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Help with AC Infinity T6 Settings

trouthugger

Active member
I have the controller for the AC Infinity T6 fan.

I am trying to set it for my 2x2.5x6 foot tent, but not sure where to start.

Right now I just have it on speed 1 constantly, but it is sometimes too cold and dry in the tent, so would like to look at running it on some other settings besides constant. Not sure where to start though...

I am running it after a 6" carbon filter pulling air.
 

flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
I run my fan on a constant speed. The AC Infinity controller is crap and will drive you crazy. I have a fan to suck out the air through a filter, and a fan to push in air, so the tent pressure is neutral. The fan pushing in air needs a HEPA filter box, and maybe I can stop getting SMs.
 

Cactus Wes

Active member
T6 is over kill for a 2x2.5, you probably gonna run that low so you don't suck your tent to hard.

The sensor should be at canopy height to take the rough leaf surface temperature. 'Roughly'

Your far left button cycles the menu,
then up and down is self explanetory.

*Assuming you have a temperate lung room
High temp example 26°C=fan on
Low temp example 18°C=fan on. I don't use it
High humid example 71%=fan on
Low humid example 45%=fan on. I don't use it

The next four cycles are alarm settings, you can set those individually. I keep them off.

Cycle the left button to on and you can set the fan speed, It will stay on continuous run if you don't cycle the left button past the 'off' and once more past the 'timer'.
Only then will your program will run.
I keep the selection bullet on the 'high temp', ready to go down the list making adjustments to the settings when I need.

For fan placement:

- Blowing into the tent will create a positive pressure imitating a lower elevation climate.

- Sucking out of the tent creates a negative pressure imitating a higher elevation climate.

*only suck through carbon filters.

I have a 5x5 and my T6 has bent my bars with the power of the suction.
I have HEPA filters on all my penetration creating substantial resistance, so I lose 1 foot all around effectively turning it into a 4x4.
Hopefully some of this info helped.
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
HEPA grades seem a good idea, but are actually overkill. Costing to much financially and in airflow. Perhaps noise to, as it means running the fans harder. HEPA grades offer the highest filtration but we are talking vapour. A below average filter will catch mould particles. Glass wool stuff, like the sock on your carbon. I think it's euro grade 6, but it's something I look up, rather than remember.

I'm not sure I have woke up yet. Are we saying the controller only goes down to number 1, which is still too high? If so, some other flow restriction needs adding. Shutters perhaps. Butterfly. Vanes. Old T-Shirt.


EDIT: I have fixed a few tent grows with a blanket. If a tent is in a cold space, it can loose heat like it's not even there. Even with the fan off and HID lighting. Perhaps some old bed covers will keep more heat in, and the RH could be increased with a humidifier. Every situation is different..
 

trouthugger

Active member
T6 is over kill for a 2x2.5, you probably gonna run that low so you don't suck your tent to hard.

The sensor should be at canopy height to take the rough leaf surface temperature. 'Roughly'

Your far left button cycles the menu,
then up and down is self explanetory.

*Assuming you have a temperate lung room
High temp example 26°C=fan on
Low temp example 18°C=fan on. I don't use it
High humid example 71%=fan on
Low humid example 45%=fan on. I don't use it

The next four cycles are alarm settings, you can set those individually. I keep them off.

Cycle the left button to on and you can set the fan speed, It will stay on continuous run if you don't cycle the left button past the 'off' and once more past the 'timer'.
Only then will your program will run.
I keep the selection bullet on the 'high temp', ready to go down the list making adjustments to the settings when I need.

For fan placement:

- Blowing into the tent will create a positive pressure imitating a lower elevation climate.

- Sucking out of the tent creates a negative pressure imitating a higher elevation climate.

*only suck through carbon filters.

I have a 5x5 and my T6 has bent my bars with the power of the suction.
I have HEPA filters on all my penetration creating substantial resistance, so I lose 1 foot all around effectively turning it into a 4x4.
Hopefully some of this info helped.

I agree that T6 is overkill, this is my first setup and didn't want to have to upgrade when I get a bigger tent.

Right now it is running on low and it's not sucking too hard. I think I have negative pressure, which I need for odor control.

Basically trying to ensure negative pressure and a constant environment while using as little power as possible.
 

trouthugger

Active member
HEPA grades seem a good idea, but are actually overkill. Costing to much financially and in airflow. Perhaps noise to, as it means running the fans harder. HEPA grades offer the highest filtration but we are talking vapour. A below average filter will catch mould particles. Glass wool stuff, like the sock on your carbon. I think it's euro grade 6, but it's something I look up, rather than remember.

I'm not sure I have woke up yet. Are we saying the controller only goes down to number 1, which is still too high? If so, some other flow restriction needs adding. Shutters perhaps. Butterfly. Vanes. Old T-Shirt.


EDIT: I have fixed a few tent grows with a blanket. If a tent is in a cold space, it can loose heat like it's not even there. Even with the fan off and HID lighting. Perhaps some old bed covers will keep more heat in, and the RH could be increased with a humidifier. Every situation is different..

I don't think number 1 is too high. I get a slight negative pressure in the tent. But it is running constantly and sometimes has a low humidity and a lower temp.

Maybe I should look into cycles so it doesn't run constantly. But will this effect my negative pressure and odor control?
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Though I can't see it, I doubt cycling will be a good idea. If you don't direct the air, it will move as it pleases.
To measure negative pressure, many will use a flame or smoking cigarette at the gaps where air goes in.
If you run a carbon very low, the air can work it's way around the granules without touching them. This is usually the limiting factor in air speed.
You may need to look at adding some RH with a humidifier. Maybe a heater. Or, some way of not letting the heat and warmth you have leave. The scrubbed air that gets blown out, can be directed back towards the tent to do the circuit again. It's not ideal for co2 if the plants are constantly using it. Many tents are indoors through where co2 is actually accumulating though. By keep the same air, you may actually get higher co2 levels if some is being added by people and combustion. We have maybe 420ppm coming into most homes, but 600+ within them. Making a nice fresh air feed from outside inferior to recycled air. As indoor air could be warmer and damper, with more co2.
 

Cactus Wes

Active member
I am so glad I bought an AC Infinity on day one.
I highly recommend it to anyone looking to tent grow. fans are the worst at parasitizing power.
With the features the AC has such as slowly turning on as to not surge the power, and having a thermostat for temp shut off; it out performs an 'inkbird' and fan combo on power consumption.

One should have a fan inside the tent to push around the heat generated from the light. A fan is required in the tent to circulate air, eliminating microclimates.

I like to have a couple of thermometers,
one outside the tent, for 'lung room temps',
one at the base of the plant pot for 'rough soil temps', and one in the canopy for 'rough leaf surface temps'.

With those three climate readings you are going to have a better idea of how your incremental changes are affecting your environment.

Slow suck through carbon is better than a hard suck.lol
The AC Infinity will last so much longer if there are HEPA filters on the tent's intakes.
My AC circulates more air than my furnace over the course of a year, so hepa filter's to scrub the air is a must.
No other hobby cleans your house while growing weed.lol
HEPA is a rating/standard.
HEPA will capture 99.97% of all 'fryable' particulate that passes through it.
It's the CDC standard for handling mold, asbestos, bio hazardous waste.....
But not gases.
You wont be saturating your filter's with moisture.
If you did it would change the properties of the filter and the filter would become ineffective.

Just like the surgical masks people think are protecting them. After a few breaths the mask is so saturated with humidity the inhale and exhale goes around the mask, effectively coating ones face with what ever is coming out of their mouth; bacteria.

Saturating your tent filters isn't going to be a thing.

Good Luck Growmie!
 

Three Berries

Active member
I just got the 4" one for my 3x3x5 tent. It's great. Haven't used in in the summer yet but it should have no problem as the room is air conditioned. But the humidly cycling when the lights are off , or anytime is what I really wanted control of. I have it set on 74% Fan at 6. It is more fan that it needs but it gives a good purge of the tent and a bigger swing on the humidity. Fan set at 1 and it will swing 1% on an off. 6 it will bring it to near room RH.

Temp is set at 75F, it comes on once in a while as the room is 65F or lower. At full power it's kind of noisy so get bigger if that is a concern.

I need the 6" for my flower room. :)
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
HEPA is a rating/standard.
HEPA will capture 99.97% of all 'fryable' particulate that passes through it. It's the CDC standard for handling mold, asbestos, bio hazardous waste.....
But not gases.

Good Luck Growmie!

99.97% is where they start calling Air Particulate filters High Efficiency. They are suitable down to 0.00003mm at that qualifying grade.

These higher grades can cost serious money. I had access to a carpet roll of the stuff, and even that close to source, it was expensive.

Areas that use such grades, are entered wearing white suits. It's a lot of filtration.



I liked the SMS branded controllers. You set a temp, and it found the perfect speed. It had linear control, from full speed, down to the minimum you set. Just two knobs.
The twin fan one, allowed you to run the inlet at a proportion of the exhaust fans speed. As a hack, you could use a twin controller, for one fan. Plug it in the inlet power socket, and get control of the maximum fan speed as well as the minimum. With the controller running any speed between the two, that it needs.
This was great. You could set the minimum speed to keep negative pressure, and edge it up over the grow to meet the RH extraction needs. The upper speed set for noise or mismatched parts.

It sounds like this T6 just goes on and off. Surely not...

I've about moved to EC motors everywhere. Controls for them are lacking still. They have the same 0-10v/PWM/VR of many LED drivers. Which again.. are lacking. Now my fans fixed speed, but the lights dim if it gets way too hot. I'm not doing something right lol


flylowgethigh Could you use a spider spray? You can draw lines with it on the ground. Lasts months. Needs to be an hours walk from your buds though. It won't be approved for smoking.
 

flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
F-e, I have a dawg, and with my luck the poison stuff would hurt her. I or the dawg probably bring in the mites or eggs anyways. And I could be a bit more tidy inside. And I could get some killer red mites.
 

Three Berries

Active member
The T4 I got ramps up and down. You can limit the maximum speed. The set speed is good for all the triggers such as high temp and high humidity. Two low settings too but I don't use them
 

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