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AK-47 & HDF Side By Side Bio-Bucket Style!!!

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    #16
    BIO Buckets

    Pulled up chair reclined Ill be right back, okay got a Blue Moon, Now Im ready.. Giddy Up...

    Go BT
    :pimp3: :pimp3: :pimp3: :pimp3:

    MY BONG IS BIGGER THAN YOURS

    Comment


      #17
      samonz, – how’s it going bro, I have some skunk#1’s but I’ll have to wait a little wail before I can get them going though, but man O man do I love the skunk grows!! any ways this should an awesome grow and some what interesting for sure.

      sunnyside, – I will sex them in the system.

      Bucket Boy – you have a reclining chair!!!! I’m jealous!!! Also jealous over the Blue Moon Rocks.

      BigTokes: "How-To" Of The Bio-Buckets 101
      BigTokes: Hard-Core Bio-Buckets, First Big Run!!
      BigTokes: Secound Big Run!!
      BigTokes: AK-47 Plus H.D.F Bio-Bucket Style
      BigTokes: "How-To" Of The Bio-Buckets 101
      BigTokes: AK-47 Plus H.D.F Bio-Bucket Style

      Comment


        #18
        BT,
        I'm watching this grow. I am interested with the AK grow. I just germed some BM seeds for my next gow. grinning.

        Avid

        Comment


          #19
          Blue Moon

          Wish I had some Blue Moon Rocks
          I have some ultimate moonshine seeds not started dammit
          Blue Moon Beverage... Maybe Ill get the Ultimates germing tonight.
          Since Im already on the recliner it would be easier watching you grow them ha ha.. Keep it up... I love your threads.. I've read less in books in the last year than I have read recently in your threads...
          Getting another beer.
          :pimp3: :pimp3: :pimp3: :pimp3:

          MY BONG IS BIGGER THAN YOURS

          Comment


            #20
            Avid Lerner, – yea the AK-47’s should turn out great, I’ll be placing 18-clones of them in one side of the system not for sure what to except as far as mail/female ratio goes but we’ll see?

            Bucket Boy, – woops!! I thought Blue Moon Rocks, anyways if you keep up with every thing that I’m writing that’s a lot of reading!!

            BigTokes: "How-To" Of The Bio-Buckets 101
            BigTokes: Hard-Core Bio-Buckets, First Big Run!!
            BigTokes: Secound Big Run!!
            BigTokes: AK-47 Plus H.D.F Bio-Bucket Style
            BigTokes: "How-To" Of The Bio-Buckets 101
            BigTokes: AK-47 Plus H.D.F Bio-Bucket Style

            Comment


              #21
              Big (Teacher) Sorry Meant Toke!!!

              VEG AND MOMS Dont recall...
              I don't recall reading through your Bio Bucket (Basically one hell of a book thread) If you have plans to crank it up and go that route or are you content with harvesting and then restarting all over? Let me know and sorry if I missed it. If I did Ill take me lashes.
              :pimp3: :pimp3: :pimp3: :pimp3:

              MY BONG IS BIGGER THAN YOURS

              Comment


                #22
                Yes I’ll be keeping moms…….veg time will probable be four weeks…….as soon as I’m finished with a harvest I have clones to go right back in, I like to do back-to-back grows throughout the year.

                BigTokes: "How-To" Of The Bio-Buckets 101
                BigTokes: Hard-Core Bio-Buckets, First Big Run!!
                BigTokes: Secound Big Run!!
                BigTokes: AK-47 Plus H.D.F Bio-Bucket Style
                BigTokes: "How-To" Of The Bio-Buckets 101
                BigTokes: AK-47 Plus H.D.F Bio-Bucket Style

                Comment


                  #23
                  Big Toke:

                  I used to read all the post over at OG about the BIO Buckets. Im a soil grower but like the simplcity of this system. Due to the disposal of soil I am starting to think about hydro.. I'll be looking at this one daily keep us updated please :-)


                  "You people spending the night cause this party is just starting.." JB 7/4/01

                  Comment


                    #24
                    real quick question how much would it cost me to build a 4 bucket set up?
                    peace

                    sack

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Just a guess, everything approximate:
                      Item _ Cost (in $US)
                      600w HPS with 4" fan and fittings _ $300
                      4 five gallon buckets w/lid _ $20
                      1 30 gallon+ reservoir _ $10
                      1 bag landscaping lava rock _ $5
                      4 6" net pots _ $5
                      misc tubing, fittings, etc. _ $30
                      1 200gph + water pump _ $60
                      1 15amp timer _ $15
                      1 glue gun and glue sticks _ $20
                      1 Skilter filter 250 (optional) _ $35
                      1 6" Inline fan _ $200
                      1 6" carbon scrubber _ $250
                      6" ducting _ $30
                      4" ducting (for light) _ $20

                      TOTAL _ $1000

                      Please don't let the total figure scare you. This seems like a lot, but if you are going to put out the cash, you might as well do it right. After all, $1000 is just 2.5 ounces of decent weed. This setup will pay for itself in the first grow. I have left out a lot: nutrients, paint, duct tape, meters, etc. Bottom line, growing marijuana is illegal and not cheap. If you skimp on something, say odor control for example, you may find that your freedom is worth much more than the cost of a carbon scrubber.

                      If I may make a suggestion... for about $200 more (the cost of a 1000w light, larger pump, and bigger fan) you can have six plants and should expect to pull 3 to 6 ounces per plant depending on strain in bio-buckets. If flower room size is your restriction, then nevermind.

                      I love bio-buckets, but I must confess that I have not done hydro using any other system, so I am not one to judge this system against any other. I like bio-buckets for the ease of maintenance. I visit my grow op once a week for about one hour on average. I recently went as long as three weeks between visits with very little ill effects.

                      Other things to consider:
                      The average household circuit is set up for 15 Amps. If you run a 600w light, fan, pump, etc. on one circuit, you will be ok IF YOU RUN NOTHING ELSE ON THAT CIRCUIT. If you use a 1kw light, I would suggest running that on one circuit and putting everything else on another circuit.

                      A 600w light puts out a lot of heat, a 1kw light even more. You must vent the light seperately from the room. I keep my ambient temps outside of the flower room at 67 degrees F. My 1000w light is vented seperately from my flower room. Both the light and flower room intake and exhaust into the same master bedroom. With temps at 67 in the master bedroom, temps inside the grow room reach 77 degrees during lights on. If you live in the house you are growing in and are unwilling to maintain 67 degrees throughout the house, you may need to consider seperate cooling for the room you are putting your flower room in. Portable AC units that vent to the outside or window AC units are ideal for this.

                      If all of this is way too much money for your taste... consider doing a cabinet grow using a 250w light. Heat problems are very much reduced, smaller fans are needed, but I would not recommend any more than three plants.

                      If you have any further questions, please feel free to ask. Good luck.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        nTstevenson: hey there,, it's only illeagle for most of you,,, but not in the right state's! The Fed's can still mess with ya, but if you keep it close to what you're prescribed you'll be fine! My Dr told us that they(the dr's) have a LOT more pull now then even 1 yr ago. They can override what county laws say you can have it they deem it nessesary I heard some local ppl's here got busted ,they had scripts only they had about 5 over what they were suppossed to have( two of those being outdoor and could Easily bee seen over the roof of the house, and the fence from one side, they took those two- i wonder why, and a couple from inside) and the cops took all those but 1 (left him with 1 over ). But he didn't get in trouble for having them But my county is gettin more lienient with Prop215 ppl. I'll be watchin this grow Bucket Boy! Good Luck and Good Health to ya!
                        ~Wikid :Gotta Luv Nor Cal
                        ~Wikid
                        My First Hydro
                        Grow it now & forever
                        :woohoo: HELL YEAH I :smoweed:

                        Comment


                          #27
                          JohnBell – yea I used to hang with OG they’ve went all anti-Bio-Buckets on me and every thing so I don’t hang there that often any more, but I glad you like my thread over here at IC, when and if the time comes that you want to go Bio-Hydro let me know and I’ll see about hooking you up.

                          sackoweed – I really don’t remember, it was over a year ago and I’m sure that some thing have went up and some went down, so again I really couldn’t till ya………I don’t really get into that aspect of the Bio-Buckets as to every one lives in different places, but good luck to ya.

                          BigTokes: "How-To" Of The Bio-Buckets 101
                          BigTokes: Hard-Core Bio-Buckets, First Big Run!!
                          BigTokes: Secound Big Run!!
                          BigTokes: AK-47 Plus H.D.F Bio-Bucket Style
                          BigTokes: "How-To" Of The Bio-Buckets 101
                          BigTokes: AK-47 Plus H.D.F Bio-Bucket Style

                          Comment


                            #28
                            BigToke, my bio-bucket god, I have another question for you. For the last few months I have been having pH problems. Not the normal hydro pH problems of pH floating too high, but actually they dive dramatically. I have no pictures to offer, because I haven't quite gotten over the awful feeling I have while posting on sites such as these. Call me paranoid, I plead guilty.

                            First some background: I run six 5 gallon buckets with 6" net pots filled with lava rock in a 4'x6'x7' high flower room with 1kW of light. I have approximately 15 gallons in my reservoir with a skilter filter 250 and six inches of drop for waterfall effect. I am running "farmer john" style, with 350gph pump and 1/2" feed line with 1 1/4" return feeding into 2" pvc. My feed line is seperate from the return line. The return to my res has numerous 1/16" holes drilled into the bottom allowing for numerous small streams of solution falling 6" back into the res for an increased waterfall effect. I don't have a DO meter, but I highly doubt that DO is a problem. I have been running my reservoir for about eight months now without a change. I use GH Flora series nutes according to the Lucas formula (0-5-10 in veg, 0-8-16 in flower). I use RO water to automatically top off my reservoirs and add GH nutes weekly to obtain my desired ppm level. Tap water is out of the question as I use well water that is 350 ppm at the faucet. After coming out of my RO unit it is at 5ppm and 6.8 pH. (By the way, why is my RO water 6.8 pH? Could this be the source of my problems?)

                            I am currently almost finished flowering NL5xHaze, a 65-75 day flowering strain according to Sensi. About 45 days ago I noticed yellow spots developing on old growth fan leaves while in flower. I originally diagnosed this as a Mag def., but I am relatively new to hydro, so I wasn't sure. I added horticultural epsom salts purchased from Home Depot with no observable effect. I then purchased a pH meter and discovered my pH was around 4.2 . I brought pH back up to 5.7 and have had to continue to add pH up ever since. However, this seems to have solved my immediate problem of nutrient lockout and spotting of fan leaves. The fan leaves that were damaged have not died, they are just spotted now.

                            Since I narrowed my problems to pH drop, I first thought that it had something to do with my setup. I used machine screws and nuts and 1" L brackets to attach my net pots to the underside of my bucket lids. I noticed that these were rusting, so I figured maybe this was causing pH drop. I removed the hardware from the netpots in my mother room (two buckets, otherwise same setup, but in an entirely different reservoir) and cut larger holes in the lid to allow the netpots to rest in the lid. I removed all metal from the system, but still noticed gradual pH drop. I have yet to diagnose the overall problem.

                            Recently, I read a thread by DeltaNugz at CW that seems to describe my problem. He also used Lucas formula in RO water, but he added back 33% strength nutrient solution from a seperate tank rather than straight RO water. He found that increasing N amounts in his nutrient solution solved his pH problem. He hypothesized that this was due to beneficial bacteria eating up some of the N that was in the nutrient solution, the abscence of which threw off the Lucas formula and dropped pH levels. I have not yet tried this, as my plants are so near finishing, I will just continue to add 15ml of pH up every week until they are done (which will probably be one week from now). But my question is do you have, or have you heard, any experience with falling pH levels in bio-buckets. I have noticed that you change your reservoir after every grow, and I will do this after my current grow has finished, but from what I have heard, Hurtback said that bio-buckets would be relatively stable in the pH department. Are my problems due to using RO water, or should I consider using a more nitrogen rich nutrient formula. If N is the answer, could you suggest something other than just increasing GH Flora micro?

                            I realize I am probably over-stressing, reservoir change out after every grow will probably fix the problem, but the fact that DeltaNugz also had the problem with almost the exact same reservoir maintenance program I have has got me wondering. Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated, as there a far too few bio-bucket specialists out there.

                            Thanks in advance.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              BigToke -


                              I cant wait to see HDF in your biobucket madness, its a strain i've been wanting to see grown out for a while now to see if it really is heavy duty, and if it is then purchasing...


                              I'm sure that in your bio-bucket wonderland these plants will thrive!

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Basic Water Chemistry!!

                                Hay ntstephenson, sorry to here about your (pH) problems I will offer up any thing that I can in order to help a bro out, after all were all just trying to grow the best weed that I can, you don’t need to proved me a picture any more than you need to take my advice, let that sink in a little bit!!! I think some folks are making a mountain out of a mole hill, I only ask folks to proved a picture when they want me to do a step-by-step with them, so your in no danger!!! As far as I can tell all your wanting is advice, and that’s way were all here, right?

                                Ok well now that that’s out of the way let’s get started!!

                                Here’s what I see wrong with this. You have a 15-gallon reservoir!!! for 6-bio-buckets? And a 350gph pump!!! WOW talk about your over kill, with that big of pump you could be running 24 to 28 bucket no problem!!! Of course this return thing I am having a little trouble trying to figure that out……..but off the top of my head, I wouldn’t think that the (DO) is your problem any way, as (DO) has no direct relationship with your (pH)……however your (pH) is in direct relationship with your (GH) and (KH)…….therefore if your having (pH) problems you should be looking into your (GH) and (KH), as they are responsible for the buffering abilities of your water, on top of the nutrients that your using. All pure water has a (pH) of 7.0 neutral and as far as the ppm’s go, that is decided mostly by how much calcium and magnesium that is in you water? I’m going to jump way down and pick up were you said Hurback said something
                                Hurtback said that bio-buckets would be relatively stable in the (pH) department. Are my problems due to using RO water,
                                I would say a whole lot on this, but I’m sure what I am going to say we’ll cause a little light go being!! Hurtback I do believe was geographically located in a place that had soft water (guessing)?…..thus the use of Vitialink Nutrients or something like that, anyways they are one of the few nutrient companies that specializes in soft-water-nutrients……..thus very stable (pH) that he had, he did not express this in non of his writings, but I’m almost 100% sure that that was the reason for his success on the (pH) end of the system.

                                Now on the other hand let’s speak for a moment about what I feel that is mostly every ones problems with (pH), as I have said before every hydroponics system wither it is store bought or (DIY) must be built around two things!!
                                • (water efficiency) the supply, demand, and runoff thereof.
                                • utilization of (Dissolved Oxygen). This is, supply, exchange, and replenish.

                                if you have built or bought your system around these principles, then your next step would be (water analysis), simply put this means (Head or Soft Water?) The main difference between (Hard and Soft water) is hard water contains much more dissolved minerals – calcium and magnesium, for example – than soft water does.

                                Now that you’ve determined that your water type let’s say is (Hard). Hard water forms when naturally occurring minerals enter water sources. Over time, these minerals are absorbed by groundwater. The two most common types of minerals found in hard water are calcium and magnesium compounds. The term "hard water" was originally coined to refer to water that was difficult to work with. Hard water requires much more soap, shampoo or detergent than soft water, so your soap products don't stretch nearly as far. The effects of hard water are felt most often in daily household activities such as cleaning. The minerals present in hard water inhibit soap's lathering and cleaning capabilities.

                                All that means is, your water has a certain amount of (calcium and magnesium) in the water, now the way you determine this is by the ppm’s, they tell you how much (GH) are in the water, btw I think most of us already know this but I will say it again, your ppm meter is mostly reading the (GH) of your hydro-systems solution, the reason for this is that calcium and magnesium are the two larger atoms in your water/solution and therefore the most conductive mineral/element of all. According to the U.S. Geological Survey, more than 85 percent of the United States geography has hard water. I have noticed that a lot of growers use water softeners. Water filtration systems come in many forms. I will discuses this later on.
                                Water Photo


                                The next step would be for you is to understand what that means to you as a hydroponics grower in a long term recirculating system such as the Bio-Buckets. Hard water is characterized by high levels of Bicarbonates and it makes itself known in the form of calcium and magnesium. Hard water will usually have a high pH but not necessarily, this will depend on the alkalinity of your water source, this is the reason I recommend using tap-water because it has been treated to have the most stable levels of alkalinity and by using any form of water filtration system you have there by destabilized your water alkalinity levels among other things, and thereby will not hold up under long term recalculating growing conditions, but on the other head great for drinking water but were not trying to produce good drinking water for your Bio-System, were trying to produce the best stabilized water possible and the alkalinity levels tell you what that is……..are we begging to see the light yet? Well if not, don’t worry were not done yet!!!

                                The obvious problem for the grower is that he will be adding quite large amounts of acid on a regular basis. If using Phosphoric acid this may lead to a build up of Phosphate in the reservoir over time. High levels of P in the solution can inhibit the uptake of other salts, Zinc for instance, and cause general nutrient imbalance.
                                1. The first and most obvious solution is to change-out or flush regularly. This will reduce the chances of Phosphate accumulation and ensure maintenance of a good nutrient profile. Frequency of changes-outs or flushes truly depend on the volume of water/nutrient reservoir size and number of plants. In very Hard water arias however a large amount of Phosphoric acid will be needed to correct (pH) when nutrient is first made up.
                                2. The Best Solution by far is to use a specific formulation which is usually based on more acidic components. Hard water General Hydroponics Flora Range was formulated in response to demand from growers in various areas of the United Kingdom such as London, Thames Valley and other arias with very hard water. It was formulated to correct the (pH) of alkaline water and minimize the amounts of Phosphoric Acid that are required to maintain it at correct levels. It also takes account of the other minerals to be found in Hard water use of this product will ensure the best possible results in Hard water areas.

                                ntstephenson – did you know that instead of buying an expensive R/O filtration systems that you could have simply bought nutrients that was formulated to meet you hard water needs? Expensive filtration system are made for people how are drinking there water, not growing in it (in most cases)!! With the exceptions of very polluted water conditions.
                                There is one thing you must remember when dealing with indoor grow/rooms. There is no such thing as a "house plant." Plants grown in interior spaces actually come from deferent regions of the world, and must adapt to less than ideal conditions in the home or grow/room. The gardener's challenge is to know the plant's environmental needs and meet them. The interaction of environmental factors and maintenance practices contribute to the health or decline of the plant.
                                Now let’s discuses (Soft Water). Any water that does not contain large concentrations of the dissolved minerals calcium or magnesium. This will alter both the (pH) and the electrical conductivity.

                                DID YOU KNOW….. the purer the water, the lower its salinity and the greater its resistance to the flow of electricity? Salinity is related to conductivity?
                                DID YOU KNOW….. Soft water does not occur naturally. It must be processed.

                                Soft water quality all depends on how the water was softened. If the softening was accomplished by an ion-exchange method it is a better process. However, if the water was softened using sodium (SALT), you do not want to use it on your plants imo. Unfortunately, most home water softeners use sodium as the softening agent. The sodium water softener replaces the calcium and magnesium (two nutritional components needed by plants) with the sodium which is toxic to plants in large quantities produced and in most cases that I’ve seen almost all growers that use soft water use it a high levels at 100% of there water to mix in with there nutrients, it would be a better idea if you mixed it like half and half, you know like half regular water (hard water) and your filtered water (soft water) that way it you would stand a better chance of balancing it out to more your plants liking. If you use bottled water on your plants, you need to find out if the water has been softened, and if so, what method was used, sodium or ion-exchange.

                                Now that you have determined what type of water your going to be using to grow in, it is time to order the appropriate nutrients to go with it. Now that you have your nutrients we well discuses what relation this three elements are going to play in the roll of your (pH) problems.
                                BigTokes: "How-To" Of The Bio-Buckets 101
                                BigTokes: AK-47 Plus H.D.F Bio-Bucket Style

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