Why can't I germinate a seed?

[TychoMonolyth]

I would only change one thing good buddy. The baggie is not sealed, even seeds need oxygen and, it allows the "extra heat" generated in the sauna a place to escape

Actually, I use these. I picked up a bag of 50 at costco last year.

On that note, I totally forgot about these last week. lol

 

[Switcher56]

LOL. You sure their peckers are long enough good buddy?

PS: I have only read unsealed...

 

[yesum]

On the heating pad I think I cooked a few seeds. I have that pad in storage now. I use a router and place a pie pan with seeds on top. Never gets too hot. Tomato seed water is a route I have yet to explore, soak the seeds save the water and use to germ your pot seed. I want to stay away from chemicals but do a brief soak in hydrogen peroxide first to kill germs. I have seen no results from any method except maybe cracking the seeds. Even that seems iffy.

 

[GMT]

Gosh, don't you all make it hard. Throw seeds into dirt, throw dirt onto seeds. Water. Place container in window. Wait.

 

[CosmicGiggle]

Gosh, don't you all make it hard. Throw seeds into dirt, throw dirt onto seeds. Water. Place container in window. Wait.

I can't count the number of top of the line seeds I've murdered over the past 20+ years of growing due to making things too complicated.

........... worst offender, drowning due to too much water

............... second worst, roasting due to water and sitting on the heating pad

..................... third place, infecting, not washing my grubby paws before handling the seeds/seedlings (each time) and as yesum said "do a brief soak in hydrogen peroxide first to kill germs"
there's nothing more discouraging than getting the seedling going with a nice white tail and then seeing the tip turn brown - game over.

edit to add: one thing I can count on to get seeds to crack easily is filing down the pointed tip of the seed and as much of the seam as possible, then the quick peroxide bath.

This works well with sativa/haze seeds which can take longer to open so don't give up!

 

[Trollhunturd]

I tend to order seeds during winter months and pop them during summer months.

 

[wvkindbud38]

It's a simple process, there's several ways. You can soak them about 12hrs then get a damp paper towel and fold it over, put them in a plate and cover the top. You would benefit keeping them kinda warm and not let them get very cold while germination. I've got a piece of sand paper rolled up like a tube I'll put some seeds I know that's harder to germ in and shake them around to kinda scuff them a little. You might also need to use a heat pad while it's cold to keep them a bit warm. I'll also use liquid seaweed about 1/4 strength to wet my paper towels that helps alot. If there not germing, the seeds are either bad/old or your letting them get to wet. You don't have to soak them you can just go straight to damp paper towel might work better in case your letting them get to wet. Sometimes it takes 48hrs+ you just gotta be patient and don't let them laying in paper towels that's super wet. Just kinda keep them damp in a dark warmer area and if using a heat pad make sure they don't let your paper towels dry out. You should practice with some bag seeds before you use ones you've purchased. Good luck it's not as complicated as it sounds. Just don't over do it with the water or they rot, and keep them warm in a dark area and you'll be fine. I use all these methods I've described with nearly 99% germing. Usually there old if I can't get them germed

You should store your seeds in a lock tight container, there easy to find at Wal-Mart pretty cheap and keep in your fridge to keep them fresh longer. That way when you go to germinate them they'll be fresh and shouldn't give you any problems. Just keep them around 40 degrees F and don't freeze them.

 

[Hammerhead]

The biggest prob I see by far is too many won't step in to help. Waiting to see what happens is a death sentence. Not all seeds will be easy to pop. I've saved hundreds by stepping in before it was too late. The best thing any can do is to crack the shell yourself after 36hrs of whatever method your using.. The longer you wait the less likely you will get them to pop.

 

[Cloneman]

The biggest prob I see by far is too many won't step in to help. Waiting to see what happens is a death sentence. Not all seeds will be easy to pop. I've saved hundreds by stepping in before it was too late. The best thing any can do is to crack the shell yourself after 36hrs of whatever method your using.. The longer you wait the less likely you will get them to pop.

Well said, that is exactly what i do. I don't want to wait 5/7 days for the hard shelled seeds to pop, with a chance they have gone moldy.
After 36/48 hours I crack them by biting them, been doing this for years and for me personally its a safer way of doing it as apposed to tools or finger nails (big clumsy hands).
I'm a biter, a seed biter!

 

[BobChronic6505]

Boys does anyone have any thoughts or comments about damping off??? I mf hate gd damping off. Got some expensive seeds, they germinated, they sprouted, and within a day that stem shriveled up and that's all she wrote. I hate popping seeds so bad man I can just hear money going down the drain everytime I try to start something new. I can only assume my soil was too wet. Anyone have comments or thots or thoughts on damping off

 

[aliceklar]

Boys does anyone have any thoughts or comments about damping off??? I mf hate gd damping off. Got some expensive seeds, they germinated, they sprouted, and within a day that stem shriveled up and that's all she wrote. I hate popping seeds so bad man I can just hear money going down the drain everytime I try to start something new. I can only assume my soil was too wet. Anyone have comments or thots or thoughts on damping off

If your medium is too wet and your environment too humid you are more likely to get damping off. Maybe you are watering the babies too much (they shouldnt need any watering until they are actively growing and putting on leaves) or maybe you need better ventilation? A little hydrogen peroxide in the water when you sow the seeds can help too. Using 50% perlite in your seedling mix helps with drainage.

Generally, I've tried both direct into medium, and in damp paper towels, and dont think I'll be bothering with paper towels any more unless I'm doing germ tests. I've killed some valuable seeds before by cackhanded transplanting that damaged the root. Worst germination failures I've had have been where the medium was too cold - they seem to germ happiest between 25-28C. Most recent batch I did I got 30/30 germ rate using a 50/50 coco/perlite mix, sown directly to "1st knuckle depth" in small pots, kept at 28c on a top shelf in my grow space out of direct light & covered until they broke surface. I pre-soaked the medium with .5ml of maxicrop, .5ml calmag /litre, and a little hydrogen peroxide.

 

[BobChronic6505]

aliceklar I like getting them started in a paper towel bc I can see that they were living before I transplant. Idk what it is but I always fail when it comes to expensive seeds or seeds that I rly rly want to pop.

 

[44:86N]

Damp-Off is present when your plants flop over and die. Or make weak, sprawling, stems that don’t support the cotyledons, sprout but don’t make roots, have off colored leaves (often mistaken for a deficiency), or fail to sprout at all.

Damp-Off is a catch-all term for several different soil and water born-diseases, as the symptoms in seedlings are similar, though Pythium is most often the culprit, followed by Phytophthora sp. (crown rots) and Fusarium.

Pythium sp. and Phytophthora sp. are classified as water molds, or oomycetes, and are introduced by dirty hands, contaminated tools, including hose ends, by the water itself (passing through lines contaminated with biofilms and algae, mostly an issue with well, irrigation pond or collected rain water), or using contaminated soils. There are also air-born species of Phytophera.

Fusarium is a filamentous fungi and is introduced via water splashes off other infected plants/items, on the feet of fungus gnats, or also just blown in on the wind.

Fusarium, Pythium, Phytopthera, and the other pathogens responsible for damp-off, all thrive in overly wet conditions combined with improper temperatures.

Preventive practices (in addition to clean-up) include using new soil, formulated for germination. Reused, compost, or garden soil can be pasteurized at 180F/83C for 30 minutes, but really is not recommended.

Maintain even soil moisture and temperatures of 70F/21C to 74F/23C.

Temps below 68F/19C prior to germination and above 77F/25C after germination FAVOR disease development.

Proper light intensity is critical, too low promotes disease development (and poor plant growth).

Wait to feed until the first true set of leaved appear, and then very lightly.

As mentioned above, the addition of H2O2 helps with control/prevention of water molds -- generally 30 ml per gallon of distilled water. I have used the Biosafe Products Zerotol and Sanidate 5.0 for over a decade on my propagation benches for all my plants in the commercial greenhouse. You can cause phytotoxic damage if you use too much per application.

I have also begun to use Mono- and dibasic sodium, potassium, and ammonium phosphites ("Phostrol," "Reliant," ect.) at the seedling stage with success as a drench, though, once again, this product causes phytotoxic damage if too much is used per application, or if it is applied too frequently (not following recommended guidelines). I have not done soil applications prior to seed sowing, but "Reliant" has guidelines for this on their label, and intend to do trials this winter.

After the first set of true leaves appear, I will then use a Polyoxin D Zinc Salt, the product is "Affirm," also by Nufarm, and also as a drench. Zinc is a very effective broad spectrum fungicide that hits everything listed above and more.

One to two weeks after a zinc application I will then go to a fungicide whose mode of action is classified as Group 11. The are several, but not all are labeled for use on edibles. Mural an Azxoystrobin product, and Pageant which is a Boscalid and Pyraclostrobin product, are both effective and long lasting broad spectrum fungicides that are gentle on seedling, though I do prefer azxoystrobin, and find that it is more effective. It is also 3 times as expensive as a boscalid product.

(Everything above is listed for use on edibles)

It is important to NEVER use the same "Group" of fungicides consecutively, or multiple times in a row --- this is the perfect recipe for building RESISTANCE in pathogens and why I listed and use multiple products in my operation. Pest and disease resistance is a real thing, and is caused by the misuse of chemicals.

As far as I am concerned, the best practices to avoid damp-off are using a professional grade germination mix and clean water. When in doubt about your water source, use distilled. I hope all that helps.

Good Luck & Happy Growing!

Postscript: I gave up pre-popping my seeds in damp paper towels a long time ago, and now just insert them, root-tip end up, into the soil. I've had seeds pop over a 2 week window, from the same batch. Some are just reluctant.

 

[kalopatchkid]

Boys does anyone have any thoughts or comments about damping off??? I mf hate gd damping off. Got some expensive seeds, they germinated, they sprouted, and within a day that stem shriveled up and that's all she wrote. I hate popping seeds so bad man I can just hear money going down the drain everytime I try to start something new. I can only assume my soil was too wet. Anyone have comments or thots or thoughts on damping off

I like to put a tiny bit of hydrogen peroxide (Drugstore kind) in with water during the initial seed soak to kill any pathogens. I usually let the seeds float on the water overnight and if they are freshly made, they usually split and some even grow little tails within 12 hours. Then I transfer to the paper towel method, just my personal preference. I also prefer to transfer the sprouted seeds into an inert medium, like promix, so theres not alot of organic matter or bacteria present.

Like hammerhead mentioned, anything that doesnt show activity within 36 hours I will manually crack the seed shell. Some seeds got really tough shell even after a good soaking, and they just need a little help breaking through. Often times, the seeds will grow tails within a few hours of being cracked. It's a little scary to crack seeds yourself at first, but once you get the feel for it, its a piece of cake. The longer the seed sits in a damp paper towel or other medium without drying out the more harmful bacteria becomes more of a threat.

 

[BobChronic6505]

I like to put a tiny bit of hydrogen peroxide (Drugstore kind) in with water during the initial seed soak to kill any pathogens. I usually let the seeds float on the water overnight and if they are freshly made, they usually split and some even grow little tails within 12 hours. Then I transfer to the paper towel method, just my personal preference. I also prefer to transfer the sprouted seeds into an inert medium, like promix, so theres not alot of organic matter or bacteria present.

Like hammerhead mentioned, anything that doesnt show activity within 36 hours I will manually crack the seed shell. Some seeds got really tough shell even after a good soaking, and they just need a little help breaking through. Often times, the seeds will grow tails within a few hours of being cracked. It's a little scary to crack seeds yourself at first, but once you get the feel for it, its a piece of cake. The longer the seed sits in a damp paper towel or other medium without drying out the more harmful bacteria becomes more of a threat.

What happens to me more often than not, is the seed will germinate in paper towel, but when it is transplanted to the soil, that's where I have problems.

 

[aliceklar]

What happens to me more often than not, is the seed will germinate in paper towel, but when it is transplanted to the soil, that's where I have problems.

It sounds like your transplanting is damaging the seeds with their delicate sprouts. Its very easy to get them upside down (root up) or break/damage the root whilst handling. Either of those can wreck a seedling. Things you might consider:

1) Just plant unpopped seeds straight into medium (jiffy, rockwool plug, coco/perlite or low-nute well draining seedling compost of some kind).
2) If you absolutely must use the paper towel method, try transplanting them the moment they show a sprout - dont wait for a long tail
3) If your medium for transplanting isnt sterile, then either pasteurise your mix by briefly blitzing it in a microwave (and cooling it), and/or add a little hydrogen peroxide to the water.
4) Dont drench the medium - let it dry a bit as the seeds emerge. Seeds in wet medium are more prone to rot. They shouldnt need any extra water until they have a few leaves showing and are actively growing/drinking.
5) Dont let the temp drop below 25C (or go above 30C)

If you can, I recommend you get some expendable bagseed and have a play with different methods - see what works best for you. good luck!

 

[GoatCheese]

Boys does anyone have any thoughts or comments about damping off??? I mf hate gd damping off. Got some expensive seeds, they germinated, they sprouted, and within a day that stem shriveled up and that's all she wrote. I hate popping seeds so bad man I can just hear money going down the drain everytime I try to start something new. I can only assume my soil was too wet. Anyone have comments or thots or thoughts on damping off

Check out my post on page 2, you may find it helpful:
https://www.icmag.com/forum/marijuan...0#post17944770

Use fairly small amount of potting soil in a small cup/pot at first; it will dry out faster than a larger amount of soil and so it will prevent damping off. Moisten the small amount of soil with a sprayer but don’t make the soil dripping wet.
Use a sprayer to moisten the soil till you’re sure you got the seedling going well enough, before you actually pour water in the starting cup/container, cause it’s easier to over water them this way.

 

[kalopatchkid]

What happens to me more often than not, is the seed will germinate in paper towel, but when it is transplanted to the soil, that's where I have problems.

Usually that is caused by planting in too large of a container or using too much water. Sprouts dont consume alot of water, so if you plant in too big a container it stays wet too long and starts growing bad microbes that will attack your seedling. The soil should feel moist, but if you squeeze a handful in your fist no drops of water should come out.

 

[44:86N]

I will third what kalopatchkid and GoatCheese said. Looked at GoatCheese's pics, and yeah, that's kind of as large as I would go.

Generally, I like to use something like a 50 count sized plug tray, even cutting it up into smaller strips when sowing small batches. Aside from what was said by these folks above, you get to pot them up a little sooner, as they will fill out the smaller containers faster. Stepping up pot size at the right time to the correct next size helps to develop a good, strong plant quickly.

This past spring, I did a number of seeds for a local commercial medical operation, who had just received their license, in those bedding plant flats, 32 cells per flat, 4 cells per pack. Probable like 2" by 2" (5cm x 5cm), and I think that was too big. I'd rather do a 1" x 1" (2.5cm x 2.5cm), and pot them up a little sooner.

 

[44:86N]

The seeds above, stuck directly into Berger's Germination Mix, germinated over a 10 day window, with the majority showing within 72 hours. Then, it seemed like days 7 and 10 both saw some plants popping above the soil line. Above is mostly Northern Hash Plant, though there's a number of strains there. Not my seed stock, and it was busy, so I didn't pay that much attention.

I've seen the 10 day spread, a lot, and noticed that it's often smaller plants that show late. Maybe recessive? I've never tracked how those plants turn out in terms of sex, though in a lot of strains (I'd assume Hash Plant is one), the smaller seedlings tend to be the females, but not always.

Peace & Happy Growing!