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  • InsaneMembrane
    replied
    Alright I got the lab report.

    pH 7.5
    EC 0,25
    TDS 160ppm
    Ca 33ppm
    Mg 6ppm
    K 2ppm
    Na 7ppm
    nitrates 3ppm
    Zn 0,07ppm
    Cu ND
    B ND
    Fe ND
    Mn ND
    bicarbonates 120ppm

    According to these numbers the water is fucked, low Ca, low Mg, low K, high bicarbonates

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  • InsaneMembrane
    replied
    I have stated a couple of times Im using spring water straight from the source, no well, water comes straight from the source to my house.

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  • Growenhaft
    replied
    it will very likely be the silicates ... probably the esters of silicic acid.

    Have you also sent in your tap water for analysis?

    Don't let the values ​​drive you too crazy if they are not in the optimum ... remember you have 20l of soil ... this is a world of its own ... the area in which your plant can cope well is therefore very wide .. .that is not a ride on a knife edge where small deviations have big consequences ... with 20l soil your plant will find many possibilities to be able to replace deficiency situations.

    With large pots it is better to look at the vitality of the plants alone. You can see this by the way the plant aligns its leaves to the light ... the more leaf area it provides directly to the light, the better it is. A leaf placed steeply upwards gives just as little leaf surface to light as a hanging leaf.

    one of the most important indicators of vitality is the distance between the individual fingers ... the more even the better. irregularities indicate problems.

    if the women become lighter with their leaves in a vital position, it is better to wait for the reaction of the plant in large pots. in the outdoor area you can often see that after a very heavy rain ... or even a very strong heat ... at the moment the plants are getting lighter ... it is often due to a temporary poor availability, or a momentary additional demand ... triggered by environmental influences.

    that means the availability will usually change again by itself ... and you can trust that plants, which are of course restricted to their location, have many possibilities to tidy up and adapt their habitat.

    this is something different with small pots ... an adjustment of the values ​​will be the more successful way.

    But if you deal with 20l of soil and a momentary poor availability, act as if there is a real deficiency and fertilize these nutrients ... this will be the wrong way with a healthy, strong soil. it often disturbs the conditions in the further course of flowering ... often weeks later.

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  • InsaneMembrane
    replied
    Sent it to an agronomy lab yeah

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  • f-e
    replied
    Are you doing a fish thing, or irrigation suitability test?

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  • InsaneMembrane
    replied
    I have sent it to the lab for a complete analysis, will see exactly whats going on. I think my water might be high in bicarbonates. And bicarbonates “steal” available calcium and make calcium carbonate and a lack of available Ca can also mean a lack of P.

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  • f-e
    replied
    Interesting report. A 50% gain in 'crap' after it rains. Not explained by the drop in general hardness, or ~15% gain in carbonates. The pair of which are an overall lowering of hardness.

    If something is night and day different, it's hiding in the TDS gain.

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  • InsaneMembrane
    replied
    Here’s water after rains:
    pH 7.5
    EC: 0,42
    TDS: 210ppm
    general hardness: 107ppm
    carbonate hardness: 142ppm

    water before rains:
    pH: 7.5
    EC: 0,3
    TDS: 140ppm
    General hardness: 144ppm
    Carbonate hardness: 124ppm

    Leave a comment:


  • Growenhaft
    replied
    With plaster of paris you have added a lot of Ca ++ ions ... and a lot of sulfur to your medium.

    My prediction that the smell will intensify will not come true.

    It is a common mistake that we try to impose everything on the plant ... to protect it from all dangers ... in this way we curtail its freedom to react independently to situations ... to find solutions independently ... to do chemistry.

    chemistry that will have a decisive effect on potency and taste.

    please don't get me wrong. if wrong measures have been taken beforehand that require intervention ... because the environmental factors are slipping into the humane ... of course, the environment has to be right.

    But all these little things that take place in the area of ​​nutrient supply, you can confidently trust your soil life and the adaptability of your plant in organic cultivation with 20l pots and good soil.

    you will always get better results than a helicopter grower.

    think about why cannabis is so adaptable? It is your willingness to produce above-average chemicals and hormones in a very short time.

    there are many growers whose results get worse and worse, the more they want to please the plants ... and do not see that this is exactly the reason why the first run without knowledge was the best.

    They leave the plant no leeway to perform.

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  • InsaneMembrane
    replied
    Still waiting on the lab for precise Calcium and Magnesium values. Added 2tbsp of gypsum per pot 2 days ago and a guano tea, the leaf damage has completely stopped and the buds have started to fill in amd swell more.

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  • Growenhaft
    replied
    with this ph value that is inherently too little calcium. 1 ° dh = 7.14mg / l x 7 ° dh = around 50 mg / l calcium. your ec value should have a value of 0.45 for organic farming. with a cal / mag ratio of 3: 1

    if your ec value increases due to rain, the assumption is that there is cement. because rainwater has an ec value below 0.05. this is an increase in base calcium silicates.
    Calcium silicate have CaSIO³ our plants have to operate chemicals in order to convert this into Ca² + ... because in this form it can be absorbed.

    The advantage of calcium silicate is the release of silica ... which they also absorb.

    that is why the vitality of your plants has never suffered ... it is the only conceivable scenario where you can get all questions under one roof and match the overall impression of your plants.

    you should have your water analyzed in the laboratory. i would take water samples before and after a long heavy rain. plus your tap water. have all of the water examined. it doesn't cost that much. then you will know exactly what your situation is. And maybe they can create a good mix of well and tap water. this is the safest way. overall, your water is very poor in minerals ... regardless of whether it is converted into ec on the 500ppm or 700ppm scale. clarify about laboratories for the aquarium hobby.

    also have the water tested for silica ... it should be above average in this scenario.

    I would like to repeat once again that this additional expenditure on the plant's own chemistry will have an effect on the aromas.

    You should be able to perceive an increase in odor in your blood rooms for the next few days.
    Last edited by Growenhaft; 06-23-2021, 11:02.

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  • InsaneMembrane
    replied
    Here are the test results of water after a dry & hot weather period:

    pH: 7.5
    General hardness: 8 dGH (144ppm)
    Carbonate hardness: 7 dGH (124ppm)

    my TDS pen shows me 140ppm right now, when I measured after the rains it showed 180ppm. I will test water again after a period of rain to see what changes.

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  • Sunshineinabag
    replied
    Teaching without being insulting

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  • Growenhaft
    replied
    oh buddy,
    why do you think that the microbes only in organic soil and in aquaponics have an effect on the taste?

    your knowledge is informative and correct in terms of content ... but explains reactions as they occur in every type of medium.

    microbes is just an umbrella term ... including viruses, bacteria and fungi .... you have this in every form of medium in different proportions. For example, they have a better microbiological ratio in coco than in soil. this is confirmed by a better growth rate and thus better yield ... it is also scientifically proven. especially when it comes to the symbiosis with trichoderma, the coco is best. but let's not go into so much detail at this point ... it distracts from the actual topic ... which you unfortunately didn't give an opinion on.

    that's why i ask you directly now ... because you get the impression that you understand something about chemistry ...

    is the final theory of the thread starter correct or incorrect? can something like that happen in a 20 liter pot of bio-earth? is water with a high ph value automatically alkaline? is water that would be alkaline and the ph value is lowered to 6.5 still alkaline? despite the effects on the crystal lattice of the water? could I, poured it, drive the ph value in 20l earth into the alkaline ... if, in addition, a strong calcium distorter is in its prime in this earth? these are the questions that are relevant.

    they answer depending on the user-friendly handling of the medium. is the medium kept in the correct moisture condition? do the remaining environmental conditions fit? does the grower have sufficient basic knowledge? The way the thread maker presents himself, I believe that everything is there ... the plants show a pronounced development, are fully on schedule, the nodes are sensible and the foliage is bristling with vitality. so assume in your answers that the grower is a good one ... no serious mistakes affect the reaction of the medium.

    However, if you only wanted to lecture me in order to distinguish yourself, I would like to suggest that you create a thread ... we can then see what is behind it.

    Last edited by Growenhaft; 06-22-2021, 19:20.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by Growenhaft View Post
    i'm not sure i would do you any real favor.

    it could be the reason why many people favor bioweed in terms of taste ... it is not the medium itself, because the plants still only absorb the ione. this change in taste can only be created by the plant itself ... by using chemistry to adapt.

    My previous experiences in aquaponics show that this is the case ... in which fish and bacteria produce the nutrients, the plant must also produce many additives in the medium water.
    this happens directly on the root hairs at the moment of water absorption. for this reason, the speed of water flow is an extremely important part of the right environment.
    the difference in taste between dwc and aquaponics is the same as between rock wool and organic soil ... no difference to organic farming. if you had asked me 2 years ago ... my answer would be to add lime to the water ... today I would like to think that calcium is present in abundance in your soil ... but the plant feeds on the calcium of your water ... it's more accessible.
    Organic soils and aquaponics swap microbes/metabolites at high rates through the root, the difference in quality comes down to the microbial metabolites taken up and the ability of the plant to produce a higher quality auxin,since those microbes contain levels of trace minerals that could not be taken up otherwise.

    It's not terpenes making organic bud better. Organic bud is high in much more organic smells: Ketones for breath, thiols for BO, acids for feet. The terpenes that are present are held in a sugar-lipid matrix that does not exist with chemoponics. The diversity of metabolites in organic cannabis will blend and convert into intense new flavor/aroma substances over time, in the same way that a dead body becomes more pungent, so does they break down of fats and oils in organic cannabis, while hydroponic gets worse with time, and only smelled like terpenes in the first place, with zero sugars and little acids for flavor: Curing is futile with hydroponics.

    Microbes not only make the flavor "better", they boost the medicinal value, and increase recreational effects 3 fold by boosting sugars and acids that introduce the plant's phytocannabinoids to your endocannabinoids at the receptors (you can't get that warm fuzzy umbrella feeling with chemoponics), and also be creating fatty acids that are usedtto synthesize more potent, less abundant (profitable) cannabinoids with zero negative health effects, such as thcv, thc-p, & 11- hydroxy thc.

    The biggest hangup the cannabis industry has is focusing on the most abundant isoprene/hexanoic derivatives rather than the most potent ones... Capitalism at work. High volume low potency (delta9 thc) dabs and e-joints are going to have a toll on users some day. Same with the mono terpenes, the percentages are so high for so little reward. I see the tobacco vape industry pulling fruit scraps real quick.. Oh yeah, they already did that and disguised it as a "orange man bad" media piece.
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