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    #16
    Originally posted by CrushnYuba View Post
    Captain Jack's? Have u used it on aphids? I went to go buy a bottle and i saw this review

    0% effective. I think the aphids actually liked it. There were more the following day after treat...
    7 months ago
    0% effective. I think the aphids actually liked it. There were more the following day after treating.
    I am a organic, natural alternative guy but, it has to work.
    I am buying live ladybugs from Armstrong Garden Center. It's a slower method but it works.
    Andyman · Reviewed on Home Depot

    Have not used it on aphids myself, but I have regained control over several other persistent pests. Concentrate allows you to mix it at different strengths. I found it also helps to prevent Powdery Mildew. Added bonus!!

    I cannot tell you why it didn't work for someone else, I can only assure that it did work for me. 2-3 tsp. of concentrate per gallon works great. Reviews that are negative are often put there by someone trying to steer you to a competing product. The reviewer plugs a different store and ladybugs.

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      #17
      Ladybugs are easy to gather now and for the next couple months, not sure how effective they are. A couple years ago I picked up about 4 gallons and released inside a greenhouse. Didn’t have anything for them to eat that I know of, just wanted them to make sure one way or another.
      Probably will go grab more because I have aphids on some kratom bushes and avocado tree starts in there now. They don’t bother the canna though. Find them on south facing hillsides within ten feet of water usually, in small handfuls on logs and branches. Harder to find after April. They are out now which is a few weeks earlier than past years.

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        #18
        Sorry typing not thinking.

        Mixing rate for me is 2-3 tsp per quart (not gallon) for a foliar spray. That's 10-15ml per liter. Apologies for posting incorrectly.

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          #19
          I looked it up. Captain Jack's is just spinosad. I use spinosad but i get conserve sc. It's WAY more concentrated and cost effective.
          Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to bother aphids much. Murders thrips, caterpillars, and a bunch of other stuff. Doesn't even touch aphids.

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            #20
            You are absolutely right. Aphids are about the only bug not listed anywhere on the package or the instructions. Funny how a spray can destroy one thing and be like mouthwash for something else. Thanks for correcting me.

            Used to use a rotenone and pyrethrin combo as a heavier punch if insecticidal soap didn't do the job. Sounds like you've tried most stuff though. Best of luck!!

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              #21
              Indoors I was able to wipe them out with Bonides All seasons dormancy oil. I had to dip clones to completely eradicate them. I did get some photo toxicity from being a little heavy handed. Outdoors the oils and soaps work well, as does just blasting them off with water but still they always returned.

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                #22
                I know there are more than one subspecies of Leaf Aphids, but I had the white ones, that liked to hang out on the stems more than the leaves, and they were the easiest pest I've ever had to get rid of. And they did not do much damage to the plant anyway. They did multiply at an insane rate though.

                What totally knocked them out was Pyrethrins, which is in monterey gardens take down. But it sounds like you've already tried that.

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                  #23
                  The Mammoth brand thyme oil has been tested. It wiped out the spider mites but it didn't control the aphids. Slowed them down quite a bit but they're resistant. It's strange to me that aphids are such a problem, 20 years ago they were the weakest of pests and spider mites were the primary menace. Times have changed..

                  I'll run through a few chemical and biocontrols I haven't tried. Nicotine is suppose to work excellent against aphids. Imidacloprid, a synthetic nicotine, works well against quite a few types but won't control Aphis Fabae. Two synthetic insect growth hormones work against aphids, Buprofezin and kinoprene. Deltamethrin, a synthetic pyrethroid, kills aphids, especially when sprayed in small drops instead of large drops. Small drops may enhance toxicity for most pesticides.

                  But it seems pesticides work poorly against aphids. Biocontrols, especially fungal, seem to work better. Parasitoid wasps, lacewings, two spotted ladybugs, a midge fly called Aphidoletes aphidimyza, there's a lot of aphid predators that work well.

                  I'd choose fungal myself, especially indoors. Botanigard Maxx seems to be the way to go. It contains the fungus beauveria bassiana which I mentioned in a previous post, lethal to insects, and pyrethrin for a double whammy. BackOff contains a soil fungus that infects the aphids through their spiracles, their breathing apparatus, and also through their skin. Infected insects stop feeding and die in 4-10 days. It then emerges from the dead hosts to infect other aphids.

                  These aphids are so nasty it seems like a mix of methods is the recommended way to go. Use a fungus for instance then a toxic poison to wipe them out at the end. It seems like the war against the enemies of cannabis is an endless arms race..

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                    #24
                    You are the man Rev! That's some good info.

                    I have always thought of aphids as pussies! Just a mild nuisance that came around now and then. Never struggled to get rid of them. These new aphids are just gangsters! I am just so surprised.

                    So deltamethrin is the synthetic pyrethrin you would choose? I wanted to try a synthetic pyrethrin so i got permethrin. Do you think the delta is better? U have any idea what the application rate should be?

                    So backoff is applied to the soil? Do u know a bit about it? Does it grow and keep living? Any downside?

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                      #25
                      Use less nitrogen.
                      Increase humidity over 70%.
                      Use a sulphur burner 3-5 consecutive days for 1-3 hours.

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                        #26
                        Found an interesting read.
                        Allium spp., rosmarin and other companion plants can repell aphids. From my own experience i know garlic takes a long time to sprout but releases the sulfur based compouds also as clove. 2 in a 7l pot let all of the soil smell like garlic and had no effect of the smell/taste of the buds.

                        https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5746795/

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                          #27
                          The proper treatment (cure) to Aphids is beneficial nematodes if you're running live soil.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by CrushnYuba View Post
                            These aphids just seem like they aren't going anywhere. You can spray for them and i don't see them for a little while but they are never gone. I don't want to keep spraying forever. Pyrethrin definitely ain't doing it. I have some permethrin i was about to try but i can't really figure out application rate. Is there anything toxic that works? Like forbid or avid. Like a systemic insecticide. I have to get them off my mom's.
                            I never really had a problem with aphids before. They were always easy to get rid of.
                            Try this multiple effect:

                            1. Mix a quart of tapwater with 10 drops of pyrethrum (or the recommended dose), add half a teaspoon vegetable oil, and enough drops of liquid dishwashing soap to dissolve the vegetable oil.

                            2. Spray with a fine mist first to get all the leaves, then with a stronger hose to flush them off the plants as well.

                            3. Make sure your sprayer is extremely clean. Take it apart, put it in bleach, and rinse thoroughly. Or better, take a new sprayer that has never been used. There is nothing worse than killing a plant with mouldy water (which I've done once) after months of growing.

                            Aphids are soft bodied insects, and they dry out because of the liquid soap. They're not difficult to get rid of.

                            4. Spray with hotsauce and liquid soap a week later as an anti-feedant.

                            5. If you want to go to the expense, get some predatory mites at put them out a few days after the hotsauce treatment.

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                              #29
                              Hey Mr Yuba,

                              Walk along the Yuba River until you see lady bugs in the air, follow them until you find thick masses of them on
                              the ground in the grass and foliage. Fill a big garbage bag with leaves and bugs.
                              When you get them back to your grow, Mix a Coke or other sugary soda 50/50 with water and spray them down,
                              As the sugar dries it will make their wings stick together and keep the ladybugs from flying away for a few days.

                              Apply them directly to your plants, anything you can do to contain them will help - a tent perhaps?

                              Watch for ants, these are often the real culprits, they move aphids onto your plants, setting up aphid farms
                              where they feed off the sugars the aphids exude.

                              A ring of fine dry ash around the bases of your plants will keep ants away, the ash sticks to them and
                              smothers them.

                              XERB

                              You might want to knock as many off as possible with a water/peroxide spray the previous evening

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                                #30
                                I still haven't used the kontos. Its kind of scary stuff. Wondering if i should use it as a drench or foliar. Having that shit in my soil seems nasty. But most applications i have seen is as a drench.
                                it seemed like 1 treatment of avid a couple months ago killed them. But warm weather it's around the corner. I did see some damage spots down low just recently that are hard to tell if they are old or new.I'm wondering if i should follow up with the kontos before mixing the aphid plants with my others. Or just one more round of avid. I know pretty well how long avid stays in a plant. I have used it a good bit in veg and haven't failed a test yet!
                                Kontos could be in it forever.
                                With how hard i been seeing people fight these things, i want to be sure.

                                I have been trying to read about kontos. It's been around for a long time and it seems odd that I'm just hearing about it. I haven't heard the most promising success stories.

                                Anyone point me towards some more kontos information?

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