ReikoX's Workshop Rebuild 2020

[ReikoX]

I've been debating between pulling through the veg room or having separate ventilation systems for each side. As it is, the workbench is going to be a very tight fit, and with a separate intake for each, the workbench would block the intake for flower. Thoughts or suggestions?


separate intake and exhaust for veg and flower (front)


separate intake and exhaust for veg and flower (back)


shared intake and exhaust for veg and flower (front)


shared intake and exhaust for veg and flower (back)

[q3corn]

What disadvantage do you see with having the air go from veg to flower to exhaust?

[ReikoX]

Pros:
On a small scale, it helps increase humidity in the flower room (I live in an arid climate), helps keep night time temps up, and uses fewer parts so it is cheaper.

Cons:
Not as much control over the veg room, potential for light leaks between rooms, and doesn't work when the flowering room door is open.

[hellfire]

Could you put an intake on the bottom of the door? Not ideal though

[ReikoX]

It was a good mail day!

[ReikoX]

Dispite my workshop being under construction, I kept my press accessible. Today I decided I would press some rosin for my brother's birthday.


About 45 minutes later, I have a nice pile of parchment to collect.


A variable cornucopia of flavors, consistencies, and yields.
]

[ReikoX]

So after some discussions, some thoughts, and some more modeling I think I am getting close to finished with the ventilation. I found some 12" x 24" darkroom louvers that I can put in the doors. I also decided to use separate fans for each side, I'm afraid I wont be able to control the environment otherwise. In this model I went with a Cloudline T8 for flower and a Cloudline T6 for veg. The size difference between the fans isn't that dramatic, thought the filters are a bit bigger.

[packerfan79]

Hey ReikoX,

I hope you don't mind if I ask a completely unrelated question.

If I remember correctly, you ran some mephisto autos under the leds. I have some that are 2 weeks under t-5s, about to go under some quantum boards. How strong do you think I should feed?

Thanks

[ReikoX]

I would feed them like you normally do your photos, I fed my autos about 1.6 EC. Remember when you first see pistils, they are still in a veggative state for another week or so, don't cut nitrogen until stretch is over.

[ReikoX]

Yesterday I went to the hardware store and got the lumber to frame the walls. I got treated lumber for the bottom against the concrete. I had to buy 12' pieces for the long wall because it was 124.5", just 4.5" short of a 10'.


First thing that I did was smoke a bowl. Then I got to work on my cut list. My grandpa always taught me to measure twice and cut once.


Once everything was cut, I begann assembly. This would have been a lot easier if I could have taken the two ends of the workbench out. I had to move them around to get all the nails in.


The top piece is 4.5" longer than the bottom because the cement sticks out. This required some juggling to lift the wall above it and nail the top piece on it. Finally got the wall up, it was a little tight in one spot, so I got a bigger hammer! I got it up and level. Then took out my tape measure and realized the bottom had moved! Pulled the nails and got it right the second time.

[ReikoX]

After some dinner, and another bowl, i busted out the cut list for the next wall. I love my miter saw, it made quick work of these cut lists at nice right angles. My grandpa used to cut 2x4s by hand.


I wanted to make sure I had something to nail the wall into, so i nailed a couple of 2x4s to the rafters.


This wall was much easier to build. I had a lot more room, and didn't have any doors to deal with. This time I checked my bottom measurements before securing the wall.


4' x 6' Flower Room


4' x 4' Mother and Clone Room

[ReikoX]

When I was putting up the walls, I had to remove the trim around the entrance door. When I removed the trim pieces, the door swung open. Apparently the latch was not connected to the door casing at all, one good bump with your shoulder and you would have been in the workshop. What I thought was going to be an easy project, ended up taking me three days. The first issue to deal with was the door frame. It's hard to see in this picture, but the door was framed with two studs and a top piece between them. When I measured the rough opening, it was an inch too narrow.


To frame the door properly, I needed to move the studs over. First I cut out the header with the sawzall, then I removed the trim and nails holding the paneling to the studs. After that I was able to get the studs out and move them over. Remember to always measure twice and cut once.


With the studs moved over, I was then able to build the door frame with the proper rough opening size. Once in place, the frame was nailed to the studs. The last thing to do was trim the leftover paneling and footer. I tried using the sawzall on the paneling and ripped it. I had much better luck using my jigsaw.


With the proper rough opening size, I was able to get the door shimmed in place and level. In retrospect, I would have cut the bottom of the frame so the door didn't have such a large clearance. Apparently this pre-hung door is pre-measured for carpet clearance.



Than's okay, I installed a threshold to make up the difference. I think it gives it a nice look, even if it may be a tripping hazard. The trim pieces were a bit smaller than the other door, so I trimmed them down, then used one of the interior scrap pieces for the top, which is now an inch wider. I filled all the nail holes with wood filler and sanded it. Now the threshold and the trim is all taped up and ready for paint.

[ReikoX]

While the trim pieces were drying, I decided to turn my attention to another project. The way they wired these rooms was quite interesting. The workshop light is on the same switch as the family room light, which is by the stairs to the basement. I turned off the breaker in that room so I could work on the light.


When I looked in the box, I could see a jumble of wire and tape, I'm sure it was totally to code.... One thing that bothered me, was this box was wired to the outlet that my workbench was using, turns out that plug was never grounded. So after cleaning up some wiring, I am ready to install my switch. I love wago connectors.


The old outlet wasn't run properly either, They ran the wire under the studs between the furring strips and the ceiling tiles. Nothing a drill and a paddle bit won't fix. Seriously, it took me about five minutes, why didn't they do this originally?



Wired in a basic switch and mounted it to the studs bu the door.


After double checking all of my connections, I turned back on the breaker. The light switch now works perfectly. It is on regardless of whether the family room light is on or not.

[ReikoX]

I wasn't too happy with the way the door latch plate was mounted. It wouldn't take a whole lot more than a good kick or two to bust it down.


To improve security I bought a security door latch plate. This latch has four holes with extra long screws that can be angled to attach to the studs. I also added a long screw into the studs at each of the three door hinges.


Finally, I painted the doors. I took an old can of paint that was used in the family room and got a color match done on it. It came out pretty close.


I liked the way it came out so much, I went ahead and did the bathroom door across the hall to match.

[zif]

This is such a fun thread! Thanks for throwing in the ‘side’ projects along the way - they’re the icing on the cake. =)