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Killer A5 Haze Autopsy

RizlaMan

Active member
This killed a Killer A5 Haze at 33N. This plant was started indoors around the first of the year and went outside in early March where it didn't start budding until late April. By June it was battling bud rot on the larfy-buddage that formed before it went back into vegetative growth. It looked like it was doing well, got about 2 meters high and a meter or so thick as the plant was manifold trained early on and had a dozen limbs of roughly equal size growing from the horizontal main stalk. Then a couple weeks ago I checked in the noon sun at more than 100F/40C and it looked slightly drooped, which is normal when it's hot. Went back two days ago to check on it at the start of 13 hours of light and half the plant was dead and dry. The remaining stalks were half dead and when much pressure was applied they all failed and revealed this grayish/black moldy looking stuff on the inside of the stalks and the horizontal main stalk/stem. While I at least got some leaves for brownies and a clone that is budding indoors, I would appreciate insight as to what killed the Killer A5 Haze.

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Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
I would say primarily caused by poor drainage of damp soil, overwatering, or a poorly functioning root system. Add a lot of organic stuff to the soil to help with drainage. I add organic leaf mold and shredded leaves every year to my growing plots to help with water management. IF you mulch the top two inches with hay or grass clippings you can cut back on watering to minimize root rot. 😎
 

RizlaMan

Active member
I would say primarily caused by poor drainage of damp soil, overwatering, or a poorly functioning root system. Add a lot of organic stuff to the soil to help with drainage. I add organic leaf mold and shredded leaves every year to my growing plots to help with water management. IF you mulch the top two inches with hay or grass clippings you can cut back on watering to minimize root rot. 😎

Grown guerilla style so never watered. When the hole was prepared a 20-30 gallon hole was dug then coco coir, peat moss, and composted chicken manure were mixed with the native soil. The top of the soil was mulched with dead grasses from adjacent to the hole. The hole was slightly uphill and c. 30 meters from a spring.
 

FletchF.Fletch

Well-known member
420club
Usually when a plant dies back, root damage is to blame. Seeing the fungal stem makes me think the problem could be several things. It looks like water got into an Old pruning wound at some point and that, over time caused Stem Rot. Bugs or other critters could have used that pocket of space for one thing or another speeding the decay. Root Knot nematodes or grubworms could present in the soil too, making things worse.

My condolences, and Best of Luck with the cutting!
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
If you never water, that tells me you live where you get a lot of rain. Peat moss and composted chicken manure are extremely acidic and act as a sponge for water. Mold lives and reproduces in wet environments and not in dry environments. It can happen in a week or two and take a long time to break the stem. When you grew her for two seasons you broke her defenses down and she became too weak to fight those mold spores. 😎
 

RizlaMan

Active member
If you never water, that tells me you live where you get a lot of rain. Peat moss and composted chicken manure are extremely acidic and act as a sponge for water. Mold lives and reproduces in wet environments and not in dry environments. It can happen in a week or two and take a long time to break the stem. When you grew her for two seasons you broke her defenses down and she became too weak to fight those mold spores. 😎

Makes sense to me. While it hasn't rained, per se, a lot the last couple months the dew each morning is saturating. Thanks again.
 
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