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*The K.I.S.S. Method*

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    Phosphate rock tends to be relatively high in heavy metals.
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      Hello guys need some help!

      Here we go,ill grow with a 600w hps in a 4x4 grow tent prolly using 3 or 4 plants and scroging them thinking of 40 days veg.
      I am gonna be using soil and as a new grower id like to use this method for the simplicity and why not if proven as good as most people say continue using it in the future.

      I ve red most of the thread but i would like some clear answers since i saw many conflicting points here and also heard some weird shit from friends.

      To my understanding my water ph when feeding should be at 6,5 to 6.8 for soil right?
      Can i use silica to ph up and humics to ph down?Friends told me its not optimal and that the water going in the soil should be 5,8 - 6 but from what i ve read those numbers are for coco and that i should be using the regular ph up and ph down products.

      I cant find KB so ill be doing maxi from start to finish.

      I will use biobizz light mix as my medium and i was wondering when is the best time to start feeding ferts and at what volume to begin with.

      Do you think 4 gallon pots are ok or should i aim for more per plant?

      Am i supposed to check for ppm as well as ph for soil or just correcting ph is fine?
      Am i suppose to ph correct my water feeding sessions?
      Will i neeed micro and mg/cal?

      My tap water is supposed to be at the 7,5 to 8.4 range her and in the medium range for minerals.

      Thats it,any help is highly appreciated! Peace
      When night falls...and when sun rises....

      Comment


        Hey Krusher,

        Lots of debate regarding proper ph for soil growing. As long as it is within range, you're fine. Soils have buffering capacity and tolerate flux. You can use silica and humics to adjust ph as long as the concentrations are in acceptable quantities. Having Ph Up and Ph Down allow you to move Ph without affecting EC.

        I bet with that long of a veg and scrog, you would want to give the plants more space for more rootmass. When they really get going under that 600w hps, they'll get really thirsty and giving them bigger pots will help maintain a healthier root system.

        Get some Cal/Mag and some Epsom Salts. Grab a decent PH meter, get a cheap EC meter. Monitoring nutrient solution ph and ec going into your pots and the runoff coming out will enable you to make adjustments to your feed strength, especially if you're using tap water.

        Hope this helps bro, Good Luck!!!

        Comment


          Hi..pls help.
          Im having magnesium deficiency using maxibloom upto 750ppm and plant is 3rd week in veg. I'm using ro water starting at 12ppm. After reading through the thread I went ahead and used 1gm/gal epsom salt giving me 100ppm and balance upto 650ppm maxibloom was added. For For few days growth seemed ok but again leaves were beginning to yellow from the tips and eventually turn crispy. So I added another 50ppm of epsom salt. So, now the res has 150ppm epsom salts and balance 550ppm maxibloom. Still I'm having issues..
          So, question is how much ppm max of epsom salt could I use? What could be the issue otherwise causing magnesium deficiency?
          after reading through Douglas.Curtis's comments I was convinced regarding using epsom salts along with maxibloom...but now Im worried. Strain is cream caramel from sweet seeds. Other plants are doing fine using epsom and maxibloom.

          Comment


            Hi everyone!
            I've read so much and learnt so many great tips on this thread i'd like to know if someone could give me a good advice about hypothetical use of a booster with the KISS method.
            I've first grown with H3AD's formula in smart pots coco+perlite (6/9+Cal/Mag+Grotek+ pinch of Epsom and Recharge every week, then from Week 4 of Flowering only Bloom 9ML+ P-K 13-14 at 4ML/gal = great results no deficiencies, 1,4gr/Watt)
            Then i tried Hempy Buckets (coco+perlite), with 6-9 and P-K from week 3 to 7 and Overdrive on week 8 and half of Week 9 on a 10 weeks schedule = great results too, some tiny brown spots and signs of white tips but nothing relevant, 1,37 gr/Watt.
            I'll try 5 to 7 gr of Maxibloom only (with silicate, Epsom and Cal/Mag, and the fantastic "Recharge" once a week) in smart pots coco+perlite (automated watering, with frequent waterings asap and low EC around 800-900ppm at max), how should i use PK and Overdrive if i felt like it was needed?
            Should i step back from 7gr to 5gr of MB and add 2 to 4 ML of PK or Overdrive?
            Has anyone had good results recently adding a booster to the KISS method in coco? something else than P-K and Overdrive?

            Comment


              Hopla i would not recommend a bloom booster with straight MB even in coco as it has more than enough P. infact i do the 1:2 MG:MB recipe to week 3 or so then straight MB. my situation could easily be very different from yours though…

              since you like 6:9 and it’s a modified lucas, the 1:2 ratio is actually the closest to lucas with maxi series (plus some N). then going plain MB is tantamount to a booster. easy peasy.
              Last edited by Mudraya; 08-20-2021, 05:28.
              Asato Ma Sat Gamaya
              Tamaso Ma Jyotir Gamaya
              Mrityor Ma Amritam Gamaya
              Om Shanti Shanti Shanti

              Biophotons= cellular communication. Increase your awareness through living food.

              Comment


                Thanks Mudraya!
                i’ll look for the 1:2 MG:MB even if I was going to try MB from start to finish.
                I’m just thinking some plan B (and C) in case I wouldn’t be happy with the KISS method.
                I really love H3ad’s formula, so easy to master and tweak, if I do something wrong with MB I will fall back on 6/9

                Comment


                  Originally posted by hopla View Post
                  Thanks Mudraya!
                  i’ll look for the 1:2 MG:MB even if I was going to try MB from start to finish.
                  I’m just thinking some plan B (and C) in case I wouldn’t be happy with the KISS method.
                  I really love H3ad’s formula, so easy to master and tweak, if I do something wrong with MB I will fall back on 6/9
                  nothin wrong with that…if it works for you. if you buy the liquid in bulk (like 5 gallons) the price diff is negligible anyways. my biggest beef with the powders is how slow they mix when doing multiple mixes it can be a PITA.

                  fyi what inspired me to try the 1:2 was a post (on this thread?) from mopho, back in 2016.
                  Asato Ma Sat Gamaya
                  Tamaso Ma Jyotir Gamaya
                  Mrityor Ma Amritam Gamaya
                  Om Shanti Shanti Shanti

                  Biophotons= cellular communication. Increase your awareness through living food.

                  Comment


                    Yes i know about the powder necessitating a little process to fully dissolve (i read that it was easier with dechlorinated hot water and some shaking).
                    As for now i'll have to start with the 6-9 formula as an online seller took my order but Maxbloom will not be available before December, for my first run with MB i'll end up using it only for flowering i guess.
                    I read that mopho post too,
                    https://www.icmag.com/forum/marijuan...6#post10391976
                    for now i have Head's formula for plan A, the trio GHE for plan B and "soon" the MB for flowering (will buy Maxigrow next year to test that 2:1 ratio too)
                    Thanks again man

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by Douglas.Curtis View Post
                      I prefer DWC, which is a Roots-In type hydro (roots are constantly IN the solution). Your desired pH changes a little in Roots-Out hydro, due to the slight pH swing as the media dries out between waterings.


                      Magnesium is the element with the greatest differences in demand for cannabis. I generally start with .5g/gallon of a quality epsom salt. (Not the hydrate versions, magnesium sulfate) When the plants have a full pH swing often enough, not enough mag will show up as the standard yellowing on the leaves between the veins. Add a bit more epsom. You should be able to chop your plant at any time during flower (no flush), dry it out and NOT get sparking or crackling.


                      When you start with r/o water and add Maxibloom, the pH drops to around 4'ish. Add pH up in Roots-In systems until you reach 5.4. Roots-Out systems you want around 5.6. As your plants remove the nutrients, they're removing the natural pH down they are and the pH will slowly rise as the days pass. It should reach 5.8-6.0 within 7 days at the start of flowering. Too slow means you have too many gallons of nutrient for your plants/light-wattage. Too quick means you have too few gallons of nute mix.


                      750ppm is about maximum for me and the genetics I've run in the past. Read your plants by color, they should look close to what my photo shows. Darker green and you'll be destroying quality, lighter green and you run the risk of deficiencies. I try to grow as light as possible without deficiencies. Less really is 'more' with cannabis.


                      Glad to help. Reservoir management is one of the most often overlooked parts of "hydroponics" and it makes all the difference in the world.
                      I am in hydroton ebb flow and ph rises pretty much every 24hrs from 5.9-6.3. I will try to lower it to 5.6 and see if that helps keep it down. Takes a lot of GH ph down. ~25g res...

                      How does the floralicious affect the plants?

                      Thanks Man
                      LT
                      LostTribe

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