the nutrients, they're removing the natural pH down they are and the pH will slowly rise as the days pass. It should reach 5.8-6.0 within 7 days at the start of flowering. Too slow means you have too many gallons of nutrient for your plants/light-wattage. Too quick means you have too few gallons of nute mix.


750ppm is about maximum for me and the genetics I've run in the past. Read your plants by color, they should look close to what my photo shows. Darker green and you'll be destroying quality, lighter green and you run the risk of deficiencies. I try to grow as light as possible without deficiencies. ;) Less really is 'more' with cannabis. :D


Glad to help. ;) Reservoir management is one of the most often overlooked parts of "hydroponics" and it makes all the difference in the world. :)
 

Richkuewe

New member
still makes me feel insecure

still makes me feel insecure

I prefer DWC, which is a Roots-In type hydro (roots are constantly IN the solution). Your desired pH changes a little in Roots-Out hydro, due to the slight pH swing as the media dries out between waterings.

i have my water pump on 24/7 so the rockwool and the roots never dry out.
i can adjust my water tubes so the roots are completely underwater too, but i only do that at the beginning when the roots are only visible in the rockwool cubes.
After a few days when the spraychamber is full with roots i adjust the water tubes to the bottom to provide them more oxygen and roots are 24/7 sprayed with 360° sprayer

again thanks for the explanation!
but now i still remain unsure whether i should go the "ONLY MB"-way or MG+MB :biggrin::biggrin:
 

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
24/7 pump means a Roots-In system, meaning you treat it just like DWC. :)


Straight MB will grow shorter, stouter plants which (IMO) hold their harvest weight well. Too much nitrogen for me with the Grow, so I've only done it a few times. I definitely would not recommend MB+MG during flower. ;)
 

Dr.Young

K+ vibes
Veteran
I'd go with something like Floralicious + instead of maxigro. At least get some beneficial bacteria\humics.
 

DoDad

Member
I am having issues. My leaves are turning yellow and the leaves are variegated in color.



All I am using is Maxibloom 7g per gallon in 3:1 perlite to Vermiculite and tap water.


What's wrong?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7634.jpg
    IMG_7634.jpg
    87.5 KB · Views: 25
  • IMG_7636.jpg
    IMG_7636.jpg
    89.3 KB · Views: 32
  • IMG_7633.jpg
    IMG_7633.jpg
    79.9 KB · Views: 29

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
I'd go with something like Floralicious + instead of maxigro. At least get some beneficial bacteria\humics.
Floralicious+ is humics. Maxigrow is a vegetative nutrient powder.


I use MB and Floralicious+ together, though I use less than 2ml/gallon of the Floralicious+. Works great. :D
 

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
I am having issues. My leaves are turning yellow and the leaves are variegated in color.

All I am using is Maxibloom 7g per gallon in 3:1 perlite to Vermiculite and tap water.

What's wrong?
What is the pH, ppm of your tap water? What pH are you setting your nutrient solution at?


It looks like 7g is too much, see the tips of your leaves burning up?
 

DoDad

Member
What is the pH, ppm of your tap water? What pH are you setting your nutrient solution at?


It looks like 7g is too much, see the tips of your leaves burning up?


I just use the small green end of the spoon that comes with MB. MB brings my tap down to about PH 6.
 

DoDad

Member
I went and bought some [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Floralicious+ and will add to the MB.
[/FONT]
 

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
All of the advice I give for hydro is with reverse osmosis filtered water, or water as clean as r/o comes out. 7pH, 4-12ppm. The advice I give on pH ranges and how it behaves will work exactly the same for you, when you use r/o water.


With tap water, at least pH after adding nutes to about 6.3-6.5. You'll get significantly better results. Tap water is so variable, I don't consider it a valid grow component in many areas due to quality issues.

What's in -your- water? :D
 

DoDad

Member
All of the advice I give for hydro is with reverse osmosis filtered water, or water as clean as r/o comes out. 7pH, 4-12ppm. The advice I give on pH ranges and how it behaves will work exactly the same for you, when you use r/o water.


With tap water, at least pH after adding nutes to about 6.3-6.5. You'll get significantly better results. Tap water is so variable, I don't consider it a valid grow component in many areas due to quality issues.

What's in -your- water? :D


I checked a while back and it was good. I grew pretty well and never had this problem and didn't' change a thing. I can only use tap water.


I didn't need to add cal mag I recall and the PPM were within limits.


It's got something to do with food/water. They go into shock and turn yellow, loose leaves.



What other fertilizers could I be running in the 3:1 Perlite/vemicutle hempy mix? Maybe it's my Maxibloom.
 

beta

Active member
Veteran
All of the advice I give for hydro is with reverse osmosis filtered water, or water as clean as r/o comes out. 7pH, 4-12ppm. The advice I give on pH ranges and how it behaves will work exactly the same for you, when you use r/o water.


With tap water, at least pH after adding nutes to about 6.3-6.5. You'll get significantly better results. Tap water is so variable, I don't consider it a valid grow component in many areas due to quality issues.

What's in -your- water? :D

If you have clean water tap is great. I live in the Rocky Mountains so our water is as good as it gets. No need for calmag supplementation, my water already has enough. Less waste too, RO systems literally dump 75% of the water down the drain as part of the filtering process.
 

DoDad

Member
If you have clean water tap is great. I live in the Rocky Mountains so our water is as good as it gets. No need for calmag supplementation, my water already has enough. Less waste too, RO systems literally dump 75% of the water down the drain as part of the filtering process.


I wonder if my city did something to the water. My plants go into shock right after I water them every time.


I think I will let my water sit a couple of days before I water it and see if that helps.


If I'm not using Maxibloom what other nutes should I try?
 

hyposomniac

Active member
I am having issues. My leaves are turning yellow and the leaves are variegated in color.



All I am using is Maxibloom 7g per gallon in 3:1 perlite to Vermiculite and tap water.


What's wrong?

You're using a hempy? That's like a bucket that uses it's own bottom as a sip reservoir right?
How often do you water?
I would guess the solution is being wicked up, then the upper area is suffering a lot of evaporation, and nutrient is deposited on the media.. I would guess the EC in the upper part of the bucket is way high, and the pH is way low, and you aren't watering thoroughly enough or often enough to dissolve and wash it away.
 

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
If you have clean water tap is great. I live in the Rocky Mountains so our water is as good as it gets. No need for calmag supplementation, my water already has enough. Less waste too, RO systems literally dump 75% of the water down the drain as part of the filtering process.
I lived in the rocky mountains of Colorado for 7 years, and I did not run into a single place with 'clean' water for cannabis. Awesome for veggies, but not so great for cannabis. A lot of dead wells in mining areas also. Uck.

Technology has changed. With the correct flowrate valve, you get a gallon of garden/wash/lawn water for every gallon of cannabis water produced. It's only a waste when you actually 'waste' it where it cannot be recycled or re-used. ;)

The other reason not to use tap/well water is due to the constant changes it goes through annually. I'm currently using twice the pH down I was using 3 weeks ago. Fortunately it's for plants I don't care about. lol
 

stoned40yrs

Ripped since 1965
Veteran
I am having issues. My leaves are turning yellow and the leaves are variegated in color.



All I am using is Maxibloom 7g per gallon in 3:1 perlite to Vermiculite and tap water.


What's wrong?

What's wrong is ya listened to the other guy instead of me:biggrin: Use a mix of maxigrow and maxibloom instead of straight maxibloom. Feed by ec and keep it under 1.4ec Just because some guys can grow with 7g/gal maxibloom doesn't mean it won't fuck up a lot of other peeps grows by yellowing them out in bloom:tiphat:
 

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
What's wrong is ya listened to the other guy instead of me:biggrin: Use a mix of maxigrow and maxibloom instead of straight maxibloom. Feed by ec and keep it under 1.4ec Just because some guys can grow with 7g/gal maxibloom doesn't mean it won't fuck up a lot of other peeps grows by yellowing them out in bloom:tiphat:
This is the K.I.S.S. thread, which is maxibloom only. When used properly, the quality is significantly higher with *only* maxibloom. Using MaxiGrow is a cheat, and you pay for it by a loss in quality.

Cannabis is a hyper/dynamic accumulator, and excesses of elements are stored away in new growth unconverted. Look up "Phytoremediation" and hyper/dynamic accumulator plants. You'll be glad you did, and so will the people you share your cannabis with.

:tiphat:
 
Top