bicycle racer
Member
my new problem is powdery mildew always something.
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Phylloxera information - aka root mites aka root aphids
- Thread starter Scay Beez
- Start date
works very well for fungis, rot, damping off, pythium, mould, algea, but also nukes all microbial life.
oxidizes larvae but seams to have little effect on exoskelitons.
ozone generator and green cure, or heavy dose of baking soda/water then cycle milk/water as an alternate. RH <%50
Hi, I tried to apply Imid with Bayer complete insect killer and killed my plants.
Please check out this thread and help me figure out why this happened, and how to prevent it again:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=3572781&posted=1#post3572781
Please check out this thread and help me figure out why this happened, and how to prevent it again:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=3572781&posted=1#post3572781
<~Hades~>
Active member
<~Hades~>
Active member
Thought i killed the pricks a month ago......Just did one app of bayer and tree shrub at 10 ml a gallon............Started to have A few moms just croak and like everyone else plants stop drinking... Last night a Stardawg mom > i keep small moms 1 gallon coco pots usaully keep 2 of each strain incase one dies ~ so i never loose a strain!!!
So FIrst the plant starts to drop Like over watering then finally just dies like a clone with outa dome. Had a chemd do the same, So i peel back the Rapid rooter that Is still around the base and LIl fuckers Eat at the main mass of stem until the center becomes mush
Whats the frequncy to re apply. only reason i think i got them back was i just applied once a month or so back....and never reapplied !!!
So FIrst the plant starts to drop Like over watering then finally just dies like a clone with outa dome. Had a chemd do the same, So i peel back the Rapid rooter that Is still around the base and LIl fuckers Eat at the main mass of stem until the center becomes mush
Whats the frequncy to re apply. only reason i think i got them back was i just applied once a month or so back....and never reapplied !!!
attila76
Member
Using CO2 for control.
Using CO2 for control.
Boy I thought that I had finished with Root Aphids last Xmas. Having posted much of the details of the last battle in hydro to this post, I am forced to come back and add to the knowledge again.
So, imid has not worked all that well for me in hydro. My variety is bullet proof.
So for those that:
Have root aphids
Have a CO2 tank
Have dry soil, dry coco, or dry soilless mix
Try this:
Instructions:
Get a large plastic bag. Put the container in the bag. Insert CO2 tube into bag, From the top tie the bag up as air tight as possible.
Run CO2 as usual, (controller or timed release). Treat for no more than 24 hours, as roots need O2.
Keep in mind that the roots can outlast the root ahpids.
My experience:
I found that I had a minor infestation. No fliers, only the smallest crawlers. As a baseline, I could find 15 bugs in a 3 minute check.
After treating with CO2 some did survive. But they are very hard to find. Really I usually don't have the patience to find them. And when I have seen them its only 1 that I have found.
Bo Ya
Using CO2 for control.
Boy I thought that I had finished with Root Aphids last Xmas. Having posted much of the details of the last battle in hydro to this post, I am forced to come back and add to the knowledge again.
So, imid has not worked all that well for me in hydro. My variety is bullet proof.
So for those that:
Have root aphids
Have a CO2 tank
Have dry soil, dry coco, or dry soilless mix
Try this:
Instructions:
Get a large plastic bag. Put the container in the bag. Insert CO2 tube into bag, From the top tie the bag up as air tight as possible.
Run CO2 as usual, (controller or timed release). Treat for no more than 24 hours, as roots need O2.
Keep in mind that the roots can outlast the root ahpids.
My experience:
I found that I had a minor infestation. No fliers, only the smallest crawlers. As a baseline, I could find 15 bugs in a 3 minute check.
After treating with CO2 some did survive. But they are very hard to find. Really I usually don't have the patience to find them. And when I have seen them its only 1 that I have found.
Bo Ya
sub'ing
bicycle racer
Member
thanks to all contributers i had these bastards 6 months ago and now again worst of all pests i have yet dealt with.
What damage does the root aphid do to the plants? Are they in the UK?
I have loads of little white mites in my coco, but my plants look fine, a couple of weeks from harvest.
With Root Aphids, will they always show up on the underside of leaves etc, or can they remain totally withing the coco.
As I said, my plants are showing no signs of ill health, the roots around the surface, where there are many bugs, are in good condition, I cant pull one from the pots at this stage as they`re big and full of bud and tied into supporting lines. My plants are drinking as I`d expect them to be, 20+yrs experience too, so I hope I`m safe to assume this is a harmless mite I have here.
I dont want to start panicking about them being root aphids, I dont think they are, as there is no apparent visible damage or signs of struggle in the crop, and my pots have good colonies of this bug.
What is the best way of ID`ing such small bugs, so difficult to get a good enough close up.
I assume, treatments for the def/lock=outs that the root aphid, are pointless and unsuccessful unless the mite is under control, is that the case?
Thanks, Toke
I have loads of little white mites in my coco, but my plants look fine, a couple of weeks from harvest.
With Root Aphids, will they always show up on the underside of leaves etc, or can they remain totally withing the coco.
As I said, my plants are showing no signs of ill health, the roots around the surface, where there are many bugs, are in good condition, I cant pull one from the pots at this stage as they`re big and full of bud and tied into supporting lines. My plants are drinking as I`d expect them to be, 20+yrs experience too, so I hope I`m safe to assume this is a harmless mite I have here.
I dont want to start panicking about them being root aphids, I dont think they are, as there is no apparent visible damage or signs of struggle in the crop, and my pots have good colonies of this bug.
What is the best way of ID`ing such small bugs, so difficult to get a good enough close up.
I assume, treatments for the def/lock=outs that the root aphid, are pointless and unsuccessful unless the mite is under control, is that the case?
Thanks, Toke
i have bought and used it and have a couple thread dedicated to it without much info given back....
i got rid of my aphids before i got my botanigard so i didnt get a true test with it... however i just got some clones back with some crawling bugs like the picture above and will be using it to see if it kills them... i will try and let you guys know but from what i know this is the shit you want for root aphids... you suppose to be able to apply up to the day of harvest with no ill effects...
ill try and keep everyone posted...
what i good tread.
i dont know if it has been touched down, but how about planting pyrethium flowers in perimeter of garden as preventive?
http://www.ehow.com/how_2104046_grow-pyrethrum.html
i dont know if it has been touched down, but how about planting pyrethium flowers in perimeter of garden as preventive?
http://www.ehow.com/how_2104046_grow-pyrethrum.html
Beta,
Can't argue with results. I used it on my last crop and my plants were totally healthy and very productive of high quality tasty buds. I used the WP, but will replace it with Mycotrol. With a liquid you don't have the spore dust factor.
I first did a 20 minute soak of the medium and AeroBags in Cedarcide PCO Choice. This gives very close to a 99.9% kill of all stages incl. eggs. I immediatedly flushed because the Cedarcide will cause root damage. First treatment with Botanigard was a 20 minute soak. After that, every 2-3 weeks I watered heavily with it.
I applied Nematodes during bloom and in the first week of 12/12, I sprayed foliage only with Azasol, the oil free, instantly soluble, much more systemic, non-phytotoxic form of Azadiractin.
The reason for a 20-30 minute soak, with entire container and medium below water line is to get the spores on every RA. RA Central is just below the stem of the plant, and watering seldom reaches them there.
Tokesome,
If your plants had loads of RA's you would see dramatic detrimental effects. They would be rapidly cratering. Must be mites. If you can catch/kill one to examine it, mites have 8 legs, insects 6. Also, Gnatrol, when fresh, is great for killing Fungus Gnats, but has no effect on RA's. The other RA measures should be overkill for any FG's. Good luck. -granger
Can't argue with results. I used it on my last crop and my plants were totally healthy and very productive of high quality tasty buds. I used the WP, but will replace it with Mycotrol. With a liquid you don't have the spore dust factor.
I first did a 20 minute soak of the medium and AeroBags in Cedarcide PCO Choice. This gives very close to a 99.9% kill of all stages incl. eggs. I immediatedly flushed because the Cedarcide will cause root damage. First treatment with Botanigard was a 20 minute soak. After that, every 2-3 weeks I watered heavily with it.
I applied Nematodes during bloom and in the first week of 12/12, I sprayed foliage only with Azasol, the oil free, instantly soluble, much more systemic, non-phytotoxic form of Azadiractin.
The reason for a 20-30 minute soak, with entire container and medium below water line is to get the spores on every RA. RA Central is just below the stem of the plant, and watering seldom reaches them there.
Tokesome,
If your plants had loads of RA's you would see dramatic detrimental effects. They would be rapidly cratering. Must be mites. If you can catch/kill one to examine it, mites have 8 legs, insects 6. Also, Gnatrol, when fresh, is great for killing Fungus Gnats, but has no effect on RA's. The other RA measures should be overkill for any FG's. Good luck. -granger
May I refer some people who still have RA issues to a solution I discovered years ago: A 20 minute dunk of Orthene and Riptide (1 tsp each/per gallon of water). A while back I treated a garden with 2/3 strength...and everything worked perfectly! RAs dead, plants alive!
More details on this thread (and others)...https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5629493&postcount=1976
Imid has a nasty half life that is counted in hundreds of days....whereas you can count Othene's half life with your fingers (under 10 days).
Cheers!
More details on this thread (and others)...https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5629493&postcount=1976
Imid has a nasty half life that is counted in hundreds of days....whereas you can count Othene's half life with your fingers (under 10 days).
Cheers!
