Stay Frosty
Member
So it looks like the Bayer T&S did the trick and the dead bugs dont seem to be affecting anything. Thanks everyone again!!
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Phylloxera information - aka root mites aka root aphids
- Thread starter Scay Beez
- Start date
i was just going to say the same thing grey. made one last week after dealing with cloning issues for the last time. i'm done! now this shiite?
For all we know they drop these outta the fuckin sky in egg form!
if it's sonoma that's another reason not to like n.cali.
going to look for a solution today bug bomb included.
OHGEE - here we go again
mrgreengenes1
New member
When used in the nursery for things like lantana mothers, there is some carry over to the cuttings. They will have protection for a while but once they are rooted well they may need their own dose. Remember if you are using this product it is in the plant for 90 days in sufficient amounts to repel and kill insects, so if you are going to use it do it early.
mrgreengenes1
New member
Not all twitchy or drooling or Asthma, not Yet! But that could change over time.
No carcinogenicity was seen in rats fed up to 1,800 mg/kg of imidacloprid for two years. But...was positive for chromosomal changes in human lymphocytes and for genotoxicity in CHO cells.
There are other ways to control insects including better cultural practices.
mrgreengenes1
New member
No they would not be "safe" for sure. They would be free of phylloxera but not for sure "safe". The Napa vineyards know all about Imidacloprid but chose to destroy the vineyards rather than have the chemical residues in their grapes. Think about that!
attila76
Member
Holy Shiznut,
There back!! I'm speechless. After pulling down the whole crop soley in order to eradicate these bastards After 6 weeks of building back my garden I find them crawling on my net pots again!
This is how persistent these things are. I totally emptied my grow room, bleached the walls, floors, tossed out all hydroton, scrubbed and soaked for several days in bleach all buckets and equipment, ditched the recirculation system, new bubble stones, new tubing. Waited one week before new clones. Did I say how much bleach I used? I never saw one flying, only submersed in water through a hand held microscope.
Now six weeks later... they are back.
Before I did not realize how many people had success with Bayer Tree and Scrub (imidacloprid). I'll be doing that first thing tomorrow, before they get ahead of me. Its just started, nothing like I saw before.
I'm just in a total state of shock. I truly fear that my family and I will become homeless as a result of this intractable infestation.
There back!! I'm speechless. After pulling down the whole crop soley in order to eradicate these bastards After 6 weeks of building back my garden I find them crawling on my net pots again!
This is how persistent these things are. I totally emptied my grow room, bleached the walls, floors, tossed out all hydroton, scrubbed and soaked for several days in bleach all buckets and equipment, ditched the recirculation system, new bubble stones, new tubing. Waited one week before new clones. Did I say how much bleach I used? I never saw one flying, only submersed in water through a hand held microscope.
Now six weeks later... they are back.
Before I did not realize how many people had success with Bayer Tree and Scrub (imidacloprid). I'll be doing that first thing tomorrow, before they get ahead of me. Its just started, nothing like I saw before.
I'm just in a total state of shock. I truly fear that my family and I will become homeless as a result of this intractable infestation.
attila76
Member
Identification? Is this that?
Identification? Is this that?
My photos do not seam to jive with A few others that I have seen here. Still I thing that from everything else that this is it.
I got this photo using a hand held microscope, put my camera up to it just right and click. So what you see is what I see through the 30X microscope. Very, very small. You almost need 20/20 vision to see them at all with the naked eye. Looks like a fleck of skin, or small piece of table salt.
I need some feedback here, pleazzzze.
Is this Phylloxera?
http://www.icmag.com/ic/images/smilies/1zhelp.gif
Identification? Is this that?
My photos do not seam to jive with A few others that I have seen here. Still I thing that from everything else that this is it.
I got this photo using a hand held microscope, put my camera up to it just right and click. So what you see is what I see through the 30X microscope. Very, very small. You almost need 20/20 vision to see them at all with the naked eye. Looks like a fleck of skin, or small piece of table salt.
I need some feedback here, pleazzzze.
Is this Phylloxera?
http://www.icmag.com/ic/images/smilies/1zhelp.gif
Attachments
attila76
Member
Or this picture...
This could be something else... something worse. The last time a strong nicotine (tabaco tea, would not even kill these things (in a petri dish of course.) So I figured that Bayer t&s would be weaker. A fake nicotine. Maybe I was wrong... Oh God.http://www.icmag.com/ic/images/smilies/fsu.gif
This game is high stakes. Too easy to fall off the ladder. I hope this Imid works. It must
This could be something else... something worse. The last time a strong nicotine (tabaco tea, would not even kill these things (in a petri dish of course.) So I figured that Bayer t&s would be weaker. A fake nicotine. Maybe I was wrong... Oh God.http://www.icmag.com/ic/images/smilies/fsu.gif
This game is high stakes. Too easy to fall off the ladder. I hope this Imid works. It must
Attachments
Last edited:
Atilla, welcome to the club. I would not mess about with the tobacco. That was my original plan but I'm glad I used imid.
I had a look at some friends grows and both were infested and neither had any idea. They both veg indoors and flower outdoors and the outdoor ones seemed not too bad. The indoor ones had a fair infestation. Are any of you guys outdoor and suffer from phylloxera? Seems to me like natural predatory control was taking place. Not total control, but these guys were quite happy before I informed them of all this. I doubt they'd even treat it and they were skeptical it could be much of a problem.
My confidor treatment seemed to work slowly but they seem all gone. We'll see.
I had a look at some friends grows and both were infested and neither had any idea. They both veg indoors and flower outdoors and the outdoor ones seemed not too bad. The indoor ones had a fair infestation. Are any of you guys outdoor and suffer from phylloxera? Seems to me like natural predatory control was taking place. Not total control, but these guys were quite happy before I informed them of all this. I doubt they'd even treat it and they were skeptical it could be much of a problem.
My confidor treatment seemed to work slowly but they seem all gone. We'll see.
S
Shan Diego
Yes, it is. Use the imid.
attila76
Member
Thanks guys, (guys? right he he)
I'll be doing this ASAP. Right now its in its beginning stage. The roots are still white and healthy, not orange and brown.
This forum is the most comprehensive discussion about this topic anywhere, period. My hat goes off to all whose dedication to keeping with this issue long after you solved the problem. Shan Diego Your persistence rivals Phylloxera.
I'll be doing this ASAP. Right now its in its beginning stage. The roots are still white and healthy, not orange and brown.
This forum is the most comprehensive discussion about this topic anywhere, period. My hat goes off to all whose dedication to keeping with this issue long after you solved the problem. Shan Diego Your persistence rivals Phylloxera.
attila76
Member
Ninja,
Agreed, tabaco tea is NOT effective at all. Neither is Azatrol, regardless of dose, nor is peroxide.
As for the inside/outside difference-
I'm a legal medical grower in Colorado, strictly indoors. While I have no experience outdoor, I can't imagine that it makes a difference. This pest comes from the wine crop (ie outdoor) and it has destroyed entire vineyards. Besides, its too cold, snow on the ground today, and the effected plants are in hydro.
I'm going with the imid...
enough people here have had success with that that it seems that only real option.
Agreed, tabaco tea is NOT effective at all. Neither is Azatrol, regardless of dose, nor is peroxide.
As for the inside/outside difference-
I'm a legal medical grower in Colorado, strictly indoors. While I have no experience outdoor, I can't imagine that it makes a difference. This pest comes from the wine crop (ie outdoor) and it has destroyed entire vineyards. Besides, its too cold, snow on the ground today, and the effected plants are in hydro.
I'm going with the imid...
enough people here have had success with that that it seems that only real option.
attila76
Member
Medium question
Medium question
So....
I'm rocking 4 pots in DWC. Just simple 5 gallon bucket with airstones. Real simple.
They definitely have the dreaded pests.
But most of my plants are in Sunshine #4 Soilless Mix...
-How does one see them in this medium? They are so small. What should I look for? By the time I see them they will have killed the plants.
As for treating phylloxera in soilless mix I should feed it at the 5 ml/us gallon with the nutes at a regular feeding?
Bali_Man has clear instructions regarding hydro, Which I will be following.
But dirt..... just pour it in like any other additive??
As always... I'm not worthy
Medium question
So....
I'm rocking 4 pots in DWC. Just simple 5 gallon bucket with airstones. Real simple.
They definitely have the dreaded pests.
But most of my plants are in Sunshine #4 Soilless Mix...
-How does one see them in this medium? They are so small. What should I look for? By the time I see them they will have killed the plants.
As for treating phylloxera in soilless mix I should feed it at the 5 ml/us gallon with the nutes at a regular feeding?
Bali_Man has clear instructions regarding hydro, Which I will be following.
But dirt..... just pour it in like any other additive??
As always... I'm not worthy
Last edited:
mrgreengenes1
New member
A soil drench means just that, with any pesticide application. All you have to do is dilute the material to the proper rate and add the dose 4 or 6 ozs per 2 gallon pot or what ever the instructions say. Just pour that amount into the soil. Plants should NOT be real dry before application and then hold off irrigation as long as possible to give the plant time to take up the material. When watering is resumed go light so you do not flush the cemical out the bottom of the pot.
attila76
Member
Here goes...
Here goes...
Ok so...
Here goes.
Starting with one five gallon DWC bucket, 4 gallons of nutes at 550 ppm, ph 5.8.
Add 20 teaspoons of Bayer Tree and Scrub, straight into one test bucket. (see pict)
(Plan to leave in treatment for one week. Bali_man said to apply for only an hour. That doesn't make sense. How can the roots absorb the imid in said time? Agreed?)
Initial Observations:
-Lots of foam
-Ph went up, from 5.8- to 6.5. Took an unusual amount of ph down to move the dial down to 6.0... um.
-PPM went up 250 points. The label states that it has nutes. so ok. From 550 to 800. um... can they manage?? four week old AK-47s
Perhaps I should dilute with water and BTS only solution to bring down the concentration.... in a quandry.
Any red flags so far?
Here goes...
Ok so...
Here goes.
Starting with one five gallon DWC bucket, 4 gallons of nutes at 550 ppm, ph 5.8.
Add 20 teaspoons of Bayer Tree and Scrub, straight into one test bucket. (see pict)
(Plan to leave in treatment for one week. Bali_man said to apply for only an hour. That doesn't make sense. How can the roots absorb the imid in said time? Agreed?)
Initial Observations:
-Lots of foam
-Ph went up, from 5.8- to 6.5. Took an unusual amount of ph down to move the dial down to 6.0... um.
-PPM went up 250 points. The label states that it has nutes. so ok. From 550 to 800. um... can they manage?? four week old AK-47s
Perhaps I should dilute with water and BTS only solution to bring down the concentration.... in a quandry.
Any red flags so far?
Attachments
I am by no means an expert but seeing that reaction, I would think maybe try one of the stronger solutions of imid. The confidor didn't change my ec, or ph, or the appearance of the nutes.
attila76
Member
Now I see the light!
Now I see the light!
ScrubNinja,
I thought that this was supposed to be a systemic only. This stuff is incredible! Instant death!
Within minutes a white cheesy gunk forms on top of the foam. That gunk is THEM.http://www.icmag.com/ic/images/smilies/woohoo.gif
Here is what I plan to do. Two stage treatment. http://www.icmag.com/ic/images/smilies/dueling.gif
Stage one: Short and high dose. ie three hours, or over night in 4 tsp per gallon. This seems to kill all of them, but who knows. There MAY be a few hardy bastards.
Clean gunk away with tap. Make new nutes for stage two.
Stage two: prolonged treament at recommended dose, one week at 1 tsp per gallon. This should allow the systemic to enter the plants for long term protection.
Then monitor on a regular basis. Or just do stage one treatment once weekly.
Now I see the light!
ScrubNinja,
I thought that this was supposed to be a systemic only. This stuff is incredible! Instant death!
Within minutes a white cheesy gunk forms on top of the foam. That gunk is THEM.http://www.icmag.com/ic/images/smilies/woohoo.gif
Here is what I plan to do. Two stage treatment. http://www.icmag.com/ic/images/smilies/dueling.gif
Stage one: Short and high dose. ie three hours, or over night in 4 tsp per gallon. This seems to kill all of them, but who knows. There MAY be a few hardy bastards.
Clean gunk away with tap. Make new nutes for stage two.
Stage two: prolonged treament at recommended dose, one week at 1 tsp per gallon. This should allow the systemic to enter the plants for long term protection.
Then monitor on a regular basis. Or just do stage one treatment once weekly.
Attachments
attila76
Member
Not so fast there mister
Not so fast there mister
Ok so..
They are not all dead. That white chessy gunk is not the dreaded pest, its the Bayer Tree and Scrub coagulating in the water. I still see live bugs on the pot.
Looks like a long term fight. Bali man was right there is no easy fix here. http://www.icmag.com/ic/images/smilies/wallbash.gif
When determining if they are in the my soil pots what should I look for?
These things are hard enough to see on a flat black surface. I imagine that they blend in to the dirt.
Not so fast there mister
Ok so..
They are not all dead. That white chessy gunk is not the dreaded pest, its the Bayer Tree and Scrub coagulating in the water. I still see live bugs on the pot.
Looks like a long term fight. Bali man was right there is no easy fix here. http://www.icmag.com/ic/images/smilies/wallbash.gif
When determining if they are in the my soil pots what should I look for?
These things are hard enough to see on a flat black surface. I imagine that they blend in to the dirt.
the merit wp blends real nice; the bayer may not like all the dissolved oxygen... also make sure that imid is the ONLY active ingredient in the bayer product; they like to change things up adding new miticides into the mix and whatnot
imid is a 90 day systemic if properly applied; anything that strong i'd only apply once. i highly recommend the merit 75 wp; it will kill all the root aphids. mine looked like black dots crawling on the netpots and whatnot; after the application they just disappeared all together; not even dead to clean up. additionally i'd get some gnatrol wdg which also mixes very well with any nutes, you can find smaller amounts online that aren't as expensive (same goes for the merit), its a concentrated bt product that will kill the larva of most insects in your medium; very benign with the plants and much much more effective than a mosquito dunk. this way you're able to kill the root aphids and, if they aren't root aphids, whatever else they may be in one treatment allowing you to get back to growing. no reason this has to be a protracted battle.
good luck
imid is a 90 day systemic if properly applied; anything that strong i'd only apply once. i highly recommend the merit 75 wp; it will kill all the root aphids. mine looked like black dots crawling on the netpots and whatnot; after the application they just disappeared all together; not even dead to clean up. additionally i'd get some gnatrol wdg which also mixes very well with any nutes, you can find smaller amounts online that aren't as expensive (same goes for the merit), its a concentrated bt product that will kill the larva of most insects in your medium; very benign with the plants and much much more effective than a mosquito dunk. this way you're able to kill the root aphids and, if they aren't root aphids, whatever else they may be in one treatment allowing you to get back to growing. no reason this has to be a protracted battle.
good luck
