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    LED Mythbusting, KILL A WATT proof

    Please share pics of any LED unit you have plugged into a Kill A Watt...


    WELTHINK WEX-C150
    Advertised: 150
    Real: 109





    LUMIGROW 330
    Advertised: 330
    Real: 331





    HYDROGROW 205
    Advertised: 205
    Real: 176





    HYDROGROW 345
    Advertised: 345
    Real: 279




    whatcha got?

    #2
    Lots of these units have thermostatically controlled fans, right? So in any given picture, the lamp could potentially pull more watts than is being shown.

    Which just points to the difficulty of doing LED comparisons: watts used are not all even generating light.

    Comment


      #3
      Correct me if I'm wrong, but is this even a valid comparison? Don't most newer consumer electronics have built-in wattage controllers that only go full out when necessary?

      Comment


        #4
        @zymos,
        not sure on the thermostatically controlled fans. the fans on my unit run when the light is on. not saying this is perfect, but it's better than the myths perpetuated by the manufacturers...

        @LoSwaga,
        i don't know that answer. but this is more realistic than the Advertised Watts...

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by LoSwaga View Post
          Correct me if I'm wrong, but is this even a valid comparison? Don't most newer consumer electronics have built-in wattage controllers that only go full out when necessary?
          If you are referring to something like the power management circuitry in laptops, then the answer is no. How would a light fixture determine when it was appropriate to run at full strength?

          Zymos, yes, there are some wattage variations on my Lumigrow ES330 - the above picture was the low point, and I have seem it up to 337 watts.
          Philips 315w CDM Elite (CMH) - Overview & Information

          My DIY Hybrid LED/PL-L Luminaire

          The VolksLED - DIY LEDs for the Masses

          sigpic -Nutrient Calculator, Suggested Element Levels

          Comment


            #6
            lumigrow es 165 leds powered off and only fans running uses 8.2 watts of power - some leds are burnt out so this reading is really pointless...


            here you can see some leds are not working, thus this is all really kind of pointless about me posting lumigrow es 165 info right now but taking pics and whatnot is fun so whatever


            lumigrow es 165 blue only leds using 40.1 watts of power - some leds are burnt out so this reading is really pointless...


            sunshine systems glowpanel 45 - advertised at 28 watts, using 24.3 watts of power


            lumigrow es 165 only red leds using 108 watts of power - some leds are burnt out so this reading is really pointless...


            lumigrow es 165 full power 140 watts - some leds are burnt out so this reading is really pointless...


            cheap ebay led panel model 2501 quad using 4.8 watts of power, advertised to use 14 watts of power, note that some leds have died on this, so let's guesstimate about 6 watts total



            haight solid state ppf-400 revision 1.1 using 77.1 watts of power when on full power mode, website states it is a 90 watt led lamp


            haight solid state ppf-400 revision 1.1 using 26.5 watts of power when on low power mode


            250 watt hps lamp 2 minutes after being turned on using 170 watts of power


            250 watt hps lamp 20 minutes after being turned on using 249 watts of power


            40 watt cfl bulb using 28.5 watts of power

            what's growing in the frogg's pond:
            https://www.icmag.com/modules/Journa...luserid=134668

            Comment


              #7
              wow, thanks for the contribution smokefrogg

              Comment


                #8
                btw smokefrogg, are you gonna send that ES 165 for repair? those have a 5 year warranty, correct?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by GP73LPC View Post
                  btw smokefrogg, are you gonna send that ES 165 for repair? those have a 5 year warranty, correct?
                  yes, i just had to let it finish something up and then shift around some mid flowering plants, i'll probably send it back monday, i'll do this again when i get it back from repair...the es 165 is only a 3 year warranty, it's under 1 year old though so i'm good!
                  what's growing in the frogg's pond:
                  https://www.icmag.com/modules/Journa...luserid=134668

                  Comment


                    #10
                    cool !!!

                    all the ads i see say 5 years, at least today...

                    Comment


                      #11
                      hmm, some sites say 3 years, some say 5...

                      the manufacturer says 3...

                      Comment


                        #12
                        It would be a weird pattern in this case, but some lights feature LEDs with 740nm (far red - flower induction), which could show up as defective if your camera uses an IR-filter in front of it's chip. If you had visible light from those LEDs in question before, then they are broken of course.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          thanks to T_B_M for these photos...


                          blackstar 240W on a kill-a-watt, only 133 watts




                          and an 240 watt from Growledhydro, pulling 245...

                          Comment


                            #14
                            It's kind of unfair to measure these things using a kill-o-watt, simply because LEDs run on current, and not watts.

                            I use some 3 Watt LEDs. Well, 3 Watt at the full 1400 mA they're rated for... I'm only using them at a "longer lasting" 1000mA, and they're doing exactly what I wanted from my design. I'm sure the Watt usage is lower.

                            There's just more "under the hood" in LED units than what can be easily (or willfully) explained by those selling them. Just look at a UHaul truck... the speedometer goes up to 95, but the speed governor keeps it at 65, max.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by *mr.mike* View Post
                              It's kind of unfair to measure these things using a kill-o-watt, simply because LEDs run on current, and not watts.

                              I use some 3 Watt LEDs. Well, 3 Watt at the full 1400 mA they're rated for... I'm only using them at a "longer lasting" 1000mA, and they're doing exactly what I wanted from my design. I'm sure the Watt usage is lower.

                              There's just more "under the hood" in LED units than what can be easily (or willfully) explained by those selling them. Just look at a UHaul truck... the speedometer goes up to 95, but the speed governor keeps it at 65, max.

                              What are you talking about? You do know (current x voltage = watts) right? The more the current, the higher the watts, and vise versa. Also, current and voltage correlate to one another with the LEDs. IE: More voltage = more current. This is why I posted the Blackstar vs. GLH 240W arrays. People say Blackstar works ok, but they lie and it is not a 240W light. It draws 100W less than they advertise (because they too drive them lower than the max rating because no LEDs can last the 50,000 hrs. at max power rating), pretty pathetic.

                              So using a Kill-A-Watt is giving you the actual current draw, but at the AC side. There are some losses due to the driver circuitry and also the fans that are being powered. So the actual power of LED output would be LOWER than the Kill-A-Watt reading. Also, I would like to note that input power for LEDs does not equal output power for LEDs. The true way to build a light is to provide the correct PPFD in the terms of micromoles per meter square per second. But you won't see any of these retailers giving you that data because they are not engineers. Youd think they would want to IMPROVE their designs and buy a spectroradiometer.

                              You get what you pay for, which is why the Blackstar is cheap and the GLH is more expensive. More power = more money. Most would think they are both 240W lights, but in reality the Blackstar did some number magic to make less informed people THINK they are getting the same power out of their light as the more expensive lights at the same wattage rating.

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