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    #16
    Originally posted by CrushnYuba View Post
    That's a super impressive window.
    Thanks, I used the DPDT idea you shared with me. Appreciate it.
    The top is 3" short of the peek but there's plenty of air moving through to take all the hot out.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Zeez View Post
      Starting to put together the new control box for this years greenhouse upgrades. Everything will be automated and controlled / monitored from anywhere using z-wave.

      10x Controlled A/c outlets
      3x Controlled D/c lines

      AC used for,
      1x 24v power supply and 1 110v / 24v DPDT relay for roll up sides
      1x 12v power supply and 1 110v / 12v DPDT relay for 12" ridge vent actuator.
      1x 12v Power supply for 3 24v dc switches controlling irrigation valves and pumps

      4 110v outlets controlling fans and ventilation.

      View Image
      Like the case Z......looks like it should be handcuffed to a Secret Service agent...."The Football is in Play".

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        #18
        Originally posted by NEW ENGLAND View Post
        Like the case Z......looks like it should be handcuffed to a Secret Service agent...."The Football is in Play".
        Yeah, That's the waterproof STUDEBAKER HOCH, Secret Briefcase.

        The same Studebaker Hoch, Secret Agent that plays conga drums on the new LEON RUSSELL album?

        (only for Zappa fans)

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          #19
          hahaha.......it's the minkey's attache!

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            #20
            Share some pictures of the window framing. Have you gotten it to seal pretty well? I have to put a window into a little over winter mother plant storage house.

            I think we have been doing it all wrong for a while. It's not the sides that need to vent, it's the roof.

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              #21
              Hot air rises, but you still need to let the cool air in.

              I used end clamps for everything. The divider for the roll up was used as the bottom of the window. (less work). Then the window was sized to get close to the hoop apex. Two pin style door hinges on top with the open side in. By connecting the actuator higher up, I got more lift out of it. It's rated for 225# so it can handle allot more than this. The whole thing was pretty simple.

              Here's the 12" 12v actuator. It's rated IP65.
              https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

              Still had enough light.






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                #22
                What are you going to build the window sill out of?

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                  #23
                  On top the covering has no seam. It's just cut out on three sides.

                  For the bottom and two sides, I have this thick clear plastic that is soft and pliable. My plan is to put this under the wiggle wire channel and have it overlap on the outside, like flashing. The thing is, the description sys its pvc so I plan on testing it with the covering before installing it.

                  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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                    #24
                    I took the roll up motors off for the winter. Inside the greenhouse with the hatch closed and full sun the temp went up fast. Doors at both ends were open. It got hot. As I got the electrics sorted out the difference with the hatch open was unbelievable. It was no problem being inside and there was very little temperature differential with the outdoor temp.

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                      #25
                      Started work on the In Greenhouse iPad App.
                      These are just starters and will change as it gets dialed in.

                      Several of the functions will be automated.
                      Sides will roll up and vent will open and close on a schedule.
                      Sides and vent close if it's cold or raining.
                      Circulation fan scheduled.
                      Watering on schedule.
                      Feeding on schedule.
                      Security, Like you wouldn't believe.

                      Ipad is so old it won't do a screenshot.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by CrushnYuba View Post
                        Share some pictures of the window framing. Have you gotten it to seal pretty well? I have to put a window into a little over winter mother plant storage house.

                        I think we have been doing it all wrong for a while. It's not the sides that need to vent, it's the roof.
                        I understand that you could roll the sides up higher but there would be less structural integrity.

                        Here in MA we have another local problem, Bug crap. Everything outdoors gets covered with it. Fungus and mold grows on it. Cars, plants, everything outdoors gets covered with a black coating of black crap. This spring I need to wash it off the cover with vinegar and dawn. GH weed in this area can easily pass as indoor bc there is no crap.

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                          #27
                          I don't think you would want to roll all the way up to the peak from the base on a larger hoop shaped house like blackout does.
                          The most recent house i did didn't have roll up sidewalls. The sidewalls are fixed until like 4ft up.

                          Check out this design. I have seen allot of houses like this recently.
                          https://www.google.com/search?q=rovero+roll+air&oq=ro vero+roll+air&aqs=chrome..69i5 7j35i39j0l2.7055j0j4&client=ms-android-verizon&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#

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                            #28
                            Typical German. They do everything big. There's allot to be said for simplicity in design. I'll bet it takes a long time to pay off the technology..

                            Initially I wanted to do light dep, decided to start off learning about greenhouse growing first. My hoop house was built with extra hoops for an overlap at the ends and I'v got the extra motors. Still thinking about doing it this year. If the house is blacked out from 4am to 7am and 7pm to 10pm there shouldn't be too much of a cooling issue. I came up with a good cheep design for blacking out the fans.

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                              #29
                              The Chinese have been doing roll back roofs on gutter connected houses like that for a long time also. Similar designs can be of together pretty cheap.

                              I think doing depp is easier. Especially if you live out east. Even if you just do one run, it would be nice to be done earlier. Fall is terrible there. Also, it can be tough to get plants sized right in constricted places like greenhouses. Being able to flip when it's ready is nice. I have seen plants outgrow greenhouses so many times before. I don't know anyone that does full term in a greenhouse out here anymore. We have nice weather so greenhouses cause way more problems then they solve for full season.

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                                #30
                                Yup. It makes way too much sense.

                                My original plan was to have the roll up motors on one end and the black out motors on the other end, parking the blackout rolls on top. The GH was built with extra hoops for the black out overlap. For blackout on the ventilation, the plan is to have two air inlets and two fans out. Each would have three 55 gallon storage bins with squares cutting out 1/3 of the bottom of each bin. The three bins could then be stacked with the cutouts alternating so the air would zigzag in but no light. Very easy to fabricate and cheep.

                                https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-55-G...NE-4/205597365


                                Last year.


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