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  • yerboyblue
    replied
    Originally posted by Storm Shadow View Post
    http://www.ohp.com/Labels_MSDS/PDF/kontos_label.pdf

    Mites - If populations are heavy at the time of application, control may not be achieved rapidly enough to prevent economic damage to the plant. Make applications preventatively, or when populations are first detected use the higher dosage (3.4 fl oz of product). KONTOS will not control heavy populations of existing mites. If a second miticide application is necessary to achieve control, use a product with an alternative mode of action.


    Reading directions helps a lot

    I threw out the heavily infested clones before I even thought about starting a regimen. And I said the ones that were root soaked in Kontos seemed to have some resistance to the mites.

    I'm not saying to not use it. I am saying more will have to be done. If people are noticing broad mite damage, then they have a high enough population already that one treatment of just Kontos will not eradicate them. It probably works better as a preventative than anything, although the label does say that as well.

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  • Storm Shadow
    replied
    Originally posted by yerboyblue View Post
    I also want to chime in on the Kontos application. Don't believe the one and done statements, if it worked like that for those people, then great! I have been using Ultor, same active ingredient as Kontos and Movento, just 18% compared to 22%. I did a root soak 3 or 4 weeks ago to kill some other bugs, grain mites, just to be safe (soaked in a solution at 5ml per gallon, no damage to the plants at all, very easy stuff to work with).

    About a week ago I found that some clones I took, still in the aero cloner but rooted, were heavily infested with broad mites. Other plants in the veg area seemed okay, but sure enough, they had broads, just not nearly as many. I think the root dunk and systematic nature of the Ultor (kontos) kept most of the mites at the untreated plants, but did not kill them all. I quickly did a foliar spray at 2ml per gallon, and followed up with another app at 3ml per gallon 4 days later. It is 2 days later (so 6 days from inital application) and I found a broad crawling. Plants are still healthy though. I may have messed up on application because I did not use a surfacant/spreader, although I drenched the hell out of the plants, top of leaves and bottom, and turned the lights off. The Ultor/Kontos is not a contact killer, it is meant to stop them from reproducing and kill some of the offspring. It needs to be used with other products either before or after application, like in a pesticide rotation. Hopefully the ones I am seeing are just sterile adults, enjoying their last days before their short life span ceases. I will be adding more of the Ultor next time I water as well, just for good measure.

    Also, this stuff is pleasant to work with, I notice no problems after spraying it diluted at 3ml per gallon with nothing more than latex gloves on, even got a little in the eyes with no irritation. I don't know about what might happen several years down the line, but hell, live in the moment right?

    And I know you may be wondering what I will follow up with as another spray as I am advocating pesticide rotation. I just followed up with Pylon at 1ml per gallon, no surfacant either. I don't believe it calls for it, the directions didn't mention it, or maybe I just missed it. The stuff seemed to dissolve incredibly well in water, almost like you don't have to stir it. This stuff also wasn't that bad to work with. I will let people know the results and if it damages the plants at all, especially so close to the application of Ultor. I also ordered some Avid, hopefully it will be here before my next spray in 3 or 4 days, if not I will be using Pylon again, assuming no damage, then followed by Avid. I ain't messing around with these things.
    http://www.ohp.com/Labels_MSDS/PDF/kontos_label.pdf

    Mites - If populations are heavy at the time of application, control may not be achieved rapidly enough to prevent economic damage to the plant. Make applications preventatively, or when populations are first detected use the higher dosage (3.4 fl oz of product). KONTOS will not control heavy populations of existing mites. If a second miticide application is necessary to achieve control, use a product with an alternative mode of action.


    Reading directions helps a lot

    Leave a comment:


  • yerboyblue
    replied
    Originally posted by Honey Boo Boo View Post
    Totally thought I had these fuckers under control, Forbid in veg, heat treatment for 60-90 minutes once a week in flower until week 5 has worked in all rooms and then WHAM, one room gets hit with it hard. Had to come back to this thread for more solutions and just ordered the Kontos. Please weed gods, let Kontos be the solution.
    Does anyone know if the Forbid will affect OGBiowar effectiveness and if so, whats the best guess for how long you would have to wait after spraying forbid for it to be effective?
    I am not familiar, or at least don't have experience with either product, but the OGBiowar should be compatible. Forbid claims to be compatible with other pesticides, including biological ones. Sometimes the inert ingredients in pesticides may contain some petroleum distallates which may impact the effectiveness though. I would do the Forbid app first then start the OGB 2 or 3 days later and keep in mind if you do anymore pesticides after that, it may hurt the OGB bacterias.

    Open question on the Forbid, what rates did people use and did you notice any burn/damage to the plant? I am interested in the stuff but have heard a lot of stories of people frying plants.

    Leave a comment:


  • yerboyblue
    replied
    I also want to chime in on the Kontos application. Don't believe the one and done statements, if it worked like that for those people, then great! I have been using Ultor, same active ingredient as Kontos and Movento, just 18% compared to 22%. I did a root soak 3 or 4 weeks ago to kill some other bugs, grain mites, just to be safe (soaked in a solution at 5ml per gallon, no damage to the plants at all, very easy stuff to work with).

    About a week ago I found that some clones I took, still in the aero cloner but rooted, were heavily infested with broad mites. Other plants in the veg area seemed okay, but sure enough, they had broads, just not nearly as many. I think the root dunk and systematic nature of the Ultor (kontos) kept most of the mites at the untreated plants, but did not kill them all. I quickly did a foliar spray at 2ml per gallon, and followed up with another app at 3ml per gallon 4 days later. It is 2 days later (so 6 days from inital application) and I found a broad crawling. Plants are still healthy though. I may have messed up on application because I did not use a surfacant/spreader, although I drenched the hell out of the plants, top of leaves and bottom, and turned the lights off. The Ultor/Kontos is not a contact killer, it is meant to stop them from reproducing and kill some of the offspring. It needs to be used with other products either before or after application, like in a pesticide rotation. Hopefully the ones I am seeing are just sterile adults, enjoying their last days before their short life span ceases. I will be adding more of the Ultor next time I water as well, just for good measure.

    Also, this stuff is pleasant to work with, I notice no problems after spraying it diluted at 3ml per gallon with nothing more than latex gloves on, even got a little in the eyes with no irritation. I don't know about what might happen several years down the line, but hell, live in the moment right?

    And I know you may be wondering what I will follow up with as another spray as I am advocating pesticide rotation. I just followed up with Pylon at 1ml per gallon, no surfacant either. I don't believe it calls for it, the directions didn't mention it, or maybe I just missed it. The stuff seemed to dissolve incredibly well in water, almost like you don't have to stir it. This stuff also wasn't that bad to work with. I will let people know the results and if it damages the plants at all, especially so close to the application of Ultor. I also ordered some Avid, hopefully it will be here before my next spray in 3 or 4 days, if not I will be using Pylon again, assuming no damage, then followed by Avid. I ain't messing around with these things.

    Leave a comment:


  • yerboyblue
    replied
    Originally posted by Honey Boo Boo View Post
    What is an IPM strategy? Thanks in advance
    Intergrated Pest Management, there is a lot of info about it simply googling it, but basically it is a fancy way of saying to use multiple strategies and pesticides in rotation so pests are exposed to multiple types of treatments. It is a better way to eradicate or keep pests at bay than say, one or two treatments of the same chemical and a periodic environment change.

    Leave a comment:


  • Honey Boo Boo
    replied
    Totally thought I had these fuckers under control, Forbid in veg, heat treatment for 60-90 minutes once a week in flower until week 5 has worked in all rooms and then WHAM, one room gets hit with it hard. Had to come back to this thread for more solutions and just ordered the Kontos. Please weed gods, let Kontos be the solution.
    Does anyone know if the Forbid will affect OGBiowar effectiveness and if so, whats the best guess for how long you would have to wait after spraying forbid for it to be effective?

    Leave a comment:


  • Honey Boo Boo
    replied
    What is an IPM strategy? Thanks in advance

    Leave a comment:


  • Some old dude
    replied
    It is my understanding that the fungus or bacteria in the mosquito dunks or similar is very natural and safe . It's use is actually to be put in "Standing water" lol, most other forms of pest management will warn against this as it will be toxic to the environment ...But personal research is always best google is your friend.

    Leave a comment:


  • Some old dude
    replied
    Regulated

    Originally posted by MrDank View Post
    If you're smoking something other than what you or your friends grow (and you know what's in it), then there is a 90% chance you are smoking harmful pesticides. The majority of commercial grows are treated like commercial grows

    This also applies if you eat in restaurants, or buy non-organic foods from the store
    Plus, even out of country fruit and vegetable crops are tested for banned pesticides. This is not yet the law for cannabis in as far as in country cultivation or otherwise. And some chems are actually more dangerous when burned and inhaled, compared to ingested through the digestive tract.

    Leave a comment:


  • MrDank
    replied
    If you're smoking something other than what you or your friends grow (and you know what's in it), then there is a 90% chance you are smoking harmful pesticides. The majority of commercial grows are treated like commercial grows

    This also applies if you eat in restaurants, or buy non-organic foods from the store

    Leave a comment:


  • hellawatson
    replied
    Mosquito Beeters from OSH!!!

    INTERESTING! It was a week ago that I read on this thread that there may be something in using mosquito dunks (Bacillus thuringiensis) to combat BM infestation, I thought what the heck and used one sack of Mosquito Beaters (OSH version of MDunks but granual sacks rather than donuts, same Bacillus thuringiensis tho, cost $12) put it in a nylon stocking in water, waited then stirred and sprayed a handful of my plants. A week ago I had no trouble finding BM all over my gals, now after 10min of searching I found 1.
    I've been waiting for my OGBIOWAR to arrive and am just finally getting to trying a heat treatment. So in other words I've done nothing except spray with Bacillus thuringiensis one time last week! Sure seems like it's working! Correct me if I'm wrong but Bacillus thuringiensis is pretty much harmless on an indoor op right? What about outdoor?

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    farmer

    Leave a comment:


  • sunset limited
    replied
    i know it was discussed before. what's the coupon code for ogb again though?

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by OrganicOzarks View Post
    Poisoning people is the only way to go. Anything else would mean you actually care.
    No its just means you're growing for profit without intending to smoke it yourself. Or it's just your too stupid to care about your own health.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by headimonster View Post
    well thats just nonsense, why would u ever smoke anything that was treated in flower with a poison? i would never recommend anyone using miticides that are toxic in flower, my theory was do it in veg, by the time the plant gets cut down and cured it should have moved thru the cells of the plant.....most miticides only active for 28days systemically....
    I found out later.. There plenty of dicks who dont care or know better that have money and do a decent size grow using what ever poisons they need to make it successful.

    Leave a comment:

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