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Specs for the New Grow Room
- Thread starter Fixer
- Start date
great CFL technique, esp for stealth/micro closet growers
great CFL technique, esp for stealth/micro closet growers
it's all about light-bands or bandwidths-of-light. Light-bandwidths are the instructions that tell the plant what it needs to do. There are far more bands of light than just Blue or Red light that a plant can recognise. IMO, Light-bandwidths lean towards the Blue-spectrum or Red-spectrum, or they may be a mix of the two.
With CFL's It depends on the manufacturer to get the bandwidths right; hence people have problems with Blue-spectrum-light giving them too much veg (as I did), or Blue-spectrum-light causing flowering too early; which I now have, and I am trying to utilise as a concept. Some manufacturers aim their bandwidth towards flowering; hence even their Blue-light spectrum products, meant for vegging, promote flowering traits. It may relate to the amount of mercury-vapour in the tube, and the way this is manufactured. I was using a Maxibright 200w Blue-light for vegging when I came accross this anomaly. Then I added another Red-light tube to the setup, with a total of 400w output, when some of the flowering was a little unreliable, and then this went well.
I can now get plants into flower very early, from about 2 weeks from seed using a Maxibright 200w Blue-light CFL, which induces flowering on its own; plus I now add a little more Red-light (total 400w output) to fully promote flowering, as some plants in less well lit positions got left behind, and I had to reflower them with Red-light after they stopped flowering. This turns out to be quite a good technique, and as I can't stop the Maxibright 200w inducing flowering anyway. (Might stop flowering on 24 hours of light though). In fact, this pic shows a plant well gone into flower after 5 weeks. I forgot to take a pic at 2 weeks becuase it was just a few pistels, and I couldn't get a focus at the time.
Although the plants are small at this stage, they still tend to get a good build of bud by the end of the grow. I just grow more plants to make up for the shortfall. A good tip is to keep seedlings in one or two rows parallel to the CFL tube, as this helps keep plants the same height; then less tethering is needed, and plants can be kept closer to the light. This is a great idea for cfl growers who want to keep their plants small, and keep stealth nice and easy. Maxibright is my name, and almost immediate flowering on Blue-light 12/12 is my game. Well, almost completely in, and you may find bud production kind of drops out a bit as they gain maturity; simply add more Red-light, or indeed a Maxibright Dual-spectrum may suit your needs better. Not been able to try this yet. More for the pros. Heh.
Please note: plants flowered from seed have the same growth period length. Flowering will all but end at the end of the cycle. So this is not a good way to start a flowering cycle for growers going onto HID or High-pressure-sodium. Therefore, plants won't get any bigger, and will soon end their cycle. (IMO, and which you can see from photos).
This is the same plant at 10 weeks. So it was a few more weeks, and I had a good supply of chunky bud.
IMO, CFL's can be more optimal for everyday use, and where CFL's are cool, safe, stealthy and cheap to run; where HID is hot, dangerous and not very stealthy. Furthermore, this concept is ideal for personal use, and has been proven to produce yields that can more than provide for personal needs. Need more? Just grow more plants, considering how much bud you will get from about $7 a seed. Heh. Good luck and best wishes to everyone here.
great CFL technique, esp for stealth/micro closet growers
IMO,
it's all about light-bands or bandwidths-of-light. Light-bandwidths are the instructions that tell the plant what it needs to do. There are far more bands of light than just Blue or Red light that a plant can recognise. IMO, Light-bandwidths lean towards the Blue-spectrum or Red-spectrum, or they may be a mix of the two. With CFL's It depends on the manufacturer to get the bandwidths right; hence people have problems with Blue-spectrum-light giving them too much veg (as I did), or Blue-spectrum-light causing flowering too early; which I now have, and I am trying to utilise as a concept. Some manufacturers aim their bandwidth towards flowering; hence even their Blue-light spectrum products, meant for vegging, promote flowering traits. It may relate to the amount of mercury-vapour in the tube, and the way this is manufactured. I was using a Maxibright 200w Blue-light for vegging when I came accross this anomaly. Then I added another Red-light tube to the setup, with a total of 400w output, when some of the flowering was a little unreliable, and then this went well.
I can now get plants into flower very early, from about 2 weeks from seed using a Maxibright 200w Blue-light CFL, which induces flowering on its own; plus I now add a little more Red-light (total 400w output) to fully promote flowering, as some plants in less well lit positions got left behind, and I had to reflower them with Red-light after they stopped flowering. This turns out to be quite a good technique, and as I can't stop the Maxibright 200w inducing flowering anyway. (Might stop flowering on 24 hours of light though). In fact, this pic shows a plant well gone into flower after 5 weeks. I forgot to take a pic at 2 weeks becuase it was just a few pistels, and I couldn't get a focus at the time.
Although the plants are small at this stage, they still tend to get a good build of bud by the end of the grow. I just grow more plants to make up for the shortfall. A good tip is to keep seedlings in one or two rows parallel to the CFL tube, as this helps keep plants the same height; then less tethering is needed, and plants can be kept closer to the light. This is a great idea for cfl growers who want to keep their plants small, and keep stealth nice and easy. Maxibright is my name, and almost immediate flowering on Blue-light 12/12 is my game. Well, almost completely in, and you may find bud production kind of drops out a bit as they gain maturity; simply add more Red-light, or indeed a Maxibright Dual-spectrum may suit your needs better. Not been able to try this yet. More for the pros. Heh.
Please note: plants flowered from seed have the same growth period length. Flowering will all but end at the end of the cycle. So this is not a good way to start a flowering cycle for growers going onto HID or High-pressure-sodium. Therefore, plants won't get any bigger, and will soon end their cycle. (IMO, and which you can see from photos).
IMO, CFL's can be more optimal for everyday use, and where CFL's are cool, safe, stealthy and cheap to run; where HID is hot, dangerous and not very stealthy. Furthermore, this concept is ideal for personal use, and has been proven to produce yields that can more than provide for personal needs. Need more? Just grow more plants, considering how much bud you will get from about $7 a seed. Heh. Good luck and best wishes to everyone here.
Pics didn't stay on using ICMag's upload thingamajiggy. So, here they are again.
This one is in flower 5 weeks from seed. Started flowering 2 weeks from seed.
This one is at 10 weeks from seed. The plants went on to grow an average of 10cm colas after a full cycle.
The one that I had to reflower with more Red-light was about a 15cm cola after a bit longer.
This one is in flower 5 weeks from seed. Started flowering 2 weeks from seed.
This one is at 10 weeks from seed. The plants went on to grow an average of 10cm colas after a full cycle.
The one that I had to reflower with more Red-light was about a 15cm cola after a bit longer.
Fixer
Active member
Here are some pics of the KLP I just harvested right before it came down. I think I may be cooking the flowers with the LED lights. I got a lot of color this run but the buds kept building new green growth on their tips right up to the end. The growth was most prominent on the buds closest to the lights. I bought a LUX meter and have raised the lights so I have about 50,000 LUX at the top of the canopy. We'll see!
Palindrome
King of Schwag
Looking Dank as always Fixer!
I missed your reply. No, I have not used those cooler parts. I have a 30w cold block (it's what it sounds like) that I have cooled things with, but not made a water circuit.
The Ice Probe sounds interesting. Not a good fit?
Perhaps you can get peltier/tec based tank coolers with appropriate thermostats. Not a Probe, but more like a beer cooler.
Heres one. Looks like what I remember, but screwed together for you. Maybe 50-60w of cooling $140 https://www.amazon.com/Kecheer-Aqua...0ba6e&pd_rd_wg=7rhRN&pd_rd_i=B07ZDCP8D1&psc=1
The Ice Probe sounds interesting. Not a good fit?
Perhaps you can get peltier/tec based tank coolers with appropriate thermostats. Not a Probe, but more like a beer cooler.
Heres one. Looks like what I remember, but screwed together for you. Maybe 50-60w of cooling $140 https://www.amazon.com/Kecheer-Aqua...0ba6e&pd_rd_wg=7rhRN&pd_rd_i=B07ZDCP8D1&psc=1
Fixer
Active member
I do like that you can upload multiple images with one click on the new site.
These are the clones that came out of the hot veg room. I moved the cloner to and area where it never gets above 70F. I feel good about the next run of clones.
These are the clones that came out of the hot veg room. I moved the cloner to and area where it never gets above 70F. I feel good about the next run of clones.
Attachments
Fixer
Active member
filedata/fetch?id=17806256&d=1616033764
filedata/fetch?id=17806257&d=1616033771
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Next up Master Kush. They were nice and short when they went into the table. It's so much easier to get the plants through the trellis netting when they're small. Moving the cloner out of the grow room seems to be working. The new clones look good!
Next up Master Kush. They were nice and short when they went into the table. It's so much easier to get the plants through the trellis netting when they're small. Moving the cloner out of the grow room seems to be working. The new clones look good!
