Spider mites AKA The Borg

[Dr. Purpur]

This is damn good stuff. You cannot go wrong applying this.
https://www.pestrong.com/467-mavrik-aquaflow-insecticide-miticide-qt.html

" for use on ornamental plantings "

There are a lots of methods to eradicate mites. Two spot are nothing to fear, and even russet hemp mites can be dealt with. The trick is stay on them. Spray them every other day or even every day, with organic miticides such as Plant Therapy. Those ornamental sprays can be very toxic to humans. Some cause seizures.

 

[sshz]

Actually, Avid and Maverick are quite similar. BUT, Avid has a residual effect up to 28 days which can be helpful in fighting off the critters. Both though, are not supposed to be used on marijuana plants.

 

[Dr. Purpur]

Actually, Avid and Maverick are quite similar. BUT, Avid has a residual effect up to 28 days which can be helpful in fighting off the critters. Both though, are not supposed to be used on marijuana plants.

Avid can give you severe seizures. Those are mectins

If you use that, I wouldnt bud out the plants you sprayed. I would clone off of them several months later and bud out those instead. I would only use mectins to save a special plant

 

[sshz]

Avid has been used for many, many years in the marijuana industry and I can say I've never heard or read of anyone having a seizure by smoking a bud sprayed with it. I'm not doubting what you are saying though.....I did find this:

How safe is Abamectin?
Abamectin has been evaluated extensively by the EPA for its effect on humans and the environment. Although it can be highly toxic, most formulated products are of low toxicity to humans and other mammals, making it safe to use. Abamectin is relatively non-toxic to birds; however, it is highly toxic for bees and fish. The insecticide degrades from or is absorbed into the leaves within a few hours, making it then safe for the bees after absorption. Abamectin is safe for plants and food as it is not absorbed by crops from the soil and it rapidly degrades due to the sun (photo degradation). It is also environmentally friendly to water systems as it does not leach into groundwater and rapidly degrades when exposed to water. When applying abamectin, always wear a mask, avoid contact with skin, wash hands thoroughly, and wait for leaves to dry before entering applied area. As always, use only as directed by the product label.

 

[Crooked8]

Avid has been used for many, many years in the marijuana industry and I can say I've never heard or read of anyone having a seizure by smoking a bud sprayed with it. I'm not doubting what you are saying though.....I did find this:

How safe is Abamectin?
Abamectin has been evaluated extensively by the EPA for its effect on humans and the environment. Although it can be highly toxic, most formulated products are of low toxicity to humans and other mammals, making it safe to use. Abamectin is relatively non-toxic to birds; however, it is highly toxic for bees and fish. The insecticide degrades from or is absorbed into the leaves within a few hours, making it then safe for the bees after absorption. Abamectin is safe for plants and food as it is not absorbed by crops from the soil and it rapidly degrades due to the sun (photo degradation). It is also environmentally friendly to water systems as it does not leach into groundwater and rapidly degrades when exposed to water. When applying abamectin, always wear a mask, avoid contact with skin, wash hands thoroughly, and wait for leaves to dry before entering applied area. As always, use only as directed by the product label.

The nukes certainly freak me out as well. This is why I agree with Asslover and think a cleaning/clearing of the room is a great step toward eradication if you fear the halflife of systemic pest/fungicides. If the plants are young enough in flower, with many weeks till harvest with a good flush, i am ok with it. I prefer it to smoking a shit ton of residual oils and god knows what else thats “organic” “spray up till harvest”.

 

[gladysvjubb]

Of course, I do not know shit.
That is why I have no pests in my flowering room.
No Pest Strips. Been using them for years.

 

[Dr. Purpur]

Of course, I do not know shit.
That is why I have no pests in my flowering room.
No Pest Strips. Been using them for years.

Be sure and read the safety information on the label

No one is trying to insult you here

 

[Charles6Zero]

Hello again, I am here to report that as of now winter of 2021 new year grow season I am mite free, so far!

Last Sep 2020, the mites had gotten a better of my perpetual garden. In short I used pyrethrin, azamax, and capt jack dead bug, I rotated each product, one day spray azamax, wait 3 days spray capt jack , wait 3 days spray pyrethrin. Than I gave them a break maybe 3 days and sprayed an em5/ kombucha plant wash I got on hand. I have not seen a mite since sep! Also bought plant tonics from mountain organics, pricey but they do the job for me! The real test comes this summer, I will report back. I basically was on my last straw and had gotten a hold of NPS and was ready to use those but held off and glad I did. I also use a paint sprayer which I picked up at walmart for like 20 bucks or less and it really does the job. Thank you to all who contributed to this thread!

 

[zachrockbadenof]

i find getting rid of these fukers is impossible, but i def have them under control using a variety of neem/safer soap, etc, etc..

a thought ... since these fukers don't fly, if u get rid of them on your clones and put on the trunk a glob of Vaseline , could they get by it?? they mite still be in the grow room/tent but if they cant get by the glob... yes...no????

 

[Lyfespan]

i find getting rid of these fukers is impossible, but i def have them under control using a variety of neem/safer soap, etc, etc..

a thought ... since these fukers don't fly, if u get rid of them on your clones and put on the trunk a glob of Vaseline , could they get by it?? they mite still be in the grow room/tent but if they cant get by the glob... yes...no????

yes, because they cast web parachutes to fly away with too

 

[hamstring]

Seeing is believing -I have read that simply dunking your clones or seedlings in a soapy water mix would kill spider mites. I mix a little Isopropyl with mine.

I have been fighting a mite problem for a couple of months at least. I have taken clones and just trying to get what bud I can with the mothers all in flower. I have been spraying my soap Iso mixture and have been able to keep the mites in control, not gone but in control enough to salvage some bud.


I bought one of those USB type microscopes. Best $40 I ever spent.

Well I decided to do a little experiment . I found a leaf with spider mites in the flower room. I dunked the whole leaf in the soap/iso/water mixture. At first glance I was sure they were all dead. I waited for the leaf to dry completely and sure enough some mites survived. I have heard right here in this thread that all you need to use is some soapy water to dip your clones in. I can tell you from first hand experience that it does kill some of them but not all. I am looking to invest in some miticide dip like Avid which can also be used as a soil drench. Expensive as hell yes but I have 24 clones from various strains I am trying to save. Soapy water isn't the answer.

Don't take any wooden nickels.

 

[chilliwilli]

Have mixed results with spruzid. Its pyretrum based mixed with oil. When i use it 2 times with about 3 d break i kill all of the fuckers but use only once and they could come back. Have used it in my veg room twice without cleaning the room and they came back after a month.
i have good results with crysoperla and amblyseius cucumeris. But most of the time its crysoperla because the predator mites(a.cccumeris) come with their prey as foodsource.

 

[hamstring]

Just to give some perspective with my mite problem. I was talking to a friend end of November 2020 about trading a clone of mine for one of his. I was getting ready to send one to him when I noticed mites. I cloned and pulled all the mother plants and killed all of them. ( Friggen running out of bud to smoke)

I cleaned and sprayed the whole grow room (small - 3x4x5)' with a bleach/water solution strong enough to make your eyes water.
I then put up one of those no pest strips for around 7 days.
I did a soil drench of the clones with some really nasty shit (Bioadanced Complete insect killer) active ingredients imdiacloprid & V-cyflothin.
I put my clones in the cleaned grow/flower room. I kept the no pest strip in with the clones for another 7 days. I saw no sign of mites for over a month.
I cloned again ( where I am today) and put the room back into flower.

I saw mites a couple weeks into flowering and thats where I am today. My new clones have no sign of mites ( just like the last ones). I am a novice to indoor growing and this is a big learning experience/curve.

I have no idea what else I could have done or what I missed but obviously missed something. If there were still mites on the original clones ( the plants that are in flower now) not sure why they didn't show any signs for over a month. Again I missed something, thats for sure. I read the life cycle of a mite can be up to a month long. I know from my post above they are very resilient little creatures.


The one bit of advice I can add to the community is a ounce of prevention is worth 10lbs of the cure. I dried my outdoor crop in my flower room and I think thats how I brought the mites in. I'm not sure but just my 2 cents.

 

[hamstring]

This is just purely false. Firstly, many products effectively kill spidermites. And second, if someone had an infestation, cleaned and vacuumed the room and just got new clones, they likely will see the same problem right away again due to the size and resilience of them. I cannot believe the suggestions on here. Hot shot strips? Nothing kills them? Jesus Christ.

If you really want them GONE, there are three foggers that will handle it. Lights off, oscillating fans on, no exhaust or scrubbers running. Let each one run in the room a minimum of 6-8 hours before exhausting. First, bethoveen, wait three days, pylon, wait three days, pyrethrum. I emptied my room and ran those and havent seen a spider mite in 3 years. Not one. The labels say they are safe up until harvest but thats up to ones own morals. I just took all my shit down other than veg and ran the bombs before refilling. Clean and clear since. If you really want to be certain run the foggers between runs as well. You should never see them again. Anyone suggesting contact sprays may see a product working and killing them but to effectively and fully eradicate them you need to get every surface of everything. Spraying even with an atomizer wont cut it. At least not in my experience. Everyones room is different and every climate has an impact but I’ve never seen the three bombs not work.

Thanks for this advice. My room is in my basement and not completely sealed so not ready to commit to this. The idea of three different products 3 days apart seems to sound right though.

 

[chilliwilli]

Iirc mites like a quiet low rh%. How was your rh% in veg and is in bloom? Maybe that held them at bay?
time maybe also a factor. It takes some time till one or 2 leftover sm repopulate a whole room.

 

[hamstring]

CW
Thanks for the reply the RH was very low. Cant remember exactly but in the low 40's I believe. My concern is why were there any mites at all after a complete clean and sanitizing of my grow room. Will my grow have to be taken down and started over. I hope not as mentioned I have 24 clones waiting for a new home. I'm not even sure they are clean even though they show no signs of mites.

My flower room is decimated. If I pull 4 ozs out of 4 plants I will be lucky. One of the plants is defoliated down to basically just buds. Mite sare the borg.

 

[chilliwilli]

Maybe the cleanup left some eggs or the bleach was not effective against the eggs?

those soil drench shit works systemic i assume so should have protected the plants for some time.

i would look for some mite killer that could be made in a solution and dip the clones and repeat after 3 days, best change active ingredience for the second dip.

For the flowerroom i would use crysoperla since the predator mites need relative high rh% to work and not be overgrown by the spidermites.

some years ago i tried showering my plants every 2-3 days since the spider mites came up in the last weeks of flower. That didn't work at all since the sm came back faster and faster. No wonder they didn't get killed only most removed and the eggs stayed and hatched.

One guy in a growshop recomended an ozon generator if can't get rid of pests but thats something i don't want to have running because of health concerns.

 

[hamstring]

CW
Thanks for all the advice. I have decided to build a small temporary veg room to keep my clones in while I try ensure there are no mites or eggs. My wife isn't happy about the extra money but it has to be done.
While at the local big box store checking on cost for materials I also looked in the gardening dept. I found a insecticide with permethrin and one with bifenthrin. They both seem to be basically the same thing, Pyrethroids. I think I will invest in one of them and captains jacks dead bug.

 

[hamstring]

Ok, Im back for a report on the mite problem. Here it is 3/26 and my last post was on 3/8. I moved my clones to a new place in my home so they are no where near my flower room. It was a lot of work but it had to be done.

I mixed a 5 gallon bucket with 0.5 oz/gallon. of 7.9% Bifenthrin. My clones are now rooted and have been transplanted twice, once into 9oz cups and then into 20oz cups. The fist dip was in the 9oz cup. I used gloves and dipped every rooted clone.

I put the whole plant in the mixture right up to the soil. I swirled it around and pulled it out soaking wet. I did this to each clone.
As stated on the Bifenthrin wait 4 - 7 days and apply again. I transplanted into the 20 oz cups and dipped a second time. I never did a soil drench because my understanding is mite generally live, breed, and feed on the underside of the leaves.

I felt very confident that I had done everything correctly. I had been keeping my eyes open for the tell tell sign ( tiny white spots on the leaves) and I saw no signs.

Today as I am looking I see curling leaves on Coco OG clone, my favorite strain, and the one attacked the hardest in the flower room. Decimated my yield. So I break out the USB microscope. It seems just to be the leaf tips and they are curling under and some are turning brown just at the tip. Not many leaves but I investigate with the USB scope. I can’t find any signs of pests. I am just about to start looking up nute deficiencies.

I tell myself, slow down and keep looking. I go through the clones and find a couple other Coco OGs with the same leaf curl. One by one I look at the leaves under the scope and them BOOM!!! under the scope i see MITES.

I am fucking beside myself. I don’t want to loose my clones. I have decided to go full on nuke. I mixed 2oz/gallon of Bioadvanced insect killer. Thats the strongest recommended solution. The active ingredient is imidacloprid 0.72% and B-cyfluthrim 0.36%. This is a systemic insecticide . I am going to dip a single clone along with a soil drench all at once. Just to see how it affects the plant. If it survives then they will all get the same treatment.

I understand what others have gone through . Its unbelievable what these mite handle and survive and thrive. WOW!

 

[hamstring]

oh my fucking god. I dipped a infected leaf with mite in the mixed 2oz/gallon of Bioadvanced insect killer. I waited for it to dry and there is a mite walking around flipping me off. Unfucking believable.

I only dipped it under and then pulled the leaf out. It killed the older darker mites but the lighter in color ( assuming color calls out age is still walking around as I type this. ) Do you have to have the leaf under the surface for a time period??

What next?? Any suggestions?